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View Full Version : Routine Maintenance brings the suck this weekend.


AxleIke
04-18-2010, 10:47 PM
Long story short, my youngest brother, Aaron, bought a super charged 3.4L 1998 4runner last fall.

He was experiencing an occasional "miss" or "hesitation" under accel, but only periodically, not all the time.

After thinking about it, and because the truck is so new to him, I suggested starting with a simple tune up, beginning with plugs and wires, and going on from there, to see if the problem was eliminated. If nothing else, its a good thing to take care of, regardless.

So, picked up some plugs from Jerry, and some wires, and went to town. Gapped them at .043, so hopefully that's okay with the S/C.

Anyway, got the whole passenger bank done, and were working on the driver bank, when the middle driver bank plug snapped off, leaving the threads, and the ground electrode in the head.

After considering the options for a while, I determined that we had no choice but to pull the head, as it is just about guaranteed that an extraction was going to drop crap on top of the cylinders.

:rant::rant::rant::rant:

I've never done anything this deep in a motor before, so its a learning experience.

So far, I've got the driver side valve cover off, the SC and intake manifold off (after having some fun manually depressurizing the fuel injector rails).

Anyway, I'm at the point of dealing with camshafts and timing belts, so I've significantly slowed down, as this is the whole ball game, so to speak.

Chatted with UB about it a bit, and am still a bit shaky, so I'm trying to research a bit more. I like to understand the stuff I'm taking apart, and I've only got about 75% of the timing system.

Pics of the progress:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4187.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4188.jpg

At this point, I see zero reason NOT to do the passenger side head gasket at this time. I'm already this far. Also a Timing belt and a water pump. Unless someone has a good reason not to.

However, the more I look at things, I really feel like I should line stuff up and just remove the timing belt, as I am worried about things moving once I begin removing the cams. Also, the cams supposedly have marks on them, but I'm not sure when those line up. Reading suggests they'll line up when the No. 1 cyl is at TDC. Anyone know if that is correct? If so, I'm just going to cycle the motor around, put No. 1 at TDC, and remove the timing belt to save some headache trying to line it up later.

However, I'm open to suggestions. Definitely a first timer here, so I welcome all advice and constructive criticism.

nakman
04-18-2010, 11:09 PM
man, Isaac, not sure I'd have the cajones to tackle that one but I'm enjoying the pictures as I've never seen one popped open before. Hey if you do the other side, do the PCV & grommet as long as you got that valve cover off, would be one less bit of crusty rubber left behind. And yeah I'd probably do the timing belt, water pump, pulleys, etc. too. wish I was better help, but you know who the experts are.. good luck man. :beer:

SteveH
04-18-2010, 11:40 PM
Since that engine has no significant history of head gaskets, I'm not sure I'd pull the pass. side head just for fun. But, you are running a supercharger.. depends on how much more work you want to add to your day. I hope you have the factory manual for this. And I'd sure do every gasket, the t-belt, water pump, etc. You don't want any leaks after it's buttoned up. I've skipped replacing a few odd parts in the past, and regretted the leaks later.

AxleIke
04-18-2010, 11:47 PM
man, Isaac, not sure I'd have the cajones to tackle that one but I'm enjoying the pictures as I've never seen one popped open before. Hey if you do the other side, do the PCV & grommet as long as you got that valve cover off, would be one less bit of crusty rubber left behind. And yeah I'd probably do the timing belt, water pump, pulleys, etc. too. wish I was better help, but you know who the experts are.. good luck man. :beer:

Thanks Tim!

Good thinking on the PCV and grommet.

AxleIke
04-18-2010, 11:49 PM
Since that engine has no significant history of head gaskets, I'm not sure I'd pull the pass. side head just for fun. But, you are running a supercharger.. depends on how much more work you want to add to your day. I hope you have the factory manual for this. And I'd sure do every gasket, the t-belt, water pump, etc. You don't want any leaks after it's buttoned up. I've skipped replacing a few odd parts in the past, and regretted the leaks later.

All gaskets we remove are being replaced with OEM. Waiting on head gaskets right now.

As for the passenger side, I'm torn. My OCD says do everything, so its all matching. I also see the point of not getting into something that doesn't have to be touched. The valve cover gasket is leaking, so that has to be replaced regardless.

Uncle Ben
04-19-2010, 12:09 AM
I would get the DS pulled off and have a look see on carbon and overal shape of the combustion chambers. If there is build up on the vave stems in the pocket or even the CC's pull the other head to and have both freshened up since you are so close at this point. If the DS head is clean and healthy, probably wont gain you much by having the heads freshened so put it back together and drive it. Good luck on the broken plug and lets hope it was due to over tightening rather than cross threading!

Rezarf
04-19-2010, 12:16 AM
Wow Isaac, you are a good big brother.

I didn't realize the plug broke off in the cylinder when you were talking about it today, I thought the threads were boogered up, not having a chunk of spark plug in the hole.

I'm with you, if you are that deep, might as well do it once and do it right. However, I think UB is right, if the one that you get off looks purdy, chances are the other is the same.

Hollar if you need anything.

Drew

leiniesred
04-19-2010, 04:03 PM
Wow, Isaac. go get 'em!

Without the book, I dunno know to time the cams. The timing marks on the 3vze cams line up with indentations pressed into the back of the timing case tin. Roll the engine to TDC #1. everything should line up. On the 3vze the replacement parts are the timing belt, water pump, idler pully, tensioner pully, >200,000miles = front main seal.

On the plugs: I tested out the platinum 100,000 mile thing. it was a little hard to get the center plugs out. When it got tight, I just threaded it back in, then out again before I broke it off. Little wd-40 around the hole...just kept working it in and out until it was out all the way. Did I drop rust or carbon into the cylider by cranking the dirt/rust off the end of the plug? probably. but I certainly won't worry about it. Maybe this is why you really should just run regular plugs and change them every couple of years? Keep the threads from getting rusty in the combustion chamber.

My engine runs EXACTLY the same with standard plugs vs the 100,000 mile old platinum plugs. *shrugs*

74fj40
04-19-2010, 08:19 PM
Another great reason as to why you should use anti seize on the threads!

Bummer to hear this dude. glad to see you are doing it right though!

AxleIke
04-19-2010, 11:00 PM
Tonight I gave up trying to go "shortcut", and decided to go by the book.

I got the radiator, fan, shroud, PS pump, AC, and alternator unbolted and ziptied out of the way.

I removed the fan bracket, and most of the timing covers, and the crank pulley.

Got everything lined up at TDC.

Now, I will remove the tensioner on the timing belt, and the belt itself, so that I can work on the head without worry, and only have to align everything back up to TDC and put it back together.

AxleIke
04-19-2010, 11:14 PM
Pics:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4189.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4190.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4191.jpg

According to the manual, the timing belt is supposed to have markings on it, but this one did not.

So, I made my own:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4192.jpg

Rezarf
04-20-2010, 09:40 AM
Looking good. Keep it up bud. If you need someone to heckle you from over your shoulder, I'm your man.

Bighead
04-20-2010, 09:45 AM
Wow...this project sure snowballed.

powderpig
04-20-2010, 09:54 AM
How old is the belt:
If you are going to this amount of time, saving 50 buck on a belt is a bad idea. But if the belt has very miles then save the money. Good luck. You know my number if you need to call.

leiniesred
04-20-2010, 10:28 AM
Yeah, that is pretty much how the new belt comes marked, except they use yellow paint and they also put 2 lines at the crank dot if I reacall.
Looks like you found the indents where the cam gears line up.

No real tricks to putting the belt on right again. Just basic "makes sense" logic. Remember which direction the engine turns and keep that side tight between the sprockets. Then, when you let the tensioner do it's thing, it sucks up the slack on the loose side and all your marks stay right where they are supposed to be. If you do it wrong, when you let the tensioner take over, a cog or two will shift and you'll make the homer simpson noise before starting over.

I don't think anti-seize would make a difference. The problem isn't the threads in the head, or even the shoulder of the plugs, the threads in the combustion chamber get rusty after about 10 years. You start to extract the plug, it gets to the rusty threads, then gets tight.

AxleIke
04-20-2010, 11:05 AM
Looking good. Keep it up bud. If you need someone to heckle you from over your shoulder, I'm your man.

Sounds good. Only issue is, I've been working on it at night after I get back from work and the gym, and its only an hour or two at a time, so I'm not sure what your work and Dax schedule is, but you are more than welcome to come on by. Text or PM me for directions.

AxleIke
04-20-2010, 11:07 AM
Wow...this project sure snowballed.

No joke.

How old is the belt:
If you are going to this amount of time, saving 50 buck on a belt is a bad idea. But if the belt has very miles then save the money. Good luck. You know my number if you need to call.

The belt is getting replaced. We have no idea when it was done last, so an OEM one is going on.

Yeah, that is pretty much how the new belt comes marked, except they use yellow paint and they also put 2 lines at the crank dot if I reacall.
Looks like you found the indents where the cam gears line up.

No real tricks to putting the belt on right again. Just basic "makes sense" logic. Remember which direction the engine turns and keep that side tight between the sprockets. Then, when you let the tensioner do it's thing, it sucks up the slack on the loose side and all your marks stay right where they are supposed to be. If you do it wrong, when you let the tensioner take over, a cog or two will shift and you'll make the homer simpson noise before starting over.

I don't think anti-seize would make a difference. The problem isn't the threads in the head, or even the shoulder of the plugs, the threads in the combustion chamber get rusty after about 10 years. You start to extract the plug, it gets to the rusty threads, then gets tight.

Good tips! Thanks.

AxleIke
04-20-2010, 11:08 AM
Now, for the 64,000 dollar question:

How are spark plugs threaded in?

Are they solely in the head, or are they in the block, or both?

rover67
04-20-2010, 01:06 PM
they are just in the head. When you pull that head off you'll be able to stare at the bottom peice of the broken off one. I wonder how cleanly it broke off... MAYBE you can weld a nut to the side that is in the chamber and screw it out that way...

Uncle Ben
04-20-2010, 01:23 PM
they are just in the head. When you pull that head off you'll be able to stare at the bottom peice of the broken off one. I wonder how cleanly it broke off... MAYBE you can weld a nut to the side that is in the chamber and screw it out that way...


Once its off and on the bench you should be able to use a large seat extractor (buy cheap ones at Home Depot or Lowes for plumbing) and hopefully twist it back out. You might have to drill it to make a clean bore for the extractor to grab. A good machine shop can do it for you too probably cheaper than the extractor would cost. Hopefully the treads are still in good shape or you will need to Heli-coil them. Again a machine shop can do both without wasted time and other possible damage.

AxleIke
04-20-2010, 01:36 PM
they are just in the head. When you pull that head off you'll be able to stare at the bottom peice of the broken off one. I wonder how cleanly it broke off... MAYBE you can weld a nut to the side that is in the chamber and screw it out that way...

Once its off and on the bench you should be able to use a large seat extractor (buy cheap ones at Home Depot or Lowes for plumbing) and hopefully twist it back out. You might have to drill it to make a clean bore for the extractor to grab. A good machine shop can do it for you too probably cheaper than the extractor would cost. Hopefully the treads are still in good shape or you will need to Heli-coil them. Again a machine shop can do both without wasted time and other possible damage.

Thanks dudes.

Thats what I thought, but I wanted to make sure.

I'm going to evaluate the head once its off. I have a good set of extractors that I'll use if it looks possible. If not, I'll be going to a shop with it.

Just left a message with Jerry for an order of a new timing belt, new head gasket, new intake manifold gaskets, and a water pump.

For now, I'm leaving the other head off the list. I'll see what this looks like first.

powderpig
04-20-2010, 01:48 PM
Do you need a true bar to check flatness? I have a couple, small and large.
You have my number if you need one.

AxleIke
04-20-2010, 03:11 PM
Yes I do. I didn't even know to check that. I'll ring you later, but the head isn't off yet, so I won't need it ASAP anyway.

Cheers!

Isaac

AxleIke
04-20-2010, 04:20 PM
Robbie, UB, et al:

Any trade secrets to getting the head off? FSM says to pry it with a screw driver, which I don't like at all, as there is too much potential for damage to the surface. Hanes says to place a block of wood against the side of the head, and tap it off with a hammer.

What do you all use?

Uncle Ben
04-20-2010, 04:55 PM
Robbie, UB, et al:

Any trade secrets to getting the head off? FSM says to pry it with a screw driver, which I don't like at all, as there is too much potential for damage to the surface. Hanes says to place a block of wood against the side of the head, and tap it off with a hammer.

What do you all use?

Put two head bolts in loosely. Grab some wooden dowels or broom handles or ???? and slip them in to 2 intake holes and gently but with a sharp movement pop the head loose. Make sure its still on the deck alignment dowels, remove the loose head bolts and lift the head out.

AxleIke
04-21-2010, 12:05 AM
Thought I might get the head off tonight, but no such luck.

Stuck on the exhaust manifold, but MAN I love air tools. Getting all of the pulley bolts off= super easy with an impact.

I thought I could MAYBE get enough play in the manifold to not have to remove the x-over pipe, but I think its going to have to come off, which SUCKS.

I also didn't have very much time tonight, as I had grilling duties, and had to hit Costco on the way home.

Anyway, progress:

Removed the AC bracket, timing belt tensioner, top idler pulley, the timing belt, and the LH cam pulley.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4193.jpg

Any ideas on quick ways to get these monstrosities out?

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4194.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4196.jpg

powderpig
04-21-2010, 06:44 AM
Use a internal torx socket(8) I believe to remove the studs. It usually only takes a few minutes to remove and makes my life easier when I do this type of work.

AxleIke
04-21-2010, 11:22 AM
Use a internal torx socket(8) I believe to remove the studs. It usually only takes a few minutes to remove and makes my life easier when I do this type of work.

Ah! Genious! I was wondering how to get those out! Much easier that way.

Rezarf
04-21-2010, 11:25 AM
Or plasma! :hill:

AxleIke
04-21-2010, 01:19 PM
Or plasma! :hill:

LOL. True, but I think my brother isn't looking to do headers at this time, as this cost is quite a bit higher than the original spark plug job anyway! LOL.

AxleIke
04-22-2010, 12:12 AM
Longish night, but good. Got the head off.

Managed to get out all the head studs for the manifold, thanks robbie! Picked up a set of external torx sockets.

For those who are interested, these were NGK plugs. pulled the last one before starting tonight.

Followed the FSM procedure for pulling the head exactly, and it popped off in my hands.

Its late, but I took some more pics, so can the guru's tell me what things look like? I know I'll need to check the trueness of the head, but what else to I look for, in terms of deciding if the head needs machining or not?

Engine:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4199.jpg

Cylinders:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4197.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4198.jpg

Top of the head:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4200.jpg

And the head gasket surface:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4201.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4202.jpg

I realize its tough to tell from pictures, but perhaps something stands out?

leiniesred
04-22-2010, 10:26 AM
Center spark plug hole stands out to me.
Good job Isaac. EZ out the plug. (can you crank it INTO the head instead of out the normal way to avoid cranking the rusty threads through the entire aluminum head?)

Clean up the head and the block. MAYBE have the head checked for flatness, but I imagine it is just fine.

SteveH
04-22-2010, 11:17 AM
The spec for my '87 and '88 (4 cyl) Camry head was .002-.003 for flatness. I measured .006 in some places along a straight edge, between the cylinders. I bought an OEM head gasket, sprayed it with copper gasket spray (which I would not use on my MLS-type gasket, if this 4Runner engine has one) and put it back together. Each car (I did two) had no head gasket issues at least 30K miles later. And they have been run hard! The heads were cleaned up with a green Scotchbrite type disk, but were not machined. You could have a shop lightly machine the head just to clean off the gasket residue and provide a fresh surface. Since you're running a supercharger, I'd take any extra precaution you can. On my '99 Subaru, the shop took off .003 to freshen up the head. (This had been done two other times on these heads!)

AxleIke
04-22-2010, 11:42 AM
Decided to take it to a shop.

I tried the ez-out. had a 15" crescent on there, and it wouldn't budge. I'm thinking its cross threaded something fierce.

Sucks, but they've got the tools to do it right.

AxleIke
04-23-2010, 11:31 AM
Just heard back from the shop. They got the plug out with some heavy machinery. EZ out didn't budge it.

They chased it with a tap, and alls well except the very bottom. Spark plugs thread in and torque just fine, but we'll have to change the plugs more often to avoid a carbon build up freezing it up again.

The plug was apparantly just WAY over tightened and no anti-seize was used, so it just fused in there.

Also having the head resurfaced, and it should be back this afternoon.

AxleIke
04-23-2010, 11:36 AM
Picked up a 3.4L Campaign Kit for the gaskets, comes will all sorts of good stuff, like some sort of valve part, new exhaust nuts, two headgaskets, two valve cover gaskets, intake gaskets, and plenum gaskets.

Does not come with new exhaust gaskets or studs, but does include the rings for the x-over pipe.

113 at the discounted rate.

rover67
04-23-2010, 11:37 AM
Glad they got the plug out man!

Time for it to go back together :)

Rezarf
04-23-2010, 12:19 PM
You should make that plug into a necklace or something. ;)

AxleIke
04-23-2010, 02:36 PM
So, I convinced my brother to let me do this my way.

So, plan is: Clean the gasket surface of the block. Going to use some scotch brite and screw drivers here and either brakleen or mineral spirits, unless someone has a better idea.

Next will be to clean the cylinder walls and piston head of carbon. Robbie uses a small screwdriver, scotchbrite, brakeleen and finally some oil to clear the debris.

Check the cylinders over, but at this point, even if there is some micro scratching, its going to stay.

Put the driver side back together, and then pull the passenger side, and do the same, and have that head resurfaced as well.

Next, a new water pump, and timing belt will be going in. All replacement parts are OEM.

Finally, we are sending the injectors off to witchhunter for cleaning, refurbing, and flow testing. 19 bucks per, a good bang for his buck.

Details here: http://www.witchhunter.com/injectorserv1.php4

AxleIke
04-25-2010, 01:29 AM
Okay, so we got the head back yesterday.

The spark plug had to be removed via Mill, but they were able to turn it out. Threads are good, plug can go in and out.

We had the head gasket surface re-surfaced, for a better seal.

They also found some Micro-cracks forming in between the exhaust and intake valves, but this should be okay for a while, as the alternative is a new head. Not going to break into the coolant area anytime soon.

So, today, I went to town cleaning.

After talking to Robbie, and a post from Brian C (thefatkid) I did the following:

Cleaned the block head gasket surface to the best of my ability. It took me around 4 hours, but I removed all of the major gasket residue, and essentially cleaned it so there are just a few discolorations in the metal, but nothing that can be felt with a fingernail.

There are a few porous areas, but I figure that is just the nature of a block with 220k on it.

I then cleaned the tops of the pistons, and removed all the carbon.

I decided against doing anything but wiping and spraying with brakleen on the cylinder walls, as I was too afraid of messing up the cross hatching.

As far as I could tell there were no micro scratches on the walls, and everything looked pretty good.

I cleaned with a small wire brush, a small screw driver, a scotch-brite pad, lots of brakleen, and tons of paper towels.

After I finished cleaning the piston heads, I turned the engine over about 6-8 times while adding a bit of clean engine oil to the cylinders, and moving the pistons a slight bit each time, allowing it to catch any debris that may have gotten down in there, and letting me wipe it up with a towel. Probably cleaned each cylinder 15 times in this fashion, easily. Wiped up the oil, cleaned it with brakleen, blew it out with compressed air, then re oiled.

After all things were totally clean, I re-cleaned all surfaces with a paper towel and brakleen.

I then cleaned the rest of the head, again using a small screwdriver, a wire brush, a scotch-brite pad, mineral spirits, and brakleen.

I also used compressed air to blow out all debris from the areas I was working. Still, I plan to flush the coolant system once this is done, and we will change the oil before starting this up, as well as change it again in a few hundred miles.

Then, I put the head on and torqued it down, according to the FSM, and put the intake camshaft on. Thats as far as I got today.

Time for some pictures:

First of all, the BEFORE pictures:

Head surfaces and Pistons Before-

Head head gasket surface:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4202.jpg

Block surface:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4197.jpg

Pistons:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4198.jpg

The head was also pretty covered in grime due to valve cover leaks.

Now the After pictures:

The block and pistons:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4203.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4204.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4205.jpg

The head cleaned up:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4209.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4210.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4211.jpg

The head gasket surface, and valves. You can see the micro cracks forming between the valves here:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4212.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4215.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4208.jpg

Kenon698
04-25-2010, 06:25 AM
That looks fantastic. Glad to hear tne plug came out fine.

AxleIke
04-25-2010, 08:47 PM
Had a pretty productive day. Got the driver side all buttoned up, and the passenger side all torn down. The head will go in tomorrow for a resurface, and then I'll clean it up.

Didn't get quite as far as I'd hoped because when I was lining up the camshafts to take them off, I tried to budge the cam pulley just a smidge, but it was enough to flop everything over 1/3 turn in about 2 microseconds (as the valves pushed up against the lobes and pushed them over).

Long story short, my left ring finger was caught, and it crushed it in between something and the cam pulley. My finger came out quite quickly, but it tore a big chunk out of the tip, so I've taken some advil and am resting a bit. It is going to be quite purple I think.

Anyway, just a couple of pics today:

The driver side all buttoned up, including the spark plugs, which all threaded in just fine, including the one that was stuck before.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4219.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4220.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4221.jpg

Its also why this takes me quite a bit of time. I get a bit anal about cleaning stuff, probably more than I should, but I get a very weird sense of satisfaction from cleaning.

Anyway, just a quick shot of the other side all torn down:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4222.jpg

Rezarf
04-25-2010, 09:28 PM
Looking good Isaac, sorry about your finger, I hope you get it all buttoned up soon! :thumb:

Art Volmer
04-26-2010, 12:08 AM
Isaac,
Great job for jumping in to help your bro. :thumb:. Just my opinion but you may want to price those Knock sensors if they are cheap replace them while the intake is off and are easy to get to. I don't know how your luck is but with mine they would fail. Just a thought because it would suck to have to pull the intake and SC again.

AxleIke
04-27-2010, 10:16 AM
Yesterday was a long, long day of cleaning. Got the passenger block and pistons cleaned up, same as the driver side, and then just started cleaning parts and bolts.

Got 90% of all the bolts and nuts clean, and just have one more tensioner to clean up. Valve cover is clean as are all of the fan parts.

Then, once I get the head back, I'll have to clean that, and once the head and valve cover on, I'll clean up the front side of the motor and replace the water pump. Then everything starts going back together.

Only other thing of note:

Found out that "Seal Packing" in the FSM is just silicone gasket maker essentially.

Also, when putting the driver side back together, I forgot to remove the "service bolt" from the exhuast cam. So, I pull the valve cover, removed the bolt, and then re siliconed the areas that are supposed to be, re-oiled the gasket, and put it back together.

AxleIke
05-03-2010, 10:35 AM
Productive weekend.

Got the garage cleaned up and organized, finally. Got to work cleaning the passenger head, and got that baby all clean. Got the head in, the camshafts in, and the valve cover on. Pictures to come.

One big set back was that, when installing the intake cam, I dropped one of the bolts, which promptly made its way down the head, down an oil galley, and into the oil pan.

2 hour break while we unbolted the front diff, the stupid inspection cover on the auto tranny, which could not be any harder to get to, and undid the oil pan. The IFS crossmember, the steering rack, and the diff actuater lines all run directly in the way of the inspection cover on the tranny. I would like to slap which ever engineer designed that. UB has a theory on engineers...

Anyway, could not pull the pan out, but was able to drop it about 6 inches and retreive the bolt. The rest of the assembly of the passenger side head went smoothly.

Now, I just need a new oil pan gasket, and some extra hands to get that stupid pan back up.

Also got the injectors back from witchhunter, and they are fantastic looking. Flows are all great now, and, while not perfectly ballanced, all within a cc/min of each other.

AxleIke
05-03-2010, 11:33 PM
Progress:

Where I started with two completed heads:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4228.jpg

Then it was on to cleaning the front side of the motor of a LOT of grime. Not so easy in the truck, but it turned out mediocre. Would have loved to see it shiny, but it was clean enough to keep any grime from getting into stuff that matters. Pulled the alternator bracket and cleaned that too.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4231.jpg

Then I installed a new water pump and gasket, and RTV'd just a hair to ensure a good seal. New T-Stat gasket, and cleaned the t-stat housing as well:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4234.jpg

Then it was on to the timing belt. These Toyota belts are very nice, all marked and perfectly set up to make install a breeze. Got that in without any issues, until the end:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4236.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4239.jpg

This is what stopped me tonight:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4238.jpg

The timing tensioner. It needs to be compressed and a pin installed to hold it compressed while it is installed, and then the pin removed. Problem is, the FSM calls for a press to compress the spring, and I have nothing to substitute for a press. I tried several different methods, when a channel lock slipping and popping my knuckles good and hard, which had me wanting to toss things around the garage, told me it was time to quit.

I'll have to beg/borrow some press time tomorrow from somewhere, or perhaps pony up for one of my own. We'll see what happens.

Uncle Ben
05-03-2010, 11:36 PM
The timing tensioner. It needs to be compressed and a pin installed to hold it compressed while it is installed, and then the pin removed. Problem is, the FSM calls for a press to compress the spring, and I have nothing to substitute for a press. I tried several different methods, when a channel lock slipping and popping my knuckles good and hard, which had me wanting to toss things around the garage, told me it was time to quit.

I'll have to beg/borrow some press time tomorrow from somewhere, or perhaps pony up for one of my own. We'll see what happens.

Isaac....use your vice! Or if you have a drill press....

AxleIke
05-04-2010, 11:23 AM
Isaac....use your vice! ..

:o:o:o

This is why working late at night is not a good thing. I'm an idiot.

Have to find the vise as I haven't gotten my workbench built yet, but shouldn't be too hard. It may be up at my folks place though...Arg.

RicardoJM
05-04-2010, 12:45 PM
:o:o:o

This is why working late at night is not a good thing. I'm an idiot.

Have to find the vise as I haven't gotten my workbench built yet, but shouldn't be too hard. It may be up at my folks place though...Arg.

Could you make do with a c-clamp? That might be easier to find than your vise. I've been really impressed with your work as I've followed this thread. Everyone should be fortunate enough to have a brother that takes care of them they way you are helping yours out:thumb:.

AxleIke
05-04-2010, 01:39 PM
Could you make do with a c-clamp? That might be easier to find than your vise. I've been really impressed with your work as I've followed this thread. Everyone should be fortunate enough to have a brother that takes care of them they way you are helping yours out:thumb:.

Thanks Ricardo!

I tried the C-clamp, but I only have smooth foot clamps, so the darn thing kept trying to slide out of the clamp. Its cool, I remembered where the Vise is, so I should be able to pull that out tonight and get it done.

Not looking forward to the oil pan. Ugh.

AxleIke
05-05-2010, 12:36 AM
Soooo.....Sucky night.

Started off well. First of all, my vise was where I thought it was: In a big plastic bin with a bunch of random stuff, cleverly labeled, "Isaac Random Crap".

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4241.jpg

Pretty obvious why I hadn't unpacked it yet. Also found my dead blow hammer in there, and some old shoes that made their way to the garbage, some greasy rags (why I kept them I have no idea?) and a box of picture hanging hardware.

Anyway, in short order, I put compressed the idler pulley, got a pin in it (Allen wrench), loctited the bolts, and torqued it down, and finally pulled the pin.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4240.jpg

For those that don't know these motors (which included me up until about now), its the grey part hanging upside down just below the lower idler pulley. Left part of the picture.

So, then the crappy started up again.

The next step was to secure the starter wires, which hang in a bracket that I can't clean because the plastic holster is so shot from heat that any amount of serious rubbing causes it to disintegrate.

Thats beside the point. The starter wire bracket goes around the oil pump flange (silver flange at the bottom of the block in the above picture), and the oil pan.

So, the oil pan needed to go back on.

So, I crawled up under there and took one short look at it: It was filthy, and the gasket surface was absurd. I'm not sure if there is supposed to be a gasket in there, but this had a bunch of silicone and thats about it. Not in good shape.

I quickly realized that there was no way I could clean the gasket surface to my satisfaction, or, really, to any semblance of a seal (need to hold oil pressure) without pulling the pan.

Thus began the epic struggle of getting the front diff out.

I've changed a few later model IFS CV axles on the trail, and know how to pop those very quickly. Impact to the lower ball joint 14mm bolts, off comes the entire spindle, and pry bar to the inner part of the axle, out it pops.

No issues there.

Having never pulled these diffs before, I hadn't realized that a total moron designed the mounting system in these trucks.

These diffs are held in by 3 bolts, two easy up front, and a stud in the back. You remove the front two, and a nut off of the back stud.

Then you raise the diff up, and realize that there is about 1/16" more stud to come out of the hole, and the diff is hitting the bellhousing. It will come out all the way, if you manuever the diff at an angle, and just get the bolt to clear, and then pound the diff out with brass drifts and hammers. It just plain sucks.

Killer.

So, 2 hours of prying, and shoving and whacking, the front diff and oil pan are out.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4242.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4244.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4245.jpg

More cleaning to come I suppose.

corsair23
05-05-2010, 12:45 AM
Your brother is going to have a "new" truck by the time you are done Isaac :hill:

On that plastic holster...could you just scrap that and wrap the wires in something heat proof?

Keep up the awesome work...It will be all worth it in the end :thumb:

nakman
05-05-2010, 09:44 AM
Wow.. great work Isaac. You may as well do 4.56 gears and an ARB locker in front at this point. :)

AxleIke
05-05-2010, 10:15 AM
Your brother is going to have a "new" truck by the time you are done Isaac :hill:

On that plastic holster...could you just scrap that and wrap the wires in something heat proof?

Keep up the awesome work...It will be all worth it in the end :thumb:

Thanks Jeff!

As for the plastic, I probably could do something like that, but right now its in a nice little bundle which keeps it out of the way of the pulleys and belts. Rewrapping it is possible, but a pain. However, I may do something like that.

Wow.. great work Isaac. You may as well do 4.56 gears and an ARB locker in front at this point. :)

Thanks Tim!

Gears and a locker would be sweet, though its stock at 4.30, so I'd likely go deeper. However, given that this is a clamshell front diff, and requires some super trick dial indicator and a bunch of other stuff, I'll pass on doing a diff right now.

One thing is certain, the whole motor is going back together before that stupid diff goes back in. I was so frustrated last night, I wanted to pitch the whole thing off a cliff.

Jacket
05-05-2010, 01:35 PM
Nice work Isaac. I've been watching this one from the sidelines, and you've definitely taken on a load.

Seems kinda silly to have to pull the diff to get the oil pan out......Toyota :rolleyes:

rover67
05-05-2010, 01:52 PM
Nice work man... hopefully it can be back on it's way together again soon....

I have some of that fancy schmancy heat wrap for wires at home if you need some, just call me.

Uncle Ben
05-05-2010, 03:55 PM
Isaac, Toy uses the black FIPG for the pan. I have some if ya need it.

AxleIke
05-05-2010, 05:28 PM
Ah! Gotcha. Black FIPG it is.

EDIT:

Nevermind. I'm somewhat unskilled at interweb searches...LOL

AxleIke
05-05-2010, 05:31 PM
Marco, I may grab some of that from you.

AxleIke
05-05-2010, 11:13 PM
Short night. My allergies are killing me, so I spent some time just vegging.

Got the oil pan cleaned inside and out, and the block gasket surface cleaned up as well.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4247.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4246.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4248.jpg

Also picked up some Black FIPG for the gasket. Cleaned all the bolts and the two nuts, and its ready to go in tomorrow.

AxleIke
05-07-2010, 12:37 AM
Some stuff done tonight. Got the front diff powerwashed at the local car wash (bet they love us :D)

Also got the oil pan in, and that pesky plastic piece removed, cleaned, and reinstalled without too much disintegration:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4249.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4250.jpg

Got one timing cover on, and the fan bracket, and the crank pulley. As for the pulley bolt: well, considering I don't have a torque wrench that goes to 217 ft lbs, and I have no way of holding the motor from turning at that torque, without some creative bracing on the torque converter, I opted for the "lots of blue loctite, crank the pressure on the impact wrench, and hammer down" style of installing the crank pulley. Should be good:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4252.jpg

Then put on the intake manifold with new gaskets:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4253.jpg

And lastly got the passenger exhaust manifold put in with new studs, and 3 new nuts (for some reason the kit comes with 9 instead of 12 nuts. Lame.) Reused the old gasket, as this seems okay? We'll see I guess, but talking with Jerry at BT, the techs there usually use the old exhaust gasket as long as its in decent shape (these were).

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4254.jpg

60wag
05-07-2010, 06:11 AM
What's the sensor on the left cam pulley for?

Uncle Ben
05-07-2010, 08:26 AM
What's the sensor on the left cam pulley for?

You almost answered it yourself! Cam Position Sensor.

60wag
05-07-2010, 04:10 PM
Isn't it normally a crank position sensor?

AxleIke
05-10-2010, 12:12 AM
Isn't it normally a crank position sensor?

Got one of those too!

AxleIke
05-10-2010, 12:18 AM
It was graduation weekend for the fiance, so only got to work a few hours here and there on it, but its getting back together.

First off, got the exhaust manifolds and heat shields back in, the front timing cover, the mounts for the Alt, AC, and PS, as well as the PS, alt, and AC:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4255.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4257.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4256.jpg

I then got to work, and didn't get too many pics, but I did snag one of the fuel injectors back from witchhunter. They did a very nice job, I'm very impressed with their work:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4258.jpg

Then stuck on the fuel rails, and the supercharger, and then went to town running wires, re connecting the fuel lines, vacuum lines, and all of the misc wire/hose/line holders.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4259.jpg

Got the throttle body on as well:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4260.jpg

Lastly just trying to get the dip stick in the right position, as it is very finiky: One way it hits the SC idler, and the other, its in the way of the belt. Still working on it, and its just stuck out of the way in this pic. Thats not where its supposed to be:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4261.jpg

Then its on to the fan, the radiator, and new CV axles before throwing in the front diff.

AxleIke
05-11-2010, 02:37 AM
It lives!

Started at 6:30, just finished up. Took a bit to start as all the fuel lines were empty, but then it fired right up. Ran for 15 mins, got warm, and we ran out of distilled water for the rad, so we only got about 2 gals into it. Wed, we'll add more, and then take it out for a spin.

rover67
05-11-2010, 09:20 AM
Congratulations man!!!!!!! Feels good huh?!

AxleIke
05-11-2010, 02:22 PM
Sure does!

Now, a couple questions.

Since this thing has been apart, and put back together, what sort of "break in" should we do, if any? My plan is to change the oil out in about 500 miles, but any other things we should do? Like with gears, you heat them up and then let them cool several times, then change the oil out after about 500 as well.

corsair23
05-11-2010, 03:54 PM
You rock Isaac :thumb:

No clue on the break in procedure but I'm sure someone has ideas...And just think, all that for a spark plug :hill:

Uncle Ben
05-11-2010, 04:03 PM
Everything is already broke in! Keep an eye on the temps and watch for leaks and drive that sucka!

rover67
05-11-2010, 04:29 PM
yeah man, just run it... Chance the oil in a few hundred miles if ya want to kinda clean it out, but otherwise run it like normal.

AxleIke
05-11-2010, 05:38 PM
You rock Isaac :thumb:

No clue on the break in procedure but I'm sure someone has ideas...And just think, all that for a spark plug :hill:

Thanks Jeff! That spark plug cost just shy of a grand. Not sure what the most expensive spark plug ever was, but that has got to be close to it!

:D

Everything is already broke in! Keep an eye on the temps and watch for leaks and drive that sucka!

yeah man, just run it... Chance the oil in a few hundred miles if ya want to kinda clean it out, but otherwise run it like normal.

Awesome! Thanks guys!

Rezarf
05-11-2010, 06:09 PM
Cool Isaac! Again, you're a terrific big brother!

AxleIke
05-12-2010, 11:08 PM
It left tonight!

Finished all the little odds and ends up, and took it out for a test drive. Purred like a cat, and ran well under hard acceleration.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4266.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4265.jpg

And I put this on just to feel legit :D

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4264.jpg

It came with the belt with instructions on where to affix it. Figured, why not?

Sweet! Now I can work on my own truck!

RicardoJM
05-13-2010, 07:40 AM
Excellent work Isaac!!!

rover67
05-13-2010, 08:38 AM
Looks like factory!

Good work man!

So the running issues have been resolved?

nakman
05-13-2010, 09:51 AM
So awesome, well done Isaac. :bowdown: maybe some day you can help me install a supercharger :eek:

AxleIke
05-13-2010, 10:21 AM
Excellent work Isaac!!!

Thank you Ricardo!

Looks like factory!

Good work man!

So the running issues have been resolved?

So far...

I don't think they will be completely solved until he gets a new fuel pump. UB recommended a Walbro pump. The issue is, the SC wants more fuel than the pump can deliver when you are on it. Bigger injectors are another option, but even more expensive.

We'll see. So far, so good.

So awesome, well done Isaac. :bowdown: maybe some day you can help me install a supercharger :eek:

I'd love to. Putting in the SC is actually very straight forward. If you are modifying the injection system further, thats where it gets more invovled, AFAIK.

Though, there are a number of folks far more qualified than I in this club. I was PMing and phoning a bunch to get help during this whole thing, for help when I got stuck.

One thing is for sure: :risingsun