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John
08-18-2010, 11:46 AM
So the stock FJ60 is getting some cheap upgrades. I ordered an aussie rear and picked up a new diff gasket. Need some 90 wt(no backwoods goop) and what other supplies? Thanks.

MDH33
08-18-2010, 11:48 AM
So the stock FJ60 is getting some cheap upgrades. I ordered an aussie rear and picked up a new diff gasket. Need some 90 wt(no backwoods goop) and what other supplies? Thanks.

Lots of shop towels and hand cleaner. :hill:

Sounds like you'll be ready to roll. :thumb:

RicardoJM
08-18-2010, 12:14 PM
Locker install in the rear is pretty straight forward. If you are putting it up front, then you will need more stuff. In addition to the 90wt; pick up a new diff gasket and some rtv.

As you install the locker you will need a micrometer to measure the gap to confirm it is in spec. If the gap is not in spec., you will need to change the thrust washers. With the good condition your rig was in when you got it (and it is still in good condition), I would expect that your measurements will be just fine. I installed my locker and gave Justin a hand with his and would be happy to lend a hand with yours.

rover67
08-18-2010, 12:27 PM
Like Ricardo said, you'll need to measure the clearance the locker has between the axles and the center block. I played with running that tolerance looser than specified (because I didn't want to buy new thicker washers) and found that while the locker worked fine it was somewhat erratic in how it locked. You won't know what the gap is till you get it mocked up. Anyways, Running it near the lower end of the specified clearance or gap produced a much more tame action from the locker.

John
08-18-2010, 09:04 PM
I have a 1" mic but it looks like a feeler gage or dial caliper is what you use. I have rtv and MP grease,jack stands,floor jack,standard tools but any special ones? Probably will not get the locker til next week. I assume the thrust washers are sold in diff thicknesses although I bet mine will not be worn enough to need changed,only 117k mi. Ricardo,thanks for the offer and I will see if I can do an install in my garage quickly enough to not leave something else outside for days!:o http://forum.ih8mud.com/80seriestech/118690-aussie-locker-install.html

Dr. Schlegs
08-18-2010, 09:20 PM
You might need a new pinion flange and seal, as I did when Rudy did mine. I hope you got a chance to pick up the hand out at the Rally on how to do this install. Further Rudy has a PowerPoint that outlines the process as well. More information is better than less. You may want to replace the U-joint while you have it disconnected, as well as rebuild the rear axle.

RicardoJM
08-19-2010, 06:52 AM
I have a 1" mic but it looks like a feeler gage or dial caliper is what you use. I have rtv and MP grease,jack stands,floor jack,standard tools but any special ones?

I'm not sure I understand that first sentence. I used a HF electronic caliper, nothing fancy required. Really, there are no other special tools needed.

rover67
08-19-2010, 08:23 AM
a 1" mic will work for checking shim thickness and some feeler gages are all you need to check the gap.

Ricardo, first one is a micrometer and the next is a dial caliper.

Like Ricardo says, you really don't need any special tools... it's pull the rear cover off, slide the cross shaft and block out of the diff, pull out all of the spider gears and c clips... slide axles out a bit (which you can do without even taking drums off if the drums are loose), and install the new locker with the shims you have. Measure gap with feeler gages and if it is too big or small, take it apart measure the shims with the mic so you know where you're at and reshim as needed.

RicardoJM
08-19-2010, 09:05 AM
Dooh, I didn't realized there was a difference, I've been calling both micrometers. That explains a few of the puzzled looks I've gotten from Randy over the last couple of years. :D

Air Randy
08-19-2010, 10:57 AM
You might need a new pinion flange and seal, as I did when Rudy did mine. I hope you got a chance to pick up the hand out at the Rally on how to do this install. Further Rudy has a PowerPoint that outlines the process as well. More information is better than less. You may want to replace the U-joint while you have it disconnected, as well as rebuild the rear axle.

He's installing a lunchbox locker so he doesn't have to disassemble the ring and pinion like Rudy did when he installed your ARB.

TIMZTOY
08-19-2010, 11:41 AM
Oh just lincon lock it :thumb: and forget about all this goofy measuring crap. :lmao:

wesintl
08-19-2010, 11:43 AM
Just slap that lockright in. I'd say 99% are just put in. Most should be fine but if you want to do it right you measure and replace the thrust washer if needed.

leiniesred
08-19-2010, 12:49 PM
doc Shleg's pinion flange MOVES on the pinion splines. Hopefully it is the flange and not the pinion shaft.

Dr. Schlegs
08-19-2010, 12:59 PM
doc Shleg's pinion flange MOVES on the pinion splines. Hopefully it is the flange and not the pinion shaft.

Yes, Hopefully.

Air Randy
08-19-2010, 02:34 PM
Dooh, I didn't realized there was a difference, I've been calling both micrometers. That explains a few of the puzzled looks I've gotten from Randy over the last couple of years. :D

If it's any consolation both of those tools can be used for the same purpose in this case since the dial caliper has both an ID and OD capabilility. The micrometer would be more precise for measuring the shim thickness but after all this is an old land cruiser where plus or minus the thickness of a credit card is probably close enough :hill:

John
08-27-2010, 03:34 PM
OK guys,I took the easy way out . My west facing garage has been too hot for this oil orgy. I took it up to CTS in Conifer with all the "stuff" I bought for the install and let Kevin and Joe do it for a preagreed 4 hours labor. Done, and you can certainly feel it driving around but the clicking in parking lots is very soft. We will see how it performs.

rover67
08-27-2010, 03:53 PM
don't freak out when you are making a turn and the thing bangs so loud yo uthink you broke an axle! Glad you got it in and going!

Hulk
08-27-2010, 04:06 PM
OK guys,I took the easy way out . My west facing garage has been too hot for this oil orgy. I took it up to CTS in Conifer with all the "stuff" I bought for the install and let Kevin and Joe do it for a preagreed 4 hours labor. Done, and you can certainly feel it driving around but the clicking in parking lots is very soft. We will see how it performs.

Can't go wrong with a CTS install. Nice upgrade!

corsair23
08-27-2010, 04:28 PM
Done, and you can certainly feel it driving around but the clicking in parking lots is very soft. We will see how it performs.

:cool:

I wonder if you might notice an increase in your mpg as you learn to "light foot" the 60 around town :)

John
08-27-2010, 04:58 PM
Jeff- I just filled it to check that very item. The 31x10.5 I put on last week,replacing the smaller 235's, noticeably slowed down acceleration and cornering speeds, and now I will be "clutch in" coasting on more turns. This 60 gets only 12 mpg in mixed 4wd/city/hwy anyway (4 spd) so I will keep track. No autocrossing in these things!

Air Randy
08-27-2010, 05:35 PM
don't freak out when you are making a turn and the thing bangs so loud yo uthink you broke an axle! Glad you got it in and going!

I remember the first time that happened to me with the 40, I actually pulled over and got out to look under it to see if the drive shaft was in pieces :hill:

Be careful too the first time you drive it in snow on the street. It's going to make a world of difference off-road but driving on the pavement will be different, you just need to get used to it.

John
08-29-2010, 09:30 PM
Pam,the 3 dogs and I took a run up to Rollinsville and up and over Kingston Peak and down thru Alice to the St. Mary's area. The 31's and the locker make this 60 an entirely new "Toy". What a difference!