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timmbuck2
11-09-2009, 10:21 AM
Who here as re-geared their 80? I ran 35's all summer and loved them, especially in Moab. But they definitely took their toll on the MPG and 'power', especially on the passes trying to tow a pop-up. Getting passed by semi's and RV's towing a Jeep is NOT fun. :eek: If you have re-geared, what did you go with, what do you run now for tires, what was the ballpark price, would you do it again, etc etc etc...

Thanks! :bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:

Tch2fly
11-09-2009, 10:33 AM
I switched to 4:88s and have run both 285 and now 315s.
I loved the lower gearing with the 285s and to do again I would go 5:29s for my 315s. Certainly not for everyone (I'm sure Nay will disagree ;) ) but I don't mind the rpm on the hwy.

Cost wise my experience won't help you because I also switched to ARB lockers and full axle rebuilds with OEM birfs and axles. (almost $4,000 for those who might ask)

Nemo
11-09-2009, 10:35 AM
I regeared early spring and I am running 35's. I am also SC'd so that helps a ton in the first place. 35in Toyo MT's as of now and I couldn't be happier with the setup. Gears are 4.88's. I can easily do 75 up passes loaded now. Can't say my gas mileage improved if at all, but I can state that I am no longer jumping to 4500 rpm and back to 2800 like I did. It holds strong at 3200ish up hills with less shifting so I think there is a benefit to wear and tear.

Can't remember what I paid to have Christo do it but it was somewhere around 1800? I had other work done at the same time so the numbers aren't accurate.

Hulk
11-09-2009, 10:53 AM
I'm running 4.88's and it's well worth the investment. Still need to do the speedometer correction.

timmbuck2
11-09-2009, 11:07 AM
I'm running 4.88's and it's well worth the investment. Still need to do the speedometer correction.

you running 35's?

don't think I would run 35's all the time, 285's most of the time and my 35" Trxus for Moab trips...

Hulk
11-09-2009, 11:38 AM
I'm running 315/75's which are pretty close to what 35's measure out to be (i.e. none of them are actually 35" tall).

I drove the 4.88s with 285's for a few weeks, and it is wonderful -- tons of power. I'd do that in a heart beat.

nakman
11-09-2009, 11:47 AM
Same for me, 4.88 and 35's and probably one of the more satisfying mods I've done.

If I were to do it now I'd go 5.29 and 36's.. but at the time a few years ago I didn't want to go so big in the 80. Now that I've got another truck that's no so big, I think the 80 should be bigger.. :)


Also I paid ThreewheelBen to do the setup, and 45,000 miles later they are still very quiet and very smooth.. and I've seen almost no metal come out in the gear oil, really impressive work. Of course he was LexusBen back then, so who knows today he probably just uses a crescent wrench and some duct tape. :lmao:

corsair23
11-09-2009, 11:50 AM
I'm running 4.88's and it's well worth the investment. Still need to do the speedometer correction.

Ditto...Matt told me I would love running 4.88s with the 285s and he was right...The LX actually feels "fast" :hill: - Spring time tire size will jump up to 315s. Also need to do the speedo correction as I went from the speedo being ~3% under to now in the ~12-14% over range it appears (per GPS) with the 285s...Not sure where it will be with 315s.

Cost wise you have the gears themselves (which I got from Christo) and many suggest going to the solid spacers as well (Christo again). In addition to the gears you will need to buy some parts for the gear install (bearings, nuts, seals, etc. in the 3rd members) depending on how much stuff needs to be replaced and how much stuff you want to replace (i.e. I elected to have new side/carrier bearings installed even though you don't have to). Then you have install cost (unless you can do it yourself) which will vary but figure $450 minimum if you take the 3rd members out to $750+ if someone else pulls the 3rds.

For me it made sense to do both the rear and front axle service at the same time since the axles have to come out. Rear axle service parts was minimal (couple seals and gaskets) since I didn't replace the hub bearings. On the front axle the cost was LARGE but that is because I went mostly new including a new knuckle, trunnion bearings, wheel bearings, etc. I got lucky and made a deal with the aftermarket warranty company...They offered $850 to cover the cost of Kuni just doing the front seals so I got them to give me that $$ to buy all new parts including the new knuckle and did the labor myself. If you've recently done the front axle service (which I think you just had done right?) then you should be able to get away with just inner axle seals (I went with the new Marlin ones) and the various front axle gaskets.

Not looking at any receipts (it would just make me :eek: anyway) here is my ballpark cost for swapping to 4.88s, or 5.29s (This is just for the gears, nothing extra included for the front or rear axle services aside from the seals/gaskets that must be replaced anyway):

Gears w/ solid spacers: $400-$500 depending on where you buy
Gear install kits: $500-$700 depending on where you buy and what you decide to replace
Labor: $450-$800 depending on who does the work and whether you pull the 3rds or have someone else pull the 3rds
Other: $200+ - gear oil (cheap stuff then whatever after 500 mile breakin), moly and wheel bearing grease, shims, various seals, gaskets, FIPG, etc. that need to be replaced once you start opening stuff up. All the "miscellaneous" stuff starts adding up quick

I might be missing something but all said I would guess you will drop $1500 or so at a minimum to go to 4.88s or 5.29s by searching for the best (cheapest) price, maybe go with cheaper (less quality?) gears, and do some of the labor yourself. Figure $2200+ if you buy local (i.e. taxes can easily add $200+ to the total cost) and just drop your 80 off and say "do it" :D

In the end I did a mix...I bought some stuff locally to support the folks that support the club, bought some stuff from CDan, had Ben do my gears but I did the labor part of pulling the 3rds etc. I did most of the labor myself in part to save $$ but also to learn, not to mention I needed to replace my AT pan (much easier with the front driveshaft out of the way) and my DS knuckle which would have added additional labor cost.

EDIT: Add in some $$ for speedometer correction...

Three Wheel Ben
11-09-2009, 08:29 PM
Also I paid ThreewheelBen to do the setup, and 45,000 miles later they are still very quiet and very smooth.. and I've seen almost no metal come out in the gear oil, really impressive work. Of course he was LexusBen back then, so who knows today he probably just uses a crescent wrench and some duct tape. :lmao:


Hey!!! That's a trade secret, and it was a metric crescent wrench.


:D

TIMZTOY
11-09-2009, 10:57 PM
Hey!!! That's a trade secret, and it was a metric crescent wrench.


:D

If you need I have a left handed metric screw driver and metric duct tape you can borrow. :lmao::lmao::lmao:

TIMZTOY
11-09-2009, 11:02 PM
Timm I'll pull the thirds for ya. Easyas hell to do as long ad the trucks no on a. 20deg slope. Lol And should save ya quite a bit. The fronts already freshend up. So ya only have to worry about the rear. Deffentlly reccomend solid pinion spacer. !!! And not like my opinion matters but I've got 4.88's and 35's and I love it. Great take off from lights. And good pull up the mountains (when running properlly) and good highway attributes

Hulk
11-10-2009, 02:26 PM
Hey!!! That's a trade secret, and it was a metric crescent wrench.


:D


Wow, an actual post from Ben! I'm rating this thread 5 stars! *****

Nay
11-11-2009, 05:47 PM
I switched to 4:88s and have run both 285 and now 315s.
I loved the lower gearing with the 285s and to do again I would go 5:29s for my 315s. Certainly not for everyone (I'm sure Nay will disagree ;) ) but I don't mind the rpm on the hwy.

Cost wise my experience won't help you because I also switched to ARB lockers and full axle rebuilds with OEM birfs and axles. (almost $4,000 for those who might ask)

5.29's are still low for 37's. Definitely not for everybody.

Do 5.29's :D

Uncle Ben
11-11-2009, 05:53 PM
Wow! Very impressive.....this thread brought out two lurkers! :thumb: :p::lmao:

Convert
11-11-2009, 06:39 PM
4.88"s and 35 12.50 swampers runs great but I would still like to be lower offroad.

Uncle Ben
11-11-2009, 07:04 PM
4.88"s and 35 12.50 swampers runs great but I would still like to be lower offroad.

I love my 88's and 35's! I can haul tail on the highway and crawl as slow as I need to at the mall. I have no intention of going bigger than 35". I even hauled the 40 on the flatbed to Holy Cross behind the 80 this year. Had enough power but had to back off a tad on the passes as tranny and passenger floor temps were pushing nuclear. 80 is just to soft to haul that kind of weight through the hills.