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Caribou Sandstorm
01-18-2010, 12:47 PM
After researching the right tires size for my rig to a point of obsessesive behavior...And not currently willing to re-gear and go 35s..

I think I am going back to my 16" OEM set and 285/75/16 BFG KM2s..They will end of being about 11.3 wide and just over 33, at 33.1.

I may change my mind at the last minute and go maxxis Big Horn's. Only difference is that Bighorn's are slightly wider at 11.6

It really depends on the price I can get..

For me personally I think the 255/85/16s are just too narrow for my preference, at 10.3..

Plus the OEM rims are more narrow then my KMC by about an inch and hence present the tire slightly in a higher profile..

Feel free to weigh in if I am missing something.

So I am selling or trading in my black KMCs 16x8s and going to paint my OEM Alloy's gun metal grey, like my TRD wheel color.

Should I spend the money to powder coat or just spray Paint them???

Does anyone have a low cost Powder coat shop they like using?

Bikeman
01-18-2010, 01:11 PM
I think powder coating is over rated. Powder is all about prep, prep, prep. You will also have a lot of $$$ in them with little gain.

I wish I never had my sliders and bumpers powder coated.

If you get rock rash, it is harder to match the particular black of powder with rattle-can.

I use a green pad to rough up the finish, clean with a non-residue solvent,and rattle can it, using semi gloss or satin, same thing.

I touched mine up after getting back from AZ. Quick and easy.

Caribou Sandstorm
01-18-2010, 01:29 PM
Thanks Mike!

Was that your add in that new mountain cyclist mag?

I am cancelling all other bike mags subscriptions and giving my money to these guys, they are out of Gunnison.

DaveInDenver
01-18-2010, 01:32 PM
I think powder coating is over rated. Powder is all about prep, prep, prep. You will also have a lot of $$$ in them with little gain.

I wish I never had my sliders and bumpers powder coated.
My experience is a little different. My front bumper is powder coated (ARB), my sliders and rear bumper are spray painted. The bumper is with industrial Rustoleum and the sliders with Hammerite. The ARB takes a whole lot more abuse and is rusting a whole lot less. Mostly the sliders are getting peppered and rusting badly from winter road crap and grime. The rear bumper seems to be holding up to mag chloride better but the paint scrapes off a lot easier than the powder coated ARB. Bill cleaned and painted the sliders before we welded them on and I prepped, primed and painted the bumper before installing. It's tough staying after them since I drive my truck daily and to ski and stuff so the winters are always tough on things, just seems powder coat holds up for me better. Particularly with the sliders I've more the once thought about cutting them off and having them powder coated.

Beater
01-18-2010, 01:55 PM
i have powder coated my fair share of sculptures, and I have to say that "most" of the time, paint outperforms on items that get used. Now don't give me that powder is paint stuff, I know it is. You will find that true industrial 2 or 3 part coatings will outperform powder. Another issue is that people think powder is some sort of miracle coating and it's not. It takes maintenance just like paint, it oxidizes, and unless specific uv and chemical additives are added, it is more prone to damage than most liquid paints.

On my old 80 wheels, I used specificaly formulated wheel paint, and prepped the crap out of them before painting. you can by a masking ring from eastwood for touchups with the tires on.

You can also smear petroleum jelly or grease on the tires, then paint, and wipe off the grease.

rover67
01-18-2010, 02:11 PM
I used this place for the 40 wheels. I think they did them for 30 bucks each...

http://www.powdercoatingspecialties.com/Homepage.html

I think they charge a bit more for Al wheels.

They have lots of colors to choose from, and I bet you could get pretty close to that grey.

I've done wheels a few different ways:

rustoleum with little prep on original paint fr steel wheels (they peeled a lot)

automotive paint with GOOD prep in a body shop on Al wheels. - raced on them for years. did lots of sets this way.

powdercoated steel - seemed to do fine for a long time. don't have the truck anymore so i don't know how it is doing.


I did the wheels ont eh 40 with powder just because It was easy to drop them off and not even by a spray can, cheap, they look good, and I wanted to see how tough it'll be. Haven't even mounted a tire to them yet so I don't know how they'll do, but I'm sure they'll do fine.

the place I used did a really good job on them.

I think you could get by fine with wheel paint just like John says too though. as stated above, prep is key.

Bikeman
01-18-2010, 03:54 PM
The whole thing about it is, rattle-can cost next to nothing, and it has not peeled off my alloys. I did not use primer, either.

Powder is just plain costly, and that's why higher expactations are set.

Neither resists rock chips.

Bikeman
01-18-2010, 03:58 PM
Thanks Mike!

Was that your add in that new mountain cyclist mag?

I am cancelling all other bike mags subscriptions and giving my money to these guys, they are out of Gunnison.

Chris, did you mean Mountain Flyer?

That mag rocks! I have a suscription to that publication and no others.

We don't have any ads in there.

Loki
01-18-2010, 04:55 PM
I just rattle canned mine Rustoleum Flat Black. Used some aluminum Aircraft Paint stripper (from Checker Auto) then primed with Rustoleum Auto Primer and finished with a couple coats of Flat. Looks good, I'll have to see how they hold up.

Caribou Sandstorm
01-18-2010, 05:22 PM
Thanks for the tips you guys.

I called Marco's powder place. Super nice but alloys cost 100.00 each.

I think I am going to try to rattle can first. Strip them down with the stuff Paul mentions and give is a whirl..

I am being watched like a hawk from the lady that issue POs around here and I need to try the low cost option first.

Mike, yes that is the mag! I think there is an ad in there from a place called Bikeman.com, thought it was you.

Jacket
01-18-2010, 05:46 PM
Chris - Running 285/75 with stock 16" Toyota rims on the Tacoma typically results in some rubbing with the inner tire against the upper control arm. How much is somewhat variable (of course). Not sure if this is an issue with the FJC, but given the fact that Tacomas and FJC's have nearly the same front suspension design, it might be worth researching a bit before you take the plunge. It's the main reason why aftermarket rims are so prevalent with that size on these trucks.

SteveH
01-18-2010, 06:07 PM
I paint rims, but use powdercoating on the chip-prone stuff like bezels and front bumpers. Gray Rustoleum on rims seems to hold up fine on wheels for many years.

Steve

Caribou Sandstorm
01-18-2010, 06:16 PM
Thanks Steve!

I heard that today Matt from the folks at Discount.

I never had this issue, when I had my AT KO's on the OEM alloys. I am going to double check the comparison between the KOs and the KM2s, maybe the Bighorn 285s at 11.6 will be too wide then??

Which means if I go Big Horn, it will have to be the 255s.

DaveInDenver
01-18-2010, 08:20 PM
Thanks Steve!

I heard that today Matt from the folks at Discount.

I never had this issue, when I had my AT KO's on the OEM alloys. I am going to double check the comparison between the KOs and the KM2s, maybe the Bighorn 285s at 11.6 will be too wide then??

Which means if I go Big Horn, it will have to be the 255s.
Dunno if in 16" rims it's different, but in 15" rims the BFG A/T KO and the BFG M/T KM have slightly different tread widths in the same size tire. IOW, a 33x10.50 MT measures narrower than a 33x10.50 AT. So it would not surprise me to find that their actual section widths are also a little different in the same listed size. I only assume about the KM2 M/T being the same as the older KM. So a whole ton of what-ifs in my post I suppose...

rover67
01-18-2010, 08:28 PM
I'd paint them my self if it was gonna cost $100 a wheel to do powder coat them.

Pick a warm day for the project and do it outside.