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View Full Version : Oils for the FJ-40


ttubb
02-27-2010, 05:26 PM
Being an "older generation" engine, I was wondering what everyone is using for engine oil in the FJ-40s. Articles on the older flat tappet engines indicate modern oils do not have the proper ZZDP additives to prevent cam wear.

In addition, I just saw an article about not using synthetic oils in the transmissions as they may eat up the bronze bushings.

What say ye? Any first hand experience with this?

zornff
02-27-2010, 05:39 PM
I run Rotella 15w40.

MDH33
02-27-2010, 07:01 PM
I run Rotella 10w40.

x2, sort of, rotella 15W40. Doesn't leak out past those old gaskets quite as fast. :thumb:

RicardoJM
02-27-2010, 07:46 PM
I run 15W40, what ever is least expensive. Like Martin said, it doesn't leak out quite as fast as thinner oils.

ttubb
02-27-2010, 08:07 PM
I run Rotella 15w40.

Do you run Rotella for the additives or just the viscosity? I have read of folks running diesel oil in these older engines for the protection. T

zornff
02-27-2010, 08:31 PM
Zinc.

nuclearlemon
02-27-2010, 09:17 PM
20w50

ttubb
02-28-2010, 05:42 AM
Zinc.

After reading a bit on this subject, I have decided the way to go is an additive. This appears to be the least expensive way to ensure the oil protects the cam lobes.

http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=121&pcid=1

DaveInDenver
02-28-2010, 07:12 AM
Articles on the older flat tappet engines indicate modern oils do not have the proper ZZDP additives to prevent cam wear.
This is a problem in more than old flat tappet engines. I think maybe with the exception of very modern engines designed for the lower zinc containing oils, all engines benefit from the zinc. The oil manufacturers are taking it out due to legislation and rules, not lube performance. It makes the oil more viscous so decreases mileage slightly, but this resistance to shear and break-down is why it protects better. Rotella is popular because being for OTR trucks it still contained the additives. Thing is I think that's no longer true, so there isn't an advantage to Rotella due to the ZDDP. I do know most racing oils still have ZDDP in them, but they are expensive.
In addition, I just saw an article about not using synthetic oils in the transmissions as they may eat up the bronze bushings.
Never heard that about engine oils, but certain gear oil additives are bad for yellow metals. The lubricant itself isn't the problem but the extreme pressure additives (usually sulfur-based) can corrode bronze and brass. This is mostly a problem for GL-4 gearboxes because they used bronze for the synchros and GL-5 oils usually are harmful to those.

rover67
02-28-2010, 08:30 AM
The Redline MT-90 which a few of us run is supposed to be good for the materials in the toyota trannys. There's lots of stuff online about it... Check it out. It makes the tranny shift "crisper" too. I think the syncros grab a little better with it.

As far as motor oil goes, in the 60 when it had the 2f I just put whatever 20-50 I could find in the summer in it and in the winter went a little thinner. I haven't had th 40 long enough to really do too many oil changes, but I just got rotella for the next time... it was the right price and seems like most folks like it. I haven't really done a whole lot of reading on it.

DaveInDenver
02-28-2010, 08:37 AM
The Redline MT-90 which a few of us run is supposed to be good for the materials in the toyota trannys. There's lots of stuff online about it... Check it out. It makes the tranny shift "crisper" too. I think the syncros grab a little better with it.
Meh, I ran it and my tranny didn't seem to care that it cost 5 times as much compared to Castrol GL-4 that it replaced. Problem is Hypoy-C went to GL-5 and I can't find the GL-4 version anymore.

Crash
02-28-2010, 10:22 AM
Forgive me for being an Amsoil fan and, yes, it is expensive, but it also touts being high in zinc additive: http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/amo.aspx It can be had for less than the price listed.

DaveInDenver
02-28-2010, 10:51 AM
It should be noted that the reason ZDDP has been reduced or eliminated in motor oil is it ruins catalytic converters (the film is flashed off the cylinder walls during combustion). That is the reason the API cannot certify Amsoil, too much ZDDP. Whether or not it matters, I dunno. I would prefer the EP features but it's also something of an urban legend that it's really needed anymore.

Cam blanks for 20 years now have been made of hardened steel and machined, so there is no mild steel to wear like years ago. The original Internet hubbub was a Hot Rod or something magazine article that suggested that the lack of ZDDP was why reground cams wore out faster. The truth is probably that in the 1960s and 1970s machine tools were not as good and so they made cam blanks from mild steel, machined them and then hardened them, so during break-in you were case hardening the surfaces.

Now the components are much better and there's less of that needed during break-in. That's part of the reason manufacturers now don't have nearly as complex of initial operating requirements on new cars. Anyway, when they used to regrind cams they would take off the case hardened face and with the lack of zinc the new cam would never harden properly. But it matters a whole lot less if the cam is made from hardened steel from the get-go.

So as catalytic converters started showing up in the 1970s and 1980s the API had to reduce the ZDDP requirements so that they would not ruin them. But lots of people still had their old 1960s and 1970s pre-cat engines that they were rebuilding. The available oil did not work for the old junk with reground original (from 1964) cams. Now very few people are trying to keep their old junk on the road and those of us that do are using new cams which would not be made the same as they did in 1964 and so it's probably not nearly as much of an issue. Still I dumped in zinc break-in additive on my new engine, although I don't worry too much about it for the regular oil.

Rezarf
02-28-2010, 11:38 AM
I filled my crankcase with grease, it runs awesome now... but start up is a bit tough. ;)

ttubb
02-28-2010, 12:46 PM
Cam blanks for 20 years now have been made of hardened steel and machined, so there is no mild steel to wear like years ago.


I have a new Toyota cam and lifters in my FJ-40. I wonder if they are made of the harder material now. T

PabloCruise
02-28-2010, 10:16 PM
I have a new Toyota cam and lifters in my FJ-40. I wonder if they are made of the harder material now. T

x2 - inquiring minds want to know!

Air Randy
03-01-2010, 05:28 PM
Just go with the diesel oil, as long as it has a "C" rating it has the higher anti-friction additives. All of the top line diesel oils that are rated for the new diesels have to be low ash so they don't contaminate the DPF's and they will be CJ rated.