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View Full Version : Tips for removing seized tie rod ends?


Jacket
03-10-2010, 09:32 AM
Good chance these are original - no rubber boot to speak of, and quite a bit of rust and gunk on the threads. Any sugggestions, especially for how to get a good grip to turn these suckers? And is there an easy to way to make sure they are right-handed threads? I've read that some are left-handed, but that it's inconsistent....:rolleyes:

DaveInDenver
03-10-2010, 09:42 AM
Heat, Aerokroil and a lot of patience. Or new tie rods and ends.

rover67
03-10-2010, 10:02 AM
a few hours in the derusting tank would do it...... Bring them by early tonight and i'll leave them till tomorrow.

you can try to hose them down with PB blaster or Deep Creep too.... for a few days.

rover67
03-10-2010, 10:03 AM
can tell RH of LH by the exposed threads.

Beater
03-10-2010, 10:44 AM
don't re-use if heating, especially if you get them above 350f core temp

Uncle Ben
03-10-2010, 10:58 AM
Good chance these are original - no rubber boot to speak of, and quite a bit of rust and gunk on the threads. Any sugggestions, especially for how to get a good grip to turn these suckers? And is there an easy to way to make sure they are right-handed threads? I've read that some are left-handed, but that it's inconsistent....:rolleyes:

Just buck up and go for new ones. OEM includes the tie rod!

Art Volmer
03-10-2010, 11:05 AM
MAPP gas and pb blaster. Heat a little, soak with PB, repeat a few times and should free up. Good Luck, Art

Jacket
03-10-2010, 11:15 AM
I've only got the drivers side torn down at this point - was hoping to just replace each end without replacing the TR.

I'll try more heat and PB blaster. Do you guys clamp the TRE with a locking vice grip or pipe wrench to get a better grip?

DaveInDenver
03-10-2010, 11:20 AM
I've only got the drivers side torn down at this point - was hoping to just replace each end without replacing the TR.

I'll try more heat and PB blaster. Do you guys clamp the TRE with a locking vice grip or pipe wrench to get a better grip?
Vice Grips work OK but to break loose frozen tie rods I have more luck with a big pipe wrench. When assembling very liberal use of anti-seize helps guarantee you won't need the pipe wrench in the future. I put enough of the stuff on that my tie rods look painted silver.

Drunken Ira Hayes
03-10-2010, 11:29 AM
You could try cutting a notch out of a large 1/2" drive socket to accomodate the ball stud and hit it with an impact (if available.) I've done this with some success in the past, hope it helps.

Brad

Uncle Ben
03-10-2010, 11:35 AM
MAPP gas and pb blaster. Heat a little, soak with PB, repeat a few times and should free up. Good Luck, Art

Another trick along this same line is heat and rapid cool with ice/snow then heat again. The rapid chilling will break the corrosion weld. My suggestion for OEM joint replacement was due to the fact that since the rust is established it won't be long until the new joints are rusted to the tie rod, and since the tie rod is included with the new Toyota joint kinda seems like a no brainer.

wesintl
03-10-2010, 12:53 PM
take the tre our of the arms then put them back in and put the castle nut back on only so it's not loose. then use a monkey wench on the pipe and put a piece of pipe on the monkey wrench if need more leverage.

are you sure they are loosening not tightening? :hill: one side is reverse thread..

Jacket
03-10-2010, 01:08 PM
are you sure they are loosening not tightening? :hill: one side is reverse thread..

I know!!! That's the part that concerns me..... I can see the threads through the split at the end of the TR, but I'm not sure I'm smart enough to visually deduce that it's "lefty loosy"....

I read somewhere (coolerman's site?) that the driver side is right-handed, and the passenger side is left-handed (reverse threads). I was hoping someone with recent experience could confirm.

It may make more sense to get a whole new TR like Uncle Ben suggests....

Uncle Ben
03-10-2010, 01:46 PM
I know!!! That's the part that concerns me..... I can see the threads through the split at the end of the TR, but I'm not sure I'm smart enough to visually deduce that it's "lefty loosy"....

I read somewhere (coolerman's site?) that the driver side is right-handed, and the passenger side is left-handed (reverse threads). I was hoping someone with recent experience could confirm.

It may make more sense to get a whole new TR like Uncle Ben suggests....

I don't think your understanding me.....when you get new tie rod end from Toyota for an FJ-40, I forget if it's the right or left is packaged WITH the tie rod! You can toss the new tube and use your old one if you want but I would use it if it was me!

TIMZTOY
03-10-2010, 10:03 PM
so did ya break it loose of not ? if not ive got the tool (http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=hand&item_ID=84242&group_ID=12959&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog) for ya.. not to brag but its the only wrench at our shop that can get stuck tie rod adjusters loose without heat and everyone in the shop is always borrowing it from me.. your welcome to come on buy and use it or borrow it.. or hit me up on the cell and i can grab them when i leave work and swing on by your house..

rover67
03-10-2010, 10:43 PM
Hey man,

I just checked my tie rods...

On the passenger side at the steering arm they are both left hand thread.

The tie rod end on the pitman arm is right hand thread, so the one at the pivot in front of the steering box is left hand thread.

the one at the pivot that goes to the passenger wheel is right hand thread.

clear as mud?

Oh, and as mentioned above, stick them all back on the truck and use a pipe wrench or a chain wrench to get them off if you really want to torque them.

Did you already get them off?

I should have just bought new tie rods with ends liek UB suggested.. instead I have new tie rod ends waiting to be installed like you.

wesintl
03-10-2010, 10:56 PM
dude, you gotta loosen up the collar and slide it over so it's not on the threads :eek:




just kidding. i hope you got that part :D

Rzeppa
03-12-2010, 07:51 PM
MAPP gas and pb blaster. Heat a little, soak with PB, repeat a few times and should free up. Good Luck, Art

X2. And I have found that a big sucka flat blade screwdriver in the notches on the ends of the TRs works better than a monkey wrench or anything you can get a grip on the out side smooth surfaces of the TRs them selves.

TIMZTOY
03-12-2010, 11:16 PM
the one on the right with the handle is a universal adjuster that most of the guy in the shop use its about $24.00 , we get ours off the tool trucks, i found this one listed with a google search and amazon had it,.. i bet you could find it at sears.. they work great.. i personally dont like it because i find it to slip more than the one on the left. the one on the right will adjust large and small adjusters i.e. small trucks and large 1 ton trucks..

60wag
03-13-2010, 07:25 AM
When I needed a drag link end for a 60, it came with the tube from the dealer. They didn't offer the end without the rod. Somewhere they musta figured it wasn't worth saving the old tube.

Jacket
03-13-2010, 06:45 PM
Wasn't working with the TR still on the Cruiser - just no way to get good leverage. So I pulled the whole thing off, and stuck it in a bench vise. Used a pipe wrench on the bar for opposing force, and a 2' piece of square tube over the TRE with all my weight. That did the trick.