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View Full Version : BFTW, what did you use


Corbet
04-02-2010, 07:09 PM
I need to source a BFTW

Torque spec for the crank pulley bolt is 309 ft/lbs. What have you used for a torque wrench, those of you who have removed the crank pulley that is. Buy, rent?

Corbet
04-02-2010, 08:02 PM
$489 is the best "deal" I've found so far. This appears to be non lableled Cornwell wrench. Same part number anyway. I'm sure Cornwell buys and relabels the tool.

http://www.freaksky.com/?m=cat&catid=92&page=1

nuclearlemon
04-02-2010, 08:38 PM
call around to the car parts stores that rent tools first, but if not, fleetpride here in denver (303 288 8108) has 100-600# tw advertised for $354.95, or you can get a torque multiplier for a few bucks less.

TIMZTOY
04-02-2010, 11:30 PM
Own it.. (http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?search=true&item_ID=76643&PartNo=ATECH3FR250&group_id=19918&supersede=&store=snapon-store&tool=all):thumb:
copy and paste...
Description:
TECHANGLE™ FEATURES
The Snap-on® TechAngle™ wrench eliminates the need for angle gauges and protractors, providing the most accurate and fastest way to achieve torque plus angle tightening sequences now specified by many manufacturers. Digital readout shows you your torque setting, and then changes to the follow up angle you desire. Not affected by ratcheting. Angle calculation based on the same gyroscope technology that keeps helicopters flying level.
• Applications include head bolts on trucks, passenger vehicles, motorcycles, snowmobiles and ATV's.
• Torque accuracy ±2%CW, ±3% CCW, 20% to 100% of full scale.
• Angle accuracy ±1% of reading ±1° @ angular velocity >10°/sec <180°/sec
• Each button has ONLY one function (power on, select unit of measure, increase/decrease fastener torque setting, increase/decrease fastener angle setting).
• Four-digit LCD Display shows unit of measure, angle, CCW and battery condition.
• All models include 3 “AA” batteries for power.
• Comfortable, non-slip grip handle.
• Stand on handle bottom keeps tool from rolling off flat surface.
• Seal key pad keeps out dust and grit prolonging tool life.
• High strength, sealed, ratchet head eliminates routine maintenance.
• Flex-head ratchet moves 15° in both directions.
• All models have a Low Battery Indicator and Auto Shut-off (after 2 minutes idle).
• Designed to withstand shocks without failure.
• Splash-proof, protects against water and most shop chemicals.
• Complies with ISO-6789-2003 and ASME B107-28-2005 Standards.
• EU/CE—DE, ES, FR, IT, NL, PT, UK.
• Includes storage case.
• Additional technical information is available at www.snapon.com/torque/techangle and www.torqueinlesstime.com.

nuclearlemon
04-03-2010, 12:40 AM
Own it.. (http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?search=true&item_ID=76643&PartNo=ATECH3FR250&group_id=19918&supersede=&store=snapon-store&tool=all):thumb:
].

$500 for a tool i'd use once, maybe twice...no thanks. i'll rent or borrow from work;)

powderpig
04-03-2010, 07:58 AM
the Tech angle for corbet needs is over $1k.
You maybe able to find a tool rental place in Durango. Look around a bit.

Air Randy
04-03-2010, 08:05 AM
I've never in my life used a torque wrench on a crank bolt and I've done my fair share of engines. A little dab of light duty locktite and a good 250 ft lb impact wrench will ensure it stays on forever.

powderpig
04-03-2010, 08:34 AM
The problem with that Randy on the 1FZ is that the drive gear for the oil pump and power steering is not keyed. It is held in spot by the torqued nut/ clamping the vibration damptner to the drive gear, that must be torqued to that number of 309. If the drive gear was Key, there would be no problem with doing your method. A few people have done you method and they lost oil pressure and power steering boost. I do know of a couple people that lost the bottom end bearing because of your method.

Corbet
04-03-2010, 09:45 AM
I checked with NAPA yesterday regarding renting one. They do not. But referred me to someone who might. I will check with them Monday. This is a tool I'd like to own but its alot of $$$. Then considering how often I use my other smaller torque wrenchs this one would probably just look pretty in the tool box the rest of its life.

Air Randy
04-03-2010, 06:40 PM
The problem with that Randy on the 1FZ is that the drive gear for the oil pump and power steering is not keyed. It is held in spot by the torqued nut/ clamping the vibration damptner to the drive gear, that must be torqued to that number of 309. If the drive gear was Key, there would be no problem with doing your method. A few people have done you method and they lost oil pressure and power steering boost. I do know of a couple people that lost the bottom end bearing because of your method.

That would be a bummer, sounds like another good reason to stay with the ol' 2F :hill:

Corbet
04-04-2010, 09:19 PM
Amazon

http://www.amazon.com/Split-Beam-Click-Torque-Wrench/dp/B000RT8ENE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1270433476&sr=8-3

This is pretty reasonable. Anyone own a Precision Instruments torque wrench or have any experince with them? Online reviews, not many, seem OK.

rover67
04-04-2010, 09:41 PM
We had one we used for lug nuts on the race cars. It seemed like a high qualilty tool.

The only thing I didn't like about it was that the numbers were hard to see.

Wouldn't matter for you though.

How much do you weigh? Why not stick an extension on a breaker bar out to the right legnth and litterally stand on it?

nuclearlemon
04-04-2010, 09:45 PM
from a pm between me and corbet, for those looking to do this....

fwiw, i'm just finishing mine now. getting the o/p seal out was the worst...had to just keep chipping it out. as the mud threads say, make sure you get a proper fitting #3 screwdriver tip. my first one didn't fit and kept wanting to slip out and strip, but the second one i grabbed fit great. if you buy new screws (i did, but turned out i didnt' need to), use on of the new ones to find a tip that fits. don't look at how it drops into the screw, but whether or not it rocks side to side...that's where it needs to fit tight.


and new info....the keyed section of the crank was at the top, around the 11:30 location, so i drew a paint stripe on the balancer where the key groove was and, once i got the balancer pushed on as far as it would go (just shy of the keyed area), i looked from the top down to make sure it was correct.

the bolt was stiff going in when i first started to "force" the balancer on, but a few turns and it was pushing the balancer on easily. i used a deep well 14mm socket on a "flywheel" bolt to hold the crank in place (hit's against the bellhousing at the inspection cover).

my tw only went to 150 and it's over 25 yrs old, never been calibrated and highly abused. still, to get to the click didnt' take much. went to work to borrow a big tw from one of the techs (a 250...the only thing above that went to 600 and came with a 5' handle). i did increments, 175, 190, 220, and 250, and the movement on the bolt is so minimal that it's barely noticeable. from there, i figured another barely noticeable bump would put me at 300.

i used a breaker bar after 250 (didnt' want to damage john's tw), and it literally seemed like it wouldn;t budge. hopefully all is fine. i fired up the cruiser and it has great oil pressure, so that's a good sign i think.

hope this and zanes mud post help future cruiserheads out.

Corbet
04-04-2010, 10:06 PM
Thanks Ige for the tips.

Marco, at my weight the 1/2" breaker I have is 18" long so if I stood on the very end that would be 300 ft/lbs. But I'd feel better about using the proper tool. I'll still see if I can track down a rental but $350 is a lot easier to stomach than $600+ I've never regretted having the proper tool for the job in the past.