PDA

View Full Version : Bloody L.: Carrier side bearings


Red_Chili
06-04-2009, 01:21 PM
I have a very nice Craftsman gear puller. It has a vise lock on the three jaws to prevent them popping out. Oh, they definitely won't.

But the carrier side bearings on my ARB will certainly grenade under pressure. (Koyos) There is no way to slip something behind them and pull the inner race, so you grab the cage. Unfortunately, both bearings grenaded. Yeah, on the second one I used a torch. That only seemed to induce thermal shock, and I watched as the roller popped the top ridge off the inside race.

:eek: :mad:

I've not run into this before.

Well... now that the inner race is very easy to get to...:rolleyes: what are my options? Take a die grinder and cutting wheel and CAREFULLY grind in something for the puller jaws to grab? Use said die grinder and cut them as much as I dare, and chisel them till they fracture off?

That seems pretty Neanderthal to do to a $700 carrier... :(

subzali
06-04-2009, 01:42 PM
pictures :D

AxleIke
06-04-2009, 01:43 PM
Have you tried a bearing clam-shell and a press? Never heard of using a gear puller on bearings before.

I have always used the clamshell. It usually takes 5 or so tons of pressure to get them off. Robbie can give you a better idea on the tonnage, but usually gear installs require at least a 12 ton capable press.

Red_Chili
06-04-2009, 02:40 PM
Your pix are lovely... but not applicable to Toy bearings. Take off that outer race and expose the cage, and leave NOTHING for the clamshell to engage besides the roller cage, and you have it.

I started with a bearing splitter and my 12 ton press. That REALLY causes the cage to pop those rollers out. Believe me... you ain't gettin' NOTHING under the inner race such as shown in the pix.

I called it a gear puller, but it is a generic puller resembling other brands of side bearing pullers.

[edit] I do see where the clamshell in the article does not actually have to get under the inner race. Oh shiznit. Too late for me now. I have only inner races at this point.

DaveInDenver
06-04-2009, 02:47 PM
http://www.pirate4x4.com/articles/tech/billavista/PR-ARB/articles/Randys_Carrier_Bearing_Puller_Review

Red_Chili
06-04-2009, 05:44 PM
Yeah, sorry Dave. My edit was meant to say, I am an idiot.

Actually, I was completely misled by a gear setup website that shall remain nameless. And suggested using what I used. I now see how clamshell pullers work, and realize that is what I needed (I hate this earn as you learn method of learning... or should I say, pay as you learn). It would have been perfect. I thought I was soooo prepared.

Don't trust everything you see on the web.

So now that I am screwed :lmao:... any ideas?

Beater
06-04-2009, 06:16 PM
so... did your "uber reliable" arb break or sumtin????

this is a reference to a conversation that was about 6 or so years ago in moab.... on the trail... mending an arb....









right after you snickered at my detroit.

Red_Chili
06-04-2009, 06:29 PM
Wow, I should put in a Detroit to stop all possibility of pinion breakage?
Who'd a thunk it? Sign me up!

LOL

I never snickered at your Detroit, kind sir. And what I mended was due to installer error leaving enough blue line slack to touch the exhaust.



Never mind that I was the installer. Just never mind that. That was another learning experience.

powderpig
06-04-2009, 09:31 PM
Either a cut off wheel or a die grinder with a small cut off wheel.
Cut on diagonal and do not cut all the way. Then with a chisel, you can split the race. This is sometimes the only way I can get some of these races off the carrier.
Cutting on the diagonal is the key. If yo cut straight across the race you can nick the carrier. I usually can gauge when I am almost through for the chisel to work. If you leave too much of the thickest part of the race, the chisel will not work. I am sure some others have some good tricks to tell.

subzali
06-04-2009, 09:37 PM
I agree with Robbie. I did it on my power steering pump pulley. Be careful and patient and it'll work good. I don't know if you'll have to split the race completely; I split it just enough to loosen it up so it would slide off. 'specially with heat I'm sure you could get something to work. That's a thought though - could you heat it and make it expand and slide it off? Or is the fit too tight for that?

powderpig
06-04-2009, 11:18 PM
I do not know If I would heat the race enough to then smack the race with a hammer. It could change the temper of the carrier that is supporting the race. But hey, what do I know.

Uncle Ben
06-04-2009, 11:56 PM
The cut and split is a method I have used many times to get stubborn inner races off. On Ford 9's thats the ONLY way to get the outer axle bearing off on about 98% of them.

Red_Chili
06-05-2009, 12:35 PM
I do not know If I would heat the race enough to then smack the race with a hammer. It could change the temper of the carrier that is supporting the race. But hey, what do I know.
Robbie says "what do I know". Hehe.

Robbie make a funny. :lmao:



OK, some quality die grinder time this weekend. THANKS for the diagonal tip. If you are bored and want to laugh at someone, c'mon by.

Gonna hafta look into one of those Yukon clamshell pullers. And I might send a 'note' to the owner of the website that suggested a gear puller was fine. Grrr.:rant:

subzali
06-05-2009, 01:15 PM
I'm still trying to figure out what bloody L means...

DaveInDenver
06-05-2009, 01:55 PM
I'm still trying to figure out what bloody L means...
Say 'Bloody Hell' in a thick Brit accent, comes out something like 'Blue-dee Ell'. Sorta the Brit equivalent of 'What the hell?' or 'Oh sh!t!'

Red_Chili
06-06-2009, 10:19 AM
Oi!

Red_Chili
06-06-2009, 12:15 PM
Well, thanks all for the suggestion of die grinding a groove diagonally across the race. I did so - as deep as I dared but not all the way through - then ground a chisel such that it acted as a wedge more than a cutter. I had my neighbor hold the ARB such that the spent race rested on the vise jaws, and SMACKED the groove with the chisel at the shallow end. This caused a crack which was easy to propagate across the race, and next thing I know, the race will gently tap off and pry off with a screwdriver. No damage to the ARB.

:bowdown:

I talked to Squishy and he mentioned they do that all the time at the shop. I can see where it would be no big deal once you get the hang of it. In fact, nice as the Yukon clamshell puller would be for ~$140, as infrequently as I plan on doing this I have to ask if I really need one.

Anyway... THANKS!

:thumb: :cheers:

DaveInDenver
06-06-2009, 04:35 PM
I can see where it would be no big deal once you get the hang of it. In fact, nice as the Yukon clamshell puller would be for ~$140, as infrequently as I plan on doing this I have to ask if I really need one.
Maybe as a club-owned tool?

Red_Chili
06-08-2009, 09:49 AM
That would be cool. Where did we land on club-owned tools? Would that be considered undermining members who make their living doing this?

Uncle Ben
06-08-2009, 09:59 AM
That would be cool. Where did we land on club-owned tools? Would that be considered undermining members who make their living doing this?

Harbor freight has a huge size selection and for moderate use they will last a long time!