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AxleIke
06-25-2009, 11:54 AM
Been working on this for the last 8 months, and its finally driving around again. Figured I'd post up for fun.

Its been copied and pasted from elsewhere, so bear with the commentary.

AxleIke
06-25-2009, 11:55 AM
To begin:

The end of an era. Both pieces of equipment served me well, but it was time to retire. The ARB was an amazing bumper, and I loved it. But, it was a little too big for what I wanted.

The sliders were a metal shop final project, and were not built, or welded, as well as they needed to be. Amazingly, they held up quite well, but its time for something better.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3622.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3620.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3619.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3621.jpg


Neither one will be replaced for a number of months. Lots of other stuff to do first.

Next installment: Drivetrain lift preparation.

AxleIke
06-25-2009, 11:56 AM
Progress: Got most of the dash out. Holy crap, dash boards suck. I like how simple an FJ-40 dash is. Couple of bolts and out it comes. Ugh.

Should be able to finish the dash in another day or so.

Xmember center:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3629.jpg

AxleIke
06-25-2009, 11:56 AM
Something's missing:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3632.jpg

The heater core was a pain too, but got it out, and the hoses reconnected so it will still run enough to move around.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3634.jpg

AxleIke
06-25-2009, 11:57 AM
I've been working at the carpet. It isn't going well. Even with the heat gun, it is an outrageous process. I am flabbergasted by this crap. I simply cannot believe that the carpet UNDER THE REAR SEAT needed to be glued down like it was. Good lord.

First tranny cut was tenative. It gets bigger.


http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3650.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3646.jpg

AxleIke
06-25-2009, 11:57 AM
More stuff. Got the tank dropped.

Getting the fuel lines out sucked hard.

Tank dropped:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3653.jpg

Lots of clearance :D

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3655.jpg

This spot now has lots of potential for cargo/something;

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3654.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3656.jpg

AxleIke
06-25-2009, 11:58 AM
Another lovely thing: They started double paneling the floor once you get back a little way. Yeah, not fun.

Anyway pics:

Inside:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3657.jpg

Closer to flat:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3660.jpg

Like, bummer dude:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3658.jpg

That horsecollar thing is going to suck a bit.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3662.jpg

AxleIke
06-25-2009, 11:58 AM
From there, I finished cutting out the floor, but didn't have pics because it was cold.

Got the tranny dropped and cleaned closer to a silver color.

Fabbed up my crossmember:


http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3666-1.jpg

Plasma is awesome. Two bottom brackets are 3/8", two L brackets are also 3/8", round tubes are .120 wall DOM, and the 4 smaller L brackets are 3/16", and the gussets are all 3/16".

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3665.jpg

All tacked up:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3667.jpg

Tacked and put onto my spare case, to check for fitment:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3669-1.jpg

You know whats good? Remembering to turn on your shielding gas.

No gas:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3672.jpg

Gas:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3673-1.jpg

Welded:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3677.jpg

AxleIke
06-25-2009, 11:59 AM
After cutting out my floor, I decided to get my rear suspension set up, so that, when building my tunnel, I wouldn't have any issues with the driveshaft in the rear.

So, last week, I pulled out my extra rear housing, from an 87 runner, and cleaned it. Then, I gutted it, pulling the axles, diff, brakelines, an diff studs.

On Saturday, I forgot my camera, but I drove to my buddy kevin's house, and plasma'd off the bracketry. Plasma is awesome. Burned everything off, and then had just a couple passes with a grinder to clean up. Super fun.

When that was done, it looked like this:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3684.jpg

In Saturday's mail, my shaving kit arrived. Awesome!

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3686-1.jpg

The steel is all 3/8" plate.

So, I got to work.

Inked in:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3687.jpg

Cut.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3688.jpg

The cutting sucked. I cut too much in an error of judgement, as I thought the plate would sit differently. Not a huge deal, but just added extra welding, which translated to extra time while I let the housing cool between welds. One of those, kick-yourself-in-the-pants moments.

Set in place, ready to weld:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3689.jpg


Finished product. I'm calling it my baby's bottom, as it is smooth like one.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3695.jpg

My axle housing base is now smooth, and armored to 3/8". It also should give me about an inch of clearance. I will be measuring to see if its actually that much.

Currently its sitting in the garage with some old engine oil in it, to see if it leaks. Hopefully not.

Cheers.

AxleIke
06-25-2009, 12:00 PM
Updates:

Got the rear suspension out, and the new stuff in:


After finishing the rear axle up, I cleanup up a bit, did a lot of organizing, and turned the truck around. Also, due to the extreme generosity of a friend, I picked up a 14" abrasive chop saw for a six pack of beer.

So, I took off my rear axle, and cleaned my frame:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3703.jpg

I also began fabbing my frame side bracketry.

Here are my frame plates:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3699.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3700.jpg

And the back "plates" (rectangular tubes) that will be where the tabs weld to, along with the plates and some square tubular gussets:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3701.jpg

And the last of my bling arrived via the UPS man:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3705.jpg

18" 300 lb/inch coils

AxleIke
06-25-2009, 12:00 PM
After a brief delay with welder issues (Miller ROCKS, took REALLY good care of me), I Got back to work.

Frame side brackets and Axle side panhard mount all burned in:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3713.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3716.jpg

AxleIke
06-25-2009, 12:01 PM
I drilled out the holes at work on a drill press.

This was slow. A lot of stacking/creative leaning, to get things to line up properly, and actually sit without falling:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3719.jpg

Even still, I'm going to have to pound this bracket a little once its welded to the frame. Both tabs are leaning about 1/32 or so inboard. Not good. But, easy to fix. However, it means that gussets will have to be done on the truck. :(

Imagine that the firebrick is actually the frame rail, and that you are looking down on the set up from above (ie through the truck, xray vision style). You can see how the bracket mounts, and how the arm comes off of it.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3720.jpg

AxleIke
06-25-2009, 12:01 PM
A good weekend.

I realized I hadn't exactly explained my suspension before, so here goes:

This is a total experiment. I'm going to see how it works. It may work well, and be really cool, or it may suck huge, and have to get changed next winter.

The good part is, if it does need to be changed, I can convert to either a true 3 link, and jeep 3 link, or a different radius arm set up. I'll be out about 65 bucks if that happens.

The idea came from staring at an 80 series land cruiser and listening to the owner complain about his front radius arms being rock magnets.

After staring for a few minutes, I thought to my self, "wow, those do hang down far. But, if you flipped them on top of the axle, they'd have a TON of clearance." And, so, I kept turning it over in my head, and finally picked up a set of used arms from Slee Offroad for 50 bucks.

I stuck them up under my truck, and was happy to see that not only did they give me virtually nothing hanging below the axle (the rear mount hangs down 1/2", and is smooth), but, when tucked above the bottom of the frame, they were higher up than my leaf spring. Much better clearance all around.

Anyway, obviously I see the issues with this, and there are a few, as well as the fact that it would be much easier to link it, and call it good. However, I like different. I figure I'll see where this goes, and go back to the norm if it doesn't work out.

Back to the pictures :D

On Saturday, with the help of a buddy, I got things measured, and remeasured, and remeasured, ad nauseam. However, things turned out straight, so thats good.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3722.jpg

Setting the pinion angle

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3724.jpg

Axle strapped down so it wouldn't move.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3725.jpg

Tacked in the radius arms. Looking good so far.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3726.jpg

That's as far as we got. Troy came over today, and helped me get the rest going.

Panhard in:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3729.jpg

Spring buckets in:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3730.jpg

Small snag, due to a dumb mistake. I calculated a loaded truck rear axle weight to be 1200 lbs. I wasn't far off. However, I miscalculated. If the truck has a 1200 lb weight on the axle, then each spring has 600 lbs. Bummer. So, I got 18" 300lb/inch springs, thinking they'd compress around 4". Wrong. Loaded, they'll get about 2. So, sending these back, and getting a set of 16". That should be about perfect.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3732.jpg

Before Troy left, we hauled out his spare, which is the tire and rim set up I hope to run. I like it!

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3733.jpg

I booger welded in the frame brackets tonight. I don't know what it is, but I can't for the life of me make pretty welds upside down. Practice makes perfect I'm sure, and I've gotten all the tips and tricks. I just suck at it. Oh well.

AxleIke
06-25-2009, 12:02 PM
Slow progress. Lots of grinding, welding, etc...

Axle is done, and ready to go back under the truck.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3735.jpg

Here is a shot of one of the radius arm brackets gusseted in:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3739.jpg

And my favorite part, a little bling:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3736.jpg

:D:D:D:D:D

AxleIke
06-25-2009, 12:02 PM
More progress. Got a lot done:

First off, here is a shot of the truck with no weight in it, besides the transmission. It'll have about 300 more lbs in the back, which, when added, makes the rear sit at a perfect height. Which is stellar!

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3754.jpg

Here is the flat Belly:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3749.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3753.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3751.jpg

And, a shot of the motor mount, so you can see why I didn't feel that lifting the motor was needed:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3747.jpg

And a quick interior shot showing how it fits inside. The Pass seat fits! It will be close but, I can make it work...

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3758.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3755.jpg

AxleIke
06-25-2009, 12:03 PM
Got more work done.

Truck now moves under its own power.

Got the old crossmember torched out, and the new one put in:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_0597.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_0598.jpg

Hole cut for the tank:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_0599.jpg

Tank in:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_0600.jpg

This was cool. Lots of clearance under the tank. I didn't think it would sit up that high. Very cool

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_0601.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_0602.jpg

Lastly, got the horseshoe crossmember dealt with.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_0603.jpg

Started on the tranny tunnel. One cross piece is all, as it took a little adjustment to change from welding 1/4" to sheet metal. Burned a few holes before I got it dialed in. I will likely go to oxy/acetylene for the rest. Its much easier to keep from burning through with that.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_0604.jpg

AxleIke
06-25-2009, 12:04 PM
This weekend I got my ARB reinstalled, plumbed, and working. Put in new diff studs, new seals, and got my breather nozzle put back in.

Also got the passenger side of the tranny tunnel done. I gave up on adjusting wire speed and found a setting that worked, and then ran a million tack welds. Doesn't look great, but its strong. Dr Frankenstein anyone?

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3807.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3809.jpg

I was very happy with it. Even with just one side done, the floor has stiffened up almost to the point where it doesn't move. I can BARELY flex the driver side. Once I'm done with this, I will be covering everything with body/seam sealer so it looks a little better. :D

AxleIke
06-25-2009, 12:04 PM
Got the tunnel done save the screws to hold the top plate on. Have to buy those and the weather strip first.

Seats fit in the factory locations, but raised 1" in the rear via 4crawler spacers and a support I welded in.

Also, the shift boots were just set on there for the pics. They too need to be bolted down.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/DSC_1400.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/DSC_1402.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/DSC_1407.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/DSC_1409.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/DSC_1412.jpg

AxleIke
06-25-2009, 12:05 PM
A somewhat big update:

After the last update, I was somewhat burned out, so I didn't do too much for about 2 weeks. I did get everything Seam Sealed, primed, and undercoated.

From there I did the interior. I will get some pictures of that just as soon as I get the radio back in. I put down window flashing, which I found that 1 18 dollar roll covered my passenger area with two layers everywhere except the tranny tunnel. I didn't do two layers on the tranny tunnel because of clearance issues with the seats.

I then redid a TON of wiring, which had been somewhat of a cluster before this. All wires are now soldered, and loomed, and attached to the factory harness.

After that, I cleaned about 100 lbs of dust out of my heat/cooling tubing, and reassembled my dash completely with the exception of the radio (a bit more wiring to do for the CB and Sirius).

AxleIke
06-25-2009, 12:05 PM
The other major thing that has changed is the rear suspension. I flex tested the truck with the 300 lb/inch springs, and the radius arms. I had all of 4" of travel, which wasn't going to work. The radius arms just bound up too much. Not to worry though.

This weekend, I redid the rear suspension and painted the rear axle. It is now a 3 link. I simply cut the back mount off of the radius arms, and added a 3rd, upper link. This corrected my pinion angle, and allowed the truck to flex MUCH better. It now flexes several inches more than the leaf springs. Its not a bunch of flex, but that's okay, because, as I'm still IFS, the rear does not need to flex a ridiculous amount.

I also built my front bumper, minus my tow hooks, and my buddy Troy built the main beam for my sliders. Bumper is 1/4" thick tube, with 1/4" mount to the frame, and 3/16" bracing. Its a beast, but it should hold up.

I now only have some tube work to finish, and they can go on the truck!!! Then, a belly skid and this sucker is ready to wheel.

On to the pictures.

What the new link started as:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/P6030043.jpg

Flexing out, with the new bumper:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3929.jpg

Droop:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3930.jpg

Stuff (actually can stuff a little farther, but the tire was really hitting the back outter corner of the fender, and the hill was just starting to tip the truck. In other situations, it still has another inch to 2 inches of compression):

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3931.jpg

Suspension:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3932.jpg

Here you can see the cut off radius arm:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3933.jpg

Upper link:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3934.jpg

All in all, this gives me the flex I wanted with a TON of clearance. Those radius arms REALLY give nice ground clearance. I'm happy with it.

AxleIke
06-25-2009, 12:06 PM
Got the radio in, and the gas filler painted and installed with its grommit.

Some interior pics, shots of the gas tank and filler set up, and the painted front bumper, and body "straighting" in the front, so the grill no longer hangs off like a rag doll on the driver side.

Filler neck:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3938.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3939.jpg

Gas tank

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3941.jpg

Interior

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3942.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3943-1.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3944.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3947.jpg

corsair23
06-25-2009, 12:27 PM
Holy great mother of transformations Isaac :eek: :D

You've been a busy bugger haven't you :thumb: - Looks great

Red_Chili
06-25-2009, 02:43 PM
Looks very sano. Think you need any bracing on where those arms connect to the axle? That is a problem area on the later 4Runners.

So why exactly have you not done a solid front axle yet? I thought I saw one in your garage. Too much work? :lmao:

ElliottB
06-25-2009, 03:03 PM
Wow! That is some great work. Now get to chopping on the SAS. :D

rover67
06-25-2009, 03:04 PM
Holy smokes you've been busy! :eek:

I didn't realize how big of a deal it was to see you driving your truck the other day!

Wow..

AxleIke
06-25-2009, 03:45 PM
Holy great mother or transformations Isaac :eek: :D

You've been a busy bugger haven't you :thumb: - Looks great

Definitely been busy...LOL. Thanks man!

Looks very sano. Think you need any bracing on where those arms connect to the axle? That is a problem area on the later 4Runners.

So why exactly have you not done a solid front axle yet? I thought I saw one in your garage. Too much work? :lmao:

Not sure what sano means?

The arms mount to the axle with 3/16" plate and then more 3/16 for gussets which tie in underneath. On the previous page, you can see the front mounts a little better.

A SAS is not too much work, its too much money. The axle you see in a HP FJ80. Looking at 700 for the high steer, 700 for axles, several hundred in new seals and hardware/brakes, plus the cost of linked front, which would likely go with coilovers, plus new gears all around, and another locker. It'll happen, but later on.

Wow! That is some great work. Now get to chopping on the SAS. :D

LOL. Gonna wheel it first for a while!

Holy smokes you've been busy! :eek:

I didn't realize how big of a deal it was to see you driving your truck the other day!

Wow..

Yeah, it was a pretty big deal. I was stoked about it.

Hulk
06-25-2009, 03:48 PM
Looks really clean!

So was the goal to simply move the entire drive train and gas tank up to get more clearance? It's all still the original equipment, just 6 inches higher?

Are you planning to run bigger tires too?

Your fab skills are awesome! :bowdown:

AxleIke
06-25-2009, 04:16 PM
Looks really clean!

So was the goal to simply move the entire drive train and gas tank up to get more clearance? It's all still the original equipment, just 6 inches higher?

Are you planning to run bigger tires too?

Your fab skills are awesome! :bowdown:

Thanks man!!! That means a lot!

And yes, that was exactly the goal. Still 100% toyota drive train, just up about 5-6". I'll take a shot tonight with the new exhaust on it.

My leaf spring hanger next to the gas tank had rusted almost all the way through, and was a hazard. The radius arms up above the frame have more clearance than a conventional link, and are REALLY strong.

I may bump up to a 315. Not for a while though. The bank account needs to recover and I have some other expenses not too far in the future that will be taking up a bunch (:Princess:)

Red_Chili
06-25-2009, 05:30 PM
"Sano" I guess comes from the custom dirt bike, street bike, or modified vehicle area. Literally, "sanitary"... as in "really friggin' clean". No unnecessary hoo-haw. Spiffy. Well designed and effective for the intended purpose. Schlick man.

AxleIke
06-25-2009, 05:32 PM
Ah :D

When I googled it, I got about 20 different languages, and they meant many different things.

Squishy!
06-25-2009, 05:52 PM
You sir are ridiculous :D but way freakin :cool: not a ton of lift, but a TON of clearance. It's like a six inch lift without the top heavy!

AxleIke
06-25-2009, 08:09 PM
You sir are ridiculous :D but way freakin :cool: not a ton of lift, but a TON of clearance. It's like a six inch lift without the top heavy!

LOL! Yeah, thats about it. Very minimal increase in COG, but lots of ground clearance, and its slideable ground clearance. Once I fab the belly pan, I should be able to drop onto the belly of the truck, and just slide along. Nothing to hang up on anymore.

Uncle Ben
06-25-2009, 08:20 PM
Well done! You have found a secret to making a mini truck cool.....add Cruiser parts! :lmao::lmao::lmao: :bolt:

AxleIke
06-25-2009, 08:50 PM
Couple shots of the flat belly with the drivelines in, and the exhuast:

BTW: HUGE Props to Buds Muffler in Denver. Best exhaust place ever.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3954.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3953.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3955.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3956.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3957.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3958.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3959.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3960.jpg

AxleIke
06-25-2009, 08:52 PM
Well done! You have found a secret to making a mini truck cool.....add Cruiser parts! :lmao::lmao::lmao: :bolt:

:lmao::lmao::lmao:

Look up cool in the dictionary dude. Its defined as "mini-truck"

Cheese
06-25-2009, 10:06 PM
Looks real good Isaac, I know there has been a lot of planning and sweating put into this.

Does this mean we need to go out and shake things down? Been a long time!

AxleIke
06-25-2009, 10:14 PM
Looks real good Isaac, I know there has been a lot of planning and sweating put into this.

Does this mean we need to go out and shake things down? Been a long time!

Yes, yes it does.

I need to get my sliders all finished up, and the belly skid done, but then it'll be ready to roll.

Uncle Ben
06-25-2009, 10:34 PM
:lmao::lmao::lmao:

Look up cool in the dictionary dude. Its defined as "mini-truck"


cool

Definition: psychologically cool and unenthusiastic; unfriendly or unresponsive or showing dislike; "relations were cool and polite"; "a cool reception"; "cool to the idea of higher taxes"

rover67
06-25-2009, 11:07 PM
I love the way it turned out underneath. Looks really really slick. I love how far up you got the drivetrain. Great work, you really put some time into it and it shows! :)

Buds was really great to me too. I went there a while back and they really did me up right.

AxleIke
06-25-2009, 11:12 PM
cool

Definition: psychologically cool and unenthusiastic; unfriendly or unresponsive or showing dislike; "relations were cool and polite"; "a cool reception"; "cool to the idea of higher taxes"

:hill:

Ah, got me! Well played sir, well played. :lmao::lmao:

Red_Chili
06-26-2009, 09:02 AM
I think you're gonna wanna stiffen up the tcase crossmember. Like, with a vertical member welded 90*, same gauge or something. Unless your belly pan will be structural and bolted to it.

Lower arms on top of the axle, along with the upper arm just higher... interesting!

I've got some 3" ID HREW cut in half to wrap the axle housing right at the brackets, if you need to beef the bracket mounting locations at all.

nakman
06-26-2009, 10:46 AM
Sorry if this was covered and I missed it, but do those control arms hit the shocks at all? Seems really close in the pics, but hard to tell.


But very impressive work! just amazing..

AxleIke
06-26-2009, 10:52 AM
I think you're gonna wanna stiffen up the tcase crossmember. Like, with a vertical member welded 90*, same gauge or something. Unless your belly pan will be structural and bolted to it.

Lower arms on top of the axle, along with the upper arm just higher... interesting!

I've got some 3" ID HREW cut in half to wrap the axle housing right at the brackets, if you need to beef the bracket mounting locations at all.

The same thought has crossed my mind on the tcase xmember. I'll probably accomplish the stiffening by welding tented angle along the length.

If I see weakness at the brackets, I'll definitely hit you up for that 3" tube. Sounds nice!

The lowers are about at the centerline of the axle, so not quite on top. 8" of separation between the uppers and lowers is good for the axle end.

AxleIke
06-26-2009, 10:53 AM
Sorry if this was covered and I missed it, but do those control arms hit the shocks at all? Seems really close in the pics, but hard to tell.


But very impressive work! just amazing..

Thanks!

Nope, the shocks don't hit. They get to about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch away.

Red_Chili
06-26-2009, 11:21 AM
The same thought has crossed my mind on the tcase xmember. I'll probably accomplish the stiffening by welding tented angle along the length. I would think that would work.

If I see weakness at the brackets, I'll definitely hit you up for that 3" tube. Sounds nice! Yeah, I was rebuilding a Taco elocker axle housing. The spring perches are pretty notorious for collapsing into the housing itself, from axle wrap, and these were no exception. So I came up with the idea of thicker tube that would be just inside the U bolts, but wrap the axle and carry the force and dissipate it over a larger area. Should be hell for stout.

Keep an eye out for dimpling where your brackets mate with the axle housing, and if it starts the thicker HREW should make it mondo beefy. The only downside is, *careful* stitch welding is mandatory or you will warp your axle housing for sure.

The lowers are about at the centerline of the axle, so not quite on top. 8" of separation between the uppers and lowers is good for the axle end.:thumb: You'll hafta learn me some of that control arm stuff. Sometimes it seems like it should be simple, sometimes it seems like dark arts.

Red_Chili
06-26-2009, 11:23 AM
By the way... Mike Caskey is the only person I've personally seen who does pretty welding upside-down. I have to stitch weld or it comes out looking like glop.

AxleIke
06-26-2009, 12:10 PM
I would think that would work.

Yeah, I was rebuilding a Taco elocker axle housing. The spring perches are pretty notorious for collapsing into the housing itself, from axle wrap, and these were no exception. So I came up with the idea of thicker tube that would be just inside the U bolts, but wrap the axle and carry the force and dissipate it over a larger area. Should be hell for stout.

Keep an eye out for dimpling where your brackets mate with the axle housing, and if it starts the thicker HREW should make it mondo beefy. The only downside is, *careful* stitch welding is mandatory or you will warp your axle housing for sure.

:thumb: You'll hafta learn me some of that control arm stuff. Sometimes it seems like it should be simple, sometimes it seems like dark arts.

I may just pick up a section of the 3" from you, put it on at some point, for preventative measures. Whats the cost per foot?

As for link stuff, its kinda voodoo at first, but its not too bad. The key is that, you can engineer it till the cows come home, but in the end, there are a few basic rules to follow, and the rest is dictated by the body/frame/axle to frame clearance.

If you are building a tube buggy, you can build it picture perfect by the book. If you have a body, you work within acceptable ranges.

AxleIke
06-26-2009, 12:11 PM
By the way... Mike Caskey is the only person I've personally seen who does pretty welding upside-down. I have to stitch weld or it comes out looking like glop.

Yup. Me too. Can't make it look super pretty. Strong, but its definitely stitched.

Rezarf
06-26-2009, 12:37 PM
AWWWW SNAP!

Isaac! What a killer project, I didn't realize you were going to cut and paste a new rear suspension out back... I kept thinking in my head it was all tin work around the tranny tunnel. :eek:

It turned out GREAT man, your fab skills have increased dramitcally with this one bud.

I do have one question though, does one of those gazillion levers but the top down in the rear automatically?

Kidding, hold your head up high you should be proud! :thumb:

Drew

AxleIke
06-26-2009, 12:42 PM
AWWWW SNAP!

Isaac! What a killer project, I didn't realize you were going to cut and paste a new rear suspension out back... I kept thinking in my head it was all tin work around the tranny tunnel. :eek:

It turned out GREAT man, your fab skills have increased dramitcally with this one bud.

I do have one question though, does one of those gazillion levers but the top down in the rear automatically?

Kidding, hold your head up high you should be proud! :thumb:

Drew

Thanks man!!!

No, the top is unfortunately staying on for now. No $$$ for a soft top right now. But hopefully sometime in the next year or so. We'll see. I need tires first.

Red_Chili
06-26-2009, 12:54 PM
I may just pick up a section of the 3" from you, put it on at some point, for preventative measures. Whats the cost per foot?

I can give you some small pieces. You can see my thinking on the Taco axle then, if you swing by. If you want foot-long lengths, best bet is to call up Altitude Steel and have them cut you some (be sure to emphasize 3" ID). They cut me a foot or so, and because I couldn't get down there in time they left it hidden outside their gate after they closed. Great folks.

Red_Chili
06-26-2009, 12:56 PM
No, the top is unfortunately staying on for now. No $$$ for a soft top right now. But hopefully sometime in the next year or so. We'll see. I need tires first.
I remember seeing an article about a guy in Utah who made his own soft top out of Sunbrella material. Made his own hoops, etc. Turned out very nice. It would be right up your alley, FabBoy. :thumb:

Rezarf
06-26-2009, 01:14 PM
Heck at tarp and some bungee's will get you there! :hill:

mtnrunner
06-26-2009, 01:36 PM
Very nice! Wish I had a plasma to make all my brackets like that.

AxleIke
06-26-2009, 03:11 PM
I remember seeing an article about a guy in Utah who made his own soft top out of Sunbrella material. Made his own hoops, etc. Turned out very nice. It would be right up your alley, FabBoy. :thumb:

Hmm. Probably not though. Don't know how to run a sewing machines.

Heck at tarp and some bungee's will get you there! :hill:

LOL!

Very nice! Wish I had a plasma to make all my brackets like that.

Thanks man. Its kevin's plasma!

Red_Chili
06-26-2009, 08:23 PM
Hmm. Probably not though. Don't know how to run a welder.

The above was true not so long ago... eh?

RockRunner
06-28-2009, 11:15 PM
Very nice work, and different and that is cool. I like the belly section a lot as the gas tank movement. I have thought about some of it but just don't think I would want to tackle all of that at once. Now the tank moving might be a nice thing to do.

Can't wait to see the rest, keep it going.

AxleIke
07-13-2009, 10:23 AM
Got my sliders finished and on. HUGE props to UB for use of his bender this weekend. Thanks a ton! :bowdown::kevin:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3978.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3979.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3980.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3982.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3986.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3988.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3989.jpg

rover67
07-13-2009, 11:04 AM
Dude, they look GOOOOOOOOD!!!!!!!

I love the extra hoop in the back! Really really slick!

RockRunner
07-13-2009, 11:46 AM
Very nice, the extra hoops will help you do the twist;)

nakman
07-13-2009, 11:59 AM
Really nice!


but where's all the stuff that's supposed to hang under the truck? :confused:




:bowdown:

AxleIke
07-13-2009, 01:07 PM
Really nice!


but where's all the stuff that's supposed to hang under the truck? :confused:




:bowdown:

LOL !!!!!! :lmao: Thanks man!

AxleIke
07-13-2009, 01:09 PM
Dude, they look GOOOOOOOOD!!!!!!!

I love the extra hoop in the back! Really really slick!

Very nice, the extra hoops will help you do the twist;)

Thanks!

Yeah, the extra hoop at the back is designed to keep stuff off the truck, but NOT be a kickout. I don't really like kickouts as they seem to just jam trucks up, and I've not seen them do any more protection than non-kickouts.

These sit up, with no bar underneath, so that when sliding over a rock, the truck will slide past, and the slider will guide the rock under the tire rather than around, and directly into the sidewall.

Also, while you can't see them very well, the back hoops are gusseted with 3/16 on the inside of the bend.

Uncle Ben
07-13-2009, 03:03 PM
mmmmmmmmmm.....beefy! :cool:

AxleIke
07-13-2009, 03:13 PM
mmmmmmmmmm.....beefy! :cool:

.250 beefy. super mmmmmmmmmm.

Rezarf
07-13-2009, 04:12 PM
Wow! Looks great Isaac, talk about an upgrade from your previous design. Great lines man, I think you nailed the look and protection you were after!

Have you seen any of the soft top stuff coming out of Boulder? I just saw a can-back style soft top on a taco coming down the hill today.

That 4Runner is a shell of what it used to be, great job!

Drew

AxleIke
07-30-2009, 11:09 PM
Got my rear deck finished most of the way. I still need to bolt down the tool box and add latches, but it is complete as well.

Rear deck area:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3997.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3998.jpg

Area for recovery items located by the tail gate for ease of access when on the trail:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_3999.jpg

A storage area for fluids and the like:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4000.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4001.jpg

View from behind the seats:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4002.jpg

The front box is my tool box, which isn't finished yet.

The area right above that is for storing some spare parts, ie two CV's steering crap, belts, brake line, hubs, fuel line, etc...

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4003.jpg

Lastly, I finished my belly pan, but couldn't get very good pics of it.

It hangs down just under an inch below the frame:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4007.jpg

3/16" plate with a checkerboard of tented angle welded to the back side for reinforcement. Super beefy.

Uncle Ben
07-31-2009, 12:29 AM
Outstanding! :thumb::thumb: :bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:

AxleIke
07-31-2009, 08:15 AM
Outstanding! :thumb::thumb: :bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:

Thanks UB!!

Rezarf
07-31-2009, 04:35 PM
Outstanding! :thumb::thumb: :bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:

What he said!!!!:bowdown::eek::D

AxleIke
08-02-2009, 01:21 AM
Annnnnnnddddd..............its broken. :D

Glad I did a shake down run, as it could've been worse, but being close to home was nice.

Long story short: The truck works AWESOME. Nice ride on rollins pass, which, with the ATV's on the wet dirt, has turned hellish. Able to beat the suspension and it soaked it up.

Got to across the creek to the first obstacle, which is quite dug out, and the truck WALKED up it. Scrape and slide, no jamb up, other than the usual AT "issues" (no traction, and gotta heat the tires enough to get grip, time to get something better for sure)

Turned around there as I had to get back for dinner. Next thing I know, i've got some vibes and a weird "singing" noise.

Get out and notice the rear diff is pointed up, rather than at the tcase. Red Chilli and UB pull up behind and help get me going on diagnosis and fix. HUGE PROPS to both of those guys, especially UB for rolling in the dirt and grease with me. Pays to have such good friends. Very thankful for it.

Upon further inspection, the upper link mount gusset pulled the frame outward. Not much, but enough. Welds held great, frame, not so much. Trail fix: flip the link, and shorten the JJ back so there was zero pinion angle and drive it out.

Why? Because I'm dumb and totally got my axle forces wrong. On accel, my upper link is in Tension, NOT compression. I braced for Compression and ignored tension since I assumed tension would be only in reverse. Its opposite. Talking to UB, I realized my mistake and while I'm kicking myself, its not the worst thing.

Funny thing is, I did the lowers correctly, as I did them early on. Just got it in my head to do it this way while redoing the radius arm problem, even have a drawing on a sheet of paper with the force drawn incorrectly and the wrong bracing.

Solution: Cut out the brace, straigten the link mount. Weld angle iron over the strained area, to cover and to give a tie in to the bottom of the frame. I don't trust that metal anymore, though it only deformed, better to cover and spread the future load. Do the same on the other side of the mount. Put in beefy braces on BOTH sides of the mount.

Minor set back, but nothing that can't be figured. I'm VERY happy this happened 5 mins from a 2wd road, and an hour from home, rather than way the hell out somewhere. Certainly sympathizing with UB's WR frustration and disappointment on his first day at BHCC, but upon further consideration, those thoughts are a waste of my energy. Its a mistake to be sure, but its correctable and the inconvinence was much less than it could have been. Lesson Learned and will be corrected for.

Bill and Kevin had good suggestions for fixing up a more permanent solution (4link/y-link), but for the remainder of this season, I'm going to fix it as is, and try and get some wheeling in. I'm afraid that if I tried to work something else right now, I'd lose it. Tired of working on it, and want to play. The way I'm fixing it should completely eliminate this issue from ever repeating itself, as I'll use some good thick steel to replace.

Jacket
08-02-2009, 08:51 PM
Sorry to hear about the set back, but I'm glad it happened in this situation rather than out on Chinaman's or HC.

leiniesred
08-03-2009, 08:01 PM
Isaac: I think your build is really cool. I dig the custom floorpan the most. Huge amount of work and I know it. (more work than I'm willing to do!)

Yeah, the framerails, while fully boxed, are really quite thin. I've burned a hole in mine with the welder with surprising ease. Things bend. No big deal. Add more metal and roll on until next "building season."

AxleIke
08-04-2009, 10:22 AM
Thanks Steve!

I've been looking into it, and have the fix fairly well sorted out...Just gotta take a few measurements at the steel yard, but I hope to box the frame with 3/16" channel.

Then, put LARGE scab plates on top of that, and then put my bracket back on, with braces forward AND backward, all on scab plates on top of the channel, and then gusset the bracket itself, as well as the braces.

I'm also going to reinforce the axle side bracket with a brace on the back and gussets on the front, and, if I can, put the tube pieces underneath the axle on the lower brackets.

Its an embarrassing oversight, but, I've learned a great deal from it, and won't make that mistake again...

BTW, PM'd with a guy on Pirate, who had similar issues, and he said simply, Scab plates are not enough for suspension. The inner frame is simply too thin, ~1/16". It will bend everytime. Plating it the way to go.

AxleIke
08-24-2009, 12:05 AM
Got er all fixed up!

Here are some shots of the problem:

Ripped frame:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4113.jpg

Some shots of the bending/warpage that occurred before the rip, and note my booger welding...I've gotten better, but its still a struggle:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4114.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4115.jpg

The solution! My pops decided to get one of these....I love my old man :D

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4118.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4119.jpg

Problem section GONE!

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4122.jpg

The best part about plasma. This cut is straight off the cutter with just knocking it with a chisel, no hammer, just holding the chisel in my hand. Perfectly straight and clean.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4120.jpg

That is my replacement piece. It's 5"x4"x.25 wall rectangular tube cut so it has a 5" face plus 2, 1.5" legs.

Replacement piece all cut out. Also my first shot at a circle...Close to round, but not quite. Practice will make perfect I hope.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4123.jpg

Replacement all welded in:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4124.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4125.jpg

Some of those welds were solid, but ugly. I'm starting to get better. I had a couple come out like this...Slowly getting better at upside down welding (also after I figured out that you have to rocket the gas pressure up to get clean welds, since CO2/Ar is heavier than air, welding upside down keeps gas from getting to the weld at the normal 20psi...35 works much better.

One of the better ones, I'd say all but about 4 welds turned out like this. Those 4 were before the gas revelation:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4128.jpg

And, after quite a bit of work, the finished product:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4129.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4131.jpg

I welded in that 1/4" thick replacement piece, then scab plated the bracket and brace with 3/16" plate. Then, I put two 3/16" gussets toward the back of the truck to help brace for the tension forces when the axle is in forward motion. I also added in a second brace going back to the horseshoe crossmember, a 1" square tube by 1/8" wall, and a 1/8" scab plate. This should add yet another counter force, which will get pulled on in tension, but just gives another surface to distribute the force.

Lastly, I decided to beef up the axle side mount too, mostly just because I could cut anything out I wanted with ease.

I took a piece of 3/16" plate, and sectioned it so it would fit inside the axle bracket. I then welded it in place, and, using a BFH, I massaged it around the axle and welded it to the tube. This, coupled with the gussets I already installed, should keep the axle side mount stationary as well:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4133.jpg

I then painted everything, and put it back together. All fixed and ready for some trails.

Uncle Ben
08-24-2009, 12:36 AM
Awesome Isaac! Now get out there and find the next weak link! ;) :beer:

AxleIke
08-24-2009, 08:29 AM
Awesome Isaac! Now get out there and find the next weak link! ;) :beer:

Well, hopefully there aren't too many more...I think things should hold together now.

Uncle Ben
08-24-2009, 08:33 AM
Well, hopefully there aren't too many more...I think things should hold together now.

:thumb::thumb: Holy Cross!!!

DaveInDenver
08-24-2009, 09:19 AM
Coolio Issac.

Man I need a welder.

AxleIke
08-24-2009, 10:18 AM
:thumb::thumb: Holy Cross!!!


Hopefully!

Coolio Issac.

Man I need a welder.

Thanks Dave!

AxleIke
08-24-2009, 10:29 AM
New irritating issue

My new interior is great and all, and I love the carpet, gives everything a finished look.

However, the smell is starting to really bug me. It STILL smells like carpet glue/new carpet after like 2 months. I've been letting it sit with the windows open as much as possible, and usually drive with the windows down.

Any suggestions on a deoderizor?

corsair23
08-24-2009, 11:28 AM
Any suggestions on a deoderizor?

Febreeze? I saw on TV where it works for that teenager's room so it should be able to handle your carpet :hill:

DaveInDenver
08-24-2009, 11:32 AM
Obviously it's still outgassing, probably the fire retardant they used. That stuff is nasty.

Never had the issue of new car plastic outgassing like that, our 4Runner was almost 3 years old when we got it. And my truck, yeah. Of course the Tuffy arm rest did outgas for a while I think. :-)

I would personally encourage the outgassing rather than cover it up with shampoo or something. It's still there and you're still breathing it in, even if it doesn't smell as much.

Probably be thinking along the lines of keeping the windows almost totally up in the sun to get the inside really hot and then run an air filter with some sort of carbon filter. Probably a fan to keep the air from settling inside.

My thinking would along the lines of rigging up something like this filter (http://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-17000-Permanent-QuietCare-Purifier/dp/B000050AQ5/ref=pd_sim_k_2):

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41QD1HKC2SL._SS400_.jpg

With a couple of these carbon pre-filters (http://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-38002-Enviracare-Replacement-Pre-Filter/dp/B000050H5N):

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/511876644FL._SS500_.jpg

nakman
08-24-2009, 11:37 AM
vomit, wet dogs, beer, fishing.. just some of the many ways to alter vehicle carpet smell. Let me know if you need more!!

And nice fab work, again! :bowdown:

DaveInDenver
08-24-2009, 11:38 AM
Febreeze? I saw on TV where it works for that teenager's room so it should be able to handle your carpet :hill:
FWIW, I use Febreeze on WilderNest fabrics that have a musty smell, usually from mold that gets started in the fabric when they are folded up wet and not dried out. The fabric itself can stink, but mostly it's the foam in the mattress and the fabric of the mattress cover, curtains, etc. Washing that stuff works OK but Febreeze and Lysol work much, much better to make the stink go away permanently.

AxleIke
08-24-2009, 11:57 AM
Febreeze? I saw on TV where it works for that teenager's room so it should be able to handle your carpet :hill:

:D:D Not a bad idea!

Obviously it's still outgassing, probably the fire retardant they used. That stuff is nasty.

Never had the issue of new car plastic outgassing like that, our 4Runner was almost 3 years old when we got it. And my truck, yeah. Of course the Tuffy arm rest did outgas for a while I think. :-)

I would personally encourage the outgassing rather than cover it up with shampoo or something. It's still there and you're still breathing it in, even if it doesn't smell as much.

Probably be thinking along the lines of keeping the windows almost totally up in the sun to get the inside really hot and then run an air filter with some sort of carbon filter. Probably a fan to keep the air from settling inside.

My thinking would along the lines of rigging up something like this filter (http://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-17000-Permanent-QuietCare-Purifier/dp/B000050AQ5/ref=pd_sim_k_2):

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41QD1HKC2SL._SS400_.jpg

With a couple of these carbon pre-filters (http://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-38002-Enviracare-Replacement-Pre-Filter/dp/B000050H5N):

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/511876644FL._SS500_.jpg

I thought about an idea like this briefly...The issue is, I don't have any of that stuff, and, since my whole interior cost me about 70 bucks, including lumber, I'm not going to spend a boat load on a filtration system.

If I can get my hands on something borrowed or for free, I'll go for it, but I'm not looking to spend big bucks.

vomit, wet dogs, beer, fishing.. just some of the many ways to alter vehicle carpet smell. Let me know if you need more!!

And nice fab work, again! :bowdown:

Thank you sir! And excellent suggestions! :beer::beer::lmao:

I'll have to try the beer/fishing...Hope to avoid the vomit/wet dog smell..Those don't seem pleasant!

AxleIke
08-24-2009, 12:03 PM
Forgot to add that the next fab installation will be to move the lower link mounts down on the axle tube. They are currently sitting above the centerline, which adds considerable pressure to the upper link. They used to be just slightly below the centerline, but, when I rotated the axle upward to get my pinion set properly, they moved up too high.

Moving them down should give a slightly better ride too, although it will shoot my anti-squat numbers, so I'll have to re-calculate everything and move the upper accordingly. Good thing its adjustable!

And, since I can take them off easy breezy now, why not? :D

DaveInDenver
08-24-2009, 12:05 PM
I thought about an idea like this briefly...The issue is, I don't have any of that stuff, and, since my whole interior cost me about 70 bucks, including lumber, I'm not going to spend a boat load on a filtration system.
Yeah, I dig that. You'll not be surprised to hear that I don't have any of that stuff to lend out...

OTOH, maybe rent a carpet steamer and give it a good cleaning? Might just be that simple and usually the most obvious answer is the right one.

Uncle Ben
08-24-2009, 12:34 PM
:D:D Not a bad idea!


I'll have to try the beer/fishing...Hope to avoid the vomit/wet dog smell..Those don't seem pleasant!

Just avoid taking Natalie on any shelf road/big rock trails and you should be OK! :eek: :lmao::lmao:

AxleIke
08-24-2009, 12:39 PM
Yeah, I dig that. You'll not be surprised to hear that I don't have any of that stuff to lend out...

OTOH, maybe rent a carpet steamer and give it a good cleaning? Might just be that simple and usually the most obvious answer is the right one.

I think that might be the ticket for the first go around! If that doesn't work, I can start looking into more drastic measures!

Just avoid taking Natalie on any shelf road/big rock trails and you should be OK! :eek: :lmao::lmao:

BTDT, Lesson learned. She either gets out now, or just doesn't go! LOL

Uncle Ben
08-24-2009, 12:55 PM
I think that might be the ticket for the first go around! If that doesn't work, I can start looking into more drastic measures!



BTDT, Lesson learned. She either gets out now, or just doesn't go! LOL

I have heard that if you dump milk on the carpet it will hide many other odors!

corsair23
08-24-2009, 01:08 PM
I have heard that if you dump milk on the carpet it will hide many other odors!

Is that along the lines of if you have a pain in your leg and do this :banghead: then the pain in your leg will go away? :D

Uncle Ben
08-24-2009, 01:11 PM
Is that along the lines of if you have a pain in your leg and do this :banghead: then the pain in your leg will go away? :D

Yessir! Werks well disinit?

DaveInDenver
08-24-2009, 01:19 PM
I have heard that if you dump milk on the carpet it will hide many other odors!
Also can verify that horse poop on your boots makes the smell of spilled gasoline in the carpet no longer as strong.

AxleIke
08-24-2009, 05:14 PM
I'll try heating it up really good the next hot day we have. Then try a steam clean. We'll see if that helps it at all.

What doesn't help is that my windows are all tinted at 15%. Not going to get as hot as it could.

Jacket
08-24-2009, 08:17 PM
Looks stout! Glad to see you back in business.

As for the carpet, hmmmm. Maybe some deodorizer or Arm and Hammer plus a steam vac?

Rezarf
08-24-2009, 11:16 PM
Take the top off... problem solved.

:D

Looks good man, nice to see you back on the road... urr uhh, trail.

AxleIke
08-27-2009, 02:09 PM
Yanked the rear diff last night.

It was time for an oil change and I wanted to see how the new pattern was wearing. The oil was quite dirty, which I expected, because I knew I couldn't get ALL the metal dust out of the housing from the work I did.

Bummer deal was that the copper line got nicked by the ring gear. :( It still held pressure just fine, but, since I have the diff out in a bucket, I figured, what the heck? Got a new one coming next day air from ARB. Time to pick up a miniature tubing cutter from the store, and get my new line trimmed out.

Next I'll be changing out my tranny/tcase oil to attempt to locate my extremely annoying whining noise. We'll see if an oil change does the trick, or whether a tcase tear down is in my future.

The other possibility is a tranny input bearing. This is certainly possible, as it has almost 300k on it. In that case, I'll be looking at a marlin rebuild kit, which wouldn't be the worst in the world, since my syncros are shot in 1st and 2nd, and it'd give me an excuse to buy a press :D

However, after the oil change, its time for some trails!

AxleIke
09-08-2009, 10:37 AM
Ran another test run this past weekend to shake down the new repair.

This time, things went a little better. The flat belly is awesome. It just slides over stuff. It will take some practice, as, it seems new techniques will be needed. In the past, I've gone 10.7 up stuff, and, if it bottomed out, I'd just back off and try another line.

Yesterday, however, I found that, I'd bottom out, and not be able to go anywhere in 10.7. But, by backing up about 6", and shifting to 4.7, I was able to bump it, and crawl right up.

A couple pics:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4136.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4138.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4139.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4141.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4146.jpg

Uncle Ben
09-08-2009, 11:16 AM
Doood......Your truck is very impressive but even with the tremendous efforts you have put into it it still looks like a 4Runner....sorry..... :D:p: :bolt:

AxleIke
09-08-2009, 11:30 AM
Doood......Your truck is very impressive but even with the tremendous efforts you have put into it it still looks like a 4Runner....sorry..... :D:p: :bolt:

Well, only the best for me....I wouldn't want to settle for a Land Cruiser or anything. :D :D :D :D :D

Uncle Ben
09-08-2009, 11:38 AM
Well, only the best for me....I wouldn't want to settle for a Land Cruiser or anything. :D :D :D :D :D

You shouldn't put yourself down like that....you really are a good person and should have higher self esteem than that!

AxleIke
09-08-2009, 12:06 PM
You shouldn't put Land Cruiser Owners down like that....you really are a good person and should have higher self control than that!

Fixed it for ya! :D :D :D

Uncle Ben
09-08-2009, 12:12 PM
Fixed it for ya! :D :D :D

Ya can't fix what ain't broke....silly boy! Get that thin Runner Iron replaced with Cruiser quality iron yet?

AxleIke
09-08-2009, 12:13 PM
Ya can't fix what ain't broke....silly boy! Get that thin Runner Iron replaced with Cruiser quality iron yet?

Nope. Went stronger than Cruiser Iron. I did do some rough sketching and measuring for my rear tube fenders though. LOTS of rubbing on the trail yesterday.

Uncle Ben
09-08-2009, 12:15 PM
Nope. Went stronger than Cruiser Iron. I did do some rough sketching and measuring for my rear tube fenders though. LOTS of rubbing on the trail yesterday.

Rubbing is not a problem just the tires self clearancing! Carry on.... ;) :lmao::lmao:

AxleIke
09-08-2009, 12:22 PM
Lol!!!!

ElliottB
09-08-2009, 04:17 PM
New irritating issue

My new interior is great and all, and I love the carpet, gives everything a finished look.

However, the smell is starting to really bug me. It STILL smells like carpet glue/new carpet after like 2 months. I've been letting it sit with the windows open as much as possible, and usually drive with the windows down.

Any suggestions on a deoderizor?

Mine does too. I think it is coupled with the neoprene seat covers. Either way, it gives it that new car smell. :D

AxleIke
12-12-2009, 09:58 PM
Started working on clearing the new tires today...WOW. They hit a lot of stuff.

The most obvious was the fenders themselves, at the back.

So, I got to trimming:

I started with a sawzall to make a clean cut without messing up the paint too much:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_1038.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_1037.jpg

Then I got out the plasma and took off the pinch weld only, and then pounded the two halves of the inner fender together. I pounded the inner most part of the fender back first, and then pounded the outter part over that, which makes about a 3/4" overlap. Also took out the lower part of the rocker weld there, and pounded the lower section of the fender back in a bit too:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_1039.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_1041.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_1040.jpg

I then cleaned everything reall well, etch-primered everything, and when that was dry I put in a bunch of 3M Autobody seam sealant. This stuff worked really well on my tranny tunnel, and I like it a lot.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_1049.jpg

I did the same on the passenger side, but only took a shot of the finished product because I was pushing to get it done so the sealant could set up over night so that I can put the undercoating on it tommorow.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_1050.jpg

Tomorrow I'm going to work on the upper A-arms, which rub at full droop only.

And, to boot, my idler, which I put brand new bushings into just a few weeks ago, and haven't wheeled on at all, is now REALLY shot again. My new steering set up is going to be my very next project.

DaveInDenver
12-12-2009, 10:14 PM
Can remember, was your pinch seam already clearanced for the 33" tires? Mine looks a lot like yours minus the primo 3M filler and a little less hammer work. I trimmed the seam with an angle grinder a little IIRC before going to the ball peen.

AxleIke
12-12-2009, 11:41 PM
Yes, clearanced for the 33's, but they still rubbed at full stuff. I only pounded the seam flat with a hammer. I actually had to spend some time to bend the seam back out first, so I could cut it down. Didn't want to light the interior on fire.

Bummer part, though I knew it was going to happen, is that the computer no longer fits. Since I'm building up that new sound system for the truck, I'll relocate the computer into the spot where the radio currently is.

DaveInDenver
12-13-2009, 06:53 AM
Oh, I got it, with 35"+ tires that the fender inner skirt has to be cut more. I do remember Spanky's truck is the same way. Is the harness long enough to move it ECU very far?

Uncle Ben
12-13-2009, 09:37 AM
Nice! Be ready for 44's soon! ;) :thumb:

AxleIke
12-13-2009, 10:54 AM
Oh, I got it, with 35"+ tires that the fender inner skirt has to be cut more. I do remember Spanky's truck is the same way. Is the harness long enough to move it ECU very far?

No. I will have to do a lot of soldering when I move the ECU.

Nice! Be ready for 44's soon! ;) :thumb:

No. This is probably more than I should put on these axles. I'm going to try it, and see. If I end up going back to 33's, I'm not out any money.

RockRunner
12-13-2009, 04:10 PM
Isaac, you can put the ECU behind the glove box or in it even, I need to cut my corners too and plan on keeping it close to stock location so I don't have to cut the harness.

AxleIke
12-14-2009, 12:33 AM
Finished up all 4 fenders today and one a-arm.

Didn't get pics of the rear.

First thing I did was undercoat:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_1051.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_1052.jpg

Then I cut out the back part of my rear fenders so that they match up with my bumpers, and seam sealed them. I'm going to to more work to them at a later date, just didn't want them to tear up the tires.

Then I went to work on the a-arm. I was a bit pressed for time, so I only got the driver side done, because I wanted to take my time and make sure it was beefed in.

For starters, a quick shot of the arm after I cut off the lip, so I could accurately see where it was rubbing:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_1042.jpg

When I finished with the plasma, and checked for tire fitment, It looked like this:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_1053.jpg

From there, I was busy cutting and fitting, and forgot to grab more pictures. I used 1/4" plate to fill in the sides, and 3/16" around the front area, and a piece of 1/8" across the gap. I used these various thicknesses, because the front area was where most of the rubbing occured, and a test fit of the tire with 1/4" up there still rubbed. Its plenty strong, just not overkill, though, I'm finding that overkill is almost never a bad thing in wheeling. But, its what was going to work.

I also had to significantly modify my ball joint spacer. Not really a big deal because the bolt surfaces are between balljoint and the a-arm, and I left plenty of material to maintain the integrity of the spacer.

Here is a shot after partial "cutting".

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_1045.jpg
Here is the smooth ground finished product:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_1054.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_1055.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_1057.jpg

And after primer and paint:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_1058.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_1059.jpg

I checked before putting everything back on the ground, and it rubs the top of the rearward allen bolt on the ball joint spacer. I'm going to see if I can find a hex head to go there, and it should be rub free!

Red_Chili
12-14-2009, 08:35 AM
Y'know... with all the hours you got in making IFS and very little lift work... you could pick up a pizza delivery job, spend less time, and finance a solid axle swap! Put the axle where you need to.

Admittedly pizza delivery does not engage the creative lobe nearly as much though. It is the journey, not the destination... I get that.

AxleIke
12-14-2009, 08:54 AM
Ya know Bill, about 3/4's of the way through that arm yesterday, the VERY same thought occurred to me, as I was frustratedly trying to make a piece fit that I'd cut just a hair too large.

I've already started squirreling some money away to finance the swap. This stuff is just to occupy my free time until I've got enough cash. I'm getting a bit fed up with a few of the IFS quirks, to say the least.

RockRunner
12-14-2009, 09:02 AM
. This stuff is just to occupy my free time until I've got enough cash. .

Free time??? Cash:eek::eek: What are these things you speak of young Jedi:rolleyes:

Red_Chili
12-14-2009, 09:10 AM
The Red Chili Crystal Ball sez that with economic recovery and a plum engineering job, the following will be future AxleIke thread titles:
1) For Sale: 35" ATs, 3/4 tread left
2) Door mod for front tire clearance
3) Rear tires hit topper at full stuff
4) Lowering driveline for center of gravity and better angles with lift
5) Fitting a LT1 V8 into Baby Beast
6) Name seems silly now, need new truck name

And... the future AxleIke sig line:
87 4Runner- Baby Beast-Now on 44's

AxleIke
12-14-2009, 10:48 AM
LOL. No, I don't think 44's are in the future. I don't have the cash for a tow rig and trailer, and I certainly don't have the cash to fund the kind of parts that those tires require.

Uncle Ben
12-14-2009, 11:20 AM
LOL. No, I don't think 44's are in the future. I don't have the cash for a tow rig and trailer, and I certainly don't have the cash to fund the kind of parts that those tires require.

Famous last words! 44's on your rig would be cool! Be able to flip over and still keep moving! :lmao::lmao: http://www.nitroxrcworld.com/images/ricochet_hdr.jpg

DaveInDenver
12-14-2009, 12:36 PM
The Red Chili Crystal Ball sez that with economic recovery and a plum engineering job, the following will be future AxleIke thread titles:
1) For Sale: 35" ATs, 3/4 tread left
2) Door mod for front tire clearance
3) Rear tires hit topper at full stuff
4) Lowering driveline for center of gravity and better angles with lift
5) Fitting a LT1 V8 into Baby Beast
6) Name seems silly now, need new truck name
Hmmmm, LT1 + 44 /= 8" axles...

And... the future AxleIke sig line:
87 4Runner- Baby Beast-Now on 44's
I'm thinking we'll see the sig say:

Baby Beast - At least it's a 4Runner VIN on the frame.

AxleIke
12-14-2009, 12:54 PM
LOL!

Hey now, compared to some other rigs, mine is still pretty stock. I realize I'm just polishing a turd here, but its been a fun process for the most part.

Some day I'll join the ranks of the masses, just going to be a while yet.

Red_Chili
12-14-2009, 01:03 PM
You keep qualifying the future with the limitations of the past!

You forgot the 'plum job' and 'economic recovery' base assumptions. You know you got lotsa blue sky there d00d.

DaveInDenver
12-14-2009, 01:11 PM
Hey now, compared to some other rigs, mine is still pretty stock. I realize I'm just polishing a turd here
I guess I can't say much, being that I'm going the other route and dismantling mine. There was once when we could say with pride that we're 'wheeling IFS on 33". But alas there really is a reason that solid axles are common. Shrug, you want to play with the big dogs and I just want my dog not to cower in fear of trying to get in and out of our truck. So it's up you go and down for me.

AxleIke
12-14-2009, 01:59 PM
Eh, I wouldn't say I'm going to play with the big dogs. I just like tinkering and finding different ways to do stuff. Most of the time, I usually find the wrong way to do things. The big dogs wouldn't let me play anyways, and I'm not ready to beat up the sheetmetal yet. I'm working on getting it to the point that I can paint it and have it look nice again.

For me, at least for now, its 35's to see if they work. If not, then it's back to 33's. I've always known that the ultimate fix is a solid axle, but I like the challenge of driving the IFS, and it's got enough crap in it to still be fun.

If I wanted to go the normal way, I'd have gotten some wheels with more back spacing and solid axle swapped it. Instead I'm modifying the IFS to work with the wheels I like and the stock suspension.

RockRunner
12-16-2009, 09:42 PM
Isaac,
How high does your tank stick out in the back? I would really like to keep the rear as flat as possible for the dogs you know;) I am going to be changing out the tanks after Xmas and see what I can do to make if fit under there without raining the floor to much.

Any information you can give me would be great, things you would do different or things to avoid.

TIA Tom :thumb:

AxleIke
12-16-2009, 10:12 PM
It sticks up about 4". My recommendation is to put a plywood deck over the top, like I did, and use the rest of the space around the tank for storage for tools and parts. Nice flat spot for your dogs, and/or gear. Tools and parts are hidden out of sight, and secure.

You will have to remove the rear xmember, and replace it with one farther back.

Things I would do different, and that I'm redoing:

Stainless lines for the high pressure line.

recess the filler neck, instead of having it stick out.

Put in the snow mobile pickups for constant fuel delivery at all angles.

RockRunner
12-16-2009, 11:27 PM
Cool, 4" isn't to bad but it will put the fridge way up there. I guess I will have to get a slide then.

How much room do you have on the sides, L/R? Looks like there is about 10" from the tailgate to the edge of the tank. Definitely something I have to look into.

What do you think the cost in parts was? If you where to get the SS lines and Snow mobile pick ups, never heard of that before.

AxleIke
12-17-2009, 08:44 AM
I put mine in so the raised side was to the passenger side. So, on the driver side, with my plywood deck, I have enough room for the spare. Might be enough for your fridge. You are welcome to check it out.

The snow mobile pickups are these

http://autoperformanceengineering.com/html/pickups.html

26 each. I'd probably run two, one at each end of the tank.

The SS lines are up to you. You can also just run normal metal lines. I'm running soft lines right now, and, while it works fine, its too hokey for me. I prefer to have stuff as bombproof as possible. I'm only going SS because I got some for free from a friend. they came with -3AN fittings on em, and are pretty trick.

SS lines are going to run some more coin. I'd bet you could do metal lines for 20-30 bucks.

Other than that, It cost me maybe 20 bucks in sheet metal and .5" square tube to build the tank cover in the back, a few bucks for a couple of bolts to hold the tank up (drilled/made brackets for the tank to mount to some brackets I welded onto the frame rail).

I'm not recalling off the top of my head, but I spent maybe 20 bucks for a 1 foot section of 2" fuel line for the filler neck, and used exhuast tubing welded up for the main parts of the fill tube. The soft 2" tube was for connecting to the tank, and for connecting several of the pieces of exhuast tubing together. I welded up most of the filler tube, and then filled it with water and let it sit suspended over some newspaper overnight to see if it leaked. It didn't.

Few dollars for the associated hose clamps.

All in all, I'd think you could do this whole project for under 200 bucks (not including a new tank, not sure what that will run you).

RockRunner
12-17-2009, 10:11 AM
Not to bad of a deal. I have a second tank already so it should be pretty easy to do. The other tank I got was perfect with all the stuff for $30 can't beat that.

I need to check your rig out one of these days, not when it is -10* out. I like what you did with your tranny and tcase, you did not lift the engine did you? I could use a flat belly myself that way I don't have to go bigger right away.

Are you ever on the south side? If so give me a ring and we can hook up for a beer or ........

I am sure I have more questions but that is it for now.

AxleIke
12-17-2009, 10:34 AM
Here are the shots of the new tires:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4169.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4170.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4171.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4172.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4174.jpg

Rear fender passenger side:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4175.jpg

Passenger front:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4176.jpg

Also, ignore the stance of the front bumper. I have to fix that :(

AxleIke
12-17-2009, 03:52 PM
For those that are interested.

Clearance numbers:

19 3/4" to the lowest point of the belly pan. 20" at highest. Frame is 20 front-21" back (slopes up and to the back).

Front xmember/skid: 12"

Rear diff: 11 3/4"

nakman
12-17-2009, 04:15 PM
Oh yeah! You can't go back to 33's now, just look at that thing. :bowdown:

AxleIke
12-17-2009, 04:19 PM
Oh yeah! You can't go back to 33's now, just look at that thing. :bowdown:

LOL! Thanks Tim! I like them a lot. I'm hoping that with some mods to the steering, (FJ-80 rod ends and a few others) I won't break things on the trail.

RockRunner
12-17-2009, 04:49 PM
Looking good, plenty of clearance for some good crawling. You going on the snow run?

LARGEONE
12-17-2009, 04:53 PM
It looks great with the new tires! Any rubbing in the rear?

AxleIke
12-17-2009, 05:33 PM
It looks great with the new tires! Any rubbing in the rear?

Not that I've been able to produce. Wheeling with be the ultimate test. I haven't been able to find anything to flex it on good enough to fully flex the suspension. I've jacked up the truck on the rear until the other tire comes off the ground, but that doesn't accout for leveraging offroad. I'm thinking it might rub just a hair in a few situations.

AxleIke
12-17-2009, 05:35 PM
Looking good, plenty of clearance for some good crawling. You going on the snow run?

Dunno. Might ride a long with someone. Rear axle needs work before too much offroading is going to get done: ie new wheel bearings, and some more welding.

Rezarf
12-17-2009, 08:16 PM
I dig 'em! They are way better than your old...

AxleIke
06-13-2010, 11:28 PM
The saga continues.

Took the axle off again to brace more, and drop the lowers down a bit to gain better axle side separation.

When going to mock everything up, I found that my upper link (which has one side adjustable) had frozen. Essentially, the Johnny Joint had rusted to the link insert and I couldn't budge it.

After heating with the oxy/acetylene torch, and using a 20" pipe wrench with another 36" of high lift jack handle to make it budge, 40 minutes later, I got it off, with severely messed up threads (flattened).

However, upon further looking it looks like the joint can be salvaged, via a die chased down. The same could be said for the threaded tube insert in the link itself, except that a 1-14 die costs about 25 dollars, and a 1-14 tap costs between 75 and 100.

So, I will be purchasing another insert ($14), cutting the old one out, and re making my upper link. Then I'll chase the johnny joint with a die and hopefully get an adjustable link back.

Anyway, further modifications have included adding a total chaos idler arm, and still to come are FJ-80 rod ends with DOM adjusters.

Rezarf
06-14-2010, 12:29 AM
Sorry to hear your troubles Isaac. On the bright side, a few more Landcruiser parts should do the trick! :D

Uncle Ben
06-14-2010, 08:33 AM
Sorry man....I can hear your disappointment in your typing. Like I said before, it's better to find and solve problems at home than on the trail! It will be kick butt very soon....get-r-done!

AxleIke
06-14-2010, 10:05 AM
Eh, I'm doing okay. I found the bright side: I didn't bring up the stuff to install a fill/inspection hole in the top of the housing. Now I can put that in. I also brought the axles back down so I can replace the bearings. Also good.

My main disappointment is that a part that is barely a year old can get this screwed up.

Lesson learned: ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS put a good coating of antisieze on anything that sees road salt. Always.

AxleIke
06-21-2010, 01:17 PM
Finished up the axle this weekend. Added some braces, plenty of anti sieze, and a fill plug in the top of the diff so I can fill the axle through something other than the Breather.

Still need to replace the rear wheel bearings, and upgrade the tie rods. Should be good to go in a week or two.