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Corbet
06-01-2009, 09:07 AM
Pulled a new code this morning. P0340. Camshaft Position Sensor A -Bank 1 Circuit Malfunction.

Anyone else have any experience here. Will replacing the sensor cure this or is there a different common cause?

Truck basically hesitates very bad when cold right now, almost to the point of stall.

powderpig
06-01-2009, 09:10 AM
You will need to look at the distributor, the computer uses the Distributor to look at cam timing. There is not a direct camshaft sensor like in the later models of toyota products(stuff with out distributors).

Corbet
06-01-2009, 09:58 AM
what should I look for? Everything appears OK upon 1st inspection

powderpig
06-01-2009, 11:00 AM
I would start first with clearing the code and see if it is not a fluke. Check the connection for the distributor to make sure all is good(no corrision). Check wiring harness back by EGR to see if melted.
After that Pull out the FSM go to ignition system and follow the procedure for checking out the distributor. If not FSM I can later(to night when I have more time) give you discription of what to look for.

Corbet
06-01-2009, 12:01 PM
Thanks for the direction to go. I have a FSM so I'll try to run through it tonight if time provides. Definitely not a fluke, cleared it twice already.

bigbluefj
06-01-2009, 07:52 PM
You will need to look at the distributor, the computer uses the Distributor to look at cam timing. There is not a direct camshaft sensor like in the later models of toyota products(stuff with out distributors).


I had the same error code on my vortec motor ..

Corbet
06-03-2009, 12:04 PM
Results from Distributor Inspection page IG-8 of the FSM.

I was not able to get the distributor to stop in the right place after many key turns to measure the air gaps of G1 & G2. Any tricks to this or do I have to remove the distributor? NE pickup gap in spec .306 mm (.2-.4 mm)

Signal generator resistance for G1,G2,NE were all in cold spec measuring 225. (cold 185-275)

All connectors in area are clean when opened. I can not find any melted harness in the EGR area. Is there a specific spot that s common?

I'm off today so any help ASAP is much appreciated. :thumb:

Picture of inside of distributor.

Corbet
06-03-2009, 12:55 PM
I reassembled her. Started OK but ran rough. Backed out of the garage and stalled out in driveway. Will not restart now.:confused::banghead::rant:

powderpig
06-03-2009, 06:00 PM
Well the Po340 code points to the Distributor first for the signal generated by it. either open or closed circuit. Next is Camshaft position sensor (the two light green pick up on either side), or the computer.
I see the one pick up on the right hand side has a brush mark, like the shaft may be bent or the bearing worn. Is this the case? (eg 256 in 96 manual).
Anyhow, If the distributor is Ok, then you may need to check the computer or the wiring.
Since you can not get the gap reading to work out right with the distributor in the truck, you may need to pull it out. I would put it up to TDC #1 so it will line up easy when you go back together.
Since it does not start now, what codes are you pulling?
I going to take a shower, I will look again before I head to the meeting.

powderpig
06-03-2009, 06:02 PM
I have not see a TPS out of wack create a p0340, But I would also check the Throttle Position Sensor to make sure all is good with it, especally the Idle circuit.

Corbet
06-03-2009, 06:09 PM
No codes right now. The P0340 will go on and off. Kind of clear itself sometimes? I need to get it back in the garage some how before I disassemble again. Its currently sitting in the middle of our driveway :rant: I might have to winch it into the garage :D. Times like this I really wish it were a manual trans so I could dive it on the starter.

powderpig
06-03-2009, 06:15 PM
Off to the club meeting

Corbet
06-03-2009, 06:21 PM
I also noticed that I can rotate the rotor a few degrees on the distributor shaft. However I don't recall if that is normal from when I replaced it 06/2007.

corsair23
06-03-2009, 06:28 PM
I also noticed that I can rotate the rotor a few degrees on the distributor shaft. However I don't recall if that is normal from when I replaced it 06/2007.

Corbet, I'm thinking my rotor moved a bit too when I replaced it last year but now you have me wondering...What about the "brushing" Robbies mentions on the pickup on the right side? Doesn't appear to be normal but whudda I know :) - Off to the meeting as well but good luck with the problem. I prefer the simple problems like a tire that is low :hill:

Corbet
06-28-2009, 02:05 PM
OK, its been a few weeks since I have had time to work on the Cruiser but tore into her today. The distributor checks out per FSM instructions. G1 & G2 pickups are at the high end of gap specs (.013 inches) Robbie, I was able to push the G1 and G2 pickups back into the distributor a little as you commented on the fact one looked like it was rubbing on the shaft.

I need to get this fixed soon as I'm really growing tired of driving Marianne's 1992 Sunbird convertible. AKA the "Sun Chicken"

another pic of the distributor opened up.

Corbet
06-28-2009, 02:17 PM
On a side note I also opened up the wiring harness from the alternator up to the battery to work on my problem encountered in Moab, see thread:

http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showthread.php?t=9822

I plan to replaced the charge circuit wire from the ALT to AW1 with marine grade 6AWG and probably 8AWG on the second wire which I believe goes into the fuse box under the hood as well as supplies power directly to the ECU and other things? Has a weird splice though that I need to figure out a good way to replace.

Need to order some supplies before I can reassemble.

Pic of Moab failure point and the weird wire splice of 2nd wire off the ALT terminal.

Inukshuk
06-28-2009, 03:16 PM
I have not see a TPS out of wack create a p0340, But I would also check the Throttle Position Sensor to make sure all is good with it, especally the Idle circuit.

Did you check the TPS? Every time my 93 cruiser runs rough or drops down to idle after hitting 1500 RPMs its moisture in the TPS. A long time ago this would occasionally happen when driving in very wet or very snowy conditions. Since then I have put dielectric grease in all connectors and now it only - but always - happens when I pressure wash the engine bay. Fix for me is to disconnect and blow with compressed air. Its a quick thing to check.

Corbet
06-28-2009, 07:05 PM
Did you check the TPS? Every time my 93 cruiser runs rough or drops down to idle after hitting 1500 RPMs its moisture in the TPS. A long time ago this would occasionally happen when driving in very wet or very snowy conditions. Since then I have put dielectric grease in all connectors and now it only - but always - happens when I pressure wash the engine bay. Fix for me is to disconnect and blow with compressed air. Its a quick thing to check.

I pulled the connector, everything was bone dry. The FSM's instructions on testing was a little confusing. Need some additional help. It says to add vacuum but not exactly sure to where. FSM makes it look like access around that area is good but in reality not so.