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View Full Version : Input needed on knuckle rebuild


ElliottB
09-12-2009, 12:13 PM
Well the time has come to tear apart the front axle. The knuckles are looking REALLY cruddy and just like everything else, it is original equipment with a hard 204k miles on it. I've got the knuckle rebuild kit and will be ordering the Marlin Crawler inner axle seals. I've been searching the mud forums and reading everything I can... but I know you guys are the gurus!

Any tips or tricks on this install would be MUCH appreciated. I'm thinking the 2 most important ingredients in this are many rolls of shop towels and a couple cases of Fat Tire. :D

ElliottB
09-12-2009, 12:54 PM
I'm sure it will all make sense when I get it apart but just for the sake of being thorough here is the pile of stuff I got with my install kit.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a349/Puma297/CruiserSusp/_MG_8018.jpg

1:Medium bearings
2:Large bearings (spindle bearings?)
3:Knuckle gaskets (rubber, felt, brass, and 3 paper gaskets)
4:Knuckle shims (4 thin, 4 thick)
5:???
6:???
7:Small bearings (upper knuckle, lower knuckle)
8:Inner axle seal
9:Outer axle seal

wesintl
09-12-2009, 01:02 PM
Just make sure you use the same thickness of shims. I often don't use what's included and just put the oem ones back in. just don't mar them up trying to seperate the arm. use brass punch to get them and the bearing races out. I usually use the old races to set the new ones unless you have the tool. Be careful putting in the bearing seal for the wheel bearings. I've seen people bend them trying to get em in.

5 are the lock rings for the bearing nuts
6 are the hub gasket you want to use those instead of the ones right above it which look like 80 drive flange gaskets.

ElliottB
09-12-2009, 02:17 PM
Thanks man! Toyota axles are way different than 14 bolts, 8.8's, etc. There are a TON of little parts. I'll update with progress as its made.

rover67
09-12-2009, 02:25 PM
i just did mine for the second time in a few years, wes has good advice. if you want give me a buzz and i can talk yo uthrough it before you get started. It's no that hard, just greasy... and keep the shims in the same spot like wes says, chances are your preloads will be fine.

Chris
09-12-2009, 03:21 PM
Do one side at a time. If you get lost you can look at the other side. Print 3 copies of whatever guide you're using. Tape one to each side and keep the other as a spare. Not hard but damned messy.

Bikeman
09-12-2009, 03:48 PM
Definately use the marlin axle seals and drive them in squarely and flush. Another tipis to not fill the front diff all the way until it flows out the fill hole like other axles, but fill to 1/2" below the fill plug. This will help keep axle seals from blowing. Also re-tourque the knuckle studs after a short time to avoid broken knuckle studs. It would be a good idea to get a couple extra c-clips that hold the axle shaft into the birf.

Rock Dog
09-12-2009, 05:09 PM
If you are tearing it down that far, take apart the Birf's and inspect, clean and re-pack them with good Moly grease.
-->this last time when I took mine apart, i swapped them side to side.... they are a bit tougher to put back together than the 80 birfs because they do not have the groove inside the birf splines.. but well worth it.

--> you can get a cheap fish scale from Walmart to set the wheel bearing pre-load. i bought another one with the last rebuild...

--> it is a really messy job, and i found the blue paper towels worked better than rags to clean all that crap out.
I also put a large piece of cardboard under it all to help with cleanup.

--> I put the bearing races in the freezer the night before (make sure the correct bearing goes with the correct race, as they are a married pair.. do not mix and match). This really helped putting them in, especially with the trunion bearings..

ElliottB
09-12-2009, 07:38 PM
Thanks guys. Here is the mess of a truck I'm working with.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a349/Puma297/CruiserSusp/_MG_8019.jpg

And I got this far in only a couple hours. The bad part is that I have to clean the gunk off for an hour before I can wrench for 30 mins. Ugh.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a349/Puma297/CruiserSusp/_MG_8025.jpg

subzali
09-13-2009, 06:33 AM
if you don't have one, get a seal puller. I know you can use a screwdriver or whatever, but the stupid things are only $7 at NAPA and I almost lost two fingers using the screwdriver method. If you're taking the birf apart you will need the c-clip and snap ring that hold each one to the inner axle, as they usually break or deform upon removal. To get the birf apart use a 1 1/2" sch. 40 steel pipe, put a rag on the top and in the bottom, then slide the inner axle in the top and bash the bottom on the concrete until the inner axle lets go and slides to the bottom. To get the c-clip and snap ring back on, some have had good luck with zip ties holding them clamped down until they were far enough in that the birfield was holding them clamped down, then snipping the zip ties off. I can't remember what I did when I did mine - creative use of needle nose pliers probably. Have fun! Don't worry if the first side takes a long time - my first axle service took 27 hours over 3 days, and I think the first side took 16 or 18 hours or something. I don't know anyone yet who took longer than me :D

jettaglxdriver
09-13-2009, 09:20 AM
Hey Elliot I see you went to Harbor Freight since we worked on my brakes and oil pan. You got one of them magnetic bolt holding bowls stuck on your fender.

ElliottB
09-13-2009, 01:35 PM
Hey Elliot I see you went to Harbor Freight since we worked on my brakes and oil pan. You got one of them magnetic bolt holding bowls stuck on your fender.

:D

They are just so dang convenient and at a buck a piece, you can't go wrong!

Subzali,

Thanks for the words of wisdom. I'm not sure if I'll tear the actual birf apart or not. I may just clean it out best I can and replace with grease. We'll see what I actually get done though. And I'm betting I can beat your record of 27 hours. I have A LOT of cleaning to do.

rover67
09-13-2009, 01:45 PM
i use an oil pan filled with diesel to clean th ebig stuff. works pretty well.

Chris
09-13-2009, 02:11 PM
:D
I'm not sure if I'll tear the actual birf apart or not. I may just clean it out best I can and replace with grease.

Easy way: Press in new grease until you don't see any of the old squishing out. ;)

wesintl
09-13-2009, 02:49 PM
you might as well separate them. When is the next time you plan to do this? a 2" pvc pipe from home depot will separate them. you just need a set of clips.

ElliottB
09-13-2009, 02:59 PM
I got the nuts and cone washers off of the steering arm. Is there a special procedure to pulling the steering arm itself off? I can't get either the upper or lower one off. Shouldn't the arm just lift right up and off?

wesintl
09-13-2009, 04:57 PM
they are on the knuckle bearing. use the brass punch from inside the knuckle to seperate them.

ElliottB
09-13-2009, 05:01 PM
Thanks, finally got them off. Everything on this truck is rusted and seized like crazy. I'm pretty sure none of this stuff has been apart in 28 years. I got it torn down and cleaned up. Looks like there are some burn marks or something on the housing. Neither a wire wheel nor scrubbing could take this off.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a349/Puma297/CruiserSusp/_MG_8029.jpg

nakman
09-14-2009, 08:53 AM
Looks normal to me, and looking good! Did you pop the birfields? Like Wes said it only takes sliding it into a piece of PVC... I use a hose clamp on the clip for re-assembly. Since it's a part-time truck you'll probably never need to go in here again unless you break something, so I'd second the idea of doing it all.. it'll be good for another 28 years. :)

leiniesred
09-14-2009, 04:29 PM
Elliot. I think you live on my street.

I mean how many 60s were getting knuckles done last night?

I bet you live 3 houses down the hill from me.

Walk up to 19368 if you need help or tools.

-Stephen

jettaglxdriver
09-14-2009, 04:34 PM
LOL I used to live a little ways away from Elliot and his friend lived right down my street and he spotted my 60 one day.

ElliottB
09-14-2009, 10:53 PM
HAHA whoa... all of the Aurora yota guys are on this forum! Thanks for the offer Stephen, feel free to come down to the garage sometime and drink a beer. I cleaned everything last night and will be reassembling tomorrow night.

Chris
09-15-2009, 11:18 AM
I must live on the wrong side of Aurora, I never see any Cruisers. :hill:

jettaglxdriver
09-15-2009, 01:00 PM
HAHA whoa... all of the Aurora yota guys are on this forum! Thanks for the offer Stephen, feel free to come down to the garage sometime and drink a beer. I cleaned everything last night and will be reassembling tomorrow night.

I'm no longer an Aurora yota guy I'm now a Westminster yota guy.

Uncle Ben
09-15-2009, 03:19 PM
I must live on the wrong side of Aurora, I never see any Cruisers. :hill:

Aurora is the wrong side! :p: :lmao::lmao: :bolt:

Northside Rules!!! :woot::woot:;)

Chris
09-15-2009, 08:02 PM
Aurora is the wrong side! :p: :lmao::lmao: :bolt:

Northside Rules!!! :woot::woot:;)


Northside? I've heard of it but never been there.

Too scary for me. :eek:

Uncle Ben
09-15-2009, 09:15 PM
Northside? I've heard of it but never been there.

Too scary for me. :eek:

Bummer....maybe you read about it instead (http://money.cnn.com/magazines/moneymag/bplive/2009/snapshots/PL0846355.html)?

Chris
09-15-2009, 10:29 PM
Bummer....maybe you read about it instead (http://money.cnn.com/magazines/moneymag/bplive/2009/snapshots/PL0846355.html)?

Thanks, I read the comments, I'm done. ;)

ElliottB
09-18-2009, 02:57 PM
What are the larger seals for? Listed as #9 in the picture. I don't think I've run across those yet. I really should get an FSM.

Heres the progress as of a couple nights ago.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a349/Puma297/CruiserSusp/_MG_8034.jpg

rover67
09-18-2009, 03:06 PM
#9

They look like the big ones that go in the hub after you drop the inner wheel bearing in.

you really got that thing clean.. take a look at that steering box!

jettaglxdriver
09-18-2009, 03:18 PM
that is clean. Elliot did you just use up the free worlds supply of brake cleaner?

corsair23
09-18-2009, 04:22 PM
What are the larger seals for? Listed as #9 in the picture.

Daaaannnnggg that thing is clean :thumb:

As for #9 - Do you have a part #?

It looks like part #90311-62001 based on this (labeled 43510A on the picture):

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_1981_TOYOTA_LAND+CRUISER_FJ60LG-KA_4303.html

I use this site a lot to identify parts I need :hill:

ElliottB
09-19-2009, 08:30 AM
Thanks for the heads up, that must be where that thing goes. I'll be separating the hub/rotor and reinstalling everything this afternoon so I'm sure I'll find a home for it somewhere.

ElliottB
09-28-2009, 04:04 PM
Don't worry if the first side takes a long time - my first axle service took 27 hours over 3 days, and I think the first side took 16 or 18 hours or something. I don't know anyone yet who took longer than me :D

I think I may officially have you beat. Now I'm just trying to find time to go get the wheel studs pressed into my new rotor/hub. Dang machine shop is only open while I'm at work. :rant:

Otherwise things went fairly smoothly.

wesintl
09-28-2009, 04:08 PM
do what the rest of us do and use a BFH and then suck them on with a lug nut. GIT'r done

rover67
09-28-2009, 04:09 PM
just push the studs most of the way through and use an old lug nut to pull them through. bolt the wheel to it and torque it if there are not enough threads or you feel like stuff's getting damaged.

rover67
09-28-2009, 04:09 PM
do what the rest of us do and use a BFH and then suck them on with a lug nut. GIT'r done


what wes said.

subzali
09-28-2009, 04:49 PM
I think I may officially have you beat. Now I'm just trying to find time to go get the wheel studs pressed into my new rotor/hub. Dang machine shop is only open while I'm at work. :rant:

Otherwise things went fairly smoothly.

cleaning everything up doesn't count. And disassembling the hub/rotor doesn't count. That's extra work :p:

nakman
09-28-2009, 05:07 PM
It's been a while since I worked on a 60 axle, but I'm pretty sure you didn't have to take off the leaf spring.. that may be what's taking so long. :lmao: :bolt:

ElliottB
09-28-2009, 07:41 PM
You actually DO have to remove the leaf spring. It helps to get the johnson rod extracticator bearings out. Also it makes it easier if you remove the door panels for extra leverage. :D

I tried the method to get the new wheels studs to seat but no go. Besides I need at least an inch of thread showing because I'm using wheel spacers for my new wheels. The machine shop will be able to handle it for cheaper than what my frustration is worth.

ElliottB
10-01-2009, 07:04 PM
I hate to be a nuisance asking all of these details but I am confused on this one.

I cannot get my hub/rotor assembly to completely seat onto the spindle. The rubber part of the outer spindle seal is keeping it from sitting flush. When I try to bolt up the big 54mm nut it is obvious it's not sitting flush on the spindle.

Here's a pic of what I'm saying.

nakman
10-01-2009, 08:35 PM
Either your new big seal in the back of the hub isn't in all the way, or one of the bearing races isn't in all the way, or you just need to finesse it more. Did you do new races? sometimes you have to twist, turn, wiggle that thing, then it'll somehow thunk on the last bit. You can also smear a little grease all over that spindle, which will help the rollers slide on a little easier. But it all came off of there, it'll go back on. :)

leiniesred
10-02-2009, 01:40 PM
I think I have a spare mini truck spindle and probably an IFS hub too if you want to compare stuff. I'll have the 'runner around too so we can pull it apart a bit and see if everything looks the same.

mtnrunner
10-02-2009, 10:02 PM
When I have that issue, either the re-assembly order was wrong or there was too much grease behind the spindle and the pressure of too much grease won't let it seat.

ElliottB
10-03-2009, 02:25 PM
Stephen helped me figure it out! Apparently it wasn't fully seated on the spindle when I was bolting it up and it got all wavy. Problem solved, and the drivers side is completely assembled. Thanks for the help, this forum rocks!

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a349/Puma297/CruiserSusp/S5001305.jpg

60wag
10-04-2009, 07:38 AM
That looks as clean as the pictures in the Toyota manual.

jettaglxdriver
10-04-2009, 08:07 AM
Is that an OEM Yellow bump stop?


;)

That all looks really good man.