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jettaglxdriver
11-16-2009, 01:37 PM
How noisy should my fj60 transfer case be. It don't make much noise when accelerating but when I downshift it makes a humming sound proportional to the rpms it is turning. Does this sound normal or is my Tcase in trouble. I am going to check the fluid level in it.

subzali
11-16-2009, 01:55 PM
If it was an FJ40 I wouldn't worry about it but since it's an FJ60 I think you're due for new bearings at least :D

No seriously I don't think t-cases should make much noise. I don't know if they're helical cut gears or not though? I would check the oil level, then start checking the bearings for play...

corsair23
11-16-2009, 02:00 PM
If it was an FJ40 I wouldn't worry about it...

x2...not sure how any 40 owner can identify what is and is not making noise :hill: - On the drive home from the Nov meeting a real high pitched whined surfaced and I thought my SM420 was going to seize...Turned out is was the fan on my heater making noise :rolleyes:

jettaglxdriver
11-16-2009, 02:33 PM
This is for sure the drive line and only when in 4x4.

Rzeppa
11-17-2009, 12:14 AM
Yes, all LC cases are helical cut from 1974-up. In general, they do need to be rebuilt every so often. Marlin recommends 50k between rebuilds, but the newer split cases can go longer with the bigger idler. I have gotten ~200k out of older solid cases but that's pushing it. Generally the idler needle bearings go first, but if it is only in 4x4 it may be the front output shaft bearing. It happens to be the easiest bearing to replace, and you don't even need to remove the whole case, just the front nose cone. You can check it for play just by disconnecting the rear of the front driveshaft. Is it leaking there? That can be a sign of a worn bearing.

And obviously check the fluid level. When was the last time you changed the fluid?

Oh yeah, let me know when you'd like to pick up that block...

jettaglxdriver
11-17-2009, 06:45 AM
Thanks Jeff. Sending you a PM.

Red_Chili
11-17-2009, 10:24 AM
Yes, all LC cases are helical cut from 1974-up. In general, they do need to be rebuilt every so often. Marlin recommends 50k between rebuilds, ...
Every 50 bloody K?

Good grief.

Rzeppa
11-17-2009, 04:04 PM
Every 50 bloody K?

Good grief.

Marlin is probably referring to mini truck/4runner cases. Everyone knows LC cases are much sturdier...

:bolt:

rover67
11-17-2009, 04:24 PM
Mine had 225k when I "rebuilt" it the first time. Looked perfect with the exception of the idler... which wasn't that bad.

It was pretty quiet before and after the rebuilds.. you might want to do an R&R on the gear oil and see if anything comes out.

If it's only when in 4x4 that only leaves the stuff on that from output shaft like Jeff stated. It may be easy to address....

PabloCruise
11-17-2009, 05:06 PM
My t-case (in the 40) is pretty darn loud just in 2WD.

Unknown miles, the 40 was a plow truck before I got it, so the 4WD miles were probably challenging...

I need to go back and re-read Jeff Zepp's restoration page for how to rebuild your t-case. Does anyone have any other favorite t-case rebuild threads?

IIRC, it is the idler shaft and needle bearings that make things get loud?

Don't you need a press to accomplish certain parts of the rebuild?

subzali
11-17-2009, 05:33 PM
My favorite transfer case rebuild thread (http://www.atlas-tc.com/pdf/Misc/Orion.pdf) :D

Rzeppa
11-17-2009, 05:36 PM
Don't you need a press to accomplish certain parts of the rebuild?

A press makes things much easier and gentler, but a BFH and home-made SSTs work too.

Red_Chili
11-17-2009, 05:51 PM
Marlin is probably referring to mini truck/4runner cases. Everyone knows LC cases are much sturdier...

:bolt:
You can run... but you can't hide!!! :lmao:

I know they seem to be leakier, from the posts here at least.

(full disclosure: mine is seeping. Might have to do with a 3.4L V6, and a crossmember that is fairly rigid. Ya think?)

Seriously though... every 50K?

rover67
11-17-2009, 06:17 PM
No need for a press (at least with the split case ones), I have rebuilt several with a hammer and clever use of wood blocks, ect. It's really not hard. I have one semi apart sitting in the garage and could walk somebody through it on the phone or in person if need be.

the only bearing i have a tough time with is the tiny needl bearing that the front output shaft slips into on the rear output shaft. I tore mine up getting it out and just hammerend in a new one. sometimes they look great and I leave them.

Red_Chili
11-17-2009, 06:37 PM
...I have rebuilt several with a hammer and clever use of wood blocks, ect. It's really not hard.

I think I heard a surgeon describe his skills similarly. In fact, I don't know because in many ways I was not there, but I am pretty sure this approximates the process used in replacing my knee.

rover67
11-17-2009, 07:53 PM
In a british car manual it'd be SOP.

Except for the fact that there it'd say "fasion a tool of a sutable hardwood"

That always made me laugh.

Rzeppa
11-17-2009, 08:18 PM
Seriously though... every 50K? Yep, that's what Marlin told me when we chatted at the banquet at CM06. At the time, he just stopped by for the raffle, but was hauling a trailerload of trannies and t-cases with him to be rebuilt back to CA.

Seriously, that seems like major overkill. As I wrote, I've gotten well over 200k with no major issues.

Rzeppa
11-17-2009, 08:20 PM
the only bearing i have a tough time with is the tiny needl bearing that the front output shaft slips into on the rear output shaft. I tore mine up getting it out and just hammerend in a new one. sometimes they look great and I leave them. Which is the only other one I could think of which might cause a probable sound when only in 4x4. BUT...when in 4x4 there is no rotation on that bearing, which made me think of the front nosecone output ball bearing.

rover67
11-17-2009, 11:23 PM
Which is the only other one I could think of which might cause a probable sound when only in 4x4. BUT...when in 4x4 there is no rotation on that bearing, which made me think of the front nosecone output ball bearing.

agreed..

ElliottB
11-18-2009, 12:06 AM
Where would one get a rebuild kit for the transfer case? I might pop mine off and do it while the rig is already torn apart.

rover67
11-18-2009, 08:13 AM
I'd call Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters.

http://www.cruiseroutfitters.com/engineparts.html

The kits come with that idler shaft which as stated above is probably the most commonly worn part.

60wag
11-18-2009, 10:15 AM
Make sure you get the correct size idler shaft, bearings and thrust washers - I believe the two options were 32 and 36mm.

PabloCruise
11-18-2009, 02:37 PM
Wasn't there discussion as to whether the idler shafts in the aftermarket kits are inferior to the Toyota pieces?

Rzeppa
11-18-2009, 04:05 PM
Wasn't there discussion as to whether the idler shafts in the aftermarket kits are inferior to the Toyota pieces?

Yes indeed. Jerry Nichols down in the springs clued me in to that problem. Some are okay, some aren't. I had one that was no good, but caught it before I installed it. OEM are always okay.

There are a lot of places to get kits, and pretty much everyone gets them from the same couple of suppliers. I am sure Rising Sun members Joe Calleja of Colorado Toyota Specialists (CTS) or Christo Slee of Slee Off Road can get them. I am sure Jeremiah Proffitt of Proffitt's Cruisers can get them, Or Jim at Coyote Cruisers. Then there are the regular LC places like SOR, MAF and CCOT. Of course there are smaller LC shops across the country, from Mark's Off Road to Iron Pig Off Road to name a few who are TLCA member businesses.

You may even want to check with Stevinson, I wouldn't be surprised if they were competitive, and you'd know the idler shaft was sufficiently hard.

PabloCruise
11-30-2009, 12:20 AM
Every 50 bloody K?

Good grief.

I just found this great resource:

http://www.kinzers.com/don/landcruiser/tcase_tech/

In it, Marlin is quoted as saying every 60k...