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RicardoJM
05-08-2010, 08:47 PM
Well over a year ago I started collecting parts to put a 4 speed transmission into my FJ40. I have an F.5 engine with new gaskets and seals, a ceramic coated 6 into 1 header, a new diaphragm clutch, 4 speed transmission, 4 speed t-case and 3.70 thirds ready to go in. After that, a new exhaust will be done. This is an very interesting learning experience and the largest project I've take on.

I'll add pictures and notes, observations to this thread and post up my progress along the way. Here is the new (to me) engine.
http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/ricardojm/4speedengine/w_4speed100.jpg
http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/ricardojm/4speedengine/w_4speed101.jpg

As of this evening, the 3 speed t-case, transmission, transmission hump have been removed. Considering that the seats, heater and gas tank all need to be moved somewhat, I'm pretty pleased that I have only one broken bolt head.

Tomorrow is Mothers Day so I won't get very much work done. Perhaps I'll progress some during the evenings this week. It is nice to finally be into this project and I'm looking forward to the end result.

subzali
05-08-2010, 10:40 PM
Well over a year ago I started collecting parts to put a speed transmission into my FJ40.

I wouldn't count on it giving you much extra speed! :lmao:



...Cool project Ricardo! Why are you going 3.7 gears? And why didn't you pull the whole shebang out all in one shot?

MDH33
05-09-2010, 08:44 AM
I'll be watching this thread to find out what you learn. Someday I'd like to do the 4 speed swap as well. :beer:

Jacket
05-09-2010, 09:34 AM
'bout time ;)

Looking forward to watching your progress. Too bad you live way down there on the south side.... :ranger:

Uncle Ben
05-09-2010, 10:10 AM
While you have easy access I would make a simple fluid heat riser for the bottom of the intake. Very simple to do task and you will be very glad you did next winter!

kvanoort
05-09-2010, 10:56 AM
I see you've upgraded to an electronic ignition as well. Nice work!:thumb:

theboomboom
05-10-2010, 10:16 AM
Matt-
We're installing the 3.70 thirds in an attempt to lower the highway revs and hopefully make it a more livable 65 mph truck. Also, we're removing the transmission and t-case separately because of the way the truck is pulled into the garage. In order to pull everything out on the hoist, the truck would have to be pulled out to the downhill sloping driveway without a good way of getting it back in the garage.

TIMZTOY
05-10-2010, 10:30 AM
Just push it with your other car ! Place a old tire or wood betweer the bumpers. And slowlly push ! It would make the whole motor process much more enjoyable.

RicardoJM
05-10-2010, 11:01 AM
I see you've upgraded to an electronic ignition as well. Nice work!:thumb:

I've been running an electronic ignition (78 small cap dizzy and 60 series coil/ignitor) since last summer:thumb:. I'm pretty excited to have be making the move to the 60 series dizzy. My carb still does not have the ported vacuum :( but there will be time to take care of that this summer.

While you have easy access I would make a simple fluid heat riser for the bottom of the intake. Very simple to do task and you will be very glad you did next winter!

My fab skills and equipment are not sufficient at this stage:o, so I'll have to go with the man-a-fre riser. This will likely be something that I add on after getting it all up and running.

Matt-
We're installing the 3.70 thirds in an attempt to lower the highway revs and hopefully make it a more livable 65 mph truck. Also, we're removing the transmission and t-case separately because of the way the truck is pulled into the garage. In order to pull everything out on the hoist, the truck would have to be pulled out to the downhill sloping driveway without a good way of getting it back in the garage.
Of course, the 3.70 thirds may not work out very well when driving in the mountains.:D

Just push it with your other car ! Place a old tire or wood betweer the bumpers. And slowlly push ! It would make the whole motor process much more enjoyable.

The access is also gets complicated by the garage door itself. I've been giving this all some more thought and will try to put everything in as a single unit. If we position the truck at an angle coming into the garage, we should have enough room to put everything in. :thumb:

Uncle Ben
05-10-2010, 01:01 PM
My fab skills and equipment are not sufficient at this stage:o, so I'll have to go with the man-a-fre riser. This will likely be something that I add on after getting it all up and running.





You need a square 3" x 4" 1/4" steel plate, a 3/8" bit, 7/16" bit, 3/8" pipe tap and a couple fittings found at Home Depot or Lowes.......thats beyond your capabilities?

RicardoJM
05-10-2010, 01:23 PM
You need a square 3" x 4" 1/4" steel plate, a 3/8" bit, 7/16" bit, 3/8" pipe tap and a couple fittings found at Home Depot or Lowes.......thats beyond your capabilities?

Well, put that way - it seems within the realm of what I can do. The 3" X 4" 1/4" steel plate, I can pick up at Altitude. I should have the drill bit.

The 3/8" pipe tap would be new to me, my tap and die set is all metric. The fittings are bit less clear to me. Conceptually, I understand that all these things come together to route engine coolant around/under the intake.

I know others have fabricated this, was even documented in Trails many years ago. The closest I've been able to find on a "Ricardo understandable" write up was a reference and pictures by Ed Long (http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/23837-fluid-heat-riser-picture.html) on MUD. Alas, my mind doesn't have it all figured out.

I'd like to give this a go and would even document the process, but I could use some help on the details. :D

corsair23
05-10-2010, 01:39 PM
I'd like to give this a go and would even document the process, but I could use some help on the details. :D

Ricardo,

I've got a heat riser kit sitting in my garage...Bought it years ago (yeah, big surprise right Wes? :hill:) for the '76 but haven't gotten around to installing it.

If you're interested in borrowing it to see how it is all put together/works, feel free to swing by. Not sure what make it is but I think it is a complete setup and it might help you with the details. I've also got large Craftsman tap & die set with metric and SAE if you're looking for a 3/8" tap :thumb:

rover67
05-10-2010, 01:45 PM
Ricardo,

I've got a heat riser kit sitting in my garage...Bought it years ago (yeah, big surprise right Wes? :hill:) for the '76 but haven't gotten around to installing it.

If you're interested in borrowing it to see how it is all put together/works, feel free to swing by. Not sure what make it is but I think it is a complete setup and it might help you with the details. I've also got large Craftsman tap & die set with metric and SAE if you're looking for a 3/8" tap :thumb:

There is your pattern Ricardo...

All it is is a plate with holes in it and some fittings...

subzali
05-10-2010, 10:41 PM
I've got a heat riser kit sitting in my garage...Bought it years ago (yeah, big surprise right Wes? :hill:) for the '76 but haven't gotten around to installing it.


If I got a nickel for every time you said that...

:hill:

corsair23
05-11-2010, 12:25 AM
If I got a nickel for every time you said that...

:hill:

I know...it is like a disease :lmao:

RicardoJM
05-11-2010, 08:36 AM
I'm keeping the vacuum shift system and needed to swap over the hi-low shift arm from my 3 speed case to the 4 speed case. The hi-low shift arm is under the big pile of gunga on the right. The shift arm has a flat spot on its shaft and the location of this flat spot is different on the two t-cases. It is not difficult to make the swap and in my situation essential to get done.

http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/ricardojm/4speedengine/w_4speed102.jpg

I also needed to move the parking brake cable over to the 4 speed t-case. As I was into the parking brake on the 3 speed t-case moving these parts over I was pleased to see that the oil seal I replaced last summer was holding up with no sign of leaking. :D

My FJ40 has always leaked 90 weight from the top cover of the t-case. With it removed from the truck, it was a bit easier to inspect it and the leak is coming from the hi-low shift arm area as indicated in the picture above. There is a seal for the hi-low shift arm and it likely failed from pressure build up due to the breather on the cover being plugged up with gunga.

The other significant item of note to log relates to the 3 speed transmission. The output shaft moves in and out almost a 1/4":eek:. I'm pretty sure it is not supposed to do that.
http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/ricardojm/4speedengine/w_4speed103.jpg
http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/ricardojm/4speedengine/w_4speed104.jpg


Here are the 3 speed transmission and t-case that will be replaced.
http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/ricardojm/4speedengine/w_4speed105.jpg

I'll likely rebuild the t-case (future project) and pull the transmission input shaft to use as a clutch alignment tool.

RicardoJM
05-11-2010, 08:42 AM
Work on the engine removal progressed a bit with some teardown activity. I had some help for a while.

http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/ricardojm/4speedengine/w_4speed106.jpg

TheBoomBoom took care of draining the radiator and cleaning up the inevitable spill mess (not too bad this time around:D) and it was a nice break for me that I did not have to crawl under the truck yesterday. Then some kids showed up in a FJ Cruiser and in a flash my help was gone. No worries, I continued with the tear down; removing the alternator, radiator, fan shroud, fan & pulley, air cleaner, battery and plug wires. The engine bay is looking less cluttered:thumb:.

http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/ricardojm/4speedengine/w_4speed107.jpg

http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/ricardojm/4speedengine/w_4speed108.jpg

The garage and back of the 40 are getting pretty full of stuff.
http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/ricardojm/4speedengine/w_4speed109.jpg

http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/ricardojm/4speedengine/w_4speed110.jpg

MDH33
05-11-2010, 08:43 AM
Nice job so far Ricardo. :thumb:

What did your 4 speed and Tcase come out of and what are you planning to use for driveshafts?

RicardoJM
05-11-2010, 08:44 AM
I know...it is like a disease :lmao:

I'm glad you have the disease, now I have a model for fabricating a fluid riser. :D

RicardoJM
05-11-2010, 08:53 AM
Nice job so far Ricardo. :thumb:

What did your 4 speed and Tcase come out of and what are you planning to use for driveshafts?

Thanks, we are well into it now. It is a busy time with school activities but I am very optimistic that it will be back on the road soon.

Originally the transmission, t-case, bell housing and drive shafts came out of a truck in the junk yard (http://risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showthread.php?t=8889&highlight=dean) - wow your twin brother Jacket is right; it is about time I got around to doing this project:hill:. The output shaft on the transmission (http://risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showthread.php?t=12771&highlight=transmission+output) had some severe wear so I bought Air Randy's old H42 and will be putting that one in instead of the junkyard special.

MDH33
05-11-2010, 09:10 AM
Thanks, we are well into it now. It is a busy time with school activities but I am very optimistic that it will be back on the road soon.

Originally the transmission, t-case, bell housing and drive shafts came out of a truck in the junk yard (http://risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showthread.php?t=8889&highlight=dean) - wow your twin brother Jacket is right; it is about time I got around to doing this project:hill:. The output shaft on the transmission (http://risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showthread.php?t=12771&highlight=transmission+output) had some severe wear so I bought Air Randy's old H42 and will be putting that one in instead of the junkyard special.

So, are the new 3.7 diffs out of a 60? If so, what are you doing about the difference in the bolt patterns on the driveshafts/diff flanges?

RicardoJM
05-11-2010, 09:35 AM
So, are the new 3.7 diffs out of a 60? If so, what are you doing about the difference in the bolt patterns on the driveshafts/diff flanges?

I don't know what the 3.7 are originally out of, but it doesn't really matter. In 78 the spline count on the pinion shaft increased, and some prefer these later ones as more splines are stronger. I'm sure there is some validity to that, but there are plenty of older rigs with the "less strong" coarse spline pinion shafts in service and doing well after 40 years of use. Both will break, but I didn't find in my research that the later ones are a must have kind of deal.

The pinion flange bolt pattern off the 4.1 third members in my truck are from 1971 and do not work with the 4 speed drive shafts. I fussed with this more than I should have and with Corsair23 style have set myself up with options. :D


I picked up a pair of 3.7 third members that come with pinion flanges that match my 4 speed drive shafts.
I also picked up a pair of pinion flanges (coarse splined) from Ed Long (DEGNOL on MUD) with the correct pattern.


Interestingly enough, when going through my 4 speed tcase, the output pinion flange was not good. Rust had developed on the shaft and I could not smooth it out. If I had used it, in short order the seal would fail. Turns out the t-case output shaft is fine splined - so I picked up one of the universal pattern flanges to replace the bad one.

MDH33
05-11-2010, 09:46 AM
Good info, thanks. :thumb:

nattybumppo
05-11-2010, 06:17 PM
Keep those engine removal/replacement pictures coming. Sometime in the next year or so I will be doing this, and I'm going to school on you!

L43dean
05-11-2010, 09:50 PM
Hello Ricardo! Are you going 4 on the floor (drill the hump,gasp!) or Mark Algazy's 4 on the tree design?

RicardoJM
05-12-2010, 07:56 AM
Hello Ricardo! Are you going 4 on the floor (drill the hump,gasp!) or Mark Algazy's 4 on the tree design?

Dean, good to see you back on the interweb thing:thumb:. One of the previous owner(s) of my switched over to 3 speed on the floor from 3 on the tree before I bought the truck; my hump has already been drilled and violated.

MDH33
05-12-2010, 07:59 AM
... my hump has already been drilled and violated.

:lmao:

Rzeppa
05-12-2010, 09:45 AM
... to swap over the hi-low shift arm from my 3 speed case to the 4 speed case.

Why not use the 3-speed case for the lower gears? Or put the 3-speed gears into the 4-speed case (slightly stronger case) with idler shimming? FWIW, rebuilding a t-case is pretty easy. The only issue I had was getting the rear output shaft unmated from the inner bearing race, but a friend showed me a trick that worked well.

corsair23
05-12-2010, 12:27 PM
...my hump has already been drilled and violated.

I wish I had more space to add that to my sig line :lmao:

RicardoJM
05-13-2010, 08:17 AM
Why not use the 3-speed case for the lower gears?

While I'd like to layout a well reasoned, rational that will bring clarity to new people that read this thread and provides justification for others who have made the same decision - fact is I just :dunno: and can not say.

This project is a long journey with many forks in the path. Those that have taken on large projects like this have had to deal with the same sort of "this would be easier while I'm in there" types of decisions. I can say that one of the aspects I enjoyed was researching and debating each of these forks in the path. I learned quite a bunch talking to others and reading all the information available on the web:D.

RicardoJM
05-13-2010, 08:30 AM
I didn't work on the truck Tuesday evening. Yesterday afternoon, I continued with the tear down. I removed the radiator support, starter, coolant lines and disconnected the shift linkage on the passenger side. On the drivers side, the carburetor is off, the vacuum lines are removed from the manifold and the temperature sensor wire has been disconnected. I also removed the exhaust from the truck.
http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/ricardojm/4speedengine/w_4speed111.jpg

The engine is getting very close to being ready to pull out:D. The upper heater hose, oil pressure sender wire, clutch slave and power steering pump are the only things that must be removed to pull the engine - but I'm also going to pull the oil filter mount (and hoses) front bib and manifolds because it will help to have the clearance.

RicardoJM
05-13-2010, 09:27 PM
The only thing (other than the engine mount bolts) attached to my engine is the clutch slave. It did not look like what I was expecting, so I took some pictures instead of removing it. There is no return spring:(, I'm going to have to get one of those. I thought the slave would be bolted fully to the housing, but it has one end bolted on a bracket. :confused:
http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/ricardojm/4speedengine/w_4speed112.jpg

The passenger side of the engine is clear.
http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/ricardojm/4speedengine/w_4speed113.jpg

The drivers side of the engine is clear.
http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/ricardojm/4speedengine/w_4speed114.jpg

It is much easier to work the more things are removed:D. Overall, the teardown has been time consuming, but smooth. I had the one broken bolt on the tranny cover. The only other fragile bolts were on the battery tray, but fortunately they all came out with no breakage.

RicardoJM
05-16-2010, 10:08 AM
We had swimming Friday evening and again yesterday afternoon; congratulations to HutHut - State Swim meet qualifier :thumb:.
http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/ricardojm/4speedengine/w_huthut.jpg

After getting back from the junk yard yesterday morning, I set about to disconnecting the clutch slave and engine mounts. TheBoomBoom rolled out of bed about that time and gave me a hand in removing the engine.
http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/ricardojm/4speedengine/w_4speed115.jpg


The removal went very smoothly and without issue. By removing all the accessories from the side of the engine and the cover plates at the bottom of the engine bay, the only things left to manuver around are the steering box and driver side front brake hard line. In about 10 minutes time, the engine was clear. This photo does not clearly show it, but the back wall (just out of sight) makes the clearance too tight to put/pull the engine, tranny and t-case as a unit.
http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/ricardojm/4speedengine/w_4speed116.jpg


A little sprucing up and cleaning while the engine is out and then it will be ready for the new engine. It will be much easier to clean things up with this much room.
http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/ricardojm/4speedengine/w_4speed117.jpg


I've got to move over some accessories to the new engine, so I'll work on getting the old engine up on a stand. This will also let the :Princess: park her car in the garage tonight. She is very accustomed to doing that:D.
http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/ricardojm/4speedengine/w_4speed118.jpg

wesintl
05-16-2010, 10:20 AM
After getting back from the junk yard yesterday morning,

anything good in the yard? any 80's. lookin good Ricardo! That second career is waiting:beer:

Jacket
05-16-2010, 09:14 PM
Dumb question...what are the chains attached to on the engine? Doesn't look like it was wrapped around the block?

rover67
05-16-2010, 09:19 PM
Dumb question...what are the chains attached to on the engine? Doesn't look like it was wrapped around the block?

The lifting Hooks :D

Jacket
05-16-2010, 09:37 PM
:homer:

RicardoJM
05-16-2010, 09:45 PM
anything good in the yard? any 80's. lookin good Ricardo! That second career is waiting:beer:
I didn't walk around. I considered myself lucky to have found what I was looking for on the first 60 I walked up to and that the ground was not sopping wet under that truck.

Dumb question...what are the chains attached to on the engine? Doesn't look like it was wrapped around the block?
Marco got it right. There are hooks on the engine. The front one attached at the same place as the alternator bracket. The rear one is on the drivers side.

RicardoJM
05-17-2010, 08:37 AM
Before I got too far into my work, one of our members stopped by and I went for a ride in his new tow rig:thumb:. It is a nice truck and I'm sure he'll post up soon. With the joy ride out of the way, I set about to darining the coolant out of the block on the old engine. The passage way was very clogged up with a hard crusty like debris. It took some poking and proding with a pick to break through. Once I had broken through, it flowed out very nicely.

http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/ricardojm/4speedengine/w_4speed119.jpg

Next up was removal of the clutch fork, clutch, flywheel and bellhousing. The clutch fork came out pretty smoothly, just remove the bolt that holds the pivot ball and the fork assembly easily slides out.

With the clutch fork out, there are 6 bolts that hold the pressure plate. These should be 12mm heads, but one of them had been replaced and had a 13mm head. To access these bolts, I rotated the engine using the big ole nut socket on a breaker bar. I still haven't put my hands on a clutch alignment tool, but my brass punch did an ok job of holding everything up until I wanted it to drop down. As it turns out, I needn't have been too concerned about the pressure plate an clutch falling out because the pivot ball keeps these parts from falling to the ground. After removing the the pivot ball a second time, the pressure plate and clutch were out.

The flywheel is held on my 6 bolts. These bolts have tabs and usually the tabs are bent up on the sides to hold the bolts in place. My tabs were not bent up. My bolts were in very tight. My impact wrench would not break them loose. It took a breaker bar to get enough leverage to break them loose. This part of the operation took me a while to get done. When using the breaker bar, I had to figure out how to keep the flywheel from rotating. I finally settled on a chisel braced through the starter hole to hold the flywheel. This combination worked out best. With the bolts all removed, a few gentle taps with the BFH and brass punch and the flywheel was on the ground.

The bell housing is held on with 6 bolts. Four of these are inside the bell housing and two are on top. These came out very easily. Once again, the BFH and brass punch were employed and the bell housing was off. Turns out this was a dirty job and there would be some cleaning needed. Jacket, you can see the passenger side engine hook in this photo.

http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/ricardojm/4speedengine/w_4speed120.jpg

With these items removed, I was ready to put the old engine on a stand. It was at this point that I realized the engine stand I had did not have the four arms at the bracket:(. The bracket does not line up with the holes on the engine block. So I used the big timbers (in the photo above) to cradle the engine and have the hoist still attached for good measure. It now sits in front of the FJ40 (no picture) and the :Princess: car is back in the garage. :thumb:

http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/ricardojm/4speedengine/w_4speed121.jpg

I spent the balance of the afternoon cleaning tools, garage floor, bellhousing and painting the motor mount brackets. Here are dirty tools.

http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/ricardojm/4speedengine/w_4speed122.jpg

Here are clean tools. :D
http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/ricardojm/4speedengine/w_4speed123.jpg

Here are the cleaned up 3 speed bellhousing (never knew it was blue) and the painted engine mounts.
http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/ricardojm/4speedengine/w_4speed124.jpg

http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/ricardojm/4speedengine/w_4speed125.jpg

This wrenching is physically tough work. I really admire the people that do this for a living; all day every day. :bowdown:

Rzeppa
05-20-2010, 04:15 PM
FYI, the bracketry on the clutch slave is for the 3-on-the-tree linkage. It looks like you are missing the plate that the return spring attaches to.

On the gunga in the coolant drain plug on the left rear of the engine, every F I've taken apart is massively clogged with deposits in there.

Oh - on the engine stand missing the mounting legs, I have a spare stand already set up for F/2Fs. You are welcome to borrow the whole stand or just the mounting legs if you'd like.

Lookin' good Ricardo.

RicardoJM
05-23-2010, 08:44 PM
I didn't get much of anything done last week and yesterday due to a bunch of other committments. Today, we put the new engine in:D. I was hoping to get the transmission stabbed before calling it a day but broke a clutch bolt that retains the pressure plate to the flywheel. A real bummer:(. I used brand new OEM bolts for the bell housing to engine and flywheel, but was reusing the old pressure plate bolts and it was just too much for one of them.

TheBoomBoom gave me a hand today:thumb: and I was very glad to have the extra set of hands. The engine went in a bunch smoother that what I was expecting. We took our time and used the leveler to slowly work the load back and into place. We also removed the rear brackets from the side of the bell housing and put them on after clearing the steering box and brake line. This one adjustment to the process made a huge difference in ease. As needed, we used a floor jack for slight adjustments from below. The picture didn't come out so great, but here is the new engine in its new home.

http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/ricardojm/4speedengine/w_4speed126.jpg

I managed to ruin a pilot bearing during install. After a quick trip to NAPA we had sourced a new bearing, sealed on both sides. I like it better than the OEM issue bearing. In short order the new pilot bearing was installed. With a new rear main seal and pilot bearing, things are starting to look good.
http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/ricardojm/4speedengine/w_4speed127.jpg

The flywheel was put on with new OEM bolts and lock plates. Each bolt was coated with ultra black so it should not leak. The ends of the lock plates were bent up.
http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/ricardojm/4speedengine/w_4speed128.jpg

Next, we got the clutch up and in position and started to attach the bolts. I got all six threaded in by hand and then was working them in a couple of turns at a time when one of them snapped. So, down came the clutch and pressure plate. I'm hoping to lay my hands on a right angle drill so that tomorrow afternoon I can get at it with a left hand drill bit or extractor. I'm pretty sure it will come right out. I'm trying to avoid having to drop the flywheel, but if it comes to that - down it will have to come.

Once the clutch is done, the tranny should slide right in. The t-case will not slide right on because of interference from a frame cross member. This should not be too big of a problem as we will remove the engine mount bolts and angle the back down to install the t-case. With the hoist, the leveler and a jack underneath it should go pretty smooth.

RicardoJM
05-24-2010, 10:07 PM
I was hoping to get the transmission stabbed before calling it a day but broke a clutch bolt that retains the pressure plate to the flywheel. A real bummer:(.


I'm hoping to lay my hands on a right angle drill so that tomorrow afternoon I can get at it with a left hand drill bit or extractor. I'm pretty sure it will come right out. I'm trying to avoid having to drop the flywheel, but if it comes to that - down it will have to come.


I found a right angle drill, but there was not enough clearance to get a straight on shot at the bolt. I pulled the fly wheel off and had the broken bolt out in 10 minutes. :thumb:

Got the clutch installed and called it for the evening and will get back to it tomorrow.

corsair23
05-24-2010, 11:03 PM
You go dude :thumb:

Keep up the great work Ricardo...I like wrenching vicariously through you :hill:

ZIronPig
05-24-2010, 11:47 PM
Got the clutch installed and called it for the evening and will get back to it tomorrow.


Pullin' for you Ricardo! We need you on the "Retro Run" in less than 2 weeks!

RicardoJM
05-25-2010, 10:48 AM
FYI, the bracketry on the clutch slave is for the 3-on-the-tree linkage. It looks like you are missing the plate that the return spring attaches to.

Oh - on the engine stand missing the mounting legs, I have a spare stand already set up for F/2Fs. You are welcome to borrow the whole stand or just the mounting legs if you'd like.
You are correct, the photo from your engine swap really helped clear this up for me. Now that I have the new engine in the truck, I got the old engine up on the stand. Regarding the engine stand without mounting legs, it was Daniel M.'s originally and is currently with Tom R. It will need mounting legs before it can be used for an F/2F engine.

Lookin' good Ricardo.

You go dude :thumb:

Keep up the great work Ricardo...I like wrenching vicariously through you :hill:

Pullin' for you Ricardo! We need you on the "Retro Run" in less than 2 weeks!

Thanks for encouragement:D. I've always been a slower working wrench, and most of my projects take me a long time to get done. Looking back on this thread, I pulled the truck out of service at the beginning of the month. Getting the drive train back in and engine accessories on should be done by the end of the weekend - but I will still need to get the exhaust and some fab work on lengthening the hi-low shift rod done before it gets back into daily services. I'd like to drive it to the June meeting, but may not get it all done by then.

RicardoJM
05-25-2010, 10:27 PM
Again this evening TheBoomBoom gave me a hand, it is really nice having help around. Rick, I really appreciate the extra hand:thumb:. After dinner, we set about installing the transmission. Compared to the Bronco, the FJ40 transmission is smaller and lighter; but still not something that you can just bench press up. We used the transmission jack to get it up in the neighborhood and through the clutch disk. Then we realized the transmission was in neutral as we tried to rotate the shaft to align the grooves. So we got it put into 3rd and in short order the input shaft was through the disk.

It is about this point that the alignment needs to be spot on and we were just a tad off. Between us we didn't have enough muscle to get it all aligned so we put the rear of the tranny on the engine hoist and put a floor jack at the front of the tranny. With these in place at each end we were able to raise/lower as needed to slowly and gently work the shaft through the pilot bearing. The adjustments we made were very small and subtle, it is amazing how being just a few mm off can make such a big difference.

http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/ricardojm/4speedengine/w_4speed129.jpg

http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/ricardojm/4speedengine/w_4speed130.jpg

Compared to the Bronco, this went much faster. It took us about an hour and a half from start to finish. We still had time to start on the t-case install, but it occured to me that I had not checked the pre-load at the parking brake yet, nor had I replaced the output seal :o. I spent the balance of the evening listening to the baseball game on the radio, checking the pre-load and buttoning up parking brake with a new output seal and gasket. The t-case is all ready to go on the transmission tomorrow, hopefully my helper is available as well:D.

treerootCO
05-25-2010, 11:08 PM
Looking good! :thumb:

On the '79 and later 40s, the t-case and transmission need to be installed as an assembled unit.

Jacket
05-26-2010, 03:54 PM
Still lookin' good Ricardo. Very impressive. Thanks for all the documentation and pics.

RicardoJM
05-26-2010, 10:43 PM
This evening our objective was to install the t-case. We would remove the engine mounts, tilt the engine back using the hoist on top and a jack underneath to deal with the clearance issue. Then we'd slide the t-case on, rotate the whole thing up and be done.

Everything started out just fine. It took some good huffing and puffing and my arms are going to be hurting tomorrow, but the t-case went on according to plan. We then proceeded to have some difficulty with getting the engine mounts back in place. The details and sequence are all a blur now, but I'll be thinking about it more when my head hits the pillow. Long story short, I now know there is enough room in my garage to pull the engine, tranny and t-case as a unit. I am glad that we didn't press on until something broke or someone was hurt; we had the good sense to pull everything out when we tilted the leveler too far to be turned the other way.

http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/ricardojm/4speedengine/w_4speed131.jpg

Despite the set back, I'm still confident in getting the job done. That said, I could use some input on a couple of subjects;
1) Engine hoist rigging - We are struggling with getting the location of the hooks, leveler and chain to the point where the unit rises close to level and the leveler is still in the middle. The unit is heavy on the rear end.
2) Dealing with the passenger side twist - because of the transfer case the entire unit is a bit heavier passenger side and therefore has twists a bit to that side when in the air.

Both of the above were not an issue when we were installing just the engine, but now with the added components they are perplexing me. While I'll figure it out eventually (I smell the cheese somewhere), I would appreciate all insight on the subject, the above photo shows the current set up.

corsair23
05-27-2010, 01:29 AM
I've never used an engine hoist before but can you adjust where the leveler sits to bias it more toward the front of the engine?

Where it is now assumes the CG of the entire setup is still in the middle of the engine...That was probably true as you state with just the engine. Your CG in relation to the engine has shifted way forward now though due to the tranny and t-case hanging off the back of the engine.

My thought is if you were to move the leveler 3 or 4 chain links toward the front of the engine that might be the trick :confused:

If you need some help this weekend give me a ring...It'll be hit and miss all weekend due to a soccer tournament but the stars and moon might align that I can swing by :thumb:

subzali
05-27-2010, 07:56 AM
corsair, you gotta stop thinking in the middle of the night, all bleary eyed...:D

CG shifted BACK because of the weight of the tcase and tranny...I've not used an engine hoist much, so can't help you with rigging it (especially to prevent the torquing issue due to the t-case). Only thing I would think is to just let it be with the butt end down a little bit. Get the rear motor mounts lined up and get some bolts in them, then use a jack under the t-case to lift the rear up until you can get the front motor mounts aligned and bolted. Or, is the engine block heavy enough so that if the rear motor mounts were bolted you could lower the engine hoist and the front will settle on its own? I would think so...

Air Randy
05-27-2010, 09:14 AM
1-Slide your crankshaft pulley back on the front of the motor, it's enough weight extended out there that it will help some to offset the weight of the t case

2-If you cant deal with the pass side lean by having someone just lift on it, try moving your rear hoisting point to the pass side of the motor. That way both chain attach point will be on the pass side. I cant remember if there are any threaded holes on the side cover side big enough to handle the weight of the motor. If not, pop your valve cover off and put the hoisting hook under the rear head bolt on that side. That may give you enough of an off center lift to offset the extra weight on that side.

3-Move your leveler further back or get rid of it completely. Some times they are more trouble than they are worth. Do a trial and error lift with the hoist hook in diff spots of the chain towards the rear of the motor. Once you find the perfect balance point, put a bolt through the chain on both sides of the hoist hook to lock it into place. Properly balanced, you should be able to tilt the motor enough by hand to get it to drop in.

4-One more trick to consider: Remove your front tires & wheels and lower the front end on to 2 of those 6x6 timbers, one under each side of the axle tube. This will let the front end "kneel" quite a bit and you may not have to tilt the engine/tranny/tcase setup much if at all. You also don't have to lift it as high so its easier to man handle.

Let me know when you're attacking it again and I'll come give you a hand.

Uncle Ben
05-27-2010, 09:20 AM
The engine gear box assembly needs to be low at the t-case when inserting. Use a floor jack under the t-case (in parallel with the vehicle) to lift the rear along with the leveler to even the assembly once it's against the firewall.

farnhamstj
05-27-2010, 09:39 AM
I'd use Randy's #4 for sure. Pull the front wheels. Then you don't have to hoist as high to clear the front bumper/crossbars. Also, Why have you not removed front fenders? It'll give you more room to work.

Rzeppa
05-27-2010, 12:30 PM
I was hoping to get the transmission stabbed before calling it a day but broke a clutch bolt that retains the pressure plate to the flywheel. A real bummer:(. I used brand new OEM bolts for the bell housing to engine and flywheel, but was reusing the old pressure plate bolts and it was just too much for one of them.

Next, we got the clutch up and in position and started to attach the bolts. I got all six threaded in by hand and then was working them in a couple of turns at a time when one of them snapped. So, down came the clutch and pressure plate. I'm hoping to lay my hands on a right angle drill so that tomorrow afternoon I can get at it with a left hand drill bit or extractor. I'm pretty sure it will come right out. I'm trying to avoid having to drop the flywheel, but if it comes to that - down it will have to come.


Exact same happened to me once. There was enough of the broken bolt sticking out that I was able to cut a groove in it with the thin wheel on a Dremel and use a flat blade screwdriver to back it out.

corsair23
05-27-2010, 07:20 PM
corsair, you gotta stop thinking in the middle of the night, all bleary eyed...:D

:lmao: - You're right...I bet no one invites me over to help level out their engine, or help build a plane for that matter :hill:

RicardoJM
05-28-2010, 10:41 PM
:The engine, tranny and t-case are all now in the truck:thumb:. TheBoomBoom and I went out this evening and in short order we had everything up in the air and over the front frame rail.

From there it was a slow process of lower, lift, check clearance with an occasional push/pull, move the floor jack and "hows it looking, how do we get it to move where we want it" orchestration until we had the drivers front engine mount in place:D. Next, the drivers rear engine mount was in place followed by the passenger rear. Finally we got the passenger front mount in. Each mount was initially put in loose and then once they were all in place, we tightened them up. Having them loose allowed the little movement needed to get all the holes to line up. :D

No pictures tonight, perhaps I'll get some posted up over the weekend. I am really happy to have the big stuff in place. Now it is a matter of engine accessories, drive shafts, fluids and electrical, all things I've done before. I've got an appointment Tuesday for the new exhaust.

The input from others that we got on the thread was really helpful for getting the whole unit in. The biggest single factor change from a couple of nights ago was getting the leveler to where the whole unit lifted level. This is done by moving the leveler to the rear, most of the way to the end. While I don't have a picture of this, Jeff Z's Engine Refresh and Timm B's 73 Build Up thread have great pictures that show just how far back the leveler needs to be.

We also removed the top arm of the hi-low shifter from the t-case. Going in, this part really wanted to catch on the floor pan. With it removed it was much easier to slide the works back. We are going to need to dimple a floor brace to get the top arm back installed, but this is needed for clearance of the shifter anyway.

We also removed the engine mounts from the bell housing and front passenger side of the engine. Each mount was re-installed as we got the engine in position for each corner.

The hi-lift beam came in handy to leverage the weight around when needed. Floor jacks came in very handy to deal with the twist from the works being passenger side heavy. Finally a ratchet strap was employed to align the engine mount hole for the final mount.

All in all, it went pretty good, it took us about 2.5 hours from start to finish. I did manage to scape the valve cover a bunch because it kept rubbing on the vacuum switch on the firewall. No big deal, unlike Meanie my FJ40 is just fine with rattle can paint. :D

Old40Dog
05-28-2010, 10:49 PM
Ricardo,

BTW, I have the shifter boot from Justin for you. I didn't make it to breakfast today, but will have it at the meeting Wednesday.

Air Randy
05-30-2010, 09:57 AM
: No big deal, unlike Meanie my FJ40 is just fine with rattle can paint. :D

I'm gonna tell Dee that you're making fun of her...

Hulk
05-30-2010, 11:57 PM
Way to go, Ricardo and Rick!

Rzeppa
05-31-2010, 07:31 PM
:The engine, tranny and t-case are all now in the truck:thumb:.

Awesome. Great feeling isn't it?

:This is done by moving the leveler to the rear, most of the way to the end. While I don't have a picture of this, Jeff Z's Engine Refresh and Timm B's 73 Build Up thread have great pictures that show just how far back the leveler needs to be.

Glad to have been of help!

:We also removed the engine mounts from the bell housing and front passenger side of the engine. Each mount was re-installed as we got the engine in position for each corner.

It wasn't until about the 3rd or 4th install that I ever heard of this trick. It helps keep the 'ears" hanging out the sides of the bellhousing from getting caught on the steering box as you maneuver it in there.

:All in all, it went pretty good, it took us about 2.5 hours from start to finish. I did manage to scape the valve cover a bunch because it kept rubbing on the vacuum switch on the firewall.

You just scratched the aluminum? Ahhh. That'll buff out :D

RicardoJM
06-01-2010, 07:17 PM
I'm glad I took a bunch of photos and posted them up early in the thread. While the number of photos is down significantly, progress still continues, albeit at a slower pace than what it took to pull everything out:D.

Since Friday evening, the header, intake and carb have been put back in place. The water pump, alternator and power steering are back in.

I am not able to use by 71 fuel pump fittings (threaded fuel filter) and stopped by Groove to order the correct filter. I'm putting a fram inline set up until the new filter arrives.

Regarding the radiator, I'm a bit :o to share what I learned/realized when installing it. As background, I've had my radiator out at least two times before this project and each time I would wrestle with the shroud, radiator and frame - as it was my habit to remove each component. Well, as I was getting ready to put the radiator in, I looked at the holes where the frame sits and wondered if I could just plop in the whole unit (frame, radiator and shroud) versus messing with each piece. Worked very well and was much less time that what it has been in the past.:thumb:

Air Randy
06-01-2010, 07:34 PM
So when should we expect to hear "The new engine started today and runs fine"?

RicardoJM
06-13-2010, 07:22 PM
After sorting out my no oil pressure issue (http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showthread.php?t=13266) TheBoomBoom and I moved on to firing it up. It was a no go on the first try:(. We checked the hose coming out of the fuel filter and it was bone dry.

We put a vacuum gauge on the intake to the fuel pump. It barely registered any vacuum with each rotation of the engine. I found a new Kiosan pump at the NAPA warehouse in Commerce City and off we went for lunch and pump. After getting back home TheBoomBoom removed the old pump and installed the new. Back to firing it up and no joy. I dribbled a little fuel down the carb and when Rick turned the truck over it fired right up, but quickly died when the fuel was gone. We did this a couple of more times and could not get the fuel system to where it was move fuel on its own.

The carb bowl was bone dry, so we decided to fill it up. From what I read, an F engine does not have to have the fuel system primed, but I figured it couldn't hurt. Worst case the truck would run until the fuel ran out. I was hoping that with the engine running, the higher RPM of idle would work the fuel pump enough to get the fuel moving.

So I removed the top of the carb and promptly broke the float in the process:o. After some surgery on my old carb for parts, the fuel bowl in the carb was filled to the line, and the top installed. Rick pulled the choke, two pumps and turned the key. The engine fired to life and was running:thumb:. It is very loud with the open header:eek:.

Rick then moved the FJ40 out under its own power to the street where we let it warm up a bit. Rick then took it around the circle about 3/4 of a mile drive. I could here the truck the whole way, especially when he gave it any fuel. When he got back we looked under the hood and found a fuel leak at the fuel filter. While you don't want any leaks, this was made me happy to see as it indicates the fuel system is working. Rick took care of the leak and then I went around the block. It is so nice to down shift into first gear.

We checked the timing, it is at 11 BDTC and looked for leaks - there were none. As it was up to operating temperature, we pulled it into garage and checked the valves. There were a couple of loose ones and a couple of tight ones - but most of them were just right.

There are still some things on the punch list to get done, but it is nice to be at this point. Thanks to all on the board and in the club that have been there to help me through this project. :risingsun

Uncle Ben
06-13-2010, 08:01 PM
After sorting out my no oil pressure issue (http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showthread.php?t=13266) TheBoomBoom and I moved on to firing it up. It was a no go on the first try:(. We checked the hose coming out of the fuel filter and it was bone dry.

We put a vacuum gauge on the intake to the fuel pump. It barely registered any vacuum with each rotation of the engine. I found a new Kiosan pump at the NAPA warehouse in Commerce City and off we went for lunch and pump. After getting back home TheBoomBoom removed the old pump and installed the new. Back to firing it up and no joy. I dribbled a little fuel down the carb and when Rick turned the truck over it fired right up, but quickly died when the fuel was gone. We did this a couple of more times and could not get the fuel system to where it was move fuel on its own.

The carb bowl was bone dry, so we decided to fill it up. From what I read, an F engine does not have to have the fuel system primed, but I figured it couldn't hurt. Worst case the truck would run until the fuel ran out. I was hoping that with the engine running, the higher RPM of idle would work the fuel pump enough to get the fuel moving.

So I removed the top of the carb and promptly broke the float in the process:o. After some surgery on my old carb for parts, the fuel bowl in the carb was filled to the line, and the top installed. Rick pulled the choke, two pumps and turned the key. The engine fired to life and was running:thumb:. It is very loud with the open header:eek:.

Rick then moved the FJ40 out under its own power to the street where we let it warm up a bit. Rick then took it around the circle about 3/4 of a mile drive. I could here the truck the whole way, especially when he gave it any fuel. When he got back we looked under the hood and found a fuel leak at the fuel filter. While you don't want any leaks, this was made me happy to see as it indicates the fuel system is working. Rick took care of the leak and then I went around the block. It is so nice to down shift into first gear.

We checked the timing, it is at 11 BDTC and looked for leaks - there were none. As it was up to operating temperature, we pulled it into garage and checked the valves. There were a couple of loose ones and a couple of tight ones - but most of them were just right.

There are still some things on the punch list to get done, but it is nice to be at this point. Thanks to all on the board and in the club that have been there to help me through this project. :risingsun

:thumb::thumb:

corsair23
06-13-2010, 11:25 PM
:woot: - Way to go guys!!

Rzeppa
06-13-2010, 11:53 PM
Hi Ricardo, glad you got the fuel issue resolved. I got your phone message and returned your call - you guys were probably on the way to NAPA by then. For future reference, those fuel pump fittings on the earlier F/2F series pumps can be changed out because they are just regular pipe fittings into the pump itself. In other words, you could have swapped off the intake from one pump and swapped on a fitting for a different one to suit whether you had an earlier (threaded hose fitting) or slightly later barbed fitting and visa versa.

In any event, it is great to learn that your 40 is running well under it's own power!

:thumb:

Air Randy
06-15-2010, 05:15 PM
OK,

You got the motor running but without a muffler. Did you get the muffler on it and how does it run now with the new engine? Does it seem to have a lot more power than the old one? This motor is supposed to be balanced and blue printed so I'm curious if you can tell the difference?

Hulk
06-15-2010, 10:49 PM
Awesome! Glad to hear it guys!!!

RicardoJM
06-15-2010, 10:52 PM
OK,

You got the motor running but without a muffler. Did you get the muffler on it and how does it run now with the new engine? Does it seem to have a lot more power than the old one? This motor is supposed to be balanced and blue printed so I'm curious if you can tell the difference?

Got the muffler done today:thumb:. I've only driven it around the neighborhood. I still need to work on the clutch adjustment as when I put the spring on it pulls the fork too far away from the clutch fingers. I've yet to put in the passenger seat and I think some of the valves may be just a tad loose as it rattles a bit. I slapped up the skid plate and determined there is the need for some grinding. Oh yeah, and I've also not tuned the carb or checked the engine vacuum. I have a very small oil leak, either the side cover or oil filter housing - it is difficult to tell for sure. Good news is that is the only leak there is. :blah::blah::blah:

I'm going to drive it to work tomorrow, (if I can figure out where I put my duct tape cup holder) because WOW - it is a big improvement over the truck I pulled into the garage at the beginning of May:D.

So much is different and it is all so new that I don't know quite yet what to attribute to what. I love shifting gears and not having any grinding. The truck is overall smoother, hard to describe but I can feel it in the seat of my pants. The torque is definitely better. It will get some highway time tomorrow and I'll report what I find.

Randy and Steve; yes the tires chirp and I don't think it is the locker:D. - Thanks guys!!!

FJBRADY
06-16-2010, 08:34 AM
That's awesome....great job! Now wheel it already :hill:

Jacket
06-16-2010, 01:56 PM
Despite your minor set back today, this is a very cool accomplishment. Congrats Ricardo.

RicardoJM
06-17-2010, 08:19 AM
:thumb::thumb:

:woot: - Way to go guys!!

In any event, it is great to learn that your 40 is running well under it's own power!

:thumb:

Awesome! Glad to hear it guys!!!

That's awesome....great job! Now wheel it already :hill:

Despite your minor set back today, this is a very cool accomplishment. Congrats Ricardo.

I truly appreciate all the experience and wisdom that everyone has contributed to my education. One of the objectives that was very important to me with this project project was to "do it with my own hands" - so that I would learn and develop my experience. For the most part, I have succeeded - but I could not have done this without the help of others.

I started to go through the list of people who have helped me with parts, tools and been very patient with answers to questions I have had along the way - it is a big list. Guys, thank you for your help:thumb: - I'll do what I can to pay it forward:D. Rick - thanks for giving me a hand and being there when the job needed two hands.

RicardoJM
06-22-2010, 09:04 AM
I had really wanted to get it out to Argentine Pass Saturday afternoon and then on the Father's Day Run on Sunday, but not having run it - my confidence in the rig was not where it needed to be. That said, after putting in the small cap electronic distributor last Wednesday and driving it every day, my confidence in the rig is back. While we didn't make to this past weekends events, Sunday TheBoomBoom and I took it out for a long drive out to Roxborough and up to Evergreen.

I do have a couple of oil leaks:(. I'm not too excited about addressing these leaks myself and may take it to a professional. With other commitments and my slow wrenching speed, the buttoning up phase has dragged on and fun has momentarily disappeared.


The front timing cover is leaking from the bottom. I am certain that I over torqued the two bottom bolts, the ones that get RTV. Yes, I used a torque wrench but must have had the wrong spec as it was clear I squished the gasket too flat. I thought it would be ok, but should have known better:o.

The source of the second leak is not as clear - it is on the passenger side of the block. This leak could be with the oil filter housing, distributor o-ring or the lower edge of the side cover panel.


My punch list of other items to address is getting smaller:D. The clutch needs adjustment. The skid plate needs some trimming. The high/low shift rod needs to be extended; for this last item I will need some help from one of the welders in the club.

Air Randy
06-22-2010, 02:42 PM
H O W D O E S I T R U N !

You went to all of this trouble to put in a new engine, trials and tribulations, etc but does it seem like a significant improvement in power over the previous motor or just a little better?

RicardoJM
06-22-2010, 03:01 PM
H O W D O E S I T R U N !

You went to all of this trouble to put in a new engine, trials and tribulations, etc but does it seem like a significant improvement in power over the previous motor or just a little better?

It runs very nice and the difference is significant - but not across the board.

There is not a big difference in acceleration, it still is slower off the stop light than everything else. The truck runs significantly smoother, there is not hardly any vibration from the engine, my old engine vibrated much more. The new setup has much more low end power than the old engine. On Sunday, I revved it up and dumped the clutch - TheBoomBoom will confirm it can do a burn out. It is not a long burn out, but it is definitely more than a tire chirp. At the top end of the RPM there is more power, but not allot more power. That is to say, going uphill I can accelerate where I used to bleed off speed. Compared to the old setup, it is a significant difference, but still not the same peppiness that I get from the V8.

What I need to do is get it over to your place and let you have a run with it. I'm not sure you remember how the old setup drove - but this way you can get a first hand, in person perspective.

Air Randy
06-22-2010, 04:31 PM
Remember that motor was blue printed & balanced so that is one reason why it is much smoother.

I wasn't expecting it to run like a V8 but if you're able to accelerate up hill and drive down the highway at 75 mph then thats a big improvement over what it was before. A stock FJ40 doing a burn out :cool: that is something I'll have to see :D

Rzeppa
06-22-2010, 06:16 PM
A stock FJ40 doing a burn out :cool: that is something I'll have to see :D

Yes, with smaller tyres it can be done with a good running engine. I lost my ability to do so when I went to 33s.

RicardoJM
07-05-2010, 09:24 AM
I should just stop adding to this thread as the core of the swap is done and everything else could be considered "projects". Since last updating this thread, I've put a few hundred miles on the truck.

The clutch has been adjusted. The timing cover leak fixed. Found and fixed an exhaust leak at the header to block. The remflex gasket worked great. Set my float level to spec; when I was getting my truck to start I just slapped a float in there without setting it to spec.

Found an issue with my carb spacer with the embedded gasket being scraped partially away between the two barrels. I grabbed a spare spacer that had all the gasket scraped off, smoothed it out as best I could and made a double gasket for it.

Found that my coolant is no longer green (http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showthread.php?t=13418), this is something that I will keep a close eye on.

Still need to take care of the side cover leak and extend my high-low shift arm - on the latter project I have picked up the metal.

subzali
01-15-2012, 01:23 PM
I'll be watching this thread to find out what you learn. Someday I'd like to do the 4 speed swap as well. :beer:

I just read something interesting on MUD that is very interesting for your '73 Martin:
I could see it was asoft top originally. The threaded holes for the eye bolts safety straps. I also think your right about the frame. The tube that is behind the transfer case has the bend for the longer four speed. My Feb 73 has it and I think all 73s did even thought we didn't get a four speed here in the US until early in the 74 model year.

From here:
http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/545286-great-gazoo-1972-a-3.html#post7269610

Anybody else ever heard of this? It makes it sound like a 4 speed swap into a '73 is much easier than on any of the earlier Cruisers...

Ricardo, I just went back through this thread - did you end up with 3.73s? If so I had forgotten that.

RicardoJM
01-15-2012, 02:22 PM
I did not make the move to 3.7. In retrospect that is a good thing. I noticed a big difference when I went to 33" tires and being at 3.7 would have been worse. I'm now thinking about going up in to 4.something for gears.

baileyfj40
01-16-2012, 12:46 PM
I have a usa 4 speed that came out of my fj40 that could be offered for someones conversion, any takers? Does need to be rebuilt.