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rover67
10-22-2009, 09:10 AM
Hello all,

Looks like I'll be making a run to the junk yard to grab another york compressor on saturday (mine's toast). I figured I'd see if anybody else needed one in case I run across a few that are easy to pull.

I think they go for around 30 bucks.

Caribou Sandstorm
10-22-2009, 09:37 AM
what junk yard?

Chris
10-22-2009, 09:42 AM
I could use one if you find a few Marco. I use my a/c compressor for on-board air and my second one isn't sounding 100% these days.

rover67
10-22-2009, 10:36 AM
Copy that Chris.

Davis, it's gonna be the u-pull it in aurora probably...

you looking for something?

subzali
10-22-2009, 11:25 AM
why do you think it died such an early death?
http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/259374-borad-air-york-210-install.html

It wasn't even a year ago you installed it...

By the way, for an OBA idiot like me, could you modify your fist post on IH8MUD to explain what some of the items are for? It looks like the manifold was just an easy way to get your pressure switch, pressure indicator and safety valve all installed in a small package? What about the ARB compressor harness? Does that wire right in to your compressor's clutch as well as the pressure switch?

corsair23
10-22-2009, 11:35 AM
Marco,

If you find enough I'd take one for $30. We thought we killed mine last year at the BOWAGWR but then it started working again but having a spare to dissect and rebuild at my leisure would be nice.

:thumb:

subzali
10-22-2009, 12:00 PM
Do you have a check valve Marco?

rover67
10-22-2009, 12:43 PM
yep, I have a check valve on mine. It is integral to the leader hose I got from Viair.

I cooked mine on the tripple bypass run and it never really ran that well since. I was running it at about 2k rpm for about three trucks worth of tires and it got so hot the valves in it got kinda burned, the oil separator innards melted, and black burned oil kinda coked up the whole system. While it was running it started smoking pretty badly and that's what triggered me to shut it down for a little bit.

I have been running it since then even with the problems and didn't realize how bad it was untill I went to replace the drier last night. I bought a new one thinking that the one I had was not adequate because I kept getting oil in my air lines.. when i took it off I realized it was destroyed. Then I went to spin the compressor be hand and noticed the valves weren't closing and it wasn't pumping air. weird becasue at engine RPM it did. I guess they were getting forced shut. Anyways the whole thing looks like it's toast inside so i am just gonna go get another from the yard saturday.

Lesson learned... don't run it at high RPM's for extended periods of time. I think from now on I am gonna keep it under a thousand RPM.

As far as the parts, the manifold is just a place for all of the parts to mount and plumb into. it's where my guage, switch, pressure relief, and two ports for ARB solenoids are. yo uneed lots of places to put stuff so one of these manifolds helps keep it neat. I got the ARB harness because it was actually the cheapest way to do the wiring (came with everything including a switch for the compressor and relays) and now it is ready for the rest of the harness if i ever add ARB lockers to the truck. It had all the relays, and all of the wires with nice plugs for the compressor (typically it's for the actual electric compressor.. but i wired it to the clutch on the york), the ompressor on off switch, and pig tails for all of the additional stuff in the future. I couldn't have put it together for what i paid for it.

I checked with automoan, and the things are $133 for a rebuilt one, so I think the yard is still a better bet.

I'll just get as many as I can find when I go on saturday, sounds like as many as I can find will be good.

subzali
10-22-2009, 12:49 PM
So your check valve is upstream of your drier? Do you have to worry about the compressor starting up against pressure after it's been cycling? Because the pressurized air upstream of the check valve won't have been bled off?

What's the rated output cfm and rpm of the York? I thought you could get upwards of 8cfm with it, and would assume that it would have to be at some appreciable rpm to make that happen...

Sorry for contributing to your cooked York :o :( I'm working on getting my own OBA set up now...only 6 months late...:o If I can help at all let me know.

Normally you shouldn't be seeing any oil in your pressure line right? Isn't that the whole idea behind the York? But because of wear you get blowby in the line?

FJBRADY
10-22-2009, 12:54 PM
Marco,

This would interest me on the 40. I have a GM compressor that does not work so I would be interested if the York is a straight swap and I do not have to reroute the belt. What do you think?

rover67
10-22-2009, 01:07 PM
Kilby sells the mount kits. I bought theirs because I was lazy and didn't want to make my own. With their kits you don't have to reroute the belts.

I don't know if this fits your motor or not:

http://www.kilbyenterprises.com/KE-4000.htm

also, the right clutches are pretty easy to find. Do you have a V belt on your motor? i can look for a compressor with the right clutch at the yard too.

rover67
10-22-2009, 01:20 PM
So your check valve is upstream of your drier? Do you have to worry about the compressor starting up against pressure after it's been cycling? Because the pressurized air upstream of the check valve won't have been bled off?

What's the rated output cfm and rpm of the York? I thought you could get upwards of 8cfm with it, and would assume that it would have to be at some appreciable rpm to make that happen...

Sorry for contributing to your cooked York :o :( I'm working on getting my own OBA set up now...only 6 months late...:o If I can help at all let me know.

Normally you shouldn't be seeing any oil in your pressure line right? Isn't that the whole idea behind the York? But because of wear you get blowby in the line?


I don't have a bleed on mine, some folks do. I have not had any issues, the thing always starts up great.

I think most places rate the york at 4cfm at 90psi at 1500RPM. I have no idea what it actually moves. At idle it's pretty fast still though.

Please don't worrk about "contributing" to the cooking of the compressor. it was my decision to run it fast, I burned it up. I knew it might happen and was kind-of just seeing what it would take since I knew it was cheap.

Normally there shouldn't be any oil in the line, mine had a lot of oil in the line because i melted the guts of my drier. it was basically a hollow tube in there.

Uncle Ben
10-22-2009, 01:34 PM
I don't have a bleed on mine, some folks do. I have not had any issues, the thing always starts up great.

I think most places rate the york at 4cfm at 90psi at 1500RPM. I have no idea what it actually moves. At idle it's pretty fast still though.

Please don't worrk about "contributing" to the cooking of the compressor. it was my decision to run it fast, I burned it up. I knew it might happen and was kind-of just seeing what it would take since I knew it was cheap.

Normally there shouldn't be any oil in the line, mine had a lot of oil in the line because i melted the guts of my drier. it was basically a hollow tube in there.


There are two different York's out there. The most common is the 4-6cfm and the ones to find are the 8-10 CFM's that were in school buses and older Continentals. Physically they are close but there is a couple tell tail markings to look for. Kilby (On Board Air) used to have a page about this on the site. I have always used Sandans and Toy A/C pumps so I haven't played with Yorks much.

Most A/c pumps do not need a bleed as much as they need a check valve as they leak down enough to not have to worry about it. They are designed to move refrigerant not hold pressure.

rover67
10-22-2009, 01:44 PM
Yeah, there is a 6, 9, and 10 cubic inch displacement York. there are a few ways to ID them. I don't know the CFM ratings for them but am pretty sure the 10 cubich inch one is the biggest.

When I went looking for them the last time i saw a few 9ci ones, and lots of 10ci ones.

UB's compressor moves probably more air than my york... What's on wild rice? a sanden?

here's a site I found that shows how to tell the yorks apart... sometimes it's hard to see the number plate they are so covered in grease:

http://www.links4jeeps.com/writeups/york/idyork/

Uncle Ben
10-22-2009, 01:59 PM
Yeah, there is a 6, 9, and 10 cubic inch displacement York. there are a few ways to ID them. I don't know the CFM ratings for them but am pretty sure the 10 cubich inch one is the biggest.

When I went looking for them the last time i saw a few 9ci ones, and lots of 10ci ones.

UB's compressor moves probably more air than my york... What's on wild rice? a sanden?

here's a site I found that shows how to tell the yorks apart... sometimes it's hard to see the number plate they are so covered in grease:

http://www.links4jeeps.com/writeups/york/idyork/



I'm just using a Toy a/c pump on WR. I run an oiler full of Slick 50 on the inlet and then the water separator/filter downstream pull the oil back out. Has worked for over 15 years! The Toy pumps put out 8cfm. The most flow A/C pumps you can get are the Delco round R-12 units! They are a 12 cylinder beast capable of close to 16cfm but they are huge and will seize quickly if they don't get enough oil. Years ago a buddy of mine ran one on his trailer powered by a 5hp Briggs. That thing was impressive as heck and could rival (beat) most home air compressors!

subzali
10-22-2009, 02:18 PM
UB, does your separator route back to the inlet or do you just drain it and dispose of it periodically?

Uncle Ben
10-22-2009, 02:32 PM
UB, does your separator route back to the inlet or do you just drain it and dispose of it periodically?

With the captured oil you also have water.....not good for compressors!

subzali
10-22-2009, 02:41 PM
that's what I thought...

...so would something like this generally work for in-line oilers, 1 oz. bowl capacity? How much does the compressor use?
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/4ZL57

Uncle Ben
10-22-2009, 02:49 PM
that's what I thought...

...so would something like this generally work for in-line oilers, 1 oz. bowl capacity? How much does the compressor use?
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/4ZL57

Thats very similar to what I have on WR. You adjust the rate and even cranked up it will last probably a week of non stop use. Now my OBA is on when I'm wheeling rocks as I use it for my front air locker. I have a 3 gallon tank under the floor in the back.

subzali
10-22-2009, 03:19 PM
yeah I saw this...
http://www.4wheelers.com/3-gallon-air-tank-at300b-a-c-118-p-1263.html

And I know Quigley has a small tank under his hood too...was thinking about doing something like that. What are the approximate dimension of your 3 gallon tank?

PabloCruise
10-22-2009, 03:22 PM
Good Stuff in here!

I am wondering if I can fit a/c compressor on the 3FE in the Pig given the 3FE belt pattern.

Chris
10-22-2009, 06:02 PM
Here's a parts list and write-up from when I did mine.

http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/271674-convert-fj62-c-oba.html

Uncle Ben
10-22-2009, 08:02 PM
Good Stuff in here!

I am wondering if I can fit a/c compressor on the 3FE in the Pig given the 3FE belt pattern.

Last I checked both 62's and FJ-80's have A/C!

rover67
10-25-2009, 06:27 PM
Soo.... this didn't work out like I had planned. Looks like the places that I have been going to got rid of all the older cars. Now all that's in the yards is cash for clunkers cars. What a shame.

the first place that i went to used to have 3 scouts that all had yorks. and a unch of mercedes that had them too. all of those cars are gone now.

The third place i went to finally had an old f-250 that had a compressor on it I grabbed. It's not a york, but we'll make it work anyways. It was the only one i found out of three yards.



Sorry if i got everybodys hopes up.

Chris
10-25-2009, 08:19 PM
Thanks for looking!

corsair23
10-26-2009, 12:18 PM
Thanks for looking!

x2 Marco :thumb: