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View Full Version : Attacking rust... 40 series


Rezarf
03-18-2010, 11:28 AM
So, I washed my 40 yesterday and the rust bug is really on the move now.

However, I am trying to figure out the best way of knocking out the rust on my 40, but I have a few questions.

On my front fenders I have rust directly behind each turn signal, and at the typical spot over the center and outter edge of the fender. Both of these spots seem to have some structural backing underneath them... thus causing the rust. My question though is this, for those of you who have attacked the rust in these areas, did you remove and replace the support structure too or just the sheet metal on the outside?

I guess I won't know until I cut into this thing whats really going on, I am just trying to get a grasp of what is beneath the surface that might need attention.

It is the same situation out back above my rear tail-lights.

Otherwise I don't have a ton of rust. The seam behind the doors where the tub and the rear fender meet at the rocker looks like it may be the next spot to go... not to mention my top is straight rotten.

I think this summer I am going to go hog wild on it and replace all the rust with new steel and squirt some fresh smurf blue onto it! :D

AxleIke
03-18-2010, 11:48 AM
Just MHO, but from your other threads, it seemed like you were getting ready to sell it here shortly. Just thinking it might not be worth the time to fix it all up, and instead spend the coin/time on getting the trailer ready for the new rig, if you are keeping the trailer.

Anyway, just my 0.02, I just hate spending time that I won't get to appreciate later on.

As for the questions, I don't have 40 specific experience, but its been my experience on the 4runner that you have to replace the affected areas, and then use a GOOD (3m or better) seam sealer where you've welded. It will cost a bit more, but its VERY worth it. Have to use a GOOD self etch primer for the sealer to work well too. depending on the spots you have to do, one can of primer may do the trick, but it'll cost you close to 20 bucks for the can. Figure 20 ish per tube of the seam sealer too, and you have to get a few, as it helps to be very generous with it.

I've cut corners on the products, thinking that the extra coin was just name brand, and its shown.

RockRunner
03-18-2010, 12:27 PM
Isaac,
What brands do you use and where do you get them? I am about to tackle some rust and need it to last.

AxleIke
03-18-2010, 01:19 PM
Isaac,
What brands do you use and where do you get them? I am about to tackle some rust and need it to last.

3m makes a decent seam sealer. There are better, but it gets pricey.

The etch primer I've used is sherwin williams top of the line etch primer, forgot what its called. Go to a sherwin williams auto and ask them about it.

Its one of those things where you really do get what you pay for.

AxleIke
03-18-2010, 01:23 PM
Drew, disregard the selling comments! Just saw your other thread! LOL!!!

SteveH
03-19-2010, 09:39 AM
I would (and have) cut away the front fender support from about the middle of the fender (laterally) outward to the lip. That support will always trap mud/water. The function of the support will still be there - at least to the middle, and that part that is left can be effectively cleaned. Another option would be to replace the metal and/or support, and drill the support and install a zerk fitting so that you can pump the entire 'trapped' area full of grease right after you paint it, and before you 'wheel it. This is hard-core rust prevention, I'll admit, but if a trapped area is already full of grease, it cannot rust.

Corbet
03-19-2010, 10:10 AM
Metal Tech tube fenders would be the best solution IMO but you loose the stock factor if its important to you?

bustanutley
03-19-2010, 12:22 PM
to truly fix the problem you will need to seperate the two materials. Drill out the spot welds, media blast, paint, then stick the two parts back together.

Air Randy
03-19-2010, 12:44 PM
Metal Tech tube fenders would be the best solution IMO but you loose the stock factor if its important to you?

If you deicde to go with tube fenders considering having Justin out at Redline make a set for you. When it's all said and done the cost will be about the same as building the MT kit and you will end up with something much stronger than MT's fenders. Mine were strong enough to withstand 2 roll overs with no damage other than spray painting some scuff marks.

Corbet
03-19-2010, 12:45 PM
or build them yourself. Your no stranger to bending and cutting tube.

Uncle Ben
03-19-2010, 02:25 PM
If you deicde to go with tube fenders considering having Justin out at Redline make a set for you. When it's all said and done the cost will be about the same as building the MT kit and you will end up with something much stronger than MT's fenders. Mine were strong enough to withstand 2 roll overs with no damage other than spray painting some scuff marks.

I have to agree! I bought the MT kit and was really disappointed at the 1 grade above closet rod that was used. Needless to say I will build my own. Justin does great work and Randy's 40 shows that quality everywhere you look!

Corbet
03-19-2010, 02:30 PM
I have to agree! I bought the MT kit and was really disappointed at the 1 grade above closet rod that was used. Needless to say I will build my own. Justin does great work and Randy's 40 shows that quality everywhere you look!

That surprises me given how happy I've been with the MetalTech sliders. But I have never seen the fenders in person. Oh well I've got my own bener now:D I can make my own once I get serious with the 40 again.

Uncle Ben
03-19-2010, 02:37 PM
That surprises me given how happy I've been with the MetalTech sliders. But I have never seen the fenders in person. Oh well I've got my own bener now:D I can make my own once I get serious with teh 40 again.

I was shocked also! The quality is typical MT...excellant! The thickness would fine if there was more support, one up brace in the stock local and bolted to sheetmetal in the stock locations is hardly a heavy duty solution to rock resistance.....but I'm no engineer...

LARGEONE
03-19-2010, 04:01 PM
Once you get all the rust out, another option is to Rhino over the support bracket and the entire inside of the fender (area). I did this on my 40 and was very happy with how much quieter the vehicle drove on gravel roads or when my tires kicked up a rock on the street. It also does very well keeping crap out of the brackets (no rust).

EDIT: to clarify, I'm not saying Rhino the outside of the fix...only inside the fender well.

Rezarf
03-22-2010, 04:57 PM
Metal Tech tube fenders would be the best solution IMO but you loose the stock factor if its important to you?

I have considered this too. I may look into it a bit more. I rub all the time off road, but I am as tall as I care to get... I can JUST fit into the garage now, if I go another 1/2" higher, I couldn't fit. So creating some tubes up front may be a good solution over all.

I have to agree! I bought the MT kit and was really disappointed at the 1 grade above closet rod that was used. Needless to say I will build my own. Justin does great work and Randy's 40 shows that quality everywhere you look!

I wonder how much time it'd take to figure out all the compound bends verses just paying someone to do the homework. Any ideas (ball park) what Justin is fetching for a set of these? I can weld them up and skin them.:thumb:

Drew