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View Full Version : What OEM Carb in a '72 1F FJ40


Red72FJ40
07-21-2010, 01:43 PM
Does anyone know what OEM carb is in a 72 FJ40 with a 1F and where I can get a rebuild kit, or where locally I could get it re-built?

Thanks.
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RicardoJM
07-21-2010, 02:02 PM
There are several years that could work in an F engine. I've run a November 69 and Sep 72 Aisin carb on my F engine. I believe that even the 2F carbs could be made to work, but there are more systems on these carbs and I don't know the details on how to "bring them down" to F engine use.

Rebuild kits are available at NAPA, but there are differences in kits. I would recommend getting a Keyster kit that is specific to the carb. Cruiseroutfitters sells them.

There are a few in the club that have rebuilt carbs and I'd be willing to give you a hand. I rebuilt my first carb (http://risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showthread.php?t=11570&highlight=Aisan+rebuild) last fall and rebuilt a 22R carb earlier this year.

Do you already have a carb?

RicardoJM
07-21-2010, 02:16 PM
Does anyone know what OEM carb is in a 72 FJ40 with a 1F

The Aisin carbs have a three/four digit code stamped on the air horn that indicates when the carburetor was built; digit 1 is the year, digit 2 is the month and digits 3/4 are the day of the month.

So, I am pretty certain that the OEM carb that was in a 1972 would have a 1 (1971) or 2 (1972) first digit on the code. :D

However, keep in mind that with trucks this old, it is very rare that they have survived in tact and with the same engine, carb, steering wheel, seats, etc.. that they left the factor with.

Red72FJ40
08-03-2010, 08:57 AM
Hi Ricardo, been tied up so I have not had a chance to look at it, but I did last night.

There is a logo on it that I thought said Atson (sp) but could have been Aisin? Not sure as it is hard to read. Also, on the top of the carb there is an ISO (or 180) cast into the aluminum and below that is stamped 2D2.

Does any of this make sense or should I be looking in a differnet area. FJ Serial number indicates the truck was made in 4/72.

Thanks for any insight.
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RicardoJM
08-03-2010, 09:13 AM
Hi Ricardo, been tied up so I have not had a chance to look at it, but I did last night.

There is a logo on it that I thought said Atson (sp) but could have been Aisin? Not sure as it is hard to read. Also, on the top of the carb there is an ISO (or 180) cast into the aluminum and below that is stamped 2D2.

Does any of this make sense or should I be looking in a differnet area. FJ Serial number indicates the truck was made in 4/72.

Thanks for any insight.

From the description, it sounds like this is the original carb. The 2D2 would indicate the carb was build on April 2, 1972 consistent with the truck's serial number.

Red72FJ40
08-03-2010, 02:55 PM
Thanks, Ricardo.

Would I just go down to NAPA then and ask for an OEM carb rebuild kit for that year FJ40? Would anyone recommend a different aftermarket carb or should I stick with the OEM?

Thanks!
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RicardoJM
08-03-2010, 04:19 PM
Would I just go down to NAPA then and ask for an OEM carb rebuild kit for that year FJ40?

You could go to NAPA, but I would recommend calling Kurt at Cruiseroutfitters to get a Keyser kit. The Keyster kits are more comprehensive in their content that what is available from NAPA.


Would anyone recommend a different aftermarket carb or should I stick with the OEM?
My recommendation would be to stick with the OEM carb. If you'd like a hand with rebuilding it, I'll be willing to work with you.

If you want more of a turnkey approach, you could send your carb out to Mark A. or Jim C. for a full rebuild. Both of these guys really know the stock carbs and can get them in tip/top shape. Alternatively, you can purchase one of the TrollHole carbs.

Switching to an after market (Weber) will be more $$$ than sending it out for a rebuild or the TrollHole carb.

I'm sure others will chime in with their perspective.

Red72FJ40
08-04-2010, 09:35 AM
Thanks so much, Ricardo, for your offer and information. I really know zero about carbs so I would not be of much help re-building it so maybe the turnkey approach would be better.

Can I ask your opinion on one more thing? The current carb seems to work fine once the truck is warmed up. No issue at all with it. It won't start though (w/o starter fluid) and it stutters on acceleration when it is cold. I'm thinking it is carb related but is there anything else I should be looking at?

Thanks again for your time and help.

Pete
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wesintl
08-04-2010, 09:36 AM
vacuum leak?

RicardoJM
08-04-2010, 09:50 AM
Thanks so much, Ricardo, for your offer and information. I really know zero about carbs so I would not be of much help re-building it so maybe the turnkey approach would be better.

Can I ask your opinion on one more thing? The current carb seems to work fine once the truck is warmed up. No issue at all with it. It won't start though (w/o starter fluid) and it stutters on acceleration when it is cold. I'm thinking it is carb related but is there anything else I should be looking at?

Thanks again for your time and help.

Pete

vacuum leak?
It might be the choke mechanism. You should have a choke knob on the dash. When you pull it out, it closes a plate over the primary barrel. As the truck warms up, you push the knob back in. The symptoms are consistent with what would be expected if the choke is not used or not working.

To inspect the choke, remove the air cleaner from the top of the carb. You will see there are two barrels in the center of the carb and one of them has a plate. Get inside the truck and pull the choke knob. Get outside the truck and look at the top of the carb again - you should see the plate has moved to cover the barrel. Get inside the truck again and push the choke knob in - this time when you look at the carb you should see the plate has moved and the barrel is open.

When a truck sits a long time (don't know if this is your situation) the cable will stick and not close the plate. It is also possible that the choke cable is missing or not connected to the carb linkage.

Wes is also correct about a vacuum leak being a potential problem, but I would first look at the choke. Post up with what you find.

Red72FJ40
08-04-2010, 10:05 AM
Hi Ricardo.

Choke knob and plate work fine. First thing I looked at. I will look for a vacumn leak tonight and reply.
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RicardoJM
08-04-2010, 10:11 AM
The photo below is looking down on the carb and shows the two barrels. The choke plate is in the barrel on the right and open. When you pull on the choke knob, the choke plate will rotate and cover the barrel.:thumb:

http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/ricardojm/Carb/sevenscrews1.jpg

With the choke plate covering the barrel, the ratio of air to fuel is altered so that there is more fuel and less air. This altered mixture is needed for starting the engine and warming it up. By using starting fluid, you are doing the same thing, i.e. the ratio of air to fuel is being changed so there is more fuel and less air.

Oops, our posts crossed paths.

RicardoJM
08-04-2010, 10:18 AM
Glad to hear the choke system is working. Also check the Accelerator Pump. With the air cleaner off, you should be able to move the accelerator pump lever up and down. As you do this, there should be a jet of fuel being sprayed down the barrel with the choke - "primary barrel".

The spray will should come out of the brass nozel that is visible (at the 1:00 position) in this photo of the venturi being removed from the primary barrel.
http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/ricardojm/Carb/venturi1.jpg

Red72FJ40
08-04-2010, 10:22 AM
Thanks for the pics, Ricardo. That helps a lot. I'll check it tonight and let you know what I find.
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Air Randy
08-04-2010, 10:27 AM
My 02.:

1-You can rebuild the OEM carb yourself and it should be OK if done correctly but you will not get any performance enhancements.

2-You can go with a Trollhole carb. I've read a little about these and know they are made in China but not much else. If you had no carb at all this may be the way to go. My only concern (and maybe it isn't valid) would be getting parts for this thing in the future if Trollhole gets out of the business.

3-Since you appear to have the correct OEM carb for your engine, I would send it to Mark A or Jim C for a performance rebuild. I sent mine to Jim C and he asks what elevation you live at, what elevation range it will be used the most in, etc. He not only rebuilds the carb but he also modifies it for performance enhancements and then he ensures it is jetted correctly for the elevation where you're going to use it. He also bolts it to a 2F engine he has on a stand and then test runs it and adjusts it.

What was amazing, I bolted that carb on out of the box from Jim C and once the float bowl filled the motor started and idled & ran perfectly! I have never had to touch an adjustment screw on it. I can also tell you that it has never hiccupped even once. Last weekend on the 40 run there were a number of rigs that had vapor locking/loading up issues and mine didn't.

As far as the performance enhancements you definitely feel the secondaries opening up sooner and solidly versus the stock setup. The only downside is Mark and Jim charge about $350 for the service and it usually takes about 6 weeks to get your carb back from them.

Red72FJ40
08-04-2010, 12:43 PM
Thanks for the detail, Randy. I'm going to try out Ricardos suggestion and do a bit more trouble shooting and then decide. Sound like a good way to go on the re-build/upgrade by those guys.
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Red72FJ40
08-04-2010, 12:46 PM
Glad to hear the choke system is working. Also check the Accelerator Pump. With the air cleaner off, you should be able to move the accelerator pump lever up and down. As you do this, there should be a jet of fuel being sprayed down the barrel with the choke - "primary barrel".

The spray will should come out of the brass nozel that is visible (at the 1:00 position) in this photo of the venturi being removed from the primary barrel.
http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/ricardojm/Carb/venturi1.jpg

Ricardo, sorry, but where would the accelerator pump "lever" be?
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RicardoJM
08-04-2010, 01:28 PM
Ricardo, sorry, but where would the accelerator pump "lever" be?

In this picture the wrench is on the bolt that accelerator pump lever pivots on.

http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/ricardojm/Carb/pumplever1.jpg

When you pump the gas pedal (or manually move the lever up and down), this lever moves the accelerator pump (arm in the rubber accordion boot) up and down. The accelerator pump is what makes the squirt happen. :thumb:

Red72FJ40
08-04-2010, 02:47 PM
Looks familiar, thanks. I'll check it out.
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Red72FJ40
08-05-2010, 09:03 AM
HI Ricardo,

I definitely think it is the accelerator pump. When I push down on the accelerator, I don't see the pump engaging or the gas squirting. I really have to push down hard on the lever itself to get the pump to work, and once it does I see the gas squirt and it starts right up. I think the linkage is OK, just think the pump is sticky. Do I need to replace the pump part or can I take it apart and clean it?

Thanks.
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RicardoJM
08-05-2010, 09:41 AM
I definitely think it is the accelerator pump. When I push down on the accelerator, I don't see the pump engaging or the gas squirting. I really have to push down hard on the lever itself to get the pump to work, and once it does I see the gas squirt and it starts right up. I think the linkage is OK, just think the pump is sticky. Do I need to replace the pump part or can I take it apart and clean it?

A carb rebuild is basically taking it apart and cleaning it, then as you put it back together replacing parts that are worn or damaged. The rebuild kit will include a new pump.

While you might be successful in getting the pump to move smoothly and be good running - the question becomes how long until the carb has its next/another problem. Can you post up some photos of the carb?

Red72FJ40
08-05-2010, 10:06 AM
Thanks!

Yes, I will take some pictures and post them today.
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