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View Full Version : 22R Alternator voltage regulator needed


MDH33
09-23-2009, 09:22 AM
My hilux started running strange this week. The "Charge" warning light is coming on and the truck won't idle. The Voltmeter is reading 12 volts, but if I rev it above 3000, the light goes off and the voltmeter jumps to 14.5 and will stay there. However, I have to keep on the throttle to keep it running or it will stall.

I'm thinking alternator or voltage regulator. :confused:

Does anyone have a spare alternator and voltage regulator I can borrow? I wanted to try a test before ordering any new part$.

thanks!

treerootCO
09-23-2009, 09:26 AM
Ige had that happen in Clampy....light goes on when the Alt is fried.

MDH33
09-23-2009, 09:30 AM
Ige had that happen in Clampy....light goes on when the Alt is fried.

Would the alternator issue keep it from idling as well? I'm wondering if it's related or separate issues that started simultaneously.

treerootCO
09-23-2009, 09:34 AM
Would the alternator issue keep it from idling as well? I'm wondering if it's related or separate issues that started simultaneously.

Can't seem to find that thread...Butch was involved, I think the idle was funny but don't remember now. Diode went South....

Pull the battery cables with her running and if it dies, you know the alt and or voltage regulator it at fault...

RicardoJM
09-23-2009, 09:47 AM
Does anyone have a spare alternator and voltage regulator I can borrow? I wanted to try a test before ordering any new part$.

I have an FJ40 alternator. If it fits, you are welcome to it. I also have a spare FJ40 voltage regulator, but I know it needs adjustment because it will let the voltage spike into the 15 range.

You could pull the alternator and run it into the NAPA, Checker, AutoZone - pretty much all of them will be able to test it. If it is bad, you might want to have it rebuilt by D&D Auto Electric. I had them rebuild one for me and it has been working great. Timm picked up his starter there.

MDH33
09-23-2009, 10:04 AM
I have an FJ40 alternator. If it fits, you are welcome to it. I also have a spare FJ40 voltage regulator, but I know it needs adjustment because it will let the voltage spike into the 15 range.

You could pull the alternator and run it into the NAPA, Checker, AutoZone - pretty much all of them will be able to test it. If it is bad, you might want to have it rebuilt by D&D Auto Electric. I had them rebuild one for me and it has been working great. Timm picked up his starter there.

Thanks Ricardo. I think the 22R alt has a very specific wiring hook-up, but taking it in to be tested, might be a good idea.

Edit: I just talked to D&D and they'll bench test both the alternator and voltage regulator and they have replacements on the shelf. :thumb:

TIMZTOY
09-23-2009, 12:43 PM
pullingthe positive cable would only kill the truck if the alt was charging less than 12v the best way is to take it off and take it to AUTO ZONE and have it tested. AZ's tester is higher quality. if you have a ohm/multi meter just test from ground to the alf power bolt. Should be 14.5v regardless or rpm. :thumb:

MDH33
09-23-2009, 12:49 PM
pullingthe positive cable would only kill the truck if the alt was charging less than 12v the best way is to take it off and take it to AUTO ZONE and have it tested. AZ's tester is higher quality. if you have a ohm/multi meter just test from ground to the alf power bolt. Should be 14.5v regardless or rpm. :thumb:

Any thoughts on why the voltmeter is reading only 12 volts 0-3000 rpm and then when I reach 3000, it jumps to 14.5 and holds steady until I let off the gas, at which time it stalls?

treerootCO
09-23-2009, 02:02 PM
Bad battery, pull the cable while it is running.

nuclearlemon
09-23-2009, 05:36 PM
if the charge and the brake light both come on, it's a diode in the alternator. that's what happened to clampy.

you can use a cruiser regulator from a late model cruiser, just make jumpers for it. i did that for about a week while i was waiting on a pickup regulator to come from a guy on pirate. the manuals show what ohms your regulator plugs should show, that's how we knew mine was the regulator.

TIMZTOY
09-23-2009, 09:02 PM
it sounds like the either the coil or brushes I think. Are bad. It is probl not the regulator. That's why I'd take it AZ to have tested. They test all the componets of the alt. Don't forget to ohm your wires. And check the pigtail that goes into the regulator.

MDH33
09-24-2009, 07:31 AM
if the charge and the brake light both come on, it's a diode in the alternator. that's what happened to clampy.




I forgot to add that the brake light is coming on too! Must be the alternator then?

ttubb
09-24-2009, 08:01 AM
I believe that certain diode failures could cause the alternator to "motorize" and act as a force opposite to the normal rotation, causing the lower idle.

I am reaching back to my recollection of aircraft alternators but the systems may be similar. I would check out the alternator. Terry

nuclearlemon
09-24-2009, 08:24 AM
from what the wise one told me there are two diodes and when one goes bad, it will light both lights and it allows current to flow in both directions. he told me that if i didn't get it replaced, to pull the battery cables every time i shut it off to keep losing the charge in my battery, but it would be fine to drive.

i replaced mine rather than test that theory;)

MDH33
10-04-2009, 10:15 AM
I got the alternator and regulator tested at D&D. He said the alternator needed new brushes and that the regulator was ok. He refurbed the alternator, $80.00. I installed it today and the truck is doing exactly the same thing... charge and brake light come on, but will turn off above 3000rpm, but if I let off the throttle, it stalls and charge/brake come on again.

I did mention to the guy at D&D that the diode might be the problem and that both the brake/charge light might indicate that. He said that both the brake and charge come on for any alternator problem.

Edit:

Problem solved! :) When the alternator died, it appears to have blown the charge fuse. It starts, charges and idles fine now. Thanks for the input.

RicardoJM
02-11-2010, 06:53 AM
... the truck is doing exactly the same thing... charge and brake light come on, but will turn off above 3000rpm, but if I let off the throttle, it stalls and charge/brake come on again.

Edit:

Problem solved! :) When the alternator died, it appears to have blown the charge fuse. It starts, charges and idles fine now. Thanks for the input.

John C.'s post looking for an alternator upgrade for his 20R got me searching through the old threads to find the shop that I used for my alternator rebuild. While researching, I came across this post. TheBoomBoom will get a chuckle from reading it.

jacdaw
02-11-2010, 07:11 AM
Thanks Ricardo, I chuckled as well. If D&D refurb'ed Martin's/Rick's alternator for $80, that's right in line with my budget.:D

Uncle Ben
02-11-2010, 07:36 AM
Thanks Ricardo, I chuckled as well. If D&D refurb'ed Martin's/Rick's alternator for $80, that's right in line with my budget.:D

John, you are fortunate to live close to Vanatta Electric (http://www.dexknows.com/business_profiles/vanatta_auto_electric-b1449593)! Over by the Pearl Street mall you will be pleasantly satisfied!

jacdaw
02-11-2010, 07:43 AM
John, you are fortunate to live close to Vanatta Electric (http://www.dexknows.com/business_profiles/vanatta_auto_electric-b1449593)! Over by the Pearl Street mall you will be pleasantly satisfied!And even more fortunate to know folks like yous guys :bowdown:
If I were in CA I'd know exactly where to go. It's hard starting over this late in life. I know nothing anymore.:rolleyes: