View Full Version : No spark after motor rebuild

08-11-2009, 10:48 AM
I'm having some issues getting my 2F to come to life. I recently replaced just about everything on it during a huge rebuild. New plugs, wires, recurved distributor, rebuilt head, rebuilt carb, new PS pump, all desmogged, etc.

Anyway, I've gotten her all hooked up and am trying to turn her over. I'm getting plenty of fuel but no spark at the coil. After running all of the tests listed in the FSM the coil appears to be good. Could paint on the inner fender well prevent the coil from grounding? I assume the bolt that holds it down there provides the ground to the coil circuit.

Mike (jettaglxdriver) is helping me out and he really knows his stuff. So he might chime in with other things that we've done that I forgot to list. Any help would be much appreciated!

08-11-2009, 11:37 AM
I recently upgraded to an electronic ignition on my FJ40 using the 60 series igniter and coil and a 78 full electronic dizzy. The coil/igniter bracket does provide the connection to ground. Should be a quick thing to confirm by using a test lead between the bracket and a good ground. I installed with a wire from the bracket to the battery to make sure the ground was good.

I found this procedure that can be used to test the ignition system; credit goes to JimC and/or Coolerman. I recall there were photos as well, but don't remember if they were on MUD or Coolerman's site. If the components check out, I would expect that next step would be to confirm power is getting to the igniter.

Test the complete 81-87 2F ignition system on the workbench.

- A coil & ignitor assembly and a distributor assembly
- a source of 12VDC power. I use a gel cell battery from an old computer battery backup. A car battery or a 12V rechargable drill battery are also good sources.
- test lead wires w/ alligator clips
- clean sparkplug gapped at ~.040"
- known good coil or plug wire
- large vise grip or small c-clamp

-remove cap & rotor from dissy.
-insert coil or plug wire into end of coil.
-insert sparkplug into end of coil wire.
-Clamp plug body to foot of coil w/ vise grip or small c-clamp, so that plug gap is visible.

-plug ignitor lead into dissy.
-connect -12V lead to mounting foot of coil
-clear the area! connect 12V+ to coil + terminal. ignition is live now.
-spin dissy shaft by hand. spark should be visible & audible at plug.
-disconnect battery. watch out, coil will spark one last time when battery is disconnected.

08-11-2009, 01:08 PM
that's cool!

08-11-2009, 01:21 PM
is the igniter the little box on top of the coil?

08-11-2009, 02:12 PM
is the igniter the little box on top of the coil?

Depends, the key is in the type of distributor. If the distributor is a Toyota electronic, identified by screws to hold down the cap, then the ignition system needs to have an igniter and coil. Typically the igniter is the box on top of the coil. If the distributor is not electronic the little box is a ballast resistor.

08-11-2009, 02:47 PM
This is the OEM electronic Toyota distributor. It was rebuilt and recurved (for the desmog) by JimC.

08-11-2009, 03:03 PM
Is there a test in the FSM to be sure you are getting a signal from the sensor in the distributor? As I recall, the sensor is a bit fragile where the ignitor and coil are tough and rarely fail.

08-11-2009, 06:03 PM
I'm sure you already did.. but make sure that cyl 1 is top dead center on compression.. and that your cam timing is in-line with the crank. its super easy to accidentally get a 180 on somthing. expectually if your tired and building after a long days work. but odds are thats not your problem.. id also check the cam, and crank sensors "if applicable". theres should also be a pick up coil somewere.

08-11-2009, 07:27 PM
Is it possible to not be #1 TDC if we were able to set the lash on the first set of valves then turn the crank 360 as the FSM says and set the other set of valves with not problems of the wrong valves being compressed by the rockers?

When we were first off on the cam timing by 360 when we had #1 at TDC as indicated by the line on the flywheel and the rotor pointing at #4 we were able to test the loose and tight rockers in the exact reverse order they should have been. Instead of counting from #1 cy to #6 cyl we could have set them from #6 to #1. This is not what we did and it would not have been right but it indicated to me we were 360 degrees off with our cam timing and we were not truly at #1 TDC. We cranked it over 360 and reset the distro according to the FSM and when we turn it over to what indicates #1 FSM on the flywheel and rotor we are able to properly set all valve lashes with no funny valve compressions by the rockers.

Even if we are 180 degrees out shouldn't 12v to the coil and the impulse from the distro signal the coil wire to spark when tested against ground as the FSM indicates it should even if it is not sparking at the right time? At this point when testing the coil wire to the ground there is no spark ever when cranking.

08-11-2009, 08:34 PM
So I grounded the ignition coil base a little better and swapped 2 connectors (the wire coming from the coil was mixed up with one on the charcoal canister) and it started right up! Now it's just a matter of setting the timing, A/F, and whatever else it needs.

Thanks for the help everyone!

08-11-2009, 08:38 PM
So I grounded the ignition coil base a little better and swapped 2 connectors (the wire coming from the coil was mixed up with one on the charcoal canister) and it started right up!

:thumb: It is nice when it is straight forward like that:cheers:. Good work:D

08-11-2009, 08:42 PM
Sweet glad that is all it was.

08-12-2009, 06:56 PM
sweet, and yes you should still have spark even if out 180.. :cheers: