PDA

View Full Version : Tundra Mods


subzali
06-16-2009, 07:36 PM
So I've been thinking...

:D

I've got this great new truck. Though it won't see heavy wheeling (at least until the SAS and the 6" lift ;)), I would like it to be a capable machine. I'm planning an ARB front bumper for at least three reasons: 1) protection from deer; 2) I can put a winch for emergency snow recovery etc. on it - FEAT style you know; and 3) because it's cool :D

and since the guys over at tundrasolutions.com seem to be more concerned about whether they can fit an 18", 20" or 26" :eek: wheel under the thing, I'm wondering if there are any "real" mods I can do to make it mo' betta.

I'm hoping to get an Eaton LSD sometime in the future, plus the Flippac and a drawer system in the bed, but today I was wondering about the interior.

I only have one switch blank (1st picture), but there's a large space above the tranny hump (2nd pic) that begs some sort of fabricated center console to hold stuff. And then there's the garage door opener holder (3rd pic), which I've seen guys use for a removable Ham radio faceplate.

I don't know what I'm thinking, but it looks like I have options :cool:

corsair23
06-16-2009, 11:32 PM
Dude...what were you saying?

I got lost once I saw all that bling wood :D

subzali
06-16-2009, 11:50 PM
oh yeah and I was going to replace the fake wood trim with custom carved maple or something - would give me an excuse to start building up a woodshop :D

Boulder Cruiser
06-17-2009, 12:10 AM
Not sure if you have cubby holes in the bed but you could add lights to the bed. This is some of the stuff i did to my tacoma when i had it.
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c74/Bouldercruiser/Tacoma.jpg

You could put a scan gauge up in the sunglass holder...
Mount a Rtt over the bed like this...
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c74/Bouldercruiser/S6301726.jpg

Bikeman
06-17-2009, 09:31 AM
My bro-in-law has an '03 Tundra, and the best mods he did for wheeling so far, which I have witnessed and rode in, have been an ARB bumper, Aussie Winch, Sway-Away coilovers adjusted to 2", and Bilstein 5100 shocks out back. He also moved all breathers to the highest point in the engine bay. Before he did the front coilovers, his ARB bumper/winch combo almost lowered the suspension 1.5", so plan on heavier rate coilovers up front.

I would forget any type of limited slips. All they do is still let just one wheel spin! I have had several, and seen several do nothing positive for traction, plus they act bad in the snow and ice. To me, there is no other option than a selectable locker.

nakman
06-17-2009, 09:51 AM
You know I'm inclined to agree with Mike on the locker... you'll be able to get that truck pretty far with some good line selection and power braking. If you really do add a winch there's your savior if you get too far. And you want to be all the way open on snowy roads, IMO, especially with a light back end.

Have you considered a more tube-style bumper a la Allpro that gives you almost the same protection at half the weight? I don't know if anyone produces one for a Tundra but you certainly know people who can bend & weld... something like this http://www.allprooffroad.com/9504tacomatrailarmor/9504frontbumpers

Squishy!
06-17-2009, 10:53 AM
Have you considered a more tube-style bumper a la Allpro that gives you almost the same protection at half the weight?

I agree. Those ARB bumpers add a TON of weight. I can't even pick a Tundra one up by myself. Try to research something.

subzali
06-17-2009, 10:54 AM
You know I'm inclined to agree with Mike on the locker... you'll be able to get that truck pretty far with some good line selection and power braking. If you really do add a winch there's your savior if you get too far. And you want to be all the way open on snowy roads, IMO, especially with a light back end.

Some of the Tundras came with a Limited Slip from the factory, so that's why I thought it would be a good idea. I'm not sure what all is available for the Tundra, but I do know Limited Slip is available. If a Toyota-style electric rear locker is available, I might consider it and I could use the switch blank on my dash. Of course I'd have to budget the install and have someone professionally do it...

Have you considered a more tube-style bumper a la Allpro that gives you almost the same protection at half the weight? I don't know if anyone produces one for a Tundra but you certainly know people who can bend & weld... something like this http://www.allprooffroad.com/9504tacomatrailarmor/9504frontbumpers

You know personally I've never really cared for that style of bumper. I know it works fine but to me that's more a rock-buggy look than a DD/weekend wheeler look. Just not my style. It's good to know about the extra weight, I guess I'm used to the 80 where you can put that much weight on the front and not really notice a difference. I'll have to take that into consideration, see if I'll have to add some heavier duty front suspension components...

Have to remember though, the 1st gen Tundra ARB is only available in a Sahara Bar - it's not like the Deluxe Bar that's available for the current gen Tundras, or even the one available for the 80 series.

Squishy!
06-17-2009, 10:55 AM
I got lost once I saw all that bling wood :D

The Ammo box on the floor makes him gangsta...:cool::D

treerootCO
06-17-2009, 11:00 AM
The Ammo box on the floor makes him gangsta...:cool::D

Murdered out!!

rover67
06-17-2009, 11:12 AM
My limited slip only lasted for about 30k miles (maybe even less) before it ran like an open diff.

wesintl
06-17-2009, 11:55 AM
you need to replace the wood overlay with a camo overlay :D

Squishy!
06-17-2009, 11:56 AM
Murdered out!!

Word Holmes.:thumb:

subzali
06-17-2009, 12:32 PM
you need to replace the wood overlay with a camo overlay :D

My buddy wanted me to do carbon fiber :grinpimp:

Beater
06-17-2009, 12:40 PM
I wouldn't do the rtt on the bed. Do the softtopper instead. you can sleep in in, and hide your stuff. You loose bed storage/flexibility with the RTT on there.
I disagree on the lsd, somewhat. I would put a loc-rite or detroit in the rear and a lsd up front anyday on MOST vehicles. I had a detroit (factory) on my 2007 chebby full-size. NO issues in snow/ice other than the wimpy arse street tires it came with. That being said, if you're not going to have some weight in the rear of that truck in the winter time, you're not going to go anywhere in 2wd with it.

My T100 takes about 250lbs in the rear during the snowy months to even behave in a civil manner, without a locker.

at most I would add a leaf and add coils. Personally, I would leave it stock if I were to do anything. that's what you have a 40 for. treat it as a car that can tow the 40, haul mulch for that house your buying and take the wife to dinner while she's wearing a nice outfit.

Corbet
06-17-2009, 07:49 PM
Personally, I would leave it stock if I were to do anything. that's what you have a 40 for. treat it as a car that can tow the 40, haul mulch for that house your buying and take the wife to dinner while she's wearing a nice outfit.

x2

nice set of AT's and catch it up on all its PM. Build the 40 and wheel it. DD the Tundra.

Rezarf
06-17-2009, 10:42 PM
x2

nice set of AT's and catch it up on all its PM. Build the 40 and wheel it. DD the Tundra.

x2

No need for two wheelin' rigs. I would slap a set of AT's on, make it as comfy as possible, and wheel the 40...

:thumb: or you could always...

subzali
06-18-2009, 11:21 AM
x2

nice set of AT's and catch it up on all its PM. Build the 40 and wheel it. DD the Tundra.

You guys are no fun...:bawl:

;)

Beater
06-18-2009, 11:28 AM
hey - you can choose to listen to those that have been there done that, or you can do what you want... lol your choice.

You're an engineer, do a simple spreadsheet on the ROI for the Tundra vs the 40

subzali
10-30-2010, 09:04 PM
After thinking about it and driving it for a little over a year, here's what I've done so far:

-Took off the aftermarket wheels and got a set of OEM alloy wheels and got a set of BFG A/Ts in the proper tire size. 285/75/16 was too big for me.

-Did all the pm except flushing the brake system and power steering system. New timing belt, water pump, coolant, flushed transmission, differentials and t-case. Oil changes at 5,000 miles.

Here's what I'm thinking about doing (and now that it's paid off I'll have a little more freed-up money to do some of this):

-The rotors are warped - apparently this is a common problem due to undersized calipers on the early Tundras. Both of my rotors have been turned and replaced before I bought the truck, and they're warped again. The solution is to swap out the calipers for a pair of 2004-2006 Tundra calipers. There is a TSB on this procedure, and the parts are something like $1700 from the dealer :eek: Still trying to figure out how to approach this one...

-I hate this exhaust, it's too loud and the mufflers are starting to rust out on me (one rusted out this summer, so I took it off and welded the hole closed for the time being to buy me some more time). Luckily the guy who put the exhaust on didn't totally make it hard to fix. There is a y-pipe where the two sides come together; it's downstream of the cats and O2 sensors and it has a resonater as part of the assembly. Unfortunately all the "cat-back" systems don't include the y-pipe; technically it's a "y-pipe back system," which makes it hard to find a factory y-pipe, unless I were to go to a junkyard. Well he did bugger up the y-pipe during the exhaust install, so I'm thinking about getting a Walker y-pipe through Napa, and then getting a Dynomax "cat-back" kit to finish it off following the original routing. It should give me back some torque, should have a smoother sound, be quieter, and it will dump behind the rear tire which I like better than the dual outs under the rear bumper.

-I have to figure out what's squeaking in the front suspension, might have to replace my a-arm bushings, or maybe it's the fabtech coilover squeaking somehow...

-On the subject of the coilover, the truck needs new shocks too. I was thinking maybe taking it back to the OEM Bilsteins that came on the TRD package, but that's like $300 and I don't think they come with a lifetime warranty like Napa premiums do, still not sure on this one either, haven't looked into it a lot yet. And I'm not sure what is compatible with the coilovers either, need to look into that.

-Eventually I need to replace the trailer hitch, especially if I'm going to tow anything of significance. I don't know where the one that's on there came from, but it looks sketchy to me and I don't like it.

-I found out that none of the 1st gen Tundras came with a power antenna, just a stationary antenna. But I also found out that I can get a power antenna from a 1st gen Sequoia and it will plug right into the back of my radio. And when I do that when the radio is turned on the antenna will go up automatically and when the radio is shut off the antenna lowers automatically. And since the OEM antenna mount for the 1st gen Tundras is known for breaking (and mine is broken), it will be a good upgrade :thumb:

-I would like to get a set of Weathertech floormats. I don't like wearing holes in the factory carpet floormats, and I think these are really nice to keep mud and snow etc. from staining the interior of the vehicle. At about $100 per set I think that's pretty reasonable.

-Finally, I am thinking about swapping my Ham radio to the Tundra, since I hardly drive the FJ40 these days. I've been thinking about how to do this, and I would also like to take up the wasted space on top of the tranny hump. There is a cool solution for this. A later model 1st gen Tundra or Sequoia has a larger center console that extends all the way forward, that basically bolts right in with some different brackets. And I can get one that has the wood trim like I currently have so it'll match perfectly :D I figure I can put my radio somewhere on that sucker, and I won't feel bad about hacking it up because I can put the OEM one back in if needed, and then I can get the removable faceplate kit and mount my faceplate somewhere else on the console or in the garage door opener holder up by the windshield.

Once I get these things taken care of I'll be happy to drive it for a while without making any other large changes. I like not having this truck modded too much, it's kinda nice.

Hulk
11-01-2010, 11:45 AM
I have a couple of OEM Bilsteins that I won at the RS Rally. Coming to the RS meeting on Wednesday? I can throw them in the truck for you to take a look at.

subzali
06-12-2011, 10:17 PM
<snip>
-The rotors are warped - apparently this is a common problem due to undersized calipers on the early Tundras. Both of my rotors have been turned and replaced before I bought the truck, and they're warped again. The solution is to swap out the calipers for a pair of 2004-2006 Tundra calipers. There is a TSB on this procedure, and the parts are something like $1700 from the dealer :eek: Still trying to figure out how to approach this one...

I took care of this upgrade today. 2004 Tundra calipers (a little different shape, part of the TSB), Brembo plain rotors, Hawk LTS brake pads. Hopefully this'll keep any brake pulsing at bay well, supposedly for good. We'll see. Anyone need a pair of S13WE calipers as an upgrade to their 4runner/Tacoma? ;)

<snip>-I have to figure out what's squeaking in the front suspension, might have to replace my a-arm bushings, or maybe it's the fabtech coilover squeaking somehow...

-On the subject of the coilover, the truck needs new shocks too. I was thinking maybe taking it back to the OEM Bilsteins that came on the TRD package, but that's like $300 and I don't think they come with a lifetime warranty like Napa premiums do, still not sure on this one either, haven't looked into it a lot yet. And I'm not sure what is compatible with the coilovers either, need to look into that.

Well, this issue got somewhat pushed to the forefront today. I noticed while I was working on my brakes that my passenger side coilover shock is broken. The eye where it attaches to the lower a-arm is busted. It's a fox shock that came as part of the Fabtech coilover arrangement that the PPO bought/installed, so I guess I need to call Fox and see if they can do anything for me. Even though I'm planning on going back to the stock coilovers with OE-style Bilstein shocks, I was hoping to have this Fabtech setup as a backup for if I ever get a bumper and winch setup for the front. My driver's side shock is (and has been) leaking as well, so it's time for new shocks anyway.

I also noticed that my cv boot is torn on my driver's side, so I guess I need to replace that sooner rather than later. Should I just go ahead and replace both or should I just keep an eye on the other one for when it eventually tears?

Both of these issues along with the squeaking (which I think is worn out a-arm bushings) I guess are going to have to be dealt with soon, though I think I'll leave the bushing replacement to the experts since it involves the alignment, which I don't want to royally screw up. Supposedly some catastrophic failures can occur if I neglect the a-arm bushings and/or the cv joint? Oh the joys of vehicle ownership :rolleyes:

But hey I saved >$20,000 by buying a used vehicle, so I can afford a few hundred $$ for the inevitable repairs right?

I would like to invite others' thoughts on this, as I've never owned/worked on a modern IFS 4x4 truck before. Tips/tricks/resources would be helpful :D

AHorseThief
06-13-2011, 08:18 AM
What we all really want to know is what color you blinged out your new calipers with. :grinpimp:

ttubb
06-13-2011, 08:41 AM
I took care of this upgrade today. 2004 Tundra calipers (a little different shape, part of the TSB), Brembo plain rotors, Hawk LTS brake pads. Hopefully this'll keep any brake pulsing at bay well, supposedly for good. We'll see. Anyone need a pair of S13WE calipers as an upgrade to their 4runner/Tacoma? ;)




PM sent...Terry

Jacket
06-13-2011, 10:19 AM
Is the CV boot torn from a branch/rock/road debris, or from rubbing along the fins? If it's from rubbing, you'll probably see the other side develop the same issue soon enough, but if the hole is just from random debris I wouldn't worry about the other side. The replacement job is pretty simple, although you need a special tool to crimp the clamps if you use OEM style.

So you have an aftermarket coilover (Fox)? Is it taller than stock? I think you'd be disappointed to go back to OEM Bilsteins (mushy), but if you are going aftermarket Bilsteins that are better than OEM spec that sounds Ok. While you are in there changing the boot(s), you could pull the coilover and take it to a shop with a hydraulic spring compressor and have them swap out the struts. It's worth every penny of the ~ $60 per side.....

subzali
06-13-2011, 11:02 AM
It ripped just to the outside of the inner clamp, the small one around the axle shaft. Just looks dry rotted and cracked from 11 years of Colorado summers.

I've been doing some reading on the Bilsteins, and I think you're right on getting something a little stiffer. I'm pretty sure the Tundra guys have it all figured out by part # and everything, so I'll probably go that direction. The PPO put on a Fabtech 0-2.5" adjustable "lift" - really a leveling kit I guess, but supposedly the spring rates of the coils is higher than stock, and I guess the shocks probably have more travel than stock. I think it's adusted all the way down so I'm getting no lift, just stiffer suspension in the front, but I'm not sure if OEM size Bilsteins will go right in or what, so I just figure I'll take it all back to stock form and figure it out from there.

Rezarf
06-13-2011, 11:33 AM
looking good matt.

subzali
06-13-2011, 12:36 PM
...I also noticed that my cv boot is torn on my driver's side, so I guess I need to replace that sooner rather than later. Should I just go ahead and replace both or should I just keep an eye on the other one for when it eventually tears?...

Ouch! $713 according to toyodiy.com for a cv shaft! Really!?

Jacket
06-13-2011, 12:42 PM
That can't be right. The Tacoma ones were 300-400 for new, or $125 for a lightly used one from Central Foreign. But the boot itself should be < $50.

Jacket
06-13-2011, 12:47 PM
I like the idea of adjustable coilovers - better performance than stock and you can fine tune the ride height based on your load and preference. But the adjuster has a tendency to get corroded and seize up, leaving you stuck at wherever you set it to begin with.

I would think pretty much any similar length shock with an eye bolt at the bottom and a stud on the top should be compatible, although some might argue you should find a shock that's set up to match the spring rate of your coil.

A set of high end Fox shocks should do the trick... ;)

subzali
06-13-2011, 12:48 PM
Is it adviseable to just replace the boot and repack with grease?

subzali
06-13-2011, 12:52 PM
I like the idea of adjustable coilovers - better performance than stock and you can fine tune the ride height based on your load and preference. But the adjuster has a tendency to get corroded and seize up, leaving you stuck at wherever you set it to begin with.

I would think pretty much any similar length shock with an eye bolt at the bottom and a stud on the top should be compatible, although some might argue you should find a shock that's set up to match the spring rate of your coil.

A set of high end Fox shocks should do the trick... ;)

IMO, this Fabtech arrangement is a great mod if you plan on never having to service it. Problem #1 is as you mentioned. Problem #2 is that the high-end Fox shocks that are found with this setup are rebuildable - but there are only 2 Fox locations in the country where they rebuild them (at ~$70 a pop). So you have to take them off over the weekend, mail them on Monday, wait and hopefully get them back Friday, reinstall them the next weekend. Not so good IMO.

And yeah, that OEM clamp pincher SST is making the boot replacement look a little scary.

Jacket
06-13-2011, 12:56 PM
I guess it depends on your plans and funds. If you can source a cheap Auto Zone CV axle with a lifetime warranty for ~ $75, and you are comfortable with that, then that is probably a better value prop over replacing the boots.

But compared to a $400 CV axle (per side), it might be financially more viable to try and just replace the boots. This assumes that you haven't run the current axle (with the hole in it) dry and filled it up with road debris.....

subzali
06-13-2011, 12:56 PM
?
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1357927,parttype,2288

Jacket
06-13-2011, 12:59 PM
I just did a search on car-part.com, and there are a number of axle shafts listed for early Tundras in the $80-$125 range. Maybe that's an option?

subzali
06-22-2012, 07:28 AM
Just updating this thread. In 2011 I replaced my coilovers and one of my front CVs. Went to Jim's Got Parts and picked up a set of coilovers from a TRD Tundra, same as mine. Pulled the shocks out and threw in a set of Bilstein's. They cleaned up great and almost look brand new. The front dropped about 1/2" - 3/4", but that's ok with me.

On the rear, what a pain that shock replacement was. The truck had Ranchos on it, and the upper part of the shock is right below the bed. You have to get a small wrench or a crescent wrench on a flat machined on the end of the stud, then turn the nut off with another wrench, with both your hands squeezed between the frame rail and the bed. It may have been easier to pull the bed. Not kidding. My dad and I ended up having to cut the shock boot, hold the thing with a pipe wrench, and finally were able to work the thing off. The Bilsteins that I put on have an allen key on the end of the shaft, maybe that will work better. But I don't understand why Toyota couldn't have used an eye at the top? :confused:

The bottom was fun too. Rusted solid on there. Had to take the angle grinder and dremel and cut the eye in half and then split it off with a chisel, that was fun :rolleyes:

Most difficult shock replacement ever.

Anyway, so this summer I've been doing some stuff too.

Got a $500 Truxedo Lo-Pro tonneau cover for $150 off Craigslist. I thought it was a good deal :) Got some Wolfstein's tonneau cover cleaner and protectant, so I'll give that a try sometime when I have some access to water.

I finally wanted to just replace my exhaust and my trailer hitch. So I went to Jim's and they had a hitch that was an OEM configuration, and a low-miles 2005 regular cab that I thought might be close enough for the stock exhaust to work.

The hitch wouldn't work with my dual pipes, so I had to get my exhaust off before messing with the hitch.

I wrestled the old pipes out, but when I put the 2005 y-pipe up to fit it in place, it was about 8" too short :eek: It was after 9pm after it had been 100 degrees that day, and I was working outside on pavement that was well above 100 degrees, so I wasn't in a good mood already, so I just took a deep breath, wrestled the pipes back under the truck, and went to work the next day.

Went back to Jim's and they had a 2002 AC, which after looking it up uses the same exhaust as mine, but it had more miles. Oh well. So we pulled that exhaust off to swap. After we got it off I realized it had a Dynomax kit on it, sweet. That's what I wanted anyway, and now I don't have to pay full retail for it :thumb:

After a couple more gyrations with the bolts galling up and having to order more parts, last night I finally had a window to get this stuff replaced. Had to pull out the cordless drill and drill out two galled bolts so I could break the flanges for the y-pipe, and after wrestling the pipes out from under the truck again the new exhaust fitted up perfectly :thumb:

Alright, so then I moved on to the trailer hitch. Turns out I had to pretty much fully disassemble the rear bumper, as the bracing for the chrome part of the bumper is integrated into the trailer hitch. Used a couple tires stacked to give me the height I needed to hold the hitch while I bolted it in place. This thing is burly; it has 3 10mm bolts on each side bolting it to the side of the frame, and 2 10mm bolts on each side bolting it to the bottom of the frame. The only thing I can't figure out is that on the build sheet for this truck that I got when I bought it I thought that it had the towing package on it. The wiring looks factory, but the hitch I pulled off certainly wasn't. The new one I put on matches what is on toyodiy.com, so I'm pretty confident it's the factory one. And all the bolt holes match up, including the one way forward on the frame rail that has a captured nut for me to use.

So after about 4 hours of pushing, pulling, getting metal chips in my hair and rust scale on my face, it was finally done. I chiseled the old exhaust into smaller pieces to fit in my bed, and also to get out some frustration over work and the fact that that exhaust has been a pain in my ____ for so long, so that felt good :D

Started up the truck, and man is it quiet. Just what I've been wanting for my DD. We'll see if it performs any differently, but I'm just glad to have gotten rid of those redneck chrome pipes out the back and that obnoxious loudness.

Some pics:
1-3: The trailer hitch I pulled off this thing. Kinda small looking to me, a large unsupported span, and mismatched bolt holes on the ends. Yikes

4-5: The new one. I had treeroot help me clean it up a bit, someone had been goober welding on it and some of that needed to be fixed, but overall it's a good unit.

Glad to have these projects done, now on to the next thing :thumb:

subzali
08-22-2012, 08:59 PM
Mmmm...good combination of Toyotas and bikes. Thanks again Randy! :cheers:

subzali
08-22-2012, 09:00 PM
Hopefully it'll work good for two bikes or two dirtbikes.

AxleIke
08-22-2012, 10:57 PM
Looks good.

You ride a hard tail? Dang, I knew you were tough, but I had no idea! My brother and I were just marveling at a couple dudes on hard tails on a ride last week.

I'm not man enough for that.

Bike rack bar deal looks sharp. You should market them!

subzali
08-23-2012, 08:48 AM
eh - there's plenty of stuff already on the market for carrying bicycles in pickup trucks. I had additional needs of it being strong enough to hold dirtbikes as well. Furthermore, I needed a wheel stop for the dirtbike so I don't have to take the tonneau cover off every time I want to carry the KTM in the back (don't want the knobbies tearing up the vinyl you know). I think this will work. Now I just need to come up with some mods to carry up to 2 more bicycles or 1 more dirtbike. Need to figure out how to carry bicycles with thru-axles on them too.

Hardtail is no big deal. Riding cross bikes or single speeds on front range trails is for goonies. Believe me, if I had the money I wouldn't be riding a 12-year-old hardtail. For what it's worth it still rides great and as long as I can keep my legs and lungs strong I can make it up obstacles that a lot of guys on fancy-a$$ full suspensions dismount and walk up.

rover67
08-23-2012, 10:47 AM
Hey I'm no gooney! I just don't like hearing chains clanking around! :)

You just need an adapter like this for thru axle forks. It is what I use. If I go to another bike rack on a friends car I just move the adapter, otherwise it stays on ours.

http://www.carbonconnection.com/sea-sucker-fork-up-15mm-adapter-for-bike-rack/

subzali
08-23-2012, 11:02 AM
Hey I'm no gooney! I just don't like hearing chains clanking around! :)

You just need an adapter like this for thru axle forks. It is what I use. If I go to another bike rack on a friends car I just move the adapter, otherwise it stays on ours.

http://www.carbonconnection.com/sea-sucker-fork-up-15mm-adapter-for-bike-rack/

:p:

Rezarf
08-23-2012, 11:57 AM
Looking good Matt-

smslavin
08-23-2012, 12:30 PM
Riding single speeds on front range trails is for goonies.

hey! what are you trying to say? :hill:

AxleIke
08-23-2012, 12:45 PM
eh - there's plenty of stuff already on the market for carrying bicycles in pickup trucks. I had additional needs of it being strong enough to hold dirtbikes as well. Furthermore, I needed a wheel stop for the dirtbike so I don't have to take the tonneau cover off every time I want to carry the KTM in the back (don't want the knobbies tearing up the vinyl you know). I think this will work. Now I just need to come up with some mods to carry up to 2 more bicycles or 1 more dirtbike. Need to figure out how to carry bicycles with thru-axles on them too.

Hardtail is no big deal. Riding cross bikes or single speeds on front range trails is for goonies. Believe me, if I had the money I wouldn't be riding a 12-year-old hardtail. For what it's worth it still rides great and as long as I can keep my legs and lungs strong I can make it up obstacles that a lot of guys on fancy-a$$ full suspensions dismount and walk up.

LOL! I don't know what a goonie is, but I probably am one. :bowdown:

I'm definitely one of those dismount and walk up types. I like riding down, not so much riding up. If it looks hard, I just get off, save my energy for going down. But, I'm not in very good shape either. My brother rides everything, but he's crazy! :D

nakman
11-09-2012, 10:27 AM
Hey check this one out.

KdZB4EZe8EY

subzali
11-09-2012, 11:40 AM
You need a 16K winch to go fishing?

Freakin' brodozers...:rolleyes:

nakman
11-09-2012, 11:45 AM
You need a 16K winch to go fishing?




Yes, and 3 sub woofers. But make sure the winch uses steel cable, so it sinks and doesn't interfere with your bobber/worm setup.

corsair23
11-09-2012, 01:17 PM
You need a 16K winch to go fishing?

Freakin' brodozers...:rolleyes:

Eh....it's only a M12K so not overkill at all for fishing and landing that 5lb trout :hill:

The strobes in the marker lights though? Are those for night fishing :confused:

simps80
11-09-2012, 05:02 PM
You need a 16K winch to go fishing?

Freakin' brodozers...:rolleyes:

BRODOZERS!!!!!!!!!!!

am I the only one that didn't know there was an official name for those things?

very fitting as well!

Corbet
11-09-2012, 08:33 PM
That represents pretty much the exact opposite of anything I'd ever want to own.:rolleyes:

Squishy!
12-02-2012, 10:33 AM
Brodozers... That's a keeper.


I have to say Matt you've got a sweet DD. good work! I need one of those bed fork bars too that thing is pretty slick

subzali
12-04-2012, 02:40 PM
Brodozers... That's a keeper.


I have to say Matt you've got a sweet DD. good work! I need one of those bed fork bars too that thing is pretty slick

Thanks Justin - I'm gonna be trading it out for the Corolla here soon as my commute just jumped to 27 miles each way (it's 9 miles right now). Though I might try the 18 mile alternate route too.

My commute will drop back down to 14 miles each way in hopefully March or so.

Need to give it a good wash and wax before winter sets in too heavy. It would be nice to get it buffed and such to make it shine but that's not in the budget this year, again :(

Squishy!
12-09-2012, 12:10 AM
I hear that. I drive a 1.6L civic to work most days. It's definitely the best option but sometimes I gotta drive the baby in...