View Full Version : Ford 9 inch help
04-14-2010, 09:41 AM
I know this is out of the relm of Yotas but does anyone know how to work on a Ford 9 inch here? I would like to change the yoke to a 1350 on both ends and i believe its leaking somewhere, not sure where though. Thanks in advance....
04-14-2010, 10:05 AM
Are you talking about the drive shaft yoke on the diff pinion? I've done a fair amount of work on Ford drive trains in the past, not radically different than working on FJ40/60 stuff.
04-14-2010, 10:50 AM
The diff pinion yoke on the third member. it has a 1310 yoke on it now and would like stronger like a 1350. So the pinion load would need to be done again and i dont have the knowledge or tools to do that. That would also mean i would need the one on the other end done also for the dana 300. Need to get up in the and measure that yoke to see what is there but assuming it is the same as the other end. then would need to get a drive shaft also but that is the easy part.
04-14-2010, 12:53 PM
Not to speak for anyone, but you might try Uncle Ben. I believe he has considerable experience with Fords, as he worked for them for quite a long time.
04-16-2010, 09:27 AM
Man, I wish I could remember the name of that 9" guru in Western Illinois...dirtball shop in the middle of nowhere...he's the KING of the 9".
First question is does that diff have a solid spacer on the pinion? If so, it is a slam dunk, no fear swap.
If it has a crush sleeve it is almost a slam dunk still. The only oddity is the daytona diff. (very rare) otherwise all the 9inch yokes are the same depth.
Got no toolage and no budget? Mark where the nut was on the pinion, spin it off, slap a new seal in there because you can, jamb the new big yoke on there and torque the nut to the same place it was before. Gotta torque wrench? Should be around 125-150'/#s.
Gotta "/# torque wrench or know a bikie who has one you can borrow?
First measure the pinion preload with the inch/pound tourque wrence. It will be around 10 or 15. Swap out the yoke and seal, and tighten the pinion nut down until the preload is original torque + about 5"/#s. (new seal drags a little more). Stake the nut and call it good.
OK, so you like things the RIGHT way? take the diff ALL apart. Change bearings and the crush sleeve. Be ready to wail about 600'/#s on the pinon nut to get the crush on the sleeve started. Don't be surprised if you find NO spacers under a Ford 9" pinion. Lots of them turn out perfect with no depth shim.
Oh yeah, it it is leaking down at the diff, the pinion bearings are suspect. Yeah, worn seals or yokes are possible, but if that pinion shaft wiggles at all, it is way too loose. The wobbling shaft will trash the seal fast. A new seal will hold for 100 miles, then it'll leak again.
My Dad's Mustang:
04-19-2010, 12:00 PM
I think this 9 is out of a bronco. Not sure of the spacer. I keep trying to find the leak and i am leaning towards the rear seal on the transfer case. Hoping a little usage with help it seal. Been sitting a lot. Looked around at prices and may just keep it the way it is and put money in the front driveshaft so we can have some fun with it this summer. Also having the bigger yoke may do other damage if it were to break. rather break the u joint first. easier fix.
Man would love to take a hot lap in that stang. long time dream. Hanging around the road tracks as a kid, watched the GT1 take the track was awsome. Try sitting in turn 1 and have the ground start shaking and rumbling as they all come down the straight at 100 plus.
04-19-2010, 12:02 PM
I will see if the pinion wiggles. thanks. may have a wrench call here if anyone is willing to help work on a Jeep. I know this will get me a ribbin.
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