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View Full Version : Need a 22RE Header Gasket


Air Randy
03-05-2010, 05:33 PM
Anyone have a 22RE header style exhaust manifold gasket laying around extra? The only replacement I can find has to be ordered and is 3-4 days out.

J Kimmel
03-05-2010, 06:20 PM
not sure if there is a difference between stock and header style but pretty sure I have a fel-pro in the garage if you want it, in Lakewood.

DaveInDenver
03-05-2010, 07:46 PM
Does yours use the stock gasket? I have an extra OE style for my LCE if it helps. Jerry @ Groove usually has one in stock, too.

AxleIke
03-05-2010, 09:47 PM
Meh, I used PermaTex on mine after two failures of OEM style. Been working fine for years now.

DaveInDenver
03-05-2010, 09:50 PM
Meh, I used PermaTex on mine after two failures of OEM style. Been working fine for years now.
Probably the #1 solution fer sure. This is how Dean does it too.

Air Randy
03-06-2010, 09:20 AM
The OEM gasket is very thin metal, more of a heat shield for the plug wires. That may work OK with the OEM exhaust manifold but it was leaking with the header.

I bought a Hedman header style asbestos gasket which solved the exhaust leak issue on the original motor, but when I dropped in the new motor yesterday I screwed it up.

What kind of gasket sealer can you use direct on an exhaust manifold like this that can withstand the heat?

JKimmel is your Fel-Pro gasket just the thin tin or is it more like a regular exhaust gasket where it is metal sandwiched over something else to make it thicker?

J Kimmel
03-06-2010, 09:52 AM
you can use ultra copper, I had problems with header gaskets leaking on an old CJ-7 years ago, every 4 months or so they would start leaking again. Finally I put ultra copper on both sides of the gaskets and didn't have any more issues.

J Kimmel
03-06-2010, 10:02 AM
here is the one I have, I'd run it and I wouldn't feel the need to use RTV either.

Air Randy
03-06-2010, 08:21 PM
That looks similar to my OEM one but it seems to have more material and thickness on it. Would it be possible to get it from you tomorrow (Sunday)? Send me your address and let me know what time would be good for you.

Thanks!

J Kimmel
03-06-2010, 08:47 PM
I am heading to Penrose early, meeting at the safeway that is west of I-25 on Lincoln at 8 AM, would you like to come get it there? Probably a lot closer than Lakewood :)

Air Randy
03-06-2010, 09:21 PM
Sure, I'll be there in my little red Audi. See you at 8 Thanks!

DaveInDenver
03-08-2010, 09:45 PM
Pulled out my spare exhaust gasket, Toyota P/N 17173‑35120. Measured about 0.0625" thick, layer of malleable material, layer of steel. Welcome to it.

Air Randy
03-09-2010, 08:33 AM
Thanks Dave. I ended up getting the same exact thing from Jeremy on Sunday. I took my old OEM gasket and removed the tin spark plug shield leaving just the asbestos part. I doubled that up with the new OEM gasket and so far no leaks. It also helps that the new motor has studs in the head instead of bolts for the exhaust. You can really crank on those puppies without worrying about stripping them out.

DaveInDenver
03-09-2010, 09:20 AM
Thanks Dave. I ended up getting the same exact thing from Jeremy on Sunday. I took my old OEM gasket and removed the tin spark plug shield leaving just the asbestos part. I doubled that up with the new OEM gasket and so far no leaks. It also helps that the new motor has studs in the head instead of bolts for the exhaust. You can really crank on those puppies without worrying about stripping them out.
Yeah, bolts are not right. I also don't reuse the nuts (or usually the studs for that matter), which I think is why most people have trouble.

The stud + thread locking flange nut is the way the factory did it. The nut has distorting threads when it's torqued, so when you remove them they are no longer sufficiently distorted to stay locked again. The eight studs and nuts come out to about $15 give or take and so that's obviously why mini truck people try to reuse them. Cheap bastards, most of them. If there's a way to save a nickel they'd do it and complain when it doesn't last. There's a reason why the thing lasted 250,000 miles from Toyota.

On my LC Engineering header I use all OEM long studs, 8 x 90116‑10067, and the OEM lock nut, 8 x 90179-10175. I also think people don't torque them down right since the torque setting needs to be higher than a standard 8mmx1.25 setting of 15ft-lb (I think) to account for the thread distortion. I think I used +5ft-lb IIRC.