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View Full Version : What is the longest time spend on one bolt


RockRunner
07-21-2010, 08:13 AM
I removed the transmission and everything behind it. When I took it apart I pulled the Tcases first so it was easy to get to the top bolts. When I re-installed it I put it in all in one piece. Not so easy to get to one of the top bolts.

I spend nearly an hour on one bolt:eek: I could only turn it 1/8th of a turn and had to turn the wrench around and do it again. In hindsight I should have removed the Tcases and done it over the top but:confused::o

I got it in so for me an hour is the longest time.:mad:

nakman
07-21-2010, 09:09 AM
I've seen a lower rear shock bolt on an 80 consume 3 hours.. it broke, was drilled, then the ez-out broke, then that got drilled, eventually drilling bigger and bigger until the rest could get tapped out.

coax
07-21-2010, 09:48 AM
Well lets see. When I had the 55, I was changing out the rear bearings and seals, and after pulling off the diff cover, and pulling out one of the bolts (not sure what it was called) realized it was already sheared in half.

Needed to get an easy out in there, but also needed a really long drill bit as a regular drill wouldn't fit due to the axle housing.

Now mind you this is when I was really poor and had my old 91' explorer. At the time it was having some battery/alternator issues. Drove into Ace, got the bit and easyout, and started to drive home. About 1/2 mile from my house the explorer died, no charge to battery. Pulled it over on the side of the road.

Luckily had a buddy helping me with the cruiser, so we walked back to the house, got his tacoma, and went and towed the explorer home.

After that, was able to get a mostly centered hole into the sheared bolt, and turn the easy out about a quarter turn each time.

Probably 3 hours into the project for that one little bolt :-D

Hulk
07-21-2010, 10:22 AM
Easily a full day. Several times.

timmbuck2
07-21-2010, 10:40 AM
rusted, rounded off leaf spring bolt on a 55...a couple of weeks total, an hour or so every few days.

Air Randy
07-21-2010, 11:38 AM
I removed the transmission and everything behind it. When I took it apart I pulled the Tcases first so it was easy to get to the top bolts. When I re-installed it I put it in all in one piece. Not so easy to get to one of the top bolts.

I spend nearly an hour on one bolt:eek: I could only turn it 1/8th of a turn and had to turn the wrench around and do it again. In hindsight I should have removed the Tcases and done it over the top but:confused::o

I got it in so for me an hour is the longest time.:mad:

If you recall when we did mine, we let the back of the cases sag down a little until the back of the engine started to touch the firewall, then we used a 3' long 3/8" drive extension and socket to reach those top bolts.

DaveInDenver
07-21-2010, 12:01 PM
If you recall when we did mine, we let the back of the cases sag down a little until the back of the engine started to touch the firewall, then we used a 3' long 3/8" drive extension and socket to reach those top bolts.
That's the key trick, since you won't yet have the cross member mount you can tip the motor to the point before you tear the rubber on the mounts. Watch the firewall and radiator! What is difficult I've found is getting the bolts into the transfer case if you do an R&R of it in place without dropping the drivetrain. Impossible to get a solid torque check with the combination of swivels and u-joints and extensions so I just try to get them uniform to whatever value I can.

BTW, the longest it took me for a single bolt was 3 days. This was one of the lower control arm bolts. It had rusted solid inside the bushing sleeve and no amount of cheater bar + heat + Kryoil was going to free it. Went through 2 Sawzall blades and countless Bandaids cutting that SOB since it took 2 cuts in close quarters to free. This is a grade 10.9 (or is 12.9?), 14mm monster that was laughing at the tool steel in the blades. Naturally I started it on a Saturday afternoon and didn't hit the problem until evening after Burt was closed. So I had to wait until Monday to get the replacement, thus the 3 days...

RockRunner
07-21-2010, 01:29 PM
If you recall when we did mine, we let the back of the cases sag down a little until the back of the engine started to touch the firewall, then we used a 3' long 3/8" drive extension and socket to reach those top bolts.

Now if I recalled that I would not have taken an hour to do this one bolt now would I :rolleyes:

You know I was thinking that was the answer but just did not remember. Nearly called you but then forgot that too............:o

Dr. Schlegs
07-21-2010, 01:54 PM
When Ige and I put the OME in the 80, I was struggling with the drivers front top shock bolt. It is right under the Master cylinder. We tried saws, wrenches, cutting wheel threaded through the brake lines to get close enough. No torches as afraid we might damage the brake system. Finally it snapped free and it was time for a :beer:.

The other timesuck is when you have a bolt and you can't see where it goes. Have to use the Jedi Force to get those done.

RicardoJM
07-21-2010, 01:54 PM
Now if I recalled that I would not have taken an hour to do this one bolt now would I :rolleyes:

You know I was thinking that was the answer but just did not remember. Nearly called you but then forgot that too............:o

Because of the rear mount - would have angling the stuff down have even been an option w/o removing the back t-case?

nakman
07-21-2010, 01:59 PM
When Ige and I put the OME in the 80, I was struggling with the drivers front top shock bolt. It is right under the Master cylinder. We tried saws, wrenches, cutting wheel threaded through the brake lines to get close enough. No torches as afraid we might damage the brake system. Finally it snapped free and it was time for a :beer:.
.

Next time put the open end wrench on the nut in the engine bay, then just turn the shock below with a pipe wrench.

Dr. Schlegs
07-21-2010, 06:49 PM
Next time put the open end wrench on the nut in the engine bay, then just turn the shock below with a pipe wrench.

Great now you tell me.:rolleyes:

RockRunner
07-21-2010, 07:47 PM
Because of the rear mount - would have angling the stuff down have even been an option w/o removing the back t-case?

Maybe, not sure how much I would have needed. It is always possible that it would have been enough but I would not have started this fun tread:D

RockRunner
07-21-2010, 07:51 PM
Great now you tell me.:rolleyes:

Isn't that always the case, after you spend hours working on something some smart aleck comes by and does it in 2 minutes:o

If I only knew what I know now then I would be richer, healthier and living on 200 acres.:blah::blah::blah:

Rzeppa
07-22-2010, 03:05 PM
Well lets see. When I had the 55, I was changing out the rear bearings and seals, and after pulling off the diff cover, and pulling out one of the bolts (not sure what it was called) realized it was already sheared in half. <snip>

I have pulled several diffs apart and found that particular fastener (I think factory jargon is "retaining pin") sheared there. It must be a weak point. All the ones I dealt with still had some thread left, and I was able to very carefully unscrew them without the EZout. Last time I ordered, I picked up several spares to keep on hand.

Beater
07-22-2010, 03:15 PM
turbo manifold connection on a porsche 931gt - 8hrs. on one bolt.

azcromntic
10-08-2010, 11:27 PM
Brake caliper housing bolt on a 2000 Lesabre. First tried doubling up open end wrenches, went to long breaker bar, went to electric impact wrench, then to PB and electric impact wrench, then to torch with me jumping on the breaker bar. Then went through cycles of PB, torch and breaker bar. Finally it came out some 2.5 days later.

I gave up on the impact wrench because there really wasn't enough space; would have backed out and pinched the wrench between the nut and frame so I went back to the breaker bar.

MDH33
10-09-2010, 06:35 AM
Longest I can remember was spending most of an afternoon trying to get the big nut off the flex tube of an FJ60 EGRvalve. It requires a giant size open end wrench and there's no easy way to get at it with enough leverage to crack it free. I ended up having to remove all the emissions crap and spaghetti from the driver side engine bay to finally have enough room to get it off. :banghead: