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View Full Version : ideas welcome - diff drain plug


nakman
07-08-2009, 08:03 AM
I sure don't remember hitting anything major with the diff, but somehow I've got some burrs bent over far enough that I can't get my skinniest of 24mm sockets in there to drain the gear oil. I tried to open up the clearance with a dremel, but that dremel didn't seem to have any impact on the diff housing.. so what other options are out there?

- grind down a 24mm until it's skinny enough to fit?
- have someone weld me a something to the bolt that I can grab with a wrench?
- pull the third and drain it Jeep style?

Remember this is an 80 so no inspection cover.. any other ideas? Silly ones are welcome too if you don't know and still want to play. :D

MDH33
07-08-2009, 08:11 AM
sacrificial socket and BFH. :hill:

nuclearlemon
07-08-2009, 08:13 AM
knock around the edges with a chisel. mine was like that too and it was soft enough to pop right off with the chisel.

Uncle Ben
07-08-2009, 08:13 AM
I sure don't remember hitting anything major with the diff, but somehow I've got some burrs bent over far enough that I can't get my skinniest of 24mm sockets in there to drain the gear oil. I tried to open up the clearance with a dremel, but that dremel didn't seem to have any impact on the diff housing.. so what other options are out there?

- grind down a 24mm until it's skinny enough to fit?
- have someone weld me a something to the bolt that I can grab with a wrench?
- pull the third and drain it Jeep style?

Remember this is an 80 so no inspection cover.. any other ideas? Silly ones are welcome too if you don't know and still want to play. :D



Usually, you can drive the socket on the plug with a BFH. If that doesn't work I take a small flat chisel and clean the shaved metal away from the plug. Replace the plug with a newer style 10mm hex so the next time the plug will clear it's own path.

JadeRunner
07-08-2009, 08:18 AM
I have had a history of diff plug issues including that issue early on. I was able to use a hand file and chisel to clean up the plug and housing enough to get it off with a socket.

Then I moved to the plug with the allen head. Still had issues after wheeling. So I had Chili weld on another protection ring which had been ground down to plug level. He also welded a plate to the bottom of the diff housing for added protection. A permanent fix finally.

nakman
07-08-2009, 08:21 AM
I was able to drain the front by smacking the socket with a hammer, but it won't go in back. I'll try the chisel approach next, thanks folks! :cheers:



edit: :kevin: I've got hex bolts in the fillers, iirc they are from a Camry. But the big ones with the magnets are still stock obviously. So they sell hex bolts with magnets? what are they from?

ATLR
07-08-2009, 08:30 AM
Bring it to me I will use a air hammer, you will have to stop and get a new plug but I can get off.

JadeRunner
07-08-2009, 08:43 AM
This is the part # I user for my Runner, not sure if will work for your 80. I can be hard for the parts dept. to figure out which part it is. It is magnetic I'm pretty sure.

Drain plug w\allen head. 90341-18021

DaveInDenver
07-08-2009, 08:46 AM
So they sell hex bolts with magnets? what are they from?
Yes, there are both types. Jerry at Burt has both types and Marlin sells the ones with magnets (he put magnetic ones in both drain and fill on my transfer). When I replaced them on my truck Jerry didn't look it up by application, he just handed over a bag with both types. So I suspect it's a universal thing among all the 18mm drain plugs.

Jacket
07-08-2009, 09:03 AM
This is the part # I user for my Runner, not sure if will work for your 80. I can be hard for the parts dept. to figure out which part it is. It is magnetic I'm pretty sure.

Drain plug w\allen head. 90341-18021

Thanks Scott. So is it a pretty good bet that this part will replace all Toyota 24mm diff bolts? I guess for a couple of bucks I can just buy them and find out....

DaveInDenver
07-08-2009, 09:15 AM
Thanks Scott. So is it a pretty good bet that this part will replace all Toyota 24mm diff bolts? I guess for a couple of bucks I can just buy them and find out....
I used the same plugs on my FR and RR diffs, transfer case and transmission (although not all were magnetic for fill). The difference is the washer you use. There are two, one for aluminum and another for steel.

I use:
12157-10010 (for steel)
90430-18008 (for aluminum)

nakman
07-08-2009, 09:15 AM
Alright I will swing by my local parts counter and grab a couple of those.. the front may have to wait until next time though. :rolleyes:

And ATLR, thanks for the offer man I'll let you know if I can't get it with the chisel! :cheers:





edit: Oh, and I have a tendency to just reuse those washers too :o, even on the oil pan :eek: Yes I'm sure there's a special place in hell for me right next to the guys who use electrical tape instead of shrink tubing...

but hey if I'm going to spring for new bolts here I may as well pop for new washers.

ElliottB
07-08-2009, 09:38 AM
Get your rig on a rotisserie, flip it upside down, and drain the fluid out the top of the breather. This is probably the easiest way. :D

nakman
07-08-2009, 09:44 AM
Get your rig on a rotisserie, flip it upside down, and drain the fluid out the top of the breather. This is probably the easiest way. :D

That's a good one. I was also considering just winching up a tree, remember The Gods Must be Crazy? Then drain out the fill hole.. :lmao:

Jacket
07-08-2009, 10:15 AM
edit: Oh, and I have a tendency to just reuse those washers too :o, even on the oil pan :eek: Yes I'm sure there's a special place in hell for me right next to the guys who use electrical tape instead of shrink tubing...


If the plug doesn't leak, then you're just $1 richer than the rest of us.

subzali
07-08-2009, 10:33 AM
A chisel and file should take care of the axle housing just fine. Worked for me. When doing a trail fix (we were popping the front diff off to replace the rear diff when I broke my rear pinion) we unbolted the 3rd member from the housing and drained it that way. It wasn't too awful messy, but it probably won't seal again until you clean up the sealing surface and put a new gasket on. But then to do that you also have to pull the front axles out.

DaveInDenver
07-08-2009, 10:58 AM
Oh, and I have a tendency to just reuse those washers too :o, even on the oil pan
If it doesn't leak, there you go. For me it's obvious the difference, the gasket crushes and you feel that, keeps me from overtightening. I use a new gasket on the oil pan, too. No need to tempt the Stripped Pan Gods too much (just make it snug, it swells with oil!).

AxleIke
07-08-2009, 11:13 AM
You can always go with the permanent drain plug fix: Shave it :D

nuclearlemon
07-08-2009, 01:26 PM
i run magnet style in both fill and drain, keeps it simpler. i rarely replace the gasket...only when they start to leak;)

Red_Chili
07-08-2009, 02:04 PM
Plasma cutter. Simple. :bolt:

Uncle Ben
07-08-2009, 02:15 PM
i run magnet style in both fill and drain, keeps it simpler. i rarely replace the gasket...only when they start to leak;)

Ditto! I buy oil filters by the case and I get 6 oil plug gaskets at the same time and tape a seal to every other filter box.

Uncle Ben
07-08-2009, 02:16 PM
Plasma cutter. Simple. :bolt:

Now we know what took out your last ring gear! :lmao::lmao::lmao::lmao::p:

nakman
07-08-2009, 09:53 PM
Hey, that chisel was the shizzle! :hill: In fact it ended up being the tool that loosened the drain bolt. Not the prettiest job in the world, but effective.. was tempting to just leave that 24 slammed in there... :rolleyes:


Pics should tell the story... thanks again folks. :beer2:

MDH33
07-08-2009, 10:14 PM
Awesome! :thumb:

You got me thinking about oil, so I did a change of the minitruck lube in about 20 minutes today. I love working on that 1st Gen. :)

Also stopped at Stevinson and picked up a couple of large 2F filters for the 'Cruisers. :thumb: :beer:

subzali
07-09-2009, 07:48 AM
Hey, that chisel was the shizzle! :hill: In fact it ended up being the tool that loosened the drain bolt. Not the prettiest job in the world, but effective.. was tempting to just leave that 24 slammed in there... :rolleyes:


Pics should tell the story... thanks again folks. :beer2:

Dude your lube is defying gravity! :p:

Martin, what is the Toyota part number for the large 2F filters?

JadeRunner
07-09-2009, 08:06 AM
You protection ring is ground down like mine was. Your gonna keep having problems until you weld another ring on there.

Hulk
07-09-2009, 09:13 AM
Martin, what is the Toyota part number for the large 2F filters?

I thought the big ones were discontinued. I bought all that was left on the shelf (2) from John Elway Toyota a few years back. They sold them to me at cost -- just wanted to get rid of them.

nakman
07-09-2009, 09:58 AM
You protection ring is ground down like mine was. Your gonna keep having problems until you weld another ring on there.

Yeah but if I get the allen head it will just self-clearance on the way out, right? Unless I really bugger it up again.. :o

wesintl
07-09-2009, 10:25 AM
I thought the big ones were discontinued. I bought all that was left on the shelf (2) from John Elway Toyota a few years back. They sold them to me at cost -- just wanted to get rid of them.

no you can still get em. Burt has em. I think I prefer the small ones now adays though.

JadeRunner
07-09-2009, 10:49 AM
Yeah but if I get the allen head it will just self-clearance on the way out, right? Unless I really bugger it up again.. :o

You will be able to get it out with the allen head, so that problem will be fixed. But, it will grind down on the rocks more and work sideways and strip out on the trail. It happened to me several times (and Chili on Chinamans-he lost his fluid) until we beefed up the protection ring.

nakman
07-09-2009, 10:55 AM
I think I prefer the small ones now adays though.

The last 2F I changed I used one of the infamous 90915-20004 filters, as was recommended by that parts guy at American Toyota.. some would argue the smaller filter is vastly superior, I know that's what goes on the 80 fwiw.. if nothing else they're easier to maneuver around the plug wires.

Hey it's like two threads in one! :blah:

Rzeppa
07-09-2009, 05:53 PM
I've always used a dremel, and it's always worked. What kind of bit were you using? I always use the thin cutoff wheel.

nakman
07-10-2009, 07:56 AM
I was using one of the little blue pear-shaped grinders... I didn't think the thin sandpaper wheels would have done much with the steel, so didn't even try it. :confused:

Also I picked up my new state of the art, self-clearancing, leak proof, magnetic allen bolts yesterday. :)

Red_Chili
07-10-2009, 12:15 PM
You will be able to get it out with the allen head, so that problem will be fixed. But, it will grind down on the rocks more and work sideways and strip out on the trail. It happened to me several times (and Chili on Chinamans-he lost his fluid) until we beefed up the protection ring.
Yeppers. The allen is just as vulnerable as the hex, just somewhat easier to get out (unless you REALLY buggered it).

You need a CHILI RING. Hoooah. You know you want one.

It was Chinaman's that inspired it.

Red_Chili
07-10-2009, 12:19 PM
Now we know what took out your last ring gear! :lmao::lmao::lmao::lmao::p:

Actually the ring gear ain't bad. Thought about polishing it up and putting it on a Jeep board for sale.

And half the pinion is just fine!

Rzeppa
07-10-2009, 05:33 PM
I was using one of the little blue pear-shaped grinders... I didn't think the thin sandpaper wheels would have done much with the steel, so didn't even try it. :confused:

Then that was the problem. Those little things don't do much. What I use with good success is the little cutoff wheels. Not sandpaper, just a miniature version of a thin grinding wheel, like a miniature chop saw.

corsair23
07-10-2009, 06:08 PM
Then that was the problem. Those little things don't do much. What I use with good success is the little cutoff wheels. Not sandpaper, just a miniature version of a thin grinding wheel, like a miniature chop saw.

You mean the ones that tend to self-destruct pretty regularly :eek: - Obviously using eye protection goes without saying but definitely when using those buggers!!

Rzeppa
07-13-2009, 05:49 PM
You mean the ones that tend to self-destruct pretty regularly :eek: - Obviously using eye protection goes without saying but definitely when using those buggers!!

They can self-destruct pretty quick if you're not careful, and even then they do when you are.

I always wear eye protection both when working with power tools and also with chemicals.

I buy the little cutoff wheels in 100 lots. Most recent project was to score some ceramic tile in the bathroom to install a new light fixture. Went through about 3 wheels in about 20" of tile, not bad. None of them self-destructed, just carbide versus ceramic.

Shark Bait
07-14-2009, 09:07 PM
Yeppers. The allen is just as vulnerable as the hex, just somewhat easier to get out (unless you REALLY buggered it).

You need a CHILI RING. Hoooah. You know you want one.

It was Chinaman's that inspired it.


OK. I'll bite. How do I put a replacement ring on my front diff? :D

Shark Bait
07-16-2009, 11:25 PM
Anyone? Replacing the diff ring? :confused:

Red_Chili
07-17-2009, 12:10 PM
Sorry Chris! Didn't see it.
C'mon by sometime and you can grind things flat, and I will cut a sliver of thick-walled DOM and weld it right on for ya.

Shark Bait
07-18-2009, 12:24 PM
Sorry Chris! Didn't see it.
C'mon by sometime and you can grind things flat, and I will cut a sliver of thick-walled DOM and weld it right on for ya.

Cool. Thanks Bill! :)

Jacket
11-09-2009, 10:59 AM
Go figure - I stripped the drain plug on my Tacoma front diff yesterday - and it already has a 10mm allen head plug from the factory.:rolleyes: So much for those being the "better alternative" to a 24 hex head bolt....

Couple things:

1. The 10mm allen head magnetic plug, part #: 90341-18021 fits fine in the Tacoma rear axle. :thumb:
2. For you guys that have made the switch to 10mm allen, did you put one of these in the fill plug as well? It fits fine in my diff, but I wondered if there would be any reason not to put a magnetic plug up there?
3. Is there a non-magnetic option?

corsair23
11-09-2009, 11:16 AM
Couple things:

1. The 10mm allen head magnetic plug, part #: 90341-18021 fits fine in the Tacoma rear axle. :thumb:
2. For you guys that have made the switch to 10mm allen, did you put one of these in the fill plug as well? It fits fine in my diff, but I wondered if there would be any reason not to put a magnetic plug up there?
3. Is there a non-magnetic option?

2. Yes
3. Yes

As part of my axle service and gear swap I went with the "new" allen head plugs...The drain plugs are magnetic while the fill ones were not. Not sure what, if any, value there would be in putting a magnetic one in the fill spot as well :confused:

Not sure of the part #s or if they are the same # for an 80 and Taco but I could look up the number on my receipts if you'd like. Now I have 4 spare old school plugs should anyone ever need one in an emergency.

leiniesred
11-09-2009, 11:19 AM
I just welded my drain plugs in. Took off the copper washer, cranked the plug in and went to town. My protection rings were ground off long ago. The weld bead is a lot harder than the bolt or the ring. I haven't ground through it yet.

Welded the nut to the lowest stud and crank that out to drain (most) of the oil.

Jacket
11-09-2009, 12:41 PM
Not sure of the part #s or if they are the same # for an 80 and Taco but I could look up the number on my receipts if you'd like. Now I have 4 spare old school plugs should anyone ever need one in an emergency.

Thanks Jeff. I don't think the PN I have is for a Tacoma - in fact, the research I've done indicates it's a special order part so I don't know what axle it's supposed to go with. But since most Toyota axles seem to use the same thread size for the diffs, I guess it works.

I'll ask Jerry for the non-magnetic option and see if he can locate it, but if you stumble upon the PN feel free to post it up.

nakman
11-09-2009, 12:57 PM
I run the magnet ones everywhere, top and bottom. Not that much other than a little black sludge ever collects on the top one. :confused:

corsair23
11-09-2009, 11:04 PM
I'll ask Jerry for the non-magnetic option and see if he can locate it, but if you stumble upon the PN feel free to post it up.

Can't find my receipt but a quick search on MUD netted this:

Magnetic Drain Plug: 90341-18021
Fill Plug: 90341-18016
Crush Washer: 12157-10010 (or might be 90430-18023)

Anyone recall if the 80 series center diff/transfer case drain and fill bolts are the same as the front and rear axle? I didn't think about it at the time but I might as well change those out as well :)