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View Full Version : Developed an 1FZ engine oil leak


Corbet
03-21-2010, 05:06 PM
Murphy must know CM10 is around the corner. I just recently developed an engine oil leak or its just recently enough of a leak to hit the ground. Every thing is wet with oil from the splash cover under the crank pulley to the axle housing. I have not crawled under her completely but it definitely coming from the front of the engine. I'm going to guess its the oil pump cover seal but where else should I look?

Found this thread on MUD, http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/72514-how-replace-oil-pump-seal-w-pics.html any other tips if this is indeed my next project

Edit: added pics

bigbluefj
03-21-2010, 06:15 PM
2 Banana job for sure, i'd also look at the power steering this is the only leak that i have right now making a mess..

Kevin

Corbet
03-21-2010, 06:29 PM
not PS fluid, Mobil 1 5w40 leaking out :( wish it was just PS fluid.

TIMZTOY
03-21-2010, 09:24 PM
front main seal ? which truck ? which motor ? could be a very easy wam bam thank you mam repair, could be a complicated involved oh my god repair taking most of the week end.. but i highly doubt it.. most are pretty freaking easy..

nuclearlemon
03-21-2010, 10:30 PM
great, when you're done, you wanna do mine? :D

i'll be tackling this soon.

Uncle Ben
03-22-2010, 12:25 AM
not PS fluid, Mobil 1 5w40 leaking out :( wish it was just PS fluid.

Get rid of the synthetic Kerosene and put some OIL in it!

wesintl
03-22-2010, 11:15 AM
what do you run in your 80 UB?

coax
03-22-2010, 11:29 AM
Murphy must know CM10 is around the corner. I just recently developed an engine oil leak or its just recently enough of a leak to hit the ground. Every thing is wet with oil from the splash cover under the crank pulley to the axle housing. I have not crawled under her completely but it definitely coming from the front of the engine. I'm going to guess its the oil pump cover seal but where else should I look?

Found this thread on MUD, http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/72514-how-replace-oil-pump-seal-w-pics.html any other tips if this is indeed my next project

Not sure if this helps, but if it ends up being the front crank seal I found that the bearing cage off the rear of a 40/55 works really well for seating the new seal. Kinda :hill: but the edges are already rounded on the steel, its almost exactly the same outer diameter, and the rubber lip of the crank seal fits nicely inside. I've also got a home-brew crank pulley holder tool, kinda rough, but anyone can borrow it (though not sure how to get it there). http://picasaweb.google.com/hobogoesrogue/CrankPulleyTool#

If it ends up being the oil pump cover seal, I found that if the Rad is out, an impact gun with the proper Philips bit set on a low torque works well for removing the sevens screws. Again, :hill: but I got all mine out with out breaking or stripping any. I had originally bought this http://www.amazon.com/OTC-3-8-IMPACT-DRIVER/dp/B000HT8I9O but even with the rad. out there is no room to swing a hammer hard enough to break the screws loose. Also there was talk on mud of using sylglide or something to get the seal to stay on there while replacing the cover. I just used black fipg, and I've got tons left over if its of any use to anyone.

Corey

powderpig
03-22-2010, 11:54 AM
I would clean it up first, it could be where the crank position sensor is as well. But the oil pump seal is a good first guess.
I usually use a #3 philips screw bit from a impact hammer set. It usually is on a 1/2 drive. I tap the bit in the screw and then with the 1/2 drive it comes out rather easy. It has been a while since I have messed a Japanese screw up with the #3 bit.
Good luck with it.

Uncle Ben
03-22-2010, 12:50 PM
what do you run in your 80 UB?

Quality dino. Synth is really good but for some reason the manufactures do not produce decent viscosities. 0w - ???? or 5w-????? is just too thin for older engines. I do run diesel grade 15w - 40 because I built my engine in forced induction design so my cyl walls are .001+" over bore of normal 1mm overbore to account for expansion from higher cylinder pressures. Dino also has greater cooling properties than syth but dino also traps and holds more water thus the reason you have to change sooner. I am a frequent oil change kind of guy....I want what ever is caught in my oil to go away.

wesintl
03-22-2010, 01:24 PM
Quality dino.

which is what? I dunno what is quality dino is anymore...

Uncle Ben
03-22-2010, 02:22 PM
which is what? I dunno what is quality dino is anymore...

.....generally anything that also carries an OEM classification. If the auto manufacturer will stake their warranty claims on it I will. I often use Rotella but as a rule anything branded by Chevron seems to be higher grade. Pennzoil is some of the worst crap you can use! Valvoline use to be a great oil but I have read more and more about it water sludging like Pennzoil these days.

Corbet
03-22-2010, 07:20 PM
For the record Kevin I run 5w40 diesel truck and suv Mobil 1. My engine has been very happy so far. But this is probably the longest change interval I've done. I have to look to be sure but I think I'm at 9000 miles now. Who knows if the two are related?

probably be he weekend before I can look closer at my leak.

Corbet
03-31-2010, 06:17 PM
edited first post ande added pictures there.

I might have to go and hit the carwash again now that the splash guard has been removed.

But post up your opinions. I want to call CDan beforethe end of the week to get parts in route.

nuclearlemon
03-31-2010, 06:30 PM
mine's definitely not the power steering pump and i have the wet areas and drips as your, plus. the area in my edited version of your picture area all covered in drips and mine's bad enough to leave stains in the concrete now. got my parts, hope to get it done this weekend

wesintl
03-31-2010, 06:32 PM
let me know how it goes ige. I've now got the same leak enough where my tie rod is damp where it wasn't before.

corsair23
03-31-2010, 06:32 PM
Mine looks similar but so far not enough to leave spots on the ground...Hopefully it won't get too bad until the HG goes (someday) and then I'll have to figure out what to do....

Corbet
03-31-2010, 06:37 PM
Mine is pretty bad. These pics today were taken post carwash and a complete can of engine degreeser. My tie rod, steering dampner, axle housing, and most everything behind are covered in oil/dirt sludge. I used a putty knife to clean off my splash guard. I leave a pretty good spot anywhere I park now.

I might just order everything up there and just do all of it. I'm going to guess all the seals are cheap compaired to the time involved to tear it apart.

waggoner5
03-31-2010, 07:03 PM
Crank pos sensor o ring is my guess, but I don't think you can buy just the o ring.

Inukshuk
03-31-2010, 10:23 PM
How about we 80 owners get together to do one and then do a bunch! When Matt and I got together to flush PS fluid the first one took a bit as we figured it out, but the second was like 5 minutes.
I have had a long term slow leak from the front somewhere and I am sure a new oil pump seal and new crank seal would be a good idea.
4/11? 4/17?

TIMZTOY
03-31-2010, 11:49 PM
if you've cleaned it all off, it should be pretty easy to locate were the leake is comming from.. im off tommorw (thursday) i can swing by and pinpoint your leak for you if you'd like. just let me know were you live so i can swing by.. odds are its just one leak and looks like several.

720-3 eight 3- ten 13

bigbluefj
03-31-2010, 11:51 PM
just an idea put some UV die in the oil and get a black light and you'll find your leak for sure thats what i did for mine...

Corbet
04-01-2010, 07:25 AM
if you've cleaned it all off, it should be pretty easy to locate were the leake is comming from.. im off tommorw (thursday) i can swing by and pinpoint your leak for you if you'd like. just let me know were you live so i can swing by.. odds are its just one leak and looks like several.

720-3 eight 3- ten 13

You want to swing by Durango? If so I'm happy to give you some directions:D

Uncle Ben
04-01-2010, 08:35 AM
Throw some baby powder on the clean engine and watch to see where oil "grows."

Corbet
04-01-2010, 08:54 AM
Throw some baby powder on the clean engine and watch to see where oil "grows."

I like that idea. Unfortuantly it just started snowing down here. So this may ave to wait until the storm passes:rolleyes: I really need to get parts in route.

Uncle Ben
04-01-2010, 09:12 AM
I like that idea. Unfortuantly it just started snowing down here. So this may ave to wait until the storm passes:rolleyes: I really need to get parts in route.

I'll wager it's the front crank seal and/or the power steering O-ring.

powderpig
04-01-2010, 11:46 AM
From your picture, it looks like the oil pump O ring. See how clean it is around where the oil pump cover mates to the timing cover in the corner. and it is dirty to the right of the corner.
But the 3 places it will leak is the oil pump cover, crank seal and the crank sensor.
Yes the crank sensor seal can not be replaced with out replacing the sensor(Toyota does not sell the seal seperatly, a $120 O ring).
While I have tried several things to fix this oil leak at the sensor. As long as the noise of the truck is level or up hill, you will not loose any oil out the hole if you try to repair it. I have taken the sensor out and clean it real well with Brake parts cleaner. Then used the black FIPG on both side of the seal, do not be stingy with it. Do not get any on the sensor face. Clean hole real well with brake parts cleaner. Bolt part in allow a couple of hours for the FIPG to set up(it will skim in 15 min), you want it to cure real well before you put crank case pressure or oil on it.
This has worked well on several applications where the sensor still is working and is cheap, compared to the price of the sensor.
Other products that I would think would work as well, The Right Stuff, Copper RTV by permetex.
Good luck.

Corbet
04-01-2010, 03:56 PM
Well I hit the car was another time today without the splash guard in the way.

Kevin, I tried your baby powder trick. Had no luck getting the powder up on to the engine but if I spring an oil leak today it should be easy to track it down on me.

Robbie, I kind of see where you are talking about but I hope these new pictures confirm it in your mind. Then engine is much cleaner now, for the moment anyway.

Todays pics:

powderpig
04-01-2010, 08:10 PM
The drip off the Oil cover is a dead give away. Beside even if it was the crank seal, you would be mad to not change out the oil pump seal while the crank was off. I do not believe it is the cranks sensor at this time.

Corbet
04-01-2010, 08:19 PM
Robbie, should I do the crank seal while I'm there? Or is that not worth messing with? Thanks for your help.

powderpig
04-01-2010, 08:30 PM
Yes, I would. It has age and would last a while more, but for 18-19 dollars for the seal. It is cheap insurance. Get some 220 to sand the vibration pulley seal area,then finish with some scotch brite pad in either the red or green(green is finer usually).

TIMZTOY
04-01-2010, 09:08 PM
just my .02 from a not so good photo.. sorry if im not correct.. what does the fluid smell like ? thats tipcially the #1 give away to what fluid is leaking.. i would also replace the front main and oil pan also.. it looks rather torn up, and looks to be seaping.

Corbet
04-01-2010, 09:21 PM
The higher up leak is the bottom of the oil pump cover, which is what I suspected from the beginning. It is definitely not PS fluid. I have had to add 2 quarts of oil since returning from the CM prerun. PS has held level.

Thanks Robbie for confirming what I suspected. I will order the oil pump cover seal/s and a crank seal for good measure. Calling Cdan in the morning.

TIMZTOY
04-01-2010, 09:28 PM
kewl beens ..:thumb::thumb:

wesintl
04-01-2010, 09:43 PM
you have a monster torque wrench for the crank?