View Full Version : Slider Question

05-03-2010, 12:23 PM
How hard is it to turn weld on sliders into bolt on sliders? I assume I need to weld on plates, is that good enough?


05-03-2010, 12:28 PM
Yea that and some gussets. I'd just reccomend looking at the bolt on types. And copy that mounting design. Why do you want to remove a perfectlly good slider that's already welded on ? Unless you damaged them at Moab and need new ones

05-03-2010, 01:21 PM
Nah, Off Road Solutions has a pair of weld on but I'd prefer bolt on. So I figured I find a way to bolt them on. I'll check out a few bolt on and copy those. Thanks


05-03-2010, 01:51 PM
That's odd, I didn't think ORS was in business anymore. Or is it just that Mike has moved on? :confused:

05-03-2010, 02:02 PM
Heck maybe they aren't. That might explain the lack of reply on my emails. The search goes on I guess.

Nakman, your sliders are bolt on correct?

05-03-2010, 02:51 PM
Yeah mine are, both trucks. and you are welcome to stare at them for extended periods of time.. hey maybe you should buy a tube bender and a chop saw, I've already got a couple angle grinders, then we can bribe someone into teaching us how to use my welder.. :weld:

12-08-2015, 12:31 PM
Deep, dark thread bump...

So what are the thoughts about bolt-on sliders vs. welding them on. I'm considering bolt-on for the Tacoma and had sliders welded on Imelda at one time. Which is part of the reason for thinking about bolt-on to be honest.

Reasons for bolt-on:

No disturbing paint on frame
Can properly paint and periodically repaint sliders
No grinding and welding to frame (frames are not designed for loads like this and gusseting acknowledges this)

Reasons for weld-on:

No movement of sliders (mine actually flexed into the body and I suspect bolt-on probably would have been way worse)
No movement of sliders (abrasion of bolt-on sliders and debris will probably rub off finish which wouldn't happen with them welded)

I don't intend to wheel extremely difficult trails with the Tacoma and I never really beat the '91 senseless. But I want to protect the body and I don't intend to baby the truck. I think any flex in bolt-on won't seriously challenge the intended level of 'wheeling. So it's mostly are they stout enough and how badly do bolt-on distort the frame and ruin the paint?

With the potential issue of frame rust on the Tacoma I think burning off the paint inside the boxed sections and not being able to really clean it up worries me more than taking the sliders off every year or two and repainting the outside surface.

12-08-2015, 12:39 PM
That's odd, I didn't think ORS was in business anymore. Or is it just that Mike has moved on? :confused:

He did close his doors and moved to Kansas I think. BUT he started up again as an online supplier for conversion pieces. His website is constantly changing, so I think he's still in business

12-08-2015, 01:16 PM

Bolt on works just fine. I drop off stuff all the time hard on my sliders(MetalTech). My truck is 7000+/-lbs on the trail. I doubt your Taco will ever be that fat. I don't personally see much advantage to weld on sliders unless a bolt on solution is not available or unworkable do to frame design.

12-08-2015, 01:24 PM
I had bolt on sliders on my old Tacoma and they were plenty sturdy. I wheeled my Tacoma a lot harder than I have the 80, and had dimples in my pinch welds to prove it (but no rocker damage). If you don't want to disturb your frame, make sure you confirm that your sliders don't require any extra drilling. The ones I used for my Tacoma had L-shaped brackets for mounting to the frame, and some of the lower mount points required drilling holes. Just another thing to keep an eye on. I think mine were Demello sliders.

12-08-2015, 01:36 PM
Looking at the Mobtown.


12-08-2015, 06:38 PM
Bolt them up, metal thickness, gusset design and proper gap are the bigger issues if you ask me.

I like the idea of removable sliders if I need to touch them up, fix damage, and or sell the rig and want to part things out.

12-09-2015, 09:05 AM
Bolt on can be just as good as weld on.

Bolt on sliders that flex a lot are usually the kind that use either u-bolts around the frame or had a c-shaped bracket that went around the frame and vertical bolts that captured the back side of the C. Bolting to the frame like the ones you posted is just as good as weld on, assuming there are enough bolts.

While it still requires welding, the best way, IMO, to bolt on is sleeved bolt holes through the frame, 4 horizontal and 2 vertical. This drastically strengthens the frame, and, compared to many weld on varieties I've seen, is much stronger. With proper hardware, and a good slider design, it won't flex into the body.

12-09-2015, 09:10 AM
FWIW, you can have flex with weld ons.

I build out of 1/4" to get away with that. My first sliders were well gusseted but were out of 1/8". Flexed all the time. Now I have a heavy truck, very narrow gap, and 1/4" and it never hits, even on hard slams down coming off rocks on Chinamans and Minor Threat.

I also always bend my pinch welds up to get enough gap for snow clearance. Ice and slush build up between the body and slider and freeze there, this usually makes a lot of noise. I can also get the slider close to the body that way.

12-09-2015, 09:14 AM
FWIW, you can have flex with weld ons.
There are square 1.5" bends in the pinch seam on Imelda that prove this.


12-09-2015, 11:07 AM
When I did my sliders I planned on flex and stuck the slider right under the pinch weld. so far so good and lots of contact.

I'd do bolt on if it were me again, I had a newer car, and the solution were clean. I don't like welding on the frames because of the reasons you describe Dave, although the 60 isn't rusting majorly from those spots but rather others.

Just make sure that when the bolt ons flex the slider hits the pinch weld with enough surface area that it's wont damage it. Either that or put a big gap there.

I'd think if you were worried about bolt on beef, you could upgrade the hardware to Something really strong like plates and grade 8 big bolts rather than lower grade u bolts. That being said, it seems like there are lots of bolt on's with the u bolt style attachment and the internet isn't on fire talking about hoe they suck.

12-09-2015, 11:29 AM
The Ubolt style don't suck, they just flex. With sleeved holes, you don't get any more flex than the weld on, and the frame won't dent.

Having a flange that goes under the frame helps with flex, if there are bolts going up through it. I do that flange on weld on sliders for the same reason.

12-09-2015, 11:41 AM
These are the sliders I'm considering (honestly it's more of a probably). They are no-drill and I'm satisfied that they seem well done.


12-09-2015, 01:13 PM
I'm having sliders for my '94 80 built right now and they will be weld on. The advantages of weld on (as mentioned before) are no movement, stronger connection to the frame and lower cost due to the fact that less fab work needs to be done. I'm having them built with one removable leg /cat skid plate to facilitate replacement of the cats when the time comes. Loren at First Choice Fab is an accomplished builder/fabricator that can build to suit your needs. His prices are not high and he has a small shop near Belleview and Broadway 303-204-3091. I like the flexibility of his style and the fact the money stays local.

12-09-2015, 07:45 PM
Yeah mine are, both trucks. and you are welcome to stare at them for extended periods of time.. hey maybe you should buy a tube bender and a chop saw, I've already got a couple angle grinders, then we can bribe someone into teaching us how to use my welder.. :weld:

What are you offering in that bribe? If timing is right could show you how to use that thing.... Not saying Im the best but do pretty good for myself. :eek: Or come to my place an bring scraps and can burn stuff with mine. :D Just saying.