View Full Version : REAl TIME Q - Alternator Re-install

06-04-2009, 10:36 PM
I have the Alt out. Trouble getting new one in the bracket.

1) Can I pull the dist and easily reinstall?
2) Is the bushing in alt bracket moveable?

06-04-2009, 10:43 PM
From looking at MUD it seems that upper mount bushing is my issue. Heat did not move it. But I suppose maybe I could grind a little off the inside.

If I pull the alternator I would have easy access to that bushing and the entire upper mount bracket. Then I could really apply heat.

06-04-2009, 11:01 PM
I had a nice brainstorming session with Hants and before I look to pull the dist I'm going to chamfer the bushing a bit on the new alt.

06-04-2009, 11:12 PM
I think my Dremel was lonely..... PROBLEM SOLVED.

06-05-2009, 08:10 AM
Daniel, that bushing is moveable. You use an ingenious combination of sockets, nuts and bolts to make a pusher/puller and move it a bit to allow the alternator to go back in. Then when you tighten the alternator bolts it sucks it back in. Next time you do an alternator you won't be able to get the new one back in, chances are.

Heating a bushing makes it tighter inside a hole.

06-05-2009, 08:33 AM
Sorry, didn't get your PM until this AM but looks like you got it in:thumb:

06-05-2009, 09:35 AM
Yup. Finished buttoning it all up at about 12:30 AM. Started it up and all is well.

So, replacing an alternator in an 1993 80 with a Toyota remanufactured part is easy. I disconnected the battery. I unbolted the PS reservoir and moved it aside. I disconnected the ground straps, coil wire and one other plug nearby. I disconnected the two connections to the alternator. I disconnected the small hose at the top of the radiator so that it was out of my way as I worked on the belts side of things. After removing the belts I also removed the alternator belt idler pulley and alternator adjustment bracket. Then it was just a matter of taking off the top pivot bolt, sliding the alternator down and then taking it out in the space made from pushing aside the PS reservoir and having removed the alternator adjustment bracket.

The bushing in the alternator mounting bracket complicated reinstallation. I was thinking about removing the distributor to give access to the bushing and/or the bolts to remove the alternator bracket so that I could work on the bushing on the workbench. (if I was going to apply heat it would have been to the bracket, not the bushing). I tried a brass drift but the length of the drift made it hard to hit with a hammer. I briefly considered cutting the drift in half. But first I decided to chamfer the washer on the alternator (there is a washer set in the front side of the alternator pivot bolt hole that, when the alternator is installed, rests against the bushing in the bracket). Just a small bit of chamfering allowed the alternator to start to fit into the bracket so I did about a minute of sanding with a Dremel sanding drum, then smoothed the washer with a wide flat file, and the alternator then fit snugly in. (I covered the ventilation openings in the alternator with masking tape to keep out metal dust and shavings.)

Overall I spent about 4 hours, but that included dinner, interruptions, head scratching and time to unbolt the battery tray (which I ultimately did not remove because I have wires going through holes in it). I could probably knock this job out in an hour if I have to do it again. Check back with me after another 205,000 miles!

You do not have to remove the battery tray or any big coolant lines.

Parts replaced: alternator, alternator belts, A/C belts

Probably should replace: idler pulleys for alternator belts and A/C belts

While I was there: Air filter, oil filler cap gasket, valve cover vent hose, both hood gas lifts (no more hood falling on my head).

Thanks for the real-time replies from Hants and Jeff and close to real time PM from Robbie. Matt, I will remember the "ingenious combination of sockets, nuts and bolts to make a pusher/puller" idea next time I face a situation like this.