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nakman
01-15-2010, 11:04 PM
I'm starting to mentally prepare for the camper I need to fix up prior to Moab.

Found this guy's site tonight, man if he didn't have a jeep he'd probably fit right in with a few here http://softsmart.com/popup/default.html


edit: so let's see some cool camper mods, I need me some motivation/stimulation.. :)

nakman
01-15-2010, 11:16 PM
Ok check out the last post on this page. this guy used flag pole bases to secure his awning poles to the camper frame- now those tie back into the camper, and he doesn't have a dozen trip lines running all over the place. http://edcforums.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=09a7b31e5a45ae984f2612ad1e375ab3&topic=19922.0

I may steal that one..

Hulk
01-16-2010, 11:49 AM
Plus you can hang lights on them!

pmccumber
01-16-2010, 12:18 PM
Ok check out the last post on this page. this guy used flag pole bases to secure his awning poles to the camper frame- now those tie back into the camper, and he doesn't have a dozen trip lines running all over the place. http://edcforums.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=09a7b31e5a45ae984f2612ad1e375ab3&topic=19922.0

I may steal that one..

Wow. I have a Cheyenne too. Some of that looks awesome. Guess I'll never quit spending money on things with wheels. I bought that SC thinking "At least it doesn't need stacks of $100 bills thrown at it". They might actually spend more money on their vehicles than this (offroaders) auto-demographic.

corsair23
01-16-2010, 05:43 PM
I'm thinking of trying to do a spring over on our popup...Never really looked into what that entails though...

nakman
01-16-2010, 08:37 PM
I'm thinking of trying to do a spring over on our popup...Never really looked into what that entails though...

I did it. take a good look at your axle, is it bent? A lot of them are bent up in the middle, like you lifted the whole thing up by the center of the axle with a floor jack- this is by design, so that when loaded the axle returns to a more level state.

So the "right" way to do a SOA is have someone weld you new spring perches, 180 from your current spring perches, so your axle bending is in the same orientation. If you just flip it over, then the bend is down in the center, and you may get uneven tread wear.

I actually learned all this about a year after I did the SOA on our camper, and figured at the time man if I am wearing out tires on the camper I must really be camping a lot. Then quickly quit worrying about it, as those tires still look brand new :o. so my advise is go for it, you can always weld on new perches later and it will be easier anyway with the axle already below the spring. The only other thing I had to do was extend the electric brake lines... piece of cake http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/smileys/electric.gif

60wag
01-17-2010, 07:38 AM
Lots of people do spring overs... most don't bother with the cut an turn and end up with vague steering... wait, what are we talking about? :)

Anyhow, yes the bend in the middle of the axle is there for a reason and helps the trailer to track better, better for tires too. Keep the axle right side up and weld on some new spring mounts.

nakman
01-17-2010, 11:08 PM
Alright so far there are two things I'm thinking of doing. One is getting a pair of these solar bunk end covers http://www.popupgizmos.com/bunkcoverpage.htm There seem to be lots of positive comments from just about every forum I've been to now, about how well they work at cutting down the heat buildup during the day inside the camper. If it's hot & sunny at BFE, this could prove useful. A little less important in Ouray in September..


the second mod I'm considering is an exhaust fan for the fridge- this also appears to be fairly common, with a lot of positive comments about effectiveness. Since I plan to relocate my fridge anyway, I'll be cutting new venting so that may as well include a fan right? here's one of many pictures http://drivergetaways.homestead.com/OurCamper.html and some switch and fan info http://www.popupexplorer.com/forum/index.php?topic=61249.0


I'm also thinking about adding that Reflectix stuff under the mattresses http://www.popupexplorer.com/forum/index.php?topic=74525.0 ok, 3 mods.

Old40Dog
01-17-2010, 11:24 PM
I did it. take a good look at your axle, is it bent? A lot of them are bent up in the middle, like you lifted the whole thing up by the center of the axle with a floor jack- this is by design, so that when loaded the axle returns to a more level state.

So the "right" way to do a SOA is have someone weld you new spring perches, 180 from your current spring perches, so your axle bending is in the same orientation. If you just flip it over, then the bend is down in the center, and you may get uneven tread wear.

I actually learned all this about a year after I did the SOA on our camper, and figured at the time man if I am wearing out tires on the camper I must really be camping a lot. Then quickly quit worrying about it, as those tires still look brand new :o. so my advise is go for it, you can always weld on new perches later and it will be easier anyway with the axle already below the spring. The only other thing I had to do was extend the electric brake lines... piece of cake http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/smileys/electric.gif

Alright so far there are two things I'm thinking of doing. One is getting a pair of these solar bunk end covers http://www.popupgizmos.com/bunkcoverpage.htm There seem to be lots of positive comments from just about every forum I've been to now, about how well they work at cutting down the heat buildup during the day inside the camper. If it's hot & sunny at BFE, this could prove useful. A little less important in Ouray in September..

Perches and solar bunk covers = 2?

If you need the perches welded, I would be available to weld them for you.

Then you only have to get the solar bunk covers. Easy to get done in time for Moab. :weld::

Just let me know if I can help. :)

nakman
01-18-2010, 08:23 AM
Perches and solar bunk covers = 2?

If you need the perches welded, I would be available to weld them for you.

Then you only have to get the solar bunk covers. Easy to get done in time for Moab. :weld::

Just let me know if I can help. :)


Only 2 mods on that post, later admitted to being 3. I am not even sure if a SOA is in the cards for me this year, I bought a camper than had been wrecked (fell off the hitch) so I have some remodeling to do.. thanks for the offer though Dave, I'll let you know... Corsair is the guy who needs to get this done so he can take his whole family to BFE :D

Old40Dog
01-18-2010, 10:29 AM
I'm thinking of trying to do a spring over on our popup...Never really looked into what that entails though...

Only 2 mods on that post, later admitted to being 3. I am not even sure if a SOA is in the cards for me this year, I bought a camper than had been wrecked (fell off the hitch) so I have some remodeling to do.. thanks for the offer though Dave, I'll let you know... Corsair is the guy who needs to get this done so he can take his whole family to BFE :D

Jeff, if you need some welding done, I'd be glad to donate the welder and the time for :beer: . If you have a 220 outlet in your garage or somewhere within about 10-12 feet of the project, I can bring the unit to you. Otherwise, we'll need to get it to my place near Evergreen. I have a flatbed trailer that should handle a pop-up camper if its not currently towable :thumb:

nakman
01-31-2010, 12:07 PM
Got a little bit done this weekend... tore out most of the trashed junk, removed the fridge and sink deal, ripped out the bad paneling. Now I can start to think of how to rebuild.. the plan today is where the fridge was, put in a small microwave, sitting on a new shelf next to the heater. Then underneath it and behind it will be storage, accessible by a door from the outside.

I want to put the fridge just to the right as you open the door, that way I can access it from the outside without entering the camper, also will be able to load it while the camper isn't set up. I have it sitting there now...

I'm wondering why there's a p-trap for the sink drain, my last camper didn't have one- does the rest of y'all's popups have one? I can't recall smelling any sewer smells without it, even while plumbed in at slickrock... today it's just looking like a place for old yucky water to sit and I am considering cutting it out. That's probably it for today, here's some pics though...

DaveInDenver
01-31-2010, 12:18 PM
Looks like first thing to add would be a rock guard for the front.

RockRunner
01-31-2010, 12:18 PM
We have a P trap in our camper. I think it is a good idea to keep it if you are going to be using some sort of sink/water set up.

nakman
01-31-2010, 12:27 PM
Looks like first thing to add would be a rock guard for the front.

I got this camper on the cheap because it had been wrecked- the PO didn't hitch it properly, then it fell off the hitch while driving, which of course meant they promptly slammed on the brakes, forcing the trailer to rear end the tow vehicle. So yeah, those holes in that plastic thing are from impact.. still scheming how to rebuilt that- either just plywood & maybe diamond plate, or possibly a box that surrounds the propane, that can be accessed from inside? We'll see, this thing is going to Cruise Moab so that's the deadline, I'm already starting to feel like I'm running out of weekends..

farnhamstj
01-31-2010, 02:58 PM
I'm planning to add solar 12v before this summer. Anyone have any recommendations? I've got a 1000w inverter waiting to be installed. I think a second battery is in order. I'm also considering stretching the frame to add a bigger deck to fit motorcycles. But I have to work out tongue weight and a few other things before I do that. I've very interested in changing out the 2" ball coupling to something more off-pavement worthy. We did a spring over in my friends camper last year. He just got new u-bolts. We cut the old ones and fliped the axle over so the bend was now facing down. I sugested welding on new perches but he wasn't listening. Pulls it with a big f350 and the trailer is light with no brakes. Seems to work fine.

Old40Dog
01-31-2010, 06:32 PM
We'll see, this thing is going to Cruise Moab so that's the deadline, I'm already starting to feel like I'm running out of weekends..

No worries....if you work every friggin' wakin' minute on it...:lmao::lmao::lmao:

Know the feelin'...we've got two projects we're trying to get done in time...:weld:...Good Luck, it's lookin' fine! :thumb:

I need to get back to the garage right away...:bolt:

corsair23
01-31-2010, 07:13 PM
I'm wondering why there's a p-trap for the sink drain, my last camper didn't have one- does the rest of y'all's popups have one? I can't recall smelling any sewer smells without it, even while plumbed in at slickrock... today it's just looking like a place for old yucky water to sit and I am considering cutting it out. That's probably it for today, here's some pics though...

Never looked that closely at ours, but one of the options on many of the Coleman/Fleetwood popup campers was a toilet/shower enclosure...Possibly they just install that standard as part of the build in case further down the line the toilet/shower setup gets added :confused:

On our sink we just drain the waste water into a bucket sitting under the drain hole and dump the bucket when it gets full....

nakman
02-01-2010, 08:38 AM
Never looked that closely at ours, but one of the options on many of the Coleman/Fleetwood popup campers was a toilet/shower enclosure...Possibly they just install that standard as part of the build in case further down the line the toilet/shower setup gets added :confused:

On our sink we just drain the waste water into a bucket sitting under the drain hole and dump the bucket when it gets full....

If this had the shower it wouldn't be where the sink is, would have been where I'm about to put the fridge most likely, but a separate drain. You dump your sink into a bucket? Not that you needed another project, but adding a drain would be a pretty simple mod... on ours I just reduce it down to a garden hose then run a 20' hose away from the camper. Then again it's just water & tooth paste, so maybe the bucket ain't so bad.. :o



Ok maybe I'll leave in the p-trap then, even though the stuff inside gives me the willies...

timmbuck2
02-01-2010, 09:37 AM
Isn't the reason for a p-trap to keep sewer gasses out? If you are just dumping to a hose out side is there a need for a p-trap?

A solar hookup would be awesome...sounds like a cool way to keep the battery charged in Moab.

A small microwave would be awesome, especially with the kiddies. Some microwave popcorn around the campfire? :) And they have small ones at Home Depot for $35...

Lookin good Tim! Much better than when I saw it last!

FJBRADY
02-01-2010, 09:53 AM
Never mind the pop up........who went all Shaq daddy on the hoop?

nakman
02-01-2010, 10:10 AM
Isn't the reason for a p-trap to keep sewer gasses out? If you are just dumping to a hose out side is there a need for a p-trap?



Yes, exactly. And precisely why I was thinking of just getting rid of it- it would be pretty odd for us to actually "plumb in" at a campground, where you'd use that benefit. And substantially less likely it ever happens again depending on how successful BFE is at CM. btw, your camper doesn't have one..



Steve, it was the wind that knocked it down, Gavin can't dunk yet-

corsair23
02-01-2010, 12:17 PM
If this had the shower it wouldn't be where the sink is, would have been where I'm about to put the fridge most likely, but a separate drain. You dump your sink into a bucket? Not that you needed another project, but adding a drain would be a pretty simple mod... on ours I just reduce it down to a garden hose then run a 20' hose away from the camper. Then again it's just water & tooth paste, so maybe the bucket ain't so bad.. :o

Ya got me there :hill:

As for the sink drain...I probably didn't describe it very well but I imagine it is similar/identical to yours where the water from the sink goes into the drain, down a tube to a connection on the floor leading to an outlet outside, underneath. On that I could attach a length of hose to route it away from the trailer or into a drain but we just use a bucket to catch the water at the outlet underneath :)

farnhamstj
02-03-2010, 01:55 PM
link for weight distribution.http://www.trailercanada.com/axle_position.htm
I'm trying to figure out if can cut the front of my trailer frame and extend it to fit 2 motorcycles on the deck. Issues currently are: current deck is 24" and rated to carry 200 lbs. I want to carry my motos 260lbs each. There are 2 propane tanks in front of the deck and a big battery. My thought is to take measurements. Measure actual tonge weight. Work the math with estimated weights and location of bikes, firewood, battery, lp tank. To see if this is even possible. Getting rid of 1 propane tank. saves 25 lbs. I've thought about upgrading to an E2, but that's a bunch more money and I don't want the bigger camper just bigger deck. I *think* I'm trying to add 24-30" of deck and 350? Lbs additional weight over the current max of 200 lbs. My camper is currently in storage, so at this point I'm looking for feedback? I've searched mud and some other pop-up sites. Also I'm planning on replacing the 2" ball to something more "off-road" thoughts or suggestions? pintle is off-road (I think?)

farnhamstj
02-03-2010, 02:17 PM
I have the smaller one. grey. I'd like to make it more like the yellow, but not yellow.

farnhamstj
02-03-2010, 02:26 PM
end up with something like this

corsair23
02-03-2010, 03:09 PM
Me thinks your biggest issue will be tongue weight...520lbs of bikes plus propane tanks, battery, etc. that far out on the "arm" will drastically change things.

Rezarf
02-03-2010, 03:33 PM
I modded this from a pile of steel ;) :hill:

http://i464.photobucket.com/albums/rr3/drew_frazer/DSC01537.jpg

:thumb:

corsair23
02-03-2010, 04:10 PM
I modded this from a pile of steel

:drool:

Corbet
02-03-2010, 04:33 PM
Farnham, what about putting the bikes or one bike on the back to balance out the weight? Does it have a receiver hitch on the rear? Add one and get one of that moto racks for a receiver then beef up the front for a single moto there.

Because I also think putting them both up front will screw up your tongue weight unless you add more behind the trailers axle, a lot more.

farnhamstj
02-03-2010, 04:39 PM
That trailer is most excellent. I enjoyed reading the buildup. Part of my goal is to rework the 2" receiver to something better. If you look at the pic's of the fleetwood, you'll see the A with the 2" coupling is welded underneath the fame. I have a 5" drop receiver ball to get the tongue height correct. I'd like to lose the drop and gain the ground clearance by having the mount parallel with the frame. I also want a better hitch that can tolerate greater angles than 2" ball. Plan is to ditch one of the LP tanks and remount battery and maybe lp. If you read reviews on the E1, It isn't really a true off-road trailer. I have the jeep of trailers.

corsair23
02-03-2010, 04:42 PM
I have the jeep of trailers.

:hill: - Beats having the Subaru of trailers like I have I guess...Not that there is anything wrong with Subarus

farnhamstj
02-03-2010, 05:07 PM
I've got to get real measurements and work the math. It's been a while. Can anyoneone help?

rover67
02-03-2010, 05:20 PM
how many feet is it from the original axle to tonge? how far out is the 30 lb weight on the new design?

i can do it pretty fast, but i need distances for each weight. just esimate them for each. I can guess, but it's mainly the original axle to tongue dist that looks wrong up there..

edit: looks like 8 feet. holdon a sec.

rover67
02-03-2010, 05:26 PM
on the first one assuming the 200lbs is at 6ft, the 60lbs is at 7ft, and the 40lbs is at 8ft that gives 242lbs tongue weight at 8 ft.(plus whatever the camper added if it wasn't balanced)

on the second one assuming the 520lbs is centered at 7ft, and the 30lbs is at 9ft it gives a 391lb tongue weight out at 10ft.(plus whtever the camper added if it wasn't balanced)

these are only rough estimates because the distances are guesses and the weights are approximate of course.. i didn't estimate anything for the battery moving either...

Red_Chili
02-04-2010, 07:25 AM
Farnham, I have thought the same thing. My little Starcraft 10 R/T would be Awesome! if I could figure out a way to attach even one dirt bike @ 240lbs (I think taking the 300lb. XR650R would be flirting with disaster...).

The only thing is, balance. Balancing the load is critical (DAMHIK) :eek:. If you increase the lever by extending the tongue you definitely have to rework the numbers and I am not confident on that. Then there is the thought of cutting into a perfectly good frame... like that should bother me after doing a SAS (but then, those bugs are all worked out). Where to put the propane? Certainly not on the back! And not inside! If I could figure out where to put the propane I could *almost* squeeze in a motorcycle rail.

Weight and balance notwithstanding, though, a longer tongue would make it more stable. I think.

Heck, you could go with an 11 R/T and not end up with a really large heavy camper. I dunno.

Red_Chili
02-04-2010, 07:30 AM
Farnham, you could go with one of these on the rear, put the other motorcycle on the trailer bed, and you would be set.
http://www.discountramps.com/smc-600-motorcycle-hauler.htm

http://www.joehauler.com/

http://www.joehauler.com/singlehaulers/355x220/image001.jpg

Tramontana on this board uses one regularly. Works really well. You would DEFINITELY want to make sure you didn't just put one on the back of the camper without balancing it though.

farnhamstj
02-04-2010, 08:15 AM
I have a tilting ramp like that for hauling my moto to and from the trail. It works great, sort of. BUT, I don't think I could, or would want to attach my trailer to the back of it. I think I could stuff one bike on the front the the trailer in it's current configuration if I moved the battery, and ditched an LP tank. By looking at Marco math I think it's doable. But like all serious mods it'll take some thought. I've learned just cutting and welding doesn't make things work right. Besides I don't want to ruin a perfectly good $10k trailer. GVW for the trailer is 3500lbs, dry it's 2500. If I can make it work and not exceed the 3500,and keep tongue weight about 350. Truck is rated to tow 5000 and I have trailer brakes. There is a 46 gallon water tank on the trailer. water's 8.35 lb/gal so 384lbs of water. We've camped for years with only 6 gallons of water and 2lbs of propane. My wife doesn't own a motorcycle yet, nor do my kids. I'm trying to work through the options and make safe decisions. I have to remember gas and fire wood too.

nakman
02-04-2010, 08:43 AM
Why can't you put the propane inside? Your motorcycle and propane tank can't share the same spot on the tongue?

You're going to have to pull that bike down before you set up the camper anyway, you'll already have the camper door open, so pull the propane tank out from inside and stick it back up on the tongue then hook it up- or just put the propane on the ground and hook it up. You don't even need to bother bolting it down as you're not going anywhere.. when you pack up it goes back inside the camper.

Red_Chili
02-04-2010, 08:52 AM
Gas accumulation in the camper make go boom.

Rear mount, get rear ended, make go boom.

Hey, I think you misunderstood. Put the Joe Hauler on the back of the camper!

That way, the rear bike balances the front bike and you are net/net the same tongue weight.

rover67
02-04-2010, 08:59 AM
How much tongue weight does the tralier have now when it's loaded and towing well?

nakman
02-04-2010, 10:21 AM
Gas accumulation in the camper make go boom...



I'm not buying that. There's a knob on top that you turn clockwise.. when it gets tight the gas doesn't come out. If secured upright next to one of your cabinets by the door that tank will happily ride inside your camper for a few hours while you get to your camp site.. even if it did leak, there's a lot of venting in there, and as soon as you open the door it all leaks out. And your only real ignition source, the furnace, is disabled when the galley is lowered.

Who doesn't have a bunch of green cans of propane rolling around under a bench anyway.. and heck those do leak!

Red_Chili
02-04-2010, 10:27 AM
Well, yeah... and I have carried a 25 lb. bottle inside... but still not sure I'd want to have them permanently installed there.

nakman
02-04-2010, 11:14 AM
That's the idea though, you wouldn't store it in there, it's just for transport. You only have the bottle inside when you have a motorcycle on the tongue.. the rest of the time that bottle can sit outside the camper, at home that extends to under the BBQ, or in the garage under the space heater, etc.

Suggestion to Farnham being remove the existing propane storage altogether, and use that space for your bike. Come up with a new way to bolt the propane tank(s) to the bike carrier for those times when you camp and don't want the motorcycle, and let the tank(s) ride inside the camper on the way to camping for those times when you do.

Red_Chili
02-04-2010, 11:29 AM
If it wasn't for the handlebars that might work for me too. It would, with a pickup.

nakman
03-30-2010, 11:20 PM
Ok so I got a little bit done this past weekend. I removed the shattered plastic piece from the front and replaced it with some plywood.. then experimented with a couple rows of flashing... :hill: pretty ghetto, I've already got a better idea but that's how it sits for now.

Inside, I rebuilt the main counter base, that was also shattered, patched the holes in the floor from the fridge and removed the grills from behind the fridge. I put the CO detector, its switch, a 12v outlet, and a 120v outlet all in the same panel, under the sink area. I needed these here instead of under the bed where they were, since my plywood front panel now doesn't have the depth of the old plastic front panel so the outlet work box won't fit, and I can't build that wall out on the inside or else the sink top won't flip down.

Took some head scratching and more than a couple cheap beers to get this far, but at least it's progress..

nakman
03-30-2010, 11:22 PM
that middle section above with the other outlet is where the microwave is going to go. Under that will be a tub that should hold most of the plates & utensils, stuff like that.. I am hoping to get the kitchen patched up this coming weekend so I can move on to more important things, like lighting. :D


Oh, and I ordered this flip kit tonight :eek: http://shop.easternmarine.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=5855&categoryID=172

nakman
03-30-2010, 11:51 PM
here's a good video about repacking wheel bearings.. http://www.etrailer.com/tv-repack_trailer_hub_bearings.aspx though I am cringing when he uses the claw hammer, screwdriver, and socket on the races.. I guess it's just a trailer, right? :hill:

anyone know if Kettleson or Camping World sells grease seals? I have no idea what size I need, and figure I'd have to pop one out then take it down to get 2 new ones the same size..

corsair23
03-31-2010, 12:33 AM
I put the CO detector, its switch, a 12v outlet, and a 120v outlet all in the same panel, under the sink area.

I know you know this but water and electricity don't mix well :) - Just saying because we've had our sink (actually the connections at the faucet) leak on several ocassions from a little leak to a full flood :eek:

anyone know if Kettleson or Camping World sells grease seals? I have no idea what size I need, and figure I'd have to pop one out then take it down to get 2 new ones the same size..

I'm betting Kettleson does for sure...They did the repack on my popup a couple years ago...Sharkbait knows one of the guys over there in the service department but I can't remember his name...Nice guy and once he made a connection between me, Rising Sun, and Hatfield costs came down and the amount of free/included stuff went up :D

Funny thing though is that they don't sell tires :confused:...Go figure :rolleyes:

Beater
03-31-2010, 07:06 AM
goodyear makes the best trailer tire in existence. my .02

RockRunner
03-31-2010, 07:50 AM
Tim,
I have used these guys (http://www.hitchcorner.com/) a lot for my trailer. I know they are on the SOUTH side :rolleyes: but you can order online from them or call them and have them ship it.

farnhamstj
03-31-2010, 08:04 AM
Nice work Tim. That flashing will take a beating from rocks being shot up out of the rear tires. What about getting a thin aluminum diamond plate sheet and cut it to size? Do you have a furnace? get a digital thermostat. The factory ones suck. Also Do you have hot water? the pilot lights seem to go out at altitude. Many people install a pizzio ingniter to auto relight if if goes out. I thought about switching some of my lights to LED's but decided for the price to buy a second battery instead.

nakman
03-31-2010, 08:49 AM
Farnham, good tip on the electric thermostat, I'll do that- agreed on the stock ones. We don't have hot water. As for the diamond plate, I'm going to try a big plastic sheet, similar to what you'd see on a bathroom wall in an elementary school. My neighbor came over last Sunday to see what I was working on, and that's the first thing he thought of.. he's a principal. Diamond plate would be better, but also more expensive and heavier.

Jeff- I know what you mean about the water, however I am running out of options. I could probably fab up a plastic shield for behind all those plugs to protect them from anything dripping from the top. But then again, that's why we have fuses and GFCI plugs, right? :hill: http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/smileys/electric.gif

thanks for the tip Tom, I'll call them and if they can tell me my seal size I'll have them ship me a pair. I don't have any manuals for my axle though so I don't know how many sizes are even out there, was presuming I'd just have to take a seal out first then have someone match it.

MDH33
03-31-2010, 08:54 AM
...As for the diamond plate, I'm going to try a big plastic sheet, similar to what you'd see on a bathroom wall in an elementary school. My neighbor came over last Sunday to see what I was working on, and that's the first thing he thought of.. he's a principal. Diamond plate would be better, but also more expensive and heavier.



I bet you could get a sheet of aluminum diamond plate (light weight) custom cut for that size for well under $100.

I can't visualize the plastic stuff you're referring too.

nakman
03-31-2010, 09:50 AM
Really? Where would I get that made? I was probably looking at $100+ for the plastic.. huh.

nakman
04-04-2010, 11:10 PM
Got the digital thermostat installed.. cheapest one was also programmable, so what the heck why not. Got my sink/stove thing installed and hooked up, and got the new paneling up in front and on the side. Installed the floor lighting, with remote dimmer switch.. :rolleyes: which has already been subjected to extensive testing, and passed.


edit: Coolest accomplishment is the wiring all works- had it hooked up to 12v, 120v, the inverter seems to work fine, all my plugs work, the heater works... cool now I can focus on more fun stuff.

nakman
04-04-2010, 11:13 PM
Also some under cabinet lighting, which is useful for hooking more stuff up to the new Blue Sea fuse block. Yes, my switch panel is a tupperware lid.. it serves double purpose as it also covers the hole left by the old, smaller, and missing fire extinguisher. I wanted something easy to cut, and this is what I had.. :hill:

nakman
04-04-2010, 11:16 PM
Question: On a dual battery setup in the camper, why wouldn't I want both batteries jumpered together the whole time? Is there any reason one should be isolated from the other?

corsair23
04-04-2010, 11:28 PM
Got the digital thermostat installed.. cheapest one was also programmable, so what the heck why not.

:thumb: - I should have read this earlier. I still had that digital thermostat you gave me last year you could have had back. Passed in on to my FIL for him to use maybe. :rolleyes: - If he isn't going to use it maybe I'll put it into the popup :thumb:


Yes, my switch panel is a tupperware lid.. it serves double purpose as it also covers the hole left by the old, smaller, and missing fire extinguisher. I wanted something easy to cut, and this is what I had.. :hill:

You crack me up :) - But I must say, it looks good...even has that "recessed" look :thumb:


Question: On a dual battery setup in the camper, why wouldn't I want both batteries jumpered together the whole time? Is there any reason one should be isolated from the other?

I'm an electrical noob but wouldn't you have the same concerns in a camper that you would in a rig that one battery could cause the other to discharge if they are not isolated? The schizz would be some sort of cutover device that sensed when your voltage dropped below a certain level the system would kick over to the other battery...That way your heater wouldn't go out in the middle of the night freezing everyone :)

nakman
04-05-2010, 12:27 PM
:thumb:


I'm an electrical noob but wouldn't you have the same concerns in a camper that you would in a rig that one battery could cause the other to discharge if they are not isolated? The schizz would be some sort of cutover device that sensed when your voltage dropped below a certain level the system would kick over to the other battery...That way your heater wouldn't go out in the middle of the night freezing everyone :)

Alright I'll buy that.. I have been under the impression that the isolator/combiners are mainly for charging, and since I don't really care about charging have been thinking why bother. But it's easy enough to make their connection either optional or not permanent, I'll come with something.. http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/smileys/electric.gif

rover67
04-05-2010, 12:57 PM
Why not just use a isolation switch and keep "critical" circuits on one battery (like the heater) and all the other stuff on the other battery?

Then you can leave it combined most of the time, or isolate them if you have concerns that the system may go down so much during normal use that you might be left without a heater.

you'd just have to remember to combine them for charging again I guess...

OR you could do the isolator/combiner you have in your truck and let it isolate the "critical" battery whenever they are not recieving a charge... and you could combine them manually.

Or just leave them tied together in parallel and know you have twice the capacity of a normal 1 battery setup.

either way use your fancy dual battery volt meter and be able to monitor both.

nakman
04-05-2010, 01:21 PM
That's what I'm going towards Marco.. just leave them hooked up in parallel most of the time. To separate, my isolation switch will be a crescent wrench.

I have thought about some battery voltage meters, I'd replicate the setup I've got in the 80 in a second if those meters weren't so dang expensive, the LED expenditures have kind of blown the budget here. For now I've got one of these:

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31rs8KfsF7L._SL500_AA300_.jpg

Uncle Ben
04-05-2010, 01:56 PM
Don't spend so much on one! Search "DC Volt meter" on Ebay and save big!

LARGEONE
04-05-2010, 02:19 PM
That's what I'm going towards Marco.. just leave them hooked up in parallel most of the time. To separate, my isolation switch will be a crescent wrench.

I have thought about some battery voltage meters, I'd replicate the setup I've got in the 80 in a second if those meters weren't so dang expensive, the LED expenditures have kind of blown the budget here. For now I've got one of these:

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31rs8KfsF7L._SL500_AA300_.jpg

Tim, I just got that exact voltmeter and it is working great!!! I'm having some bat issues in my car and switched it to my car and it's working great there as well. I'm going to order a couple more of them. They are cheap and make great gifts!!!

corsair23
04-05-2010, 03:23 PM
Don't spend so much on one! Search "DC Volt meter" on Ebay and save big!

Chinese made UB...tsk tsk tsk :hill:

Free shipping to boot :rolleyes:

Uncle Ben
04-05-2010, 04:25 PM
Chinese made UB...tsk tsk tsk :hill:

Free shipping to boot :rolleyes:

Ya.....your point? Nak stated he didn't want to spend a lot.....he did not mention it had to be manufactured domestically. I would guess the ones you would buy here from reputable US vendors are similar if not the same ones repackaged.

nakman
04-05-2010, 04:34 PM
It's not like that cig lighter thing isn't made in China either.. I appreciate the tip UB I may just try one of those. The Datel meters are really nice, and I guess you pay a premium for them being small, kind of nice having a lot of real estate to play with..

corsair23
04-05-2010, 05:39 PM
Ya.....your point? Nak stated he didn't want to spend a lot.....he did not mention it had to be manufactured domestically. I would guess the ones you would buy here from reputable US vendors are similar if not the same ones repackaged.

Just joking with 'ya, thus the :hill: smiley

Sorry for the hijack Tim :o

nakman
04-11-2010, 09:54 PM
Stereo installed, check. SOA complete (thanks again for the hand, Brent! :beer:). Front and side panel repaired much less ghetto, using plastic bathroom wall board..

nakman
04-11-2010, 09:59 PM
Bike rack, microwave, carpet, and outdoor courtesy lights. installed.

nakman
04-11-2010, 10:02 PM
And a final "mystery mod.." :grinpimp:

corsair23
04-11-2010, 10:07 PM
:cool: Tim :thumb:

So with the SOA, what size tires are you planning to run? Since the :Princess: put the kaybosh on my offroad trailer buy idea it would seem that SOA on the popup might have to be my Option B plan :)

nakman
04-11-2010, 10:11 PM
Well for now I'm running the same tires that were on it. actually doesn't look that bad, was really low before so now it's a more respectable height... I could probably go bigger but I think for now it's tall enough, not sure I'd benefit from bigger. we'll see how this trip goes.

And shoot, I just remembered I forgot to take pictures of my hillbilly dual battery setup. Guess you'll have to wait until Moab for that one. ;) :hill:

corsair23
04-11-2010, 10:25 PM
Well for now I'm running the same tires that were on it. actually doesn't look that bad, was really low before so now it's a more respectable height... I could probably go bigger but I think for now it's tall enough, not sure I'd benefit from bigger. we'll see how this trip goes.

And shoot, I just remembered I forgot to take pictures of my hillbilly dual battery setup. Guess you'll have to wait until Moab for that one. ;) :hill:

Roger...Can't remember what size tires you have but if you're looking for slightly bigger, I got a set of lightly used tires I'd make you a great deal on :D trailer tires 4 sale (http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showthread.php?t=10833)

Bet you my dual battery setup is going to be more hillbilly than yours...One battery hooked up and when it goes dead, install the second in its place :hill:

DaveInDenver
04-12-2010, 05:54 AM
Looks good Nakman. Jawbreaker on the stereo, the old punk band or have you started listening to Judas Priest? The mystery mod, am I supposed to guess? Antennas.

RockRunner
04-12-2010, 08:12 AM
Well for now I'm running the same tires that were on it. actually doesn't look that bad, was really low before so now it's a more respectable height... I could probably go bigger but I think for now it's tall enough, not sure I'd benefit from bigger. we'll see how this trip goes.

And shoot, I just remembered I forgot to take pictures of my hillbilly dual battery setup. Guess you'll have to wait until Moab for that one. ;) :hill:


I can't wait, I need to do that to my camnper. One battery is just not cutting it, I NEED PICS PLEASE!!!:o

nakman
04-12-2010, 08:13 AM
Man these are too easy for you, Dave. yeah Jawbreaker the punk band.. old favorite. and yup, hoping to hit the Colo. Connection from camp.. :) :yagi:

nakman
04-12-2010, 08:35 AM
I can't wait, I need to do that to my camnper. One battery is just not cutting it, I NEED PICS PLEASE!!!:o

The camper is already taken down, Tom, sorry man.. not sure if it'll be up again next weekend. So for now, imagine a group 31 under one of the bench seats inside, actually behind the axle. Then two wires running under the camper to the front battery. The + connection is disconnected from the spare battery currently at the battery, and the + and - connections are not connected at the front battery, but they have some small bolts & nuts going through them in the front battery box, with some rubber boots around them for added protection.

When/if the front one goes down, I'll decide then to either join them at the front battery terminals, or just join the connections with the bolts and skip the front battery altogether. The front one is a group 27 marine battery (not a fancy dry cell) that was a blem from Hensley, $39? The backup is the big group 31 Deka Intimidator blem from the big group buy last fall.

If both of those go down, then 3rd in line is an Exide Orbital from the 80's second battery tray- I can then put the 27 marine in the 80 to charge while wheeling that day. And battery 4 would be the 80's red top, followed by a set of jumper cables. :hill:

Jacket
04-12-2010, 11:18 AM
Man these are too easy for you, Dave. yeah Jawbreaker the punk band.. old favorite. and yup, hoping to hit the Colo. Connection from camp.. :) :yagi:

I was going to guess potato launcher....

Trailer looks great. Nothing like having a deadline at the end of the month to get you motivated!

rover67
04-12-2010, 11:28 AM
A deadline in 12 days now....

that'd be sweet if we could hit the colorado connection from camp..

wesintl
04-12-2010, 11:29 AM
i plan on hitting you from the top of rabbit valley on wed evening.

nakman
04-12-2010, 11:41 AM
i plan on hitting you from the top of rabbit valley on wed evening.

we'll be listening... I was able to hear the GJ repeater in the 80 from as far away as the Bar-M, but it was pretty scratchy, that was using the longer Diamond antenna. So fingers crossed this directional thingamabob on a 20' tower from 6100' will go the distance. If so I'll post up from town..

RockRunner
04-12-2010, 12:02 PM
I only have 11, got to spend all day Friday, my off Friday, with my mother shopping for Granite and kitchen stuff.:tongue2::bawl::drool::banghead::help::doh:

That should show my feelings :rolleyes:

farnhamstj
04-21-2010, 05:09 PM
I spent far too long today sorting out my 7 pin trailer harness. No Electric brakes and no rt turn signal or brake on rt side. Discoved the ground had rusted through and broken off the frame. and Green wire(I'm assuming rt turn) is broken inside the female side of the harness. All super corroded. Cleaned it up and tried to turn a screw. It just broke. I've been to Carquest already and ACE harware. Back to Carquest tomorow for a new female side of the 7 pin.:rant:

At least I still have tomorow. and a little friday morning. I'll need that rt turn signal for merging back into the slow lane;)

nakman
04-21-2010, 05:14 PM
On mine the green is the running lights... white is ground, and right turn is either yellow or red, can't remember. I wasn't able to get the brakes going, or the 12v charger for that matter, but I have legit lights and am Utah bound.

farnhamstj
04-22-2010, 11:34 AM
:banghead:

Replaced the connection on the truck. I now have turn, brake, running lights, acc power but still no power brakes. As I'm on this side of the mountains going to Moab, I'm not going to worry about it anymore before this trip. All the wires look good as much as I can trace. It seem to me when I step on the brakes with the trailer hooked up a circuit breaker for the brakes pops. My wife has had enough "helping me"

So free beer to anyone willing to trouble shoot in BFE!

Got someone stopping by this afternoon to hook up the trailer and tow it arround the block the verify it not the trailer with a problem.

Green was the rt turn, So I fixed that anyway.

corsair23
04-22-2010, 12:00 PM
:banghead:
It seem to me when I step on the brakes with the trailer hooked up a circuit breaker for the brakes pops. My wife has had enough "helping me"

So free beer to anyone willing to trouble shoot in BFE!

Did you install the trailer brake controller yourself? For my controller, one of the leads from the controller (black wire IIRC) goes through a circuit breaker (automatically resetting type or manual) then to the battery. On my LX I installed an automatically resetting circuit breaker near the battery. That is where I installed mine anyway....

Looks like this --> link (http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d60.html) (note to self, get one of those boots :hill: - DAMHIK)

Here are a couple other links on trailer brake control wiring: Link 1 (http://www.easternmarine.com/em_store/tech_info/drawtite_diagram.html) | Link 2 (http://www.etrailer.com/faq-brakecontroller.aspx)

farnhamstj
04-22-2010, 12:15 PM
There are 2 of those. No, I didn't do the install. Kettlsen Kampers. IH812V

corsair23
04-22-2010, 01:30 PM
There are 2 of those. No, I didn't do the install. Kettlsen Kampers. IH812V

Might try swapping one or both out and see what happens after you give things a try with the other truck...That would be one of the for sure common things associated with the brakes. Should be quick and simple - Disconnect the battery, swap the breakers, reconnect. IIRC the circuit breakers are relatively inexpensive.

nakman
04-22-2010, 01:43 PM
Jeff are you talking about the thing that looks like this?
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31FdqeT2klL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

corsair23
04-22-2010, 01:52 PM
Jeff are you talking about the thing that looks like this?

Yep...That's the thingymajig :hill:

rover67
04-22-2010, 02:12 PM
I have an extra breaker I can throw in my toolbox.

wesintl
04-22-2010, 02:25 PM
add this diag for future ref.

http://www.fblong.com/Trailer-brake-%20wiringPlug-6&%207-pin-%20connector.JPG

timmbuck2
04-22-2010, 02:52 PM
hey Tim, did I miss what inverter you used? Would like to put one in your old camper...

nakman
04-22-2010, 03:02 PM
hey Tim, did I miss what inverter you used? Would like to put one in your old camper...

No inverter yet.. but I'd like to do a 1000 watt one some day. I've got an el cheapo 400w in the 80 that will charge laptops and video cameras, but it won't even run a 100w bottle warmer consistently.. :rolleyes:

I think if anything I'll just upgrade the 80's inverter, tough to justify dropping more money into something that only gets out a few times a year, plus I'll always have the 80 there too right? Also we're near 110 power anyway half the time.

For CM, I'm bringing a bunch of extension cords.. we'll just tap in to the main grid if we need to run the microwave.. http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/smileys/electric.gif :hill:

wesintl
04-22-2010, 03:07 PM
I'm on the lookout for a yamaha or honda 2000i... They are quiet

corsair23
04-22-2010, 03:16 PM
For CM, I'm bringing a bunch of extension cords.. we'll just tap in to the main grid if we need to run the microwave.. http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/smileys/electric.gif :hill:

How far are we off the "power grid"? The :Princess: is already worried about battery power lasting long enough to keep her and the kiddos warm for the entire trip...Shoulda, woulda, coulda gotten the dual battery setup in the LX finished :doh:

farnhamstj
04-22-2010, 04:12 PM
Jeff, get the wallmart version of this.

nakman
04-22-2010, 04:29 PM
How far are we off the "power grid"? The :Princess: is already worried about battery power lasting long enough to keep her and the kiddos warm for the entire trip...Shoulda, woulda, coulda gotten the dual battery setup in the LX finished :doh:

Depends on how far away the generators are. If you want to toss in a couple cords then we just may have enough to get there, but hey if your camper battery needs to go for a ride in my 80 for a day that's cool too, unless it's a mega 31 or something.

farnhamstj
04-22-2010, 04:59 PM
Is it really camping when you have 110v?

corsair23
04-22-2010, 05:47 PM
Jeff, get the wallmart version of this.

Safe for indoor use? Yeah, I know, Google it :hill:

Depends on how far away the generators are. If you want to toss in a couple cords then we just may have enough to get there, but hey if your camper battery needs to go for a ride in my 80 for a day that's cool too, unless it's a mega 31 or something.

Cool...I'll throw in a couple 50' cords. As for the batteries...bringing my two Deka blems hoping those will last the 4 nights. But if I can mooch power off the grid till bedtime that would help :D

Is it really camping when you have 110v?

Is camping in a popup camper really camping? :hill: I have a feeling though that those of us with popups are going to be :) campers compared to those in tents, getting wet...


Ok...done with the hijacking...Show us more cool mods Nakman :thumb: