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ttubb
02-08-2010, 01:42 PM
This is on my 91 4Runner with SAS. It sits on the RH frame. The P/S hoses go into it then are routed to the LH frame where the steering box is located. It appears to have two small hyd lines coming off the rear running to the rear brakes. Any ideas? First picture is of the P/S box, next two are in question. Thanks, Terry

Hulk
02-08-2010, 01:52 PM
Some folks have plumbed into the ps box to run a hydraulic winch. That's my only suggestion.

thefatkid
02-08-2010, 01:59 PM
That is for your rear wheel ABS.

Squishy!
02-08-2010, 02:01 PM
that Is For Your Rear Wheel Abs.

X2

Air Randy
02-08-2010, 03:26 PM
If I remember, isn't it plumbed this way so that if your rear ABS is activated it boosts the pressure to the PS so your steering is quicker? Allows you turn into the skid better, etc? I think the wires on the front of that module hook into the computer and increases the engine rpm when it senses the steering at full lock left or right to prevent the PS pump from killing the engine.

ttubb
02-08-2010, 03:42 PM
If I remember, isn't it plumbed this way so that if your rear ABS is activated it boosts the pressure to the PS so your steering is quicker? Allows you turn into the skid better, etc? I think the wires on the front of that module hook into the computer and increases the engine rpm when it senses the steering at full lock left or right to prevent the PS pump from killing the engine.

I know the vacuum module on the pump lets in additional air to boost RPM slightly when the pressure is high at full lock.

Thanks for the replies. The ABS answer now makes sense. This vehicle does have rear ABS. Terry

TIMZTOY
02-08-2010, 03:58 PM
were do the two little 3/16 lines go to?

ttubb
02-08-2010, 05:11 PM
were do the two little 3/16 lines go to?

To the rear brakes. That is what threw me. I could not figure out how the power steering would interface with the rear brakes.

Red_Chili
02-09-2010, 09:29 AM
I have a plasma cutter if you ever want to fix that.
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Red_Chili
02-09-2010, 09:32 AM
Hey, BTW... I can't see the outboard portion of your driver's side frame rail, but I can tell you that you REALLY REALLY want to plate the inside (and the outside if not already done) where the steering box bolts on. And angle brace it to the front frame crossmember. Egg-speshully since your radiator is nicely out of the picture!

DAMHIK. and DACHHK. (Don't ask Cheeseman how HE knows!) :lmao:

3/16" plate would be downright dandy.

Cheeseman
02-09-2010, 05:54 PM
Want my advice. Follows Red Chili's advice on plating. Oh yah reinforce the weld on the front cross member to the frame too, also !!
________
You Porn (http://www.****tube.com/)

ttubb
02-09-2010, 07:09 PM
Good points. It will be open for a while so I might as well break out the welder. There is a reinforced front crossmember just fwd of the radiatior. Are you talking about an angle brace from there to the frame? T

Red_Chili
02-10-2010, 08:09 AM
Right at the inside corner of the driver's side frame rail, where it terminates into the front crossmember. Plate the outside and carry it butted to the body mount. The rearward edge of the plate should be half-diamond shape to prevent creating a vertical stress riser. And, I would stitch weld it in the rear, instead of continuous - the body mount weld can and should be continuous IMHO.

Since it is convenient, you could carry the inside plate clear back to the motor mount. Bombproof.

Looks like you are using an Allpro/Marlin front spring hanger assembly. That nets more lift for longer springs (nice), but increases the leverage on that corner of the frame (not nice), so a couple corner triangle braces might help, or tie the spring hanger into your new plates one way or the other and distribute that leverage.

The hardest part is cutting to clear the existing bolt hole tubing on the IFS setup, a plasma cutter sure comes in handy. You can slice off that tubing to flat the surface but you still have to drill holes obviously... so might as well tie everything together.

The frames on IFS and especially SA rigs were never intended to absorb the stresses of crossover steering. They all crack sooner or later regardless of the spring hanger used (I thought my low lift FRORF hangers would alleviate the need for an inside plate. I guessed wrong. The offroad shop at Moab saved the day last year.)

For longer bolts I just grabbed some 1/2" Grade 8 bolts from A&A Tradin Post. Purists would $tay metric. Use locking nuts and fine thread. Might have to ream the bolt holes only slightly with a 1/2" drill.