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DaveInDenver
03-03-2010, 07:20 AM
What is the advantage or downside of each type of connecting link and hook? This would be to an existing standard woven-in thimble on a synthetic winch line, but I think the principles still hold for a swagged thimble on wire rope.

Clevis Slip Hook

http://safetysling.thomasnet.com/ImgMedium/a1196.jpg

Clevis Slip Hook with a gate;

http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/images/336765_med.gif

Or going with two pieces.


Slip Hook with an Eye

http://www.qdmew.com/product_images/20081217122731_916.jpg

Hammerlock

http://www.okoffroad.com/gifs/stuff/hammerlock-a.jpg

Double Clevis

http://www.cmindustrial.com/products/images/doubleclevisml.jpg

FJBRADY
03-03-2010, 07:26 AM
Is this a test?

DaveInDenver
03-03-2010, 07:32 AM
Is this a test?
No, just wondering. I'm cleaning up the winch I got from Jeff Zettl and he had the original Warn clevis slip hook with no gate and a second clevis slip hook with a gate. I've also seen the hammerlock + eye hook often.

Thinking about which one and wanted to know what experience tells people to use. My intuition says use a hook with a gate for one so that if the rigging goes slack the hook will stay on the recovery point. Second I like the idea of the hammerlock over a clevis pin because the shape seems like it would be a better fit in the thimble.



Obvious there are other choices for the final connection that I consider more specialized.


Viking's thimble (which is pretty slick, but having a hook also seem useful for things like pulling debris off the trail or something)

http://www.winchline.com/images-products/ST-yellow-S.gif

And fancy self locking hooks

http://www.liftandaccess.com/images/article/G120-Self-locking-hoolk-big.jpg

FJBRADY
03-03-2010, 07:38 AM
That's what I figured....just checkin.

I have the hook with the gate on the FJC and the hook only on the 40. For safety sake I like the gate.

DaveInDenver
03-03-2010, 07:43 AM
I would say the vast majority (what, like 98.3%) of winch lines terminate in a clevis hook with Viking's and a hammerlock + eye hook making up the rest. The reason I like the hammerlock link is that it's a radius so it seems to me that it would have more surface contact with the thimble where the clevis is only making normal contact with the thimble. I don't think the rope sees much difference between the types, just the thimble.

rover67
03-03-2010, 07:48 AM
I don't know what's best, but I use a shackle through the thimble on the end of the rope.

Stays put when winching, cheap, and strong. Just takes a minute more to screw the thing together.

Works well with the thick tree strap.

FJBRADY
03-03-2010, 07:49 AM
I would say the vast majority (what, like 98.3%) of winch lines terminate in a clevis hook with Viking's and a hammerlock + eye hook making up the rest. The reason I like the hammerlock link is that it's a radius so it seems to me that it would have more surface contact with the thimble where the clevis is only making normal contact with the thimble. I don't think the rope sees much difference between the types, just the thimble.

The only issue I have with the thimble is you have to attach a D-ring to it. Not a problem, but when I rescued the 4runner on Friday the hole on the frame was not large enough for the d-ring so instead I just used the hook. If I only had the thimble I would have had use a strap on the frame, which would not be a big deal....just another piece of equipment.

DaveInDenver
03-03-2010, 07:54 AM
Yeah, forgot about the shackle in the thimble, Marco. That is actually one option Warn mentioned as acceptable in their manual, too. And I agree about the Viking thimble being limiting to some extent. The hook is useful and with a regular thimble you always have the same option to terminate to the shackle. The most obvious advantage to the Viking is you are more likely to keep your fingers with it.

Uncle Ben
03-03-2010, 08:03 AM
The only issue I have with the thimble is you have to attach a D-ring to it. Not a problem, but when I rescued the 4runner on Friday the hole on the frame was not large enough for the d-ring so instead I just used the hook. If I only had the thimble I would have had use a strap on the frame, which would not be a big deal....just another piece of equipment.

Have more than one size of D-ring and every recovery bag needs ......

http://www.truckntow.com/images/PRODUCT/medium/R-RTJ3L.jpg

....because as you know there are countless unprepared folks out there that you will encounter on the trail with no hooks or attachment points, so rather than cut your recovery strap on their springs or bumpers use the hold down holes in the frame and get-r-done!

FJBRADY
03-03-2010, 08:20 AM
Have more than one size of D-ring and every recovery bag needs ......



....because as you know there are countless unprepared folks out there that you will encounter on the trail with no hooks or attachment points, so rather than cut your recovery strap on their springs or bumpers use the hold down holes in the frame and get-r-done!

I could learn many things from you oh wise one.:ranger:

waggoner5
03-03-2010, 08:20 AM
Thats cool stuff now. I need one of those thingys.

Uncle Ben
03-03-2010, 08:36 AM
Thats cool stuff now. I need one of those thingys.

Looks like Northern has them pretty cheap....http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200342876_200342876

I think I got mine from Rigid. I have an account so I'll check on a quantity buy....would make great meeting raffle prizes! It appears the one from Northern is not rated....the ones from Riged are....

DaveInDenver
03-03-2010, 08:40 AM
Looks like Northern has them pretty cheap....http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200342876_200342876

I think I got mine from Rigid. I have an account so I'll check on a quantity buy....would make great meeting raffle prizes! It appears the one from Northern is not rated....the ones from Riged are....

They have spec on the Northern Tool...

Additional Specs

* R (Ford) hook has 25,000-lb. breaking strength and 8333-lb. working load limit
* T (GM/Chrysler) hook has 16,000-lb. breaking strength and 5333-lb. working load limit
* J (Foreign) hook has 12,000-lb. breaking strength and 4000-lb. working load limit

I also understand where you're coming from UB. I have an old tow strap, one of the Wal-Mart decapitator specials with the hooks, that I carry for rigging misc stuff if I help someone without recovery points.

leiniesred
03-03-2010, 09:32 AM
I got my cluster hooks from AW direct. I've given away 2 sets, leaving me with just one.

http://www.awdirect.com/cm-grade-70-cluster-hook-t-hook-r-hook-mini-j-hook-93169/hooks/

corsair23
03-03-2010, 09:34 AM
Looks like Northern has them pretty cheap....http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200342876_200342876

I think I got mine from Rigid. I have an account so I'll check on a quantity buy....would make great meeting raffle prizes! It appears the one from Northern is not rated....the ones from Riged are....

Count me as interested :thumb:

Dave, my suggestion is to run the honking hook with gate that came off the M15K :D and call it good...You'll probably always be carrying a D-ring with you that you could swap to if desired. I've read good and bad about the self locking hooks, the bad being that they have a tendency to lock so tight you can't get them to release :confused:

If you aren't gonna run the BIG hook with gate, I'd gladly take it back and throw it on the M8274 that is on the 40 :cool:

LARGEONE
03-03-2010, 10:42 AM
Count me in on a "Group Buy" if there is one! Very nice.