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Air Randy
05-03-2010, 08:38 PM
Anyone have an extra late 70's to mid 80's Chevy/GMC 1 ton front axle laying around they want to get rid of, and/or a 14 bolt rear housing from the same year/type of vehicle? I'm getting ready to start my next project.

Inukshuk
05-03-2010, 08:57 PM
Is this to put more weight under your rig, like a keel? :D

Uncle Ben
05-03-2010, 08:58 PM
Anyone have an extra late 70's to mid 80's Chevy/GMC 1 ton front axle laying around they want to get rid of, and/or a 14 bolt rear housing from the same year/type of vehicle? I'm getting ready to start my next project.

Why not just get a Jeep too? :p:

TIMZTOY
05-03-2010, 09:59 PM
There are quite few on CL I was just looking this up my self, we should both stop talking to Justin :lmao: jk I want 60's also

AxleIke
05-03-2010, 10:22 PM
I dunno about an axle, but I'd suggest looking into a 60 for the rear. The 14B is a great axle, but hangs low, even shaved.

Is aftermarket out of the question? A spider 9, or something from dynatrac, or diamond might fit the bill nicely.

Couple of things I've seen from lurking around the web for WAY too many hours:

One tons are awesome, no doubt, but they get expensive QUICKLY.

From what I've seen, with a 4 banger and less than 42's, Toy stuff is quite good, and a bit cheaper, even with custom width stuff from Diamond.

One ton domestic stuff is great on a rig with huge meats that sees a lot of heavy throttle time, and has good power. If that is the direction the Gecko is going, then this is the time to upgrade.

Anyway, just some food for thought.

Air Randy
05-04-2010, 07:26 PM
Is this to put more weight under your rig, like a keel? :D

Actually, yes. I got to spend several days driving Jeremy's truck and Brook's buggy. It's amazing how stable they are on off camber stuff that would be really scary in the Gecko as it sits today. That additional stability is a result of the wider track (I'm 58" today, 1 tons are 68"), increased unsprung weight and the action of link suspension versus leaf springs.

If I set it up the same the Gecko should perform almost identical to Jeremy's truck. If I can come close to that level of stability I would be happy.

I am considering other options too. For example, if I stay with my Toy axles and put my 39's from the Mule on it (2" back space MRW wheels) and I add 1.5" wheel spacers I would end up with 64" WMS to WMS. Thats slightly better than an FJ80 and only 4" less than the 1 tons. Probably several hundred pounds lighter overall but a big cost savings. I could go agead and do the link suspension too and maybe have something close to the 1 tons in performance? What do you think of that?

Air Randy
05-04-2010, 07:28 PM
Why not just get a Jeep too? :p: Thats always possible. If it has the right running gear under it for the right price I might buy it and part it out. :hill:

Air Randy
05-04-2010, 07:32 PM
One additional question to those of you with suspension fabrication experience: If I decide to stay with my Toy axles for now but go forward with linking the front & rear suspension, is it all a throw away if later I decide to go to 1 ton axles?

In other words, would I still be able to use most of my link suspension setup (except for maybe new arms) if I convert to 1 tons later? I don't want to have to do it twice.

J Kimmel
05-04-2010, 08:33 PM
If you did the math and set up your links you can put whatever axles you want on later. If you are planning on 1 ton axles later and smaller Toy axles now one thing you will need to consider will be the rear link vertical separation. do some measuring on the axles you will want to install later and make the bridge on the Toy axles that height and it will be plug and play.



this...but I think it would be a waste if you won't be happy with them in the future :)

Glad I could influ-err..help :)

Uncle Ben
05-04-2010, 08:53 PM
this...but I think it would be a waste if you won't be happy with them in the future :)

Glad I could influ-err..help :)

Go away trouble maker! :rolleyes: You and Brook are a very bad influence! Bad Jeremy...bad! :rant: :hill:

Air Randy
05-04-2010, 09:12 PM
I just spent an hour or so on the phone with Scotty. How do you feel about going with a diamond housing F&R the same width as 1 ton's? I can salvage one of my longfields out of the front, all of my MC knuckle HW/hubs/disc brakes and keep my HP diff & ARB/gears & my v6 rear diff with detroit/gears. This would give me the same width as 1 tons, be stronger than my current setup and probably save me a fair amount of coin. They wouldn't be as heavy as the 1 tons and not as mechanically strong but they should be OK with my 4 popper as long as I don't go too big on the tires.

If I link the front & rear, do you think I'll get similar performance to going the 1 ton route?

bigbluefj
05-04-2010, 09:17 PM
http://www.diamondaxle.com/front_steering.htm theres also this option...

bigbluefj
05-04-2010, 09:20 PM
or this one http://www.spidertrax.com/

J Kimmel
05-04-2010, 09:36 PM
I just spent an hour or so on the phone with Scotty. How do you feel about going with a diamond housing F&R the same width as 1 ton's? I can salvage one of my longfields out of the front, all of my MC knuckle HW/hubs/disc brakes and keep my HP diff & ARB/gears & my v6 rear diff with detroit/gears. This would give me the same width as 1 tons, be stronger than my current setup and probably save me a fair amount of coin. They wouldn't be as heavy as the 1 tons and not as mechanically strong but they should be OK with my 4 popper as long as I don't go too big on the tires.

If I link the front & rear, do you think I'll get similar performance to going the 1 ton route?

I wouldn't, but I am biased. I'd check with Mark (ScaldedDog) about that. He has pretty much that set up on his silver 4Runner.

TIMZTOY
05-04-2010, 11:52 PM
Rockwells !!!

Uncle Ben
05-05-2010, 06:50 AM
I think the new Sixty9 drop outs that will be out soon are the stuff legends will be made from! Having a D-60 in a drop out with a high or low pinion choice depending on which gears you load it up with is one of the coolest new designs I have seen in a long time!

http://www.jratoffroad.com/

Air Randy
05-05-2010, 08:59 AM
So I'm looking at all different options, thanks for your patience with all of my questions, it's just the process I seem to follow when trying to figure out something like this.

I know the pros & cons of 1 tons and the rough cost

I now know the pros & cons of Diamond style custom axles and the cost

Question: If going with a diamond housing and staying with my toy diff & axles will be strong enough, why couldn't I use chevy 3/4 ton axles? They should be the same width as 1 tons and they're a lot more common, cheaper and would seem to be at least as strong as the toy 8" components. Yes, no?

AxleIke
05-05-2010, 09:10 AM
IMHO, going to a domestic axle without going to one tons is not worth it.

8" toy stuff is pretty good up to about 40's, and with a 4banger.

Plus, you wheel with a bunch of people who carry spares and can likely help out in a jam.

I highly recommend talking with Ben Swain over at Slee, and some of his homies in the HomeGrown Crew.

They run big tires and are REALLY hard on their rigs, and they run all Toyota stuff. No domestic.

Ben is racing his rig, the Raisin, on all toyota stuff and 44's. Pretty sure hes got a Lexus V8 in there too, so he's probably got some secrets on how to keep things together.

AddictedOffroad
05-05-2010, 10:14 AM
So I'm looking at all different options, thanks for your patience with all of my questions, it's just the process I seem to follow when trying to figure out something like this.

I know the pros & cons of 1 tons and the rough cost

I now know the pros & cons of Diamond style custom axles and the cost

Question: If going with a diamond housing and staying with my toy diff & axles will be strong enough, why couldn't I use chevy 3/4 ton axles? They should be the same width as 1 tons and they're a lot more common, cheaper and would seem to be at least as strong as the toy 8" components. Yes, no?

The issue with the D44 fronts is the fact that while the housing is dirt cheap, every other part is significantly more expensive. Highsteer runs around $700 considering you need to drill and tap the PS knuckle. Axle shafts are going to be $800 for Superior(the best) and CTMs run another $400. Gears, lockers, and everything else is more expensive too. 40s are the absolute max I would run on a D44 and its pushing the limit. Also 3/4 ton axles are 8 lug, so that requires new wheels as well or more money to keep them six lug. In all seriousness, its cheaper to build a Diamond than it is to build a D44. And the Diamond is stronger IMHO.

The Diamond opens a lot of options up for you. It will help keep a lot of cost down since you have everything else. In the front you will need the housing, likely only one new shaft, and new steering links for the wider width. You'll gain clearance under the diff and a ton of strength in the housing itself.

The 1 ton route will end up costing a lot more down the road, but its definitely a viable option for you if you see yourself on 42's+.

TIMZTOY
05-05-2010, 10:20 AM
If I'm not mistaken Randy. The major pro of going to the 1 Ton is the added width and extra weight under the rig to help keep all 4 on the ground. Not so much the added strength because you can make a Toyota axle extreamlly strong. Also having a Dana 60 or 14bolt Youll be able to find parts in any autoparts store across the nation and u-joints take up less space than birfields as far as carring spares. And they also sell lifetime gaurenteed not to brake axle u-joints. Don't know about the axles them self. But I'm sure there stornger that most upgraded birf axles

Air Randy
05-05-2010, 10:33 AM
IMHO, going to a domestic axle without going to one tons is not worth it.

Ben is racing his rig, the Raisin, on all toyota stuff and 44's. Pretty sure hes got a Lexus V8 in there too, so he's probably got some secrets on how to keep things together.

I noticed that in some CM photos I saw this morning. Looks like he has the diamond housings running toy HW, just can't tell if its 8" or 9.5" centers.

Uncle Ben
05-05-2010, 10:43 AM
A Cruiser third is stronger than a stock D44 or Ford 9. The weakness of any Toy axle is availability of after-market support. We definitely have a lot more options today but still not nearly as many as domestic axles have. Toy 30 spline axles are the same size as 30 spline domestic axles. Where you gain again is after-market support of 35spline and larger components. A well set up 8.5 Toy carrier (Cruiser) in a Diamond housing and 1 ton spindles is tough stuff but is also all one-off stuff and requires you to have two of everything in your spare parts supply or back to hope and pray nothing breaks. Running OEM stuff cuts out that expense and storage. Also, running 1 ton components does not force you into 8 lug wheels as after-market axle flanges can be drilled for whatever pattern you desire. You could do what I did and run a modified 80 rear axle and a widened and customized FJ-60 front axle to match the 80 rear. That gives you field options when it breaks. The only extra one-off part I have to carry that I wont find a spare of is the custom length Longfield short inner axle for the widened front housing. You can get non-locked rear 80 housings a plenty and the carriers are standard Cruiser dimensions so ARB and Detroit options are easy. I have heard rumor that someone is making 35 spline side gears for ARB Cruiser thirds but I haven't sourced them yet.

AxleIke
05-05-2010, 11:01 AM
If I'm not mistaken Randy. The major pro of going to the 1 Ton is the added width and extra weight under the rig to help keep all 4 on the ground. Not so much the added strength because you can make a Toyota axle extreamlly strong. Also having a Dana 60 or 14bolt Youll be able to find parts in any autoparts store across the nation and u-joints take up less space than birfields as far as carring spares. And they also sell lifetime gaurenteed not to brake axle u-joints. Don't know about the axles them self. But I'm sure there stornger that most upgraded birf axles

Mostly, though built tons are far stronger than built toys, just the nature of the beast: They are bigger. As UB pointed out, you can run 35 spline stuff in 60's and 70's.

Width and weight are nice too.

All about how you drive and how you want to build it. There are many ways to go.

Just one thing I'll throw out there: building a truck that will never break isn't going to happen. Building it strong and carrying spares is about the best you can hope for. Remember, with each weak link you replace, you move the weak link farther up the driveline. Toyota transfercases can handle a lot of abuse, but eventually, a Stak or Atlas behind a big tranny is going to be the next needed item.

Personally, I will be building Toyota axles, as I like them a lot more than domestic stuff because of the removable third and the closed knuckles.

I also don't plan on building a high horsepower trailered buggy.

Anyway, keep up the brainstorming Randy! I love to talk about spending big bucks when its not my money being spent :D:D:D:D:D:D

Uncle Ben
05-05-2010, 11:15 AM
IMHO, going to a domestic axle without going to one tons is not worth it.

8" toy stuff is pretty good up to about 40's, and with a 4banger.

Plus, you wheel with a bunch of people who carry spares and can likely help out in a jam.

I highly recommend talking with Ben Swain over at Slee, and some of his homies in the HomeGrown Crew.

They run big tires and are REALLY hard on their rigs, and they run all Toyota stuff. No domestic.

Ben is racing his rig, the Raisin, on all toyota stuff and 44's. Pretty sure hes got a Lexus V8 in there too, so he's probably got some secrets on how to keep things together.


I have to agree! No one knows how to make Toy stuff pop louder than the Homegrown Crew! Ben is running a Toy 4.7 with slush box double Toy mini case setup with cruiser rear third and mini high pinion front third both in Diamond housings. I think he is running 80 outers on the front....I don't remember.

Air Randy
05-05-2010, 02:27 PM
So after talking to a bunch of different people and reading a bunch on all the forums I think this is one time when doing the build in stages will work to my advantage.

That said I am going to do the 4 link rear/3 link front suspension mods and keep my Toy axles for now. I'm going to put my 39's/MRW beadlocks with 2" back spacing on the mini too. That gives me 3" more width than I have now and adds about 75lbs of weight to each axle end. Those MRW's/Pitbulls are HEAVY, much more so than the 37's on champion aluminum beadlocks.

That way I can keep all of my top notch axle stuff and have spares to boot. That gives me time to research what I want to do if I decide to go to wider axles in the future.

It was interesting to see that FJ80 axles are 63" wide, 5" wider than the IFS axles I have now. I'm assuming FJ80 diffs & axles are totally different from the mini truck stuff? How come you don't read about more people swapping 80 stuff into minis or even 40's? Availability?

Uncle Ben
05-05-2010, 02:45 PM
So after talking to a bunch of different people and reading a bunch on all the forums I think this is one time when doing the build in stages will work to my advantage.

That said I am going to do the 4 link rear/3 link front suspension mods and keep my Toy axles for now. I'm going to put my 39's/MRW beadlocks with 2" back spacing on the mini too. That gives me 3" more width than I have now and adds about 75lbs of weight to each axle end. Those MRW's/Pitbulls are HEAVY, much more so than the 37's on champion aluminum beadlocks.

That way I can keep all of my top notch axle stuff and have spares to boot. That gives me time to research what I want to do if I decide to go to wider axles in the future.

It was interesting to see that FJ80 axles are 63" wide, 5" wider than the IFS axles I have now. I'm assuming FJ80 diffs & axles are totally different from the mini truck stuff? How come you don't read about more people swapping 80 stuff into minis or even 40's? Availability?


80's are holy! Read the 80's mud forum if your not a believer! It will take some folks 10 to 20 pages of debate on what kind of oil to use in them and I don't think anyones ever agreed on what color anti-freeze. Obviously they are so far mechanically advanced that normal mechanical knowledge has no bearing on them! :rolleyes:

Kipper
05-05-2010, 04:14 PM
80's are holy! Read the 80's mud forum if your not a believer! It will take some folks 10 to 20 pages of debate on what kind of oil to use in them and I don't think anyones ever agreed on what color anti-freeze. Obviously they are so far mechanically advanced that normal mechanical knowledge has no bearing on them! :rolleyes:
:lmao: love that rant

J Kimmel
05-05-2010, 04:24 PM
mine are junkyard axles with upgraded 35 spline mosers in the rear, and spicer 35 spline outers up front. Stock joints, stock rest too. No breakage in 5 years and two trucks except for an output on the t-case 3-4 years ago, and a sector shaft on the steering box (before hydro assist).
I personally am not interested in hybrid stuff, Diamond 60/9's or other makes would be great, but soooo expensive to build up.
I'd never do it any other way, stability is awesome, you can run it down the road if you have realistic tires, and it really wasn't that expensive. I've got about 1500 into mine including 8 lug beadlocks after I take away the stuff I sold.

Think long and hard about where you want to be, and what the various stages will cost you.

best money I ever spent :)

AxleIke
05-05-2010, 04:39 PM
So after talking to a bunch of different people and reading a bunch on all the forums I think this is one time when doing the build in stages will work to my advantage.

That said I am going to do the 4 link rear/3 link front suspension mods and keep my Toy axles for now. I'm going to put my 39's/MRW beadlocks with 2" back spacing on the mini too. That gives me 3" more width than I have now and adds about 75lbs of weight to each axle end. Those MRW's/Pitbulls are HEAVY, much more so than the 37's on champion aluminum beadlocks.

That way I can keep all of my top notch axle stuff and have spares to boot. That gives me time to research what I want to do if I decide to go to wider axles in the future.

It was interesting to see that FJ80 axles are 63" wide, 5" wider than the IFS axles I have now. I'm assuming FJ80 diffs & axles are totally different from the mini truck stuff? How come you don't read about more people swapping 80 stuff into minis or even 40's? Availability?

I can answer some of the questions on 80's into minis,

First issue is the rear. The 80 axle is amazing, but has a 4" offset diff, which is a problem for driveshaft angles, and, if you have a stock gas tank in a pre 96 truck, the driveshaft hits the tank. The 80 axles work a bit better in a tacoma, as the pinions are offset only 2 inches from the 80, but you still get vibes. No tank to hit though.

In the front, the 80 axles are again, great, except that they don't work with leaves very well, and high steer is very expensive compared to the mini truck high steer. The tie rod sits below the diff in the rear of the axle, and, IMO, isn't a great location.

Once the aftermarket catches up a bit, I think more 80 front ends will start making appearances. There is a thread on Pirate right now with CAD designs for an 80 knuckle with bolt patterns for normal toyota high steer, and possibly six shooters.

AxleIke
05-05-2010, 04:42 PM
The true benefit of links, IMO, is the ability to drop the truck a BUNCH. 20-22 inches at the frame on 40's would be quite a nice set up, and easily attainable with the links, though get out the sawzall on the front fenders.

Leaf springs necessitate quite a bunch of lift to clear the high steer, which is why I've never considered doing a swap with leafs. The trucks sit way too high for my liking.

treerootCO
05-05-2010, 04:52 PM
Why not go Land Cruiser? ;)

"Load capacity........Long WB: 1 ton rating"
18559

Air Randy
05-05-2010, 06:20 PM
mine are junkyard axles with upgraded 35 spline mosers in the rear, and spicer 35 spline outers up front. Stock joints, stock rest too. No breakage in 5 years and two trucks except for an output on the t-case 3-4 years ago, and a sector shaft on the steering box (before hydro assist).
I personally am not interested in hybrid stuff, Diamond 60/9's or other makes would be great, but soooo expensive to build up.
I'd never do it any other way, stability is awesome, you can run it down the road if you have realistic tires, and it really wasn't that expensive. I've got about 1500 into mine including 8 lug beadlocks after I take away the stuff I sold.

Think long and hard about where you want to be, and what the various stages will cost you.

best money I ever spent :)

I agree and I'm still thinking about 1 tons. But I've spoken with 3 different fabricators. They all agree you can do the F&R links on Toy axles to start with, then swap the axles out later to 1 tons with no major modifications to the links you've already installed.

I was in the situation where I could buy & build 1 tons and put them on my leaf spring suspension or do links now on my Toy axles. The latter seems like the better choice for now. I'm basing that on the fact that the best deal I've found so far on 1 tons is $1200 for a stock Dana60KP front and Dana70 rear out of the same truck. These are stock with 4.10 open diffs. I'm assuming you would need to convert these to 5.38's to avoid undue TC stress and add a front ARB and weld the rear, plus whatever 35 spline upgrades are required. Plus I would have to buy 8 lug beadlocks, so you're talking at least another $2000 right?

J Kimmel
05-05-2010, 06:41 PM
probably close, now take away what you sell your built toy stuff for and you're in the ballpark.

be patient on the axles...I see them routinely in the 1200 range, and every couple of months a front will pop up in the 6-700 range. Thats where you want to be, and you have cash in hand so you can jump.

be patient ;)

Air Randy
05-05-2010, 07:23 PM
probably close, now take away what you sell your built toy stuff for and you're in the ballpark.

be patient on the axles...I see them routinely in the 1200 range, and every couple of months a front will pop up in the 6-700 range. Thats where you want to be, and you have cash in hand so you can jump.

be patient ;)

I was shocked at how cheap they are selling built toy axles for on Pirate. You could buy locked fronts & rears for around $900 for both.

Patience? Jeremy, you obviously don't know me well...............:hill:

I did find a Dana 60 rear with 5.38's & a lockright locker for $500. Is that worth snagging or should I keep shopping?

J Kimmel
05-05-2010, 07:42 PM
if its 35 spline and full float than grab it otherwise, worry about a front end first.

also I found it more advantageous to part out my Toy stuff, sold the thirds, steering, etc all seperately.

art hog
05-05-2010, 07:48 PM
I know of one that is available. PM me if you are still want one.

Terry

ScaldedDog
05-05-2010, 09:26 PM
mine are junkyard axles with upgraded 35 spline mosers in the rear, and spicer 35 spline outers up front. Stock joints, stock rest too. No breakage in 5 years and two trucks except for an output on the t-case 3-4 years ago, and a sector shaft on the steering box (before hydro assist).
I personally am not interested in hybrid stuff, Diamond 60/9's or other makes would be great, but soooo expensive to build up.
I'd never do it any other way, stability is awesome, you can run it down the road if you have realistic tires, and it really wasn't that expensive. I've got about 1500 into mine including 8 lug beadlocks after I take away the stuff I sold.

Think long and hard about where you want to be, and what the various stages will cost you.

best money I ever spent :)

This.

As happy as I am with my Diamonds - and I'm thrilled - I hold no illusions that they are are as strong as built tons. I do like the custom width - 65 3/4" up front, 65" in back - I liked being able to use my existing thirds, and I like the lighter weight. Starting from scratch, though, it's tons. Did you see Jeremy even *think* about breaking anything?

Mark

Air Randy
05-06-2010, 12:14 PM
I just hung up the phone with Brian at Diamond axle. I said "screw it" and went ahead and ordered a front & rear housing from him. I have the IFS spindle hubs on my front end so once I install those on the new housing I'll have a 68" WMS to WMS distance, which is identical to 1 ton GM axles. I'm having the rear made 3" narrower at 65". I'll run 1.5" wheel spacers on them to match the front. That way if I decide I want it a little narrower, I can lose 3" off of the front by going to non-IFS hubs and ditching the rear spacers. That will also allow me to play with my rear tracking width by changing spacer sizes if needed.

It just seemed like it was going to cost a ton of money to buy the 1 tons and add lockers, gears, 35 spline upgrades, etc. Plus all of my Toyota stuff is brand new so I'm not wasting any of that. I drive like such a granny anyways I'll probably never break these anyways. Plus I think I would rather break an axle or a birf instead of a TC out put shaft, much easier to fix.

The diamonds aren't cheap either but I feel good about going this route. So, good bad or otherwise the deed is done, now I can sleep at night :D

RLMS
05-06-2010, 12:26 PM
I just hung up the phone with Brian at Diamond axle. I said "screw it" and went ahead and ordered a front & rear housing from him. I have the IFS spindle hubs on my front end so once I install those on the new housing I'll have a 68" WMS to WMS distance, which is identical to 1 ton GM axles. I'm having the rear made 3" narrower at 65". I'll run 1.5" wheel spacers on them to match the front. That way if I decide I want it a little narrower, I can lose 3" off of the front by going to non-IFS hubs and ditching the rear spacers. That will also allow me to play with my rear tracking width by changing spacer sizes if needed.

It just seemed like it was going to cost a ton of money to buy the 1 tons and add lockers, gears, 35 spline upgrades, etc. Plus all of my Toyota stuff is brand new so I'm not wasting any of that. I drive like such a granny anyways I'll probably never break these anyways. Plus I think I would rather break an axle or a birf instead of a TC out put shaft, much easier to fix.

The diamonds aren't cheap either but I feel good about going this route. So, good bad or otherwise the deed is done, now I can sleep at night :D

Oh boy, randy pulled a "Jay"

I cant wait to get my fingers on them!!!

Justin

Air Randy
05-06-2010, 12:41 PM
See what happens when you leave me unsupervised for this length of time? I am totally out of control :eek:, but who cares? You only live once and you can't take it with you.

Brian does need to know a couple of things: Do we want anything special as far as pinion angle and caster? He thinks the normal way he builds them will be fine since were linking it and have a HP diff in front.

He also needs to know if we want to move the center section in or out from the stock location? He said the stock location is normally OK with links since I'm staying with the 22re.

Does Jay need axle housings for his build?

AxleIke
05-06-2010, 01:27 PM
Randy, just have Brian build the housings without welding on the balls. Then you can build the suspension to your exact specs, set the pinion angle perfect, and then set and weld the balls on at the correct caster angle.

Air Randy
05-06-2010, 02:22 PM
Yeah, Justin was going to call him and have him do that.

Uncle Ben
05-06-2010, 03:21 PM
I drive like such a granny anyways I'll probably never break these anyways. :D

That is a great quote to lock down! :rolleyes: :p:

DaveInDenver
05-06-2010, 03:32 PM
I drive like such a granny

http://www.faillol.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/granny-parking.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm125/abusedemotionally/200703201835.jpg

http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/attachment.php?attachmentid=18554&stc=1&d=1273075676

J Kimmel
05-06-2010, 04:01 PM
nice...:)

You'll like it :)

nakman
05-06-2010, 04:43 PM
LOL!! OMG, Dave, tff.. :lmao: :lmao: :bowdown:

ScaldedDog
05-06-2010, 04:55 PM
Randy, just have Brian build the housings without welding on the balls. Then you can build the suspension to your exact specs, set the pinion angle perfect, and then set and weld the balls on at the correct caster angle.

This. I wish I'd done it that way. On the other hand, I never accidentally leave my hubs locked anymore... :D

Mark

Air Randy
05-06-2010, 09:46 PM
http://www.faillol.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/granny-parking.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm125/abusedemotionally/200703201835.jpg

http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/attachment.php?attachmentid=18554&stc=1&d=1273075676

Dave, you missed your calling in life, that is too funny! Someone needs to take the picture of my rollover and photshop the old lady from the red car photo into it.