View Full Version : Head Job. (Engine work get your mind out of the gutter)

07-10-2009, 07:58 PM
Ok the head is off my 60 AGAIN.

After looking at the failed head gasket I found this.
Note between these cylinders the fiber in the gasket material is eroded away to the metal mesh under it. I also noticed the hole in the head and block but no hole in the gasket. That leads me to my WTF moment. Thoughts.

So I got the new Toyota gasket P# HY TY 11115-61010 out of the package and laid it on the block. It has the most of the holes uncovered but a few are blocked. Should it be this way. The water pump is still on the block so the tab on the head gasket allows it to only be installed one way (smart Toyota) because it would hit the back plate on the water pump.
See below pics.





So I am posting this here for you guys because you probably all know what is up and I am seaching mud at the same time.


07-10-2009, 08:28 PM
That's fine on the HG.

07-10-2009, 08:30 PM
Yeah I just got a similar reply back on mud. Thanks

Tomorrow I will clean it all up, check the block and head for cracks, straightness, and perfection. Should I use copper prep spray for the HG?

07-10-2009, 08:40 PM
I've always cleaned it up the surfaces and use a clean gasket.

You might put a straight edge on the block/head and see if you have a gap where it failed.

07-10-2009, 10:11 PM
I plan on straight edging the block and head carefully, I am also going to clean the block threads with tap, moly grease the bolts on the way in, and have the surfaces spotless.

07-10-2009, 10:18 PM
The top pic was your new gasket that you recently installed? Dang!!

On the head bolts...are you suppose to grease them? I thought I read somewhere once where you shouldn't do that because it would screw up getting the proper torque on the bolts :confused:

07-10-2009, 10:22 PM
brb going to garage to grab FSM. It might say oil actually.

07-10-2009, 10:27 PM
It says.

"Apply a light coat of engine oil on the bolt threads and under the bolt head before installing the bolts"

That is what I will be doing.. :)


07-10-2009, 10:40 PM
It says.

"Apply a light coat of engine oil on the bolt threads and under the bolt head before installing the bolts"

That is what I will be doing.. :)


Roger :thumb:

Now if you're like me you'll get to overthink what they mean by "light coat" :lmao:

07-10-2009, 10:48 PM

07-11-2009, 07:26 AM
Just found a DIY thread on the oil galley plug in the head. I'm going to tap it 8mm and put a set screw in it today also. With loctite

07-11-2009, 07:39 AM
Be careful chasing the threads with a tap - you DON'T want to cut new threads, just clean the crud out of the old ones. Gaskets are desgined to be installed dry, no need for the copper prep stuff. In the first pic it looks like there are carbon tracks on the fire rings between the cylinders. Do a thorough inspection of the head and block in that area for cracks or pits. As for oil on the bolts - just wipe a smidge of oil on the bolt threads before you insert the bolt. You don't want oil to puddle in the bottom of the hole. Make sure the bottom of the hole is clear with a shot of compressed air before inserting the bolt. If the bolt comes down on fluid, oil or water, it will definitely screw up the clamp stress/torque value.

07-11-2009, 08:44 AM
did you not deck the head when you had the valves done?

07-11-2009, 11:05 AM
Yeah Gunn Automotive rebuilt the whole head and machined it.

07-11-2009, 01:38 PM
13x1.75 tap for Head bolts? Anyone know where to get one or have one I can borrow just to hand chase the bolt threads in my block?

07-12-2009, 07:02 PM
Well it's back together and has been on one test drive. I am tired.

I need to warm it up again then retorque the bolts and do a warm adjustment of the valves.

Hopefully it holds this time. When checked with straight edge it was all tight with the feeler gauges.

07-12-2009, 07:04 PM
Nice, Enjoy a :beer:

07-12-2009, 07:19 PM
On the head bolts...are you suppose to grease them? I thought I read somewhere once where you shouldn't do that because it would screw up getting the proper torque on the bolts :confused:
The right torque will be hit with whatever Toyota says to use, but you have to do what they say to get the right clamping force (bolt twist is really an inexact way to measure this). In any case, you want the bolt torque to be very close on each of them, the actual value can be higher to increase the clamping force on the HG (such as using ARP studs instead of bolts). But there is a limit to how much higher it can be without warping the head. You definitely do not want anti-seize, grease or whatever on the head bolts since they have to be precise. I wiped oil on mine with my hands enough to coat them but not enough for them to drip. It would be extremely bad to have so much oil that you hydrolock the bolts with a pool of oil at the bottom of the blind head bolt holes... You would have very low clamping on that bolt. Otherwise, I usually do use anti-seize everywhere else and reduce the torque wrench setting by ~10%.

07-12-2009, 10:07 PM
I just did the oil and torqued them to 97ftlbs.

07-12-2009, 10:35 PM

07-13-2009, 06:56 PM
No worries on hydrolocking the bolts, if there is excess oil it will find it's way up the threads. But you still don't want excess oil.

Good note on this thread about lubed versus non-lubed torque values. Obviously lubed will give much lower torque values for the same tension on the fastener. The machinery's handbook has charts on this.

07-14-2009, 12:10 AM
I ran it more today then retorqued it. They moved about 1/8-1/16 of a turn each when setting back to 97#

I then set my valve lash and changed the oil. Drove it more to get ice cream and so far all is good. Fingers crossed.

07-14-2009, 01:39 PM
Well I have put about 30 more miles on it so far today and it's looking good so far. Starting better when it don't have coolant in the cylinder and no smoke except for some tired engine puffs every once in a while. This should hold me over until I have more time and funds available for a proper engine build or a swap.

07-14-2009, 05:16 PM
Good to hear this one is working out!

Don't forget to retorque your bolts.

07-14-2009, 05:46 PM
Yesterday was my bolt retorquing. I drove it around for a bit Sun and Yesterday then retorqued. I also set my valve lash.

07-14-2009, 05:51 PM
even so you might do it again at a longer interval like 1k just to be sure.

07-14-2009, 09:30 PM
For sure or should I say Fo Shizzle dizzle.

07-14-2009, 11:35 PM
I say heck with it, drive it like you stole it. It's a Land Cruiser!

07-15-2009, 08:18 AM
Maybe after I tip toe through this HG issue I will take that approach again. I'm head gasket shy at this point. I had a 1976 Audi 100LS with a blow headgasket, a 1991 4runner 3VZEpos with a blown head gasket, and now the cruiser with a cracked head then a blown head gasket.

Funny thing is my VW with the VR6 and 18lbs of boost from the turbo HG I put on it never leaked a bit.

07-15-2009, 06:45 PM
So next time I expect to see a Red Cruiser at breakfast! Glad you worked it out.

07-15-2009, 08:56 PM
Heck yeah

07-20-2009, 09:42 AM
It's still running.

-My oil level is the same and not milky
-My coolant level is not changed in my overflow
-I have no bubbly sound when the truck is running and I switch the heater temp from cool to hot and the bubbles in the cooling system flow through the heater core.

I'm thinking I may have been successful this time. WOOT.

07-26-2009, 05:34 PM
WOOT. Woot woot! :headbang:

07-26-2009, 05:46 PM

When do you install your OME lift?