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View Full Version : 22RE Headgasket/Timing/Cam Build


mtnrunner
10-11-2009, 06:21 PM
I got motivated and decided to fix my 22RE oil leak issues on my crawler. It was leaking bad where the timing cover meets the head. I took the head off and the timing cover.

I ordered a new timing cover, Head gasket set with bolts, Intake gasket set, oil pump, timing chain with metal backed guides, water pump and main seal with sleeve kit from Engnbldr.com I also got his 268C torker cam.

The motor ran fine before disassembling it, no overheating or head gasket issues. Do I need to get the head resurfaced before I put it all back together or is just cleaning up the sealing surfaces and installing the new gaskets OK? Any tips to ensure a leak-free motor when I reassemble it all? I got new Vitron valve stem seals for it too. Anything special on installing the new cam other than lobe lube? I plan on re-using the stock rocker arms. They do not look worn.

I will break in the new cam at 2K for 20mins and use Toyota FIPG on all but the head gasket. I will also chase out the head bolt holes to make sure they are clean for even torque.

Any other tips or suggestions are welcome.

Thanks,

Mark

ElliottB
10-11-2009, 11:51 PM
While the head is out, you might as well take it to Gunn Automotive. They are familiar with all things Toyota. I got a valve job (along with a few extras) done on my 2F head for a VERY reasonable price. Just torque everything down in the recommended pattern/specs.

TIMZTOY
10-11-2009, 11:52 PM
Sounds like you already know everything you need to know. Just make sure your all lined up with the piston at top dead cyl 1, and make sure you align your cam also. All valves closed to indicate compression stroke . It's all eaiser than it sounds. If you took it apart that far you've already done he hard part. I'd just clean the head surfaces. And put in a new gasket I perfer a buzzer wheel to clean the surface's some ppl will probly say that's wrong. But I've seen gaskets leak using just a razorblade and none leake using a buzzer. I'm just trying to think why you took the head off to do timing stuff. Typically not required.

If you'd like a hand I'm off tommorw and not doing much. I'd love to help.

4runner luv
10-12-2009, 12:13 AM
I would get the head planed. I've done 2 rebuilds and a head gasket replace on the 22r. I didn't get the plane on the head gasket replace and it leaked soon after. I've been told it's critical cuz it's an aluminum head. Just my 2 cents. good luck.

mtnrunner
10-12-2009, 09:32 PM
Sounds like you already know everything you need to know. Just make sure your all lined up with the piston at top dead cyl 1, and make sure you align your cam also. All valves closed to indicate compression stroke . It's all eaiser than it sounds. If you took it apart that far you've already done he hard part. I'd just clean the head surfaces. And put in a new gasket I perfer a buzzer wheel to clean the surface's some ppl will probly say that's wrong. But I've seen gaskets leak using just a razorblade and none leake using a buzzer. I'm just trying to think why you took the head off to do timing stuff. Typically not required.

If you'd like a hand I'm off tommorw and not doing much. I'd love to help.

Thanks for the offer. Parts won't be here until Thursday and I probably won't be putting it back together for a week or so. I'll let you know when I do though.

TIMZTOY
10-12-2009, 11:46 PM
Thanks for the offer. Parts won't be here until Thursday and I probably won't be putting it back together for a week or so. I'll let you know when I do though.

Sounds great. Just let me know.

mtnrunner
11-21-2009, 08:09 AM
I got it all back together with the new parts. Seems to run good now. I'm anxious to see what extra torque I get from the new cam.

Red_Chili
11-21-2009, 08:44 AM
I liked mine. Seemed to add more mid range punch. Not breathtaking, but noticeable if you drove it back to back with a different truck.

DaveInDenver
11-21-2009, 08:56 AM
I run a 261C cam in an Engnbldr RV head (mild porting, oversized valves). Cost lots more, still slow. Might even be slower than stock, I think it has too much overlap. I did not have the head milled though and so my engine is basically just at stock compression. Next time? I would just have gone with the stock cam.

Red_Chili
11-21-2009, 09:29 AM
Full disclosure: I forgot to add that I put in oversized valves and a new Engnbldr head (Topline, but bigger valves). Huh. Mine ran so well a friend who rebuilt his to stock specs about the same time commented on how well it ran in comparison. These were total rebuilds, .020 over, heads new or resurfaced, blocks decked.

DaveInDenver
11-21-2009, 09:33 AM
blocks decked.
I did not do this either, stock deck height. Pretty sure my engine needs more compression to run right.

Rzeppa
11-23-2009, 09:48 PM
I'm just trying to think why you took the head off to do timing stuff. Typically not required.

Both the FSM and Haynes say you have to take the head off to do the timing chain on a 22RE. Joe Calleja told me about a special way he does it which doesn't require pulling the head but it sounds like both a PITA and a fair amount of art. I've done it with the head off and it is straightforward but a lot of work.

Any way you slice it, a 22RE and it's timing chain are a lot of work compared to newer engines and timing belts.

X2 on the buzzwheel versus standard gasket scraper. I use a 3M abrasive disk and occasionally supplemented with a wirewheel.