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Corbet
07-05-2010, 09:29 PM
I have two different sets of OEM rear lower control arms. The set that came on my '97 are much smaller in diameter than a 2nd set I picked up used from an earlier model year.

Which set are stronger? Common sense leads me to the larger diameter but maybe Mr. T used some magic steel in the smaller diameter later model years making them superior?

What says you?

I plan to add some angle iron but want to start with the stronger set. http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/106758-more-control-arm-angle-iron.html

Nay
07-06-2010, 12:49 AM
The FJ80 were bigger diameter so the story always goes, they probably all bend like tin. If you are going to angle iron a set, I'd use whichever have the better bushings.

Beater
07-06-2010, 07:10 AM
what nay said. However, you will damage the rubber if you do the angle correctly (from the heat). DO NOT seal the ends of the angle, no matter how tempting. You will need a way for air/water/crud to come out of the angle.

You will luv the angle iron on the rear control arms btw, makes them slide like buttah

Corbet
07-06-2010, 09:42 AM
I was thinking I'd replace the bushings with a new set from Slee.

What are the thoughts of welding the untire length, spotting every few inches, or just the ends?

I also figured I have them powder coated when done for rust protection.

Beater
07-06-2010, 12:03 PM
I would run the bead all the way down. leave the ends open. powder coat would be good, but not nesessary

Make sure you angle prep the edges of the angle, so you get close to a 75 degree angle on the mounting point of the angle to the control arm.

Corbet
07-06-2010, 12:10 PM
If I welded all the way down what reason would there be to leave the ends open? Seems to me that closing the ends would make more sense on rust prevention.

Beater
07-06-2010, 02:20 PM
no reason.. personal preference. I left all the rover ones I built open, and the toy ones too. Maybe just habit, and the fact that I always used a small angle section than the width of the control arm, so it was a a larger gap than I wanted to fill with weld, and I am somewhat lazy.

Nay
07-07-2010, 07:38 PM
I was thinking I'd replace the bushings with a new set from Slee.

What are the thoughts of welding the untire length, spotting every few inches, or just the ends?

I also figured I have them powder coated when done for rust protection.

The bushings are the better part of half the cost of new arms and was one of the reasons I just went with a heavy duty aftermarket set. Just didn't figure in the end I'd save much money.

MAF was having a sale on the 4+ lowers, which are made out of 3/8" wall DOM (huge) for $275/set a few months ago. Might be worth checking back since you get the slick uniball setup on one end.

I wouldn't powder coat rear LCA's - they drag too much and you can't just repaint the scrapes once you have powder coated.

Add up your total cost and see what you save between the cost of new bushings plus pressing them in and the angle iron work. If you can do most yourself you'll save some coin. If you have to outsource, it won't be worth it in any material way...

Beater
07-08-2010, 07:01 AM
just fyi - the stock rubbers flex the most.


just sayin.