View Full Version : 3rd Gen 4runner Hub Conversion

Big John
02-10-2010, 08:52 AM
Anyone done one since all of the suppliers of kits have gone outta business?
I'm having trouble finding out if the parts people are using on Taco's for this will work on a 3rd gen of the same vintage.

02-10-2010, 09:18 AM
3rd gen what?

Big John
02-10-2010, 09:23 AM
I did finally find this today.

Would still be interested in input from someone who has done it or even researched it.

02-10-2010, 09:38 AM
I believe Taco I4 front end parts are a direct replacement, but will leave it to someone else to confirm.

02-10-2010, 10:46 AM
Again, I'm not positive, but I believe you have to replace the spindles, axles, and hubs (not the locking part, but the entire unit), and, obviously, the lockouts, in order for it to work, but everything is bolt in. You just need to find a wrecked truck.

FWIW, just from 2 people I've read about, who had the 4 bangers in their tacos, with the manual hubs, and swapped to 3.4's, vs people who have 3.4's with ADD, the manual hub set up seems to be a bit weaker than the ADD set up, IE, people destroying multiple axles as soon as the added power of a 3.4 was in place. The issue appears to be a narrower, weaker outter axle stub on the CV axle itself. But that is just from observations of the naked eye, and not from actual measurements.

Absolutely NO testing to verify that, just observed from folks who've had issues around.



4runner luv
02-10-2010, 11:05 AM
I put manual hubs from a 95.5 Taco on my 96 4runner last year. If you don't mind ditching ABS (assuming your runner has it), the cheapest way is to swap out the whole steering knuckle/spindle and axle assembly. If you wanna keep ABS (it's almost impossible to find a Taco with ABS and manual hubs), you have to have the spindles pressed out of the Taco knuckle that doesn't have the ABS bung, get new bearings and seals, then have the assembly pressed into your 4runner knuckles. Installs same as it came out, except the ABS tone ring goes in place of the spacer. New bearings and seals will run at least $150 total (and that is if you are patient and find good deals). A shop will charge at least $100 to do the press work; however, 3 shops attempted and failed on mine. Had to take it to Toyota, and the press work was 300 bones. This is in addition to the parts from the yard (axles, knuckle/spindle assembly, and hubs themselves). I go a great deal on mine, came with King Coilovers, axles, brakes (which I sold), and a spare set of ball joints. All in all, by the time I did the install, and sold off the spare parts that were still useable, I was in for about a grand, but that did include the coilovers. Turned out great when I did it, but was a little more pricey than I had originally signed up for. I have factory exploded view PDFs attached that pretty much were all I needed. I did see some of the articles mentioned, but it's pretty straight forward if you have the diagrams.

4runner luv
02-10-2010, 11:11 AM
Oh, from people I have spoken with, the weak link after the manual hubs are installed is the ADD sleeve/actuator. Heard lots of stories bout that breaking, so the ultimate upgrade, is to also replace diff with a non ADD version. Course then you can't lock your hubs out before you leave on a snowy day when your not sure if you will need 4wd or not, and save yourself having to get out at a stoplight to lock in. Just my 2 cents... OK that's about a buck fifties worth after all my yammering.

02-10-2010, 11:13 AM
Hmmm. Sure you can- just lock the hubs and not the tcase, old school style?

4runner luv
02-10-2010, 11:18 AM
Well yeah, spose you are right on that one. I always seem to be one for over-complicating things though.

02-10-2010, 11:46 AM

Brother from another mother.

Big John
02-10-2010, 02:25 PM
Great bunch of info guys. Thanks:bowdown:
I've got a connection for the parts, just need to be patient and wait for them. Till then I'll keep gathering info and if this ever does come to reality I'll do a write up on it as there sure isn't a ton of info on it out there yet.

02-10-2010, 11:47 PM
I have been curious about this too, but this sounds like a bunch of work. What's the main benefit of doing this conversion?

02-11-2010, 07:48 AM
Locking hubs, saves wear and tear on the front end, especially CVs and boots. Maybe a LITTLE gas mileage but not much IME (earlier model truck, admittedly).

02-11-2010, 08:03 AM
I have been curious about this too, but this sounds like a bunch of work. What's the main benefit of doing this conversion?

That's the question. I had always heard from people like Steve Shaefer that the conversion gives you a "full floating" axle hub assembly so if you broke an CV\axle you could pull it out and drive without it. Otherwise it's "semi floating" and the outer part of axle\spindle has to be in place to drive.

Have have asked others like Oleg about this and they disagree and would argue that without this conversion if you broke a CV axle you could just pull it all out, cover up the open holes somehow and drive off the trail.