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Mendocino
11-09-2009, 10:28 AM
I am about to replace my inner axle seals on the 75 40 and noticed that there is a rubber brake hose from the axle to the backing plate, and then a steel hose form the backing plate to the caliper. This means that I must remove a brake fitting and later bleed the brakes after reassembly. It seems to me that I should be able to run a flexible hose from: a) the axle connection to the caliper; or b) the backing plate fitting to the caliper. By doing this I could then just remove the caliper from its mooring, secure it with bailing wire while I work on the hub, and then later reassemble without the need to bleed brakes. Is my logic sloppy?:confused: If so please educate me.:)

TIMZTOY
11-09-2009, 10:40 AM
You are correct. BUT. Were the rubber hose is located on the knuckel. It dosent go very far when you turn because it's ontop "the pivot point" if you were to run a longer stainless flex line just make sure it's long enough when turning from lock to lock with good slack. You'll also have to add some kinda return spring to keep the long hose from rubbing the tire and blowing. So I'd just keep it the way it is. And just bleed the brakes. Give Jake somthing constructive to do.

MDH33
11-09-2009, 10:43 AM
Just use PB blaster to make sure you don't destroy the hard line and fitting taking it off. It will be easy to bleed if you don't let all the fluid drain out. I don't think I would replace the hard line with soft.

subzali
11-09-2009, 10:43 AM
On my FJ40, the block where the flexible hose and the hard line both connect can be removed from the backing plate so the caliper can be flipped around and set on the leaf spring without breaking the brake lines apart. On the FJ60s I think it is not bolted, but you should still be able to get the backing plate around and off the hub without undoing the brakes lines. I think. I know it can be done on FJ40s, just not 100% sure with FJ60s.

RicardoJM
11-09-2009, 10:48 AM
The 60 series had that top fitting (where the rubber hose and steel hose) riveted to the backing plate when they left the factory. If there was any need to remove the caliper housing, you have to disconnect the brake hose - which of course lets the fluid out.

Just about everyone (ok everyone but you and me:o) have drilled out the rivet and replace with a bolt and nut. This makes it possible to remove the rubber hose, top fitting, steel hose and caliper housing without having to lose the brake fluid in the system.

It is a real simple thing to fix and is a follow-up from my disk brake conversion that I need to go back and get done correctly. For now, I have the rubber hose direct to the caliper housing - bypassing the top fitting and steel hose. While I did put in new rubber hose at the time, I have added an inspection of that rubber hose to my list of regular things to look at because it would not be good for some flex to result in a compromised hose.

Getting this corrected on our rigs might be a nice winter project. :thumb:

Rzeppa
11-10-2009, 04:15 PM
You don't need to unhook the brake line, unless you are replacing the brake line at the same time as your front axle service. Don't forget new gaskets and hub seal when you do the axle seal.