View Full Version : Yet another FJ40 Build up...with a hardcore twist

10-22-2009, 07:27 PM
Decided after getting s*** from people to post my buildup of an FJ40. The idea with this build was to use many of the parts I had laying around from other projects and create one rig that was fairly capable on the rocks with the ability to upgrade in the future.

The vehicle started its life as a '68 LC that the wife and I recieved as a wedding present from her father who had wheeled the rig for years.
This is the orginal 40 as I recieved it...the wife and I decided to combine a couple of rigs we had into one. Figured it would be easier for maintenance and cheaper in the long run...or so we thought :D

Specs on the new rig:
Tube out the rear of the vehicle while streaching to body 12"
Swap out stock LC axles for taco w/e-locker in rear and minitruck front
Remove the leafs and build front and rear 4-links on coilovers
Remove the drivetrain and replace with 3.4L--5spd taco trans--dual geardrive cases
Build cage and misc other things that come along the way

This build started in August of 2008, I am currently finished with the build and getting ready to go on a shake down run soon. I will be going through the build up from beginning to end quickly so you shouldn't get bored.

Started by stripping it down to the frame and removing all the old used junk. Drilled/pounded/plasma cut/torched/ground....the old rivets holding the inner and outer frame halfs together and welding them up solid. Stripped all the surface rust off the frame and gave it a fresh coat of paint.
Finally done with the rivets, at least on the front half of the frame, now for a coat of rust stop primer

Placing the engine was fairly easy in this rig because the 1F that was originally placed under the hood was quite a bit longer than the v-6 that is going in. Left the body on for now so I knew where the firewall location was going to be. After some deliberation and head scratching we came up with this as the location.
Now to whip up some motor mounts real quick. Was going to make something a little more bling, but didn't have the space.
Pretty basic and boring, but did make sure to use football shaped scab plates un like a lot of people the days...

I think thats enough for now, maybe I'll post some more in a while :D

10-22-2009, 11:13 PM
As the saga continues:

Figured the next step is to bolt up the tranny/transfercases and build the mount for them. Had to clearance the body quite a bit because this drivetrain combo is quite a bit longer than the LC drivetrain. I am also trying to keep the transfercases up and out of the way which also contributed to a lot of floor pan cutting. I'll have to figure out a way to cover that up later.

In the picture you can also see the FROR crossmember mount that I will be using. I love the idea of this drivetrain mount, I did however have some concerns with all that weight being supported by the rear of the case, but figured if an Ellinger came up with it and ran it then it is good enough for me!

Mounting all of this together was a bit of a PITA. But it all worked out in the end and I am fairly happy with the results. Biggest problem I ran into is a leaking tranny. I didn't assume that toyota drilled the mounting holes for the tacoma crossmember all the way through the tranny housing. Thus when I filled the transmission with fluid it all came running out. Not a big deal, just something else to fix.

After mounting the t-case I started on the body and rear frame. Figured the best place to section the body was at the factory seam right behind the door jamb. You can see it in the picture below:

With the rear body removed I was able to start on the rear frame. Cut the frame at its highest point in the curve as you can see here

I then removed the orginal rear crossmember as it would have been in the way later.
I rebuilt the rear frame from 2x3 3/16 sq. tube. I built the frame in a square fashion as you will see below. In hindsight I should have listened to Aaron and made this portion of the frame in an X shape as I ended up cutting most of the new frame out later to clear the coilovers.


10-23-2009, 09:51 AM
Hey, I recognize (kinda) that old 40. Go Tyler go!:thumb:

10-23-2009, 10:51 AM
Yeah dude, cool to watch you go man. Keep it up, and buy a better camera! ;) cool build man, thanks for sharing.


10-23-2009, 10:52 AM
ya I think your avitar pic was taken the same day as the one in my post!

Uncle Ben
10-23-2009, 12:11 PM
ya I think your avitar pic was taken the same day as the one in my post!

I remember seeing Jethro's blue headlights in vertical alignment very similar to Bruces' Avatar, on Cadillac Hill many moons ago! I guess it just gets tired once and a while and prefers to take a nap on it's right side! :lmao::lmao::lmao:

10-23-2009, 03:28 PM
Some how I don't think that will change, in fact after all the major surgeries it has undergone it may take more naps than ever!

Uncle Ben
10-23-2009, 03:40 PM
Some how I don't think that will change, in fact after all the major surgeries it has undergone it may take more naps than ever!

Maybe it needs some ballast on the left side! :rolleyes:

10-23-2009, 03:41 PM
Cool build! Why did you opt for mini-truck axles over LC axles? Better mate to the drive train? More width?

10-23-2009, 08:18 PM
more width, centered rear diff mated to the transfer case choice better.

Funny enough even with the wider axles I still need more width and will probably upgrade to full widths this winter. That and the toy axles will never hold up to 42's:D

10-23-2009, 10:13 PM
Okay next update rear 4link build

Started fabing the rear 4link after many calls to my 4 link specialist (you know who you are;) ) Spent a lot of time on the computer with the 4 link calc as this was my first 4 link build. Wanted to keep it simple and functional at the same time. My links are built from 1.5" by .250 wall, heims on both ends are all 3/4 heimsThis is probably going to be fine for the uppers, but im not going to be suprised if I need to upgrade the lowers to prevent bending.

Mounted the lowers first, with trying to keep it simple there is NO bling to the frame mounts just a piece of 2x3 streached across the frame rails.

Then I made some brackets out of 3/16 plate material and mounted up the lower links.




Did basically the same thing on the uppers, piece of 2x3 on the frame rails. The axle truss is made from 2x3 and and will be boxed in on the rear side.



Time for dinner, more to come later

10-23-2009, 10:56 PM
Okay with the rear 4-link fabbed up it was time to start on the front. I started by positioning the front axle to give me the 103" wheel base that I was going for.

Here is what I came up with

Ya I know there is a lot of other crap in this pic, but thats what happens when you try to stuff a vehicle, parts, tools and standing room in a two car garage.

With the front axle positioned I moved on to fabbing up some brackets for the front lower mounts. The mounts needed to mount on an angle and I needed to widen the frame. So I came up with these simple odd shaped pieces made out of boxed 2x3.


These will be welded to the inside of the frame rails flush with the bottom of the frame. The mounts for the lower links will mount to these and the frame rails. These will also form the bottom of the brackets for the upper links. Like this...


These are the lower link mounts made out of 3/8" plate material


Another lower link pic


Welded the frame brackets up


And then welded the link brackets up



And the lower links are in!

Here are a couple of overall shots from above of the vehicle with axles hung under it



For those who may notice I have kinda skipped over the upper links on the front. This is because one, I dont have any good pics of building the uppers, and two I was originally going to do a three link with a trac bar. This eventually changed due to many factors to a true 4-link up front. Will have pics of the finished front 4-link later.

After getting the axles under the rig I started cutting and rebuilding the front of the frame to gain more clearance for compression on the front axle.

Cut the front 12" or so off at the highest point and rebuilt the frame flat with 2 x 2 3/16






You can see in that last picture that the reason for rebuilding the front frame was to make space for the steering linkage upon compression of the front axle.

10-23-2009, 11:25 PM
With the frame done and the axles hung I moved on to a little bit of odds and ends that needed to be completed before starting to put the body back on.

Cut off the original sliders and finished stipping and cleaning up what was left of the frame.





With that complete I started to rebuild the body. The original place I sectioned the body at seemed like a great place at the time. Once I got the pieces back on the frame I decided that it would be easer to install the filler pieces if I cut the body further back in the middle of the wheel wells. So this is what I did as you can see here.


Started fitting the body pieces back together by welding in some sq. tube between the two both on the sides and on the floor. This next part was really hard for me because I am by no means a body guy. If it wasn't for the wife I would have just tubed out the rear and tossed the body. But she controls the cash so I thought it wise to keep her happy:shrug:

Here you can see the start of filling in the pieces on the wheel wells





10-23-2009, 11:44 PM
cool rig, nice welds.

Thanks for posting up the build, it's impressive!

10-24-2009, 12:03 AM
Confused ! Did you orgionally plan on a 4 link up front, the changed that to a 3 link with panhard? Or vice versa? Because the pic shows a 3 link but the text says 4 link

also you could Do a full hydro steering, eliminating the excess front frame extending past the tires. And then have a 90deg entrence angle

10-24-2009, 10:01 AM
cool rig, nice welds.

Thanks for posting up the build, it's impressive!

Thanks, I used to weld for a living so that comes naturally to me :)

10-24-2009, 10:04 AM
Confused ! Did you orgionally plan on a 4 link up front, the changed that to a 3 link with panhard? Or vice versa? Because the pic shows a 3 link but the text says 4 link

also you could Do a full hydro steering, eliminating the excess front frame extending past the tires. And then have a 90deg entrence angle

It was originally going to be a 3 link with panhard, further down the road I decided that it wasn't going to be driven on the street that much and I really didn't have the room so I switched to a 4 link with full hydro, I'll post up about that shortly.

90* entrance angle??? oh do you mean a 90* approach angle? it has damn close to that now, a lot changed from the original plans when I took it down to my buddies fab shop. More tools = better fabability!

10-24-2009, 10:34 AM
cool rig, nice welds.

I was thinking the same things, your welds are super clean and nice looking. You are flying! Are you updating this thing "real time?" Keep it up I am having a blast watching :popcorn: :thumb:

10-24-2009, 10:39 AM
:DI was thinking the same things, your welds are super clean and nice looking. You are flying! Are you updating this thing "real time?" Keep it up I am having a blast watching :popcorn: :thumb:

No its not real time....I wish it was :) The rig is actually finished sitting in my garage. I decided to wait untill it was done to do the build up post that way people dont get bored and dont ask me for updates and pics every 5 min :D

10-24-2009, 11:11 AM
With the one side done I moved on the filling in the floor between the two body halfs.


And filled in the other side so the body is now back in one piece!


I decided to sink the fuel tank about half way down into the body. I am running a 16 gal cell, no foam, with a sump. Here is the hole I cut in the body for the fuel cell. I also made a support frame on the top and a skid plate frame on the bottom to help mount and protect the tank when coming down off a steep ledge.



With the tank in I thought with the space around the fuel cell I would make a "trunk". I wanted to do this to keep the dogs from walking all over the cell while on the trail, and create some storage places for spares that would contain the parts and pieces in a roll. So I started making the frame work for that here.


The piece of 1.5 x 1.5 that runs in front of the fuel tank will be the foundation for a "wall". Then I will put a removable lid from there back to the tail gate.


Finally got it out of the garage for the first time since starting the build. While it was out there we sanded the body and coated it with primer. Now I think I should do something about those rear corners that are kinda hanging out there...

So we came up with these



You can see the little boat side we made inside the wheel well. I needed something to support all the weight and give that corner a "finishing touch"

Had my body buddy come over and throw some bondo and paint on these here is how they came out



I spent a lot of time thinking about how to finish these corners, and now that they are done, really like the way they turned out.

I took full advantage of having help for a couple days and he also cut out where the original gas tank depression was so we can make that flat. Then he built the tranny hump and covered up the gaping hole I had left in the floor.



10-26-2009, 10:54 AM

10-27-2009, 05:53 PM
With the body pretty much re-assembled I moved on to doing some small projects before the rig went to Aaron's for tube.

Ran some fuel lines, which isn't interesting so I didn't take pics of that. Just used 5/16 hard line front to back with a pump and filter in there some where.

Ran most of the wiring for the car, nothing really hooked up yet. I spent some time re-working the harness from the taco to turn it into a stand alone engine harness. For me this was fairly simple and straight forward. Grab dozens of schematics, decide what isn't needed and cut the wires out. Worked great for me I ended up having three or four wires that need to integrate to my custom harness in the vehicle. Wiring is my cup of tea, I used to do low voltage wiring for a living and vehicle wiring just comes naturally to me. Here are some shots of what I have so far.

Here is where I decided to put my relays, fuses, connecting blocks, diff lock ecu's etc...

Here is a shot showing where my engine harness comes through the firewall to the ECU...

Here is where the ECU and ham radio will live...

Finally got the vehicle out of the garage and up on the trailer ready to head down to the shop to get some tube installed!!


Once we got it set up in the shop we started building the cage work first. Now I had NO idea what I wanted as far as cage went so I kinda made this up as I went along.

Started with some cage feet, the top pad being smaller than the bottom pad. If I remember correctly the top is 4" sq and the bottom is 5" sq of 1/4" plate with 3/8" bolts attaching the two together.



The tube in my cage is a combination of 1.5" x .120 DOM and HREW. All the main structural pieces are DOM and the less structural pieces are made from HREW. Bent the first piece of tube, the main hoop set on top of the rear wheel wells and tilted back at about 10*...


Approx. the same angle as the windshield frame...


Then we moved on to some A-pillar bars...


Had to keep these as tight to the body as possible as there is very little room for pedals!


Moved on to putting in the side bars for the seat cradle. The notches on the main hoop of these where a PITA!



Finished the driverside seat cradle and installed some headache bars. I originally wanted to be able to remove the tranny hump, thats why the seat cradle is the way it is...turns out in the end it doesn't come out:shrug:


And an overall shot of what I accomplished this far...


10-27-2009, 06:33 PM
Moving right along....

Next I bent up the rear halo...lots of angles and stuff, but turned out great!


Different angle...


Random pic of the windshield bars...


Got the seat setting in it and checking for seat height...


Got the rear pillars bent up and tacked in...its starting to look like something



Starting designing the spreaders with the wonderful masking tape...too bad it doesn't really stick to tube that has oil and mill scale all over it!


Also added the remaining tube on the passenger side. One tube from main hoop to rear pillars and three tying that into the halo...I know "jungle gym" right...there is a reason, I am OCD when it comes to things matching and looking finished. You will notice that all the tubes in the rear of the cage match another tubes angle, and connect one bend to another point.



Got the main upper spreaders in and filled in the drivers side to match the passenger side.




Getting ready to put filler pieces in the top


And the filler pieces are in the top and I got the passenger side door bars installed


Good shot of the door bars


Rear of the cage is DONE


Looks like a spider web


Put in an x brace....TRIANGULATION....you can also see one of the coil overs peaking its ugly head up...


So this would be the point that I finally decided that the dash needed to go and I would build something similar. So i hacked that out and placed a bar at the bottom of where the new dash would mount


Also while playing with the rear suspension I decided that I needed more space for the tire. So got out the plasma and cut out the old fenders


That looks better


10-27-2009, 08:48 PM
Cool, wow that's a lot of tube.

10-28-2009, 01:18 PM
Cool, wow that's a lot of tube.

ya that is a lot of tube. Was originally supposed to be a "show" vehicle. Something to show off what we could do tube wise. I dont know how much tube is in the cage, but I know that there is approx 260' of 1.5" in the whole vehicle

01-04-2010, 07:01 PM
Finally got some time now that the holidays are over with to continue, if not finish it!!!!

Once I got the rear coil overs mounted up and ready to go I started tackling the front. This is where things got a little crazy. My original plan was to run a 3 link with pan hard bar and retain my marlin crossover steering. Then I let this crazy red head guy talk me into something completely different! Now the plan is to re-work the 3 link and turn it into a 4 link and run full hydro steering. I have to say this was a little over my head, but he said I would love it and he has been doing this buggy stuff longer than I so I went for it.

with out the need for a steering box we decided to remove the stock front frame and build something a little different:

With the axle removed I got out the trusty bandsaw and started hacking.
Cut the frame just in front of the motor mounts. Figured I should leave at least a little bit of the original frame ;)
From another angle...

With the frame cut off and thrown in the scrap pile I went over to the fab table and bent up a new front frame with integrated stinger. Threw in a couple of bars for the winch mount.

Pic of the frame from the front with the winch in position:


And another from a different angle


Took the winch off and welded the assyembly up before taking it off the table to prevent warping and installed it on the front of the cruiser.

Here is a pic from the front with the stinger/frame installed:


Side view with view of the tie in point on the original frame. Frame is cut at a 45* angle to provide more surface area to weld to and creates a stronger joint.


Here is an up close of the tie in point.


Starting to get the front axle back under the rig. Lowers hooked up and a shot to see what the front end is starting to look like


01-04-2010, 08:00 PM
why so much overhang in the rear?

Uncle Ben
01-04-2010, 08:16 PM
why so much overhang in the rear?

Hangovers are just payment for having a good time! .....wait....what....? ;)

01-04-2010, 08:16 PM
Took a break from working on the front end and removed the cage, installed gussets and welded it up. Moved it over to the paint booth and sprayed some gloss black on it here is a pic of it after some paint.


You can really see how much tube I put in the cage with it out of the vehicle. Surprisingly enough it still weighed right around or less than 200lbs as two of us small guys had no trouble moving it or lifting it.

Got the cage back in, thankfully it fit fairly easy with only minor heat warping


With that taken care of I started working on the boat sides/frame tie ins.

Started by cutting the body just below the floor and stitching in a piece of tube to the floor and the body. Then cut some scab plates and proceeded to fill in the area with...you guessed it more tube:



If it hasn't been obvious yet I have severe ADD, especially when it comes to projects I jump around like a jack rabbit depending on what I feel like doing at a givin time so bear with me.

I started working on the front end again by bending up some shock hoops and started cycling the suspension to plan for the new upper links.




One learns lots of things in building their first vehicle of this caliber or any caliber. In the next picture you will see what im talking about


So ya after cutting some holes in the hood to clearance the shocks this is what it looks like



Good shot of both shock hoops from the top and the bottom



Finally got back to working on the boat sides/tie ins

Here you can see how I integrated the main hoop tie in with the tube from the boat side. It might make more sense in a bit when they get skinned.


And the completed framework for the passenger boat side


with that done, I decided to start working on some of the sheet metal that needed to be done. Here you can see what the rear inner fenders look like. fairly simple design and I dont think it looks too bad


01-04-2010, 08:19 PM
Definitely come a long way since I was out there to get the box and pump. Lookin good man!

01-04-2010, 08:21 PM
hang over in the rear isn't that bad...that is to say I have seen worse :) Mainly that was an oversight of mine in the beginning. I have been contemplating getting some more link material and moving that back before moab this year. Lots of shelfs and stuff there for you ass to get hung up on...

01-04-2010, 08:21 PM
Definitely come a long way since I was out there to get the box and pump. Lookin good man!

Ya I remember when you were up here, I dont think I had much more than a frame at that point. Did that box work out okay for ya?

01-04-2010, 08:55 PM
With that I moved on to the front end again :)

I spent countless hours sitting in a camping chair smoking and looking at this front end. Trying to figure out how I wanted it to look and tie together.

Here is a shot of the side and the "fender flare" piece of tube:


You can also see that I have added tubes to tie the shock hoops into the stinger to support both. In some way these will all tie into the main cage...essentially turning the cage into the frame.

Here you can really see how the front end turned out.



Continued to tie everything in the front together. Here you can see how I am tying the shock hoops together and supporting the radiator


here is the driver's side tie in from shock hoop to main cage


and the same tube on the other side of the firewall


And the passenger side



got the rear shock hoops all tied into the cage. Had to REALLY tie these into the cage as the frame is now cut to clear the rear coilovers.


Finally got the front all done as well here is a good shot of the front...I know the purist guys will hate this cause I took so much of the 40 look out, but I like how the front turned out and hey at least I kept the hood and grill :)



Continuing to tie everything together in the front...almost done with the tube!!!


Hey look something other than tube...Got the dash cut out. Decided to keep the original glove box cover. Its just a blank for now, the :Princess: hasn't decided on gauges yet.


Got the driver side boat side skin tacked in.




New pedal bucket built and clearanced the original tranny tunnel for some more space for my fat feet. Then installed the pedals, Clutch is a 3/4 bore Wilwood w/wilwood pedal, brake is a 1" dual master tilton, and found a random gas pedal laying around the shop...


01-04-2010, 09:10 PM
Holy smokes man.

Reminids me of some of the road race cars we used to build where the stiffer it was the better. That thing is a rock.

01-04-2010, 09:14 PM
Holy smokes man.

Reminids me of some of the road race cars we used to build where the stiffer it was the better. That thing is a rock.

I think some of that stems from my roots in HS building stock cars. The other side of that...I tend to overbuild everything. Even with all the over building the un sprung weight was 2950 dry weight. I was impressed maybe these toy housing will hold up for a bit!

01-04-2010, 09:40 PM
Here are a couple more shots of the tranny tunnel and the engine compartment side of the master cylinders.



Added an inner fender on the passenger side to help keep the mud out of the engine compartment...YA RIGHT LOL


Finally got around to getting the upper front links done and started on the steering ram mount. I do have to say that I got in a hurry doing the cylinder mount and personally I think it looks like Sh*t



Got fed up with the steering ram and decided to move on to something simpler. Built the "trunk" lid, basically my fuel cell is half under and half in the floor. I build this upper floor to cover the fuel cell so the dogs wouldn't damage the cell. It also provides some nice contained storage space underneath. This lid also covers the rear suck winch so the dogs dont get their paws suck in that. Talk about a bad day on the trail!




With that taken care of I moved back to the steering system. Got the valve mounted and the steering shaft installed



Kinda got in a hurry and stopped taking pictures for a bit. Mostly boring stuff though, made a tail gate, mounted the steering ram, plumbed the steering system, finished up a bunch of little stuff and took it back home.

01-04-2010, 10:35 PM
Got a couple more pics left. About the only thing I had left was some wiring. This is my forte when it comes to building vehicles. I have automated so many homes and business that this stuff just comes naturally to me so lets see what you think.

I started by filling the dash with all the components. The :Princess: decided on autometer gauges, old tyme white IIRC. And I purchased contura rocker switches and plugs. I also ordered up some 16 position connectors to make a dash harness and a body harness. The engine is fairly self contained save for power and key position.

Here is the dash all cut out and ready for some bling


Got all the components in the dash and wired up. I elected to make a dash harness so If I needed to add something or fix a circuit the entire dash would come out easily and be placed on a work bench. No more laying on my back upside down in the seat to work on a faulty wire.


Here is a shot at one side of the connectors that connect the dash to the body harness


With that taken care of I put the dash back in the car and here it is the completed dash installed


With the wiring taken care of its time to get some color on this thing, im tired of looking at primer and bare steel. Here is some what of a shot of the color sprayed on the front tube work.


Ahhhh painting sucks, but its nice to finally see a somewhat finished product


Here is a shot of the finished cruiserish thing.


If anybody wants some pics of anything that I didn't cover just hit me up ill be happy to post pics.

On a side note Im going to post a couple of pics just for UB since he likes to make fun of me for them any chance he can get :D





Uncle Ben
01-05-2010, 12:08 AM
On a side note Im going to post a couple of pics just for UB since he likes to make fun of me for them any chance he can get :D




How well does the fork lift do in the mud? :p:

01-05-2010, 12:51 AM
Wow, that thing is bad-ass! Thanks for taking the time to post all the pictures. It was very cool reading over your project.

01-05-2010, 01:06 AM
Ditto on that :thumb:

Way :cool:

01-05-2010, 07:22 AM

How well does the fork lift do in the mud? :p:

It has like 6" of ground clearance, smooth tires, and no clutch It rocks the mud!

Uncle Ben
01-05-2010, 09:07 AM
It has like 6" of ground clearance, smooth tires, and no clutch It rocks the mud!

Scha-weet! Propane powa to boot! Nice Cruiser but I'm digging on the Atlas! ;)

01-05-2010, 09:19 AM
I think some of that stems from my roots in HS building stock cars. The other side of that...I tend to overbuild everything. Even with all the over building the un sprung weight was 2950 dry weight. I was impressed maybe these toy housing will hold up for a bit!

You're probably right, it really does look awesome though. Very impressive work. It does look bad ass and will probably perform as well as it looks. very very :cool:

Excellent work! :thumb:

01-05-2010, 09:49 AM
Very cool!

01-05-2010, 09:56 AM
Yes, thanks for all the documentation, very impressive.

Does the rear suck winch do the whole axle? Or do you have two- one for each side?

01-05-2010, 11:41 AM
Yes, thanks for all the documentation, very impressive.

Does the rear suck winch do the whole axle? Or do you have two- one for each side?

The winch does the whole axle. I thought about having independent control over each side, but the wife is already confused :)

01-05-2010, 09:16 PM
The winch does the whole axle. I thought about having independent control over each side, but the wife is already confused :)

Please don't confuse her too much.

If anybody wants to see more BEFORE pictures, I got plenty of them. Like that sideways picture up there.

01-05-2010, 10:15 PM
Please don't confuse her too much.

If anybody wants to see more BEFORE pictures, I got plenty of them. Like that sideways picture up there.

ya she is very confused at what everything does at this point. Funny I built it for her to drive and put what she wanted in it (kinda) and she hasn't even driven it on the trail. She did drive it around the caul-da-sac once, I think it scared the sh*t out of her. It was before the shocks were charged and it LEANED when she turned. :lmao::lmao::lmao: Funniest thing I've seen in a long time

01-05-2010, 10:19 PM
hollly tube batman.. now why did ya choice welded pipe instead of dom ?? i know you said show rig.. so was that the entier thinking the whole way.. lots of cheap tube to show skills ??? and make up for the lack of strength with more tube?? i like it. just :confused: were is that fab shop ?? id like to swing by and shoot ****..

01-05-2010, 10:43 PM
hollly tube batman.. now why did ya choice welded pipe instead of dom ?? i know you said show rig.. so was that the entier thinking the whole way.. lots of cheap tube to show skills ??? and make up for the lack of strength with more tube?? i like it. just :confused: were is that fab shop ?? id like to swing by and shoot ****..


Ya I got a deal on buying some pipe so I went that way ;)

The fab shop is actually a buddies GARAGE ya I wish I had it that good. We do a lot of small fab jobs for people, or slow rig builds as we both work 40hrs a week also. Still nice to have a place to go and spread out after starting in a two car.

01-06-2010, 06:07 PM
Looks Great! Cant wait to see it in action in Moab!

Whats the Wheelbase right now?

01-06-2010, 09:48 PM
Looks Great! Cant wait to see it in action in Moab!

Whats the Wheelbase right now?


It is currently setting at 103" Im thinking of moving the rear axle back some and stretching it to 108 - 109.

Mainly cause the rear of the frame and body is going to be an anchor.

looking forward to moab we'll see how it does on some real trails :D