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Inukshuk
10-05-2010, 06:52 PM
As our 80's age (mine is 17), we need to be checking on things beyond routine maintenance.

This weekend after completing the Crystal Canyon/Devil's Punchbowl/Schofield Pass/Kebler Pass loop (great trail, not hard at all - but don't be afraid of heights or backing up), an application of brakes in while reversing led to my discovery of a missing upper drivers side caliper mounting bolt. I was VERY pleased to discover that the front tow loop mounting bolt is the same diameter and thread pitch, and while too long, got us home. Its replacement was $2.00 at Stevenson (thanks Derek).

But I also discovered that the front tow loop mounting bolt was so severely rusted as to have its unthreaded portion reduced in diameter by about 25%. So, added to my list is to R&R all front bumper mounting points and to check other places where things attached to frame can rust.

We also all know about the PHH, and I plan to do all the hoses soon. But really, that is routine maintenance.

What else that is beyond typical?

AShoe
10-05-2010, 11:28 PM
I recently changed the engine mounts, spark plug wires, and every flexible hose in the engine compartment. Fuel, coolant, trans, power steering, vac, breather lines... everything. Several of them were in bad shape, cracks, worn spots ect. For the first time since I have owned it no more mystery leaks. I guess it's kind of needed on a 18 year old truck. The feel of the truck really improved with the engine mounts. The idle feels smooth and the vibration totally went away when stopped.

Hulk
10-05-2010, 11:37 PM
If you haven't ever flushed the radiator, you should clean it out. I actually replaced mine with the 93/94 model when I did the SC install.

Also, you really should see how your fan clutch is working. If it's not working properly, you may not be getting full cooling because of reduced air flow.

Beater
10-06-2010, 06:30 AM
bushings. all of them. not just the radius arm ones. anywhere there is a rubber mount, including body mounts. check em all.

Uncle Ben
10-06-2010, 07:32 AM
Front and rear brake caliper bolts! Also look for frame cracks near the steering box and front frame side panhard mount.

Inukshuk
10-06-2010, 08:23 AM
I recently changed the engine mounts, spark plug wires, and every flexible hose in the engine compartment. Fuel, coolant, trans, power steering, vac, breather lines... everything. Several of them were in bad shape, cracks, worn spots ect. For the first time since I have owned it no more mystery leaks. I guess it's kind of needed on a 18 year old truck. The feel of the truck really improved with the engine mounts. The idle feels smooth and the vibration totally went away when stopped.

bushings. all of them. not just the radius arm ones. anywhere there is a rubber mount, including body mounts. check em all.

How did you assemble your parts list? How difficult was it to swap in new engine and body mounts?

Front and rear brake caliper bolts! Also look for frame cracks near the steering box and front frame side panhard mount.

;) Aside from when they fall out... why the caliper bots? Is it because they get taken in and out more frequently than other bits?

Uncle Ben
10-06-2010, 09:21 AM
How did you assemble your parts list? How difficult was it to swap in new engine and body mounts?



;) Aside from when they fall out... why the caliper bots? Is it because they get taken in and out more frequently than other bits?

I had one come out on the Spooky night pre-run two years ago. That was a bottom one which caused the caliper to rotate out and lock the wheel solid! Luckily we were on the trail when it happened....shudder to think what would have happened on the highway! I have seen several now surprisingly loose on other peoples trucks and with your story I would summarize it is a for real possible problem!

coax
10-06-2010, 09:45 AM
I'll add a few first (and secondhand) bits.


Front Steering Knuckle studs (check torque). Not really a "care item" but something to check. I replaced mine with the male torx ones from Dan.
Checking the Oil Cooler gasket. This is second hand, but Robbie had relayed some info to me when he did my HG that there was a bit of blockage / obstruction, probably from when the po switched from red to red/green mix :rolleyes:
Checking the EGR/VSV vaccum modulator (I think thats the name??) Anyway checking the filter in that little space ship thing. If it gets filled/torn/etc and carbon starts to make its way into that little passage through the intake or into the VSV, could cause major headaches down the road. IIRC that filter piece is pretty cheap.
Ebrake grease/adjustment. When I did my rear axle seals I tried to regrease the greasable/rustable parts in the ebrake.

treerootCO
10-06-2010, 10:30 AM
Replace the power steering hose! I have seen two failures and know of a third. All failed at the same place, in the same manner.

This is for the low pressure power steering hose. I ordered part number 44412-28160 from Toyota, approximately $25. The Cruiser part is discontinued but the Previa is a close match and rated for ATF. You will need to cut down the Previa part but the bends are very close. The web also says the line is 10mm not 3/8" but I don't know if that makes any difference.

AShoe
10-06-2010, 11:06 AM
I used entirely gates unbent hoses and wrapped them where there might be rubbing. You might get a better fit with bent hoses, but at 4-5 times the price. (I spent about $100 on hoses). Nothing seems to be rubbing so far. I have a spare engine/trans/tcase sitting in my garage so I just measured everything and went to work. The engine mounts took probably two hours. I put my floor jack under the transfer case, lifted it up and changed the trans mount, then just did the engine one side at a time. I actally lifted the engine with a gantry crane so I would have more room underneath.

Rzeppa
10-08-2010, 01:26 PM
Replace the power steering hose! I have seen two failures and know of a third. All failed at the same place, in the same manner.

This is for the low pressure power steering hose. I ordered part number 44412-28160 from Toyota, approximately $25. The Cruiser part is discontinued but the Previa is a close match and rated for ATF. You will need to cut down the Previa part but the bends are very close. The web also says the line is 10mm not 3/8" but I don't know if that makes any difference.

Interesting - the low pressure PS return line on my HZJ75 also went out. I had some fuel line which fit perfectly and was good to go.

Inukshuk
11-08-2010, 08:17 AM
Checking the EGR/VSV vaccum modulator (I think thats the name??) Anyway checking the filter in that little space ship thing. If it gets filled/torn/etc and carbon starts to make its way into that little passage through the intake or into the VSV, could cause major headaches down the road. IIRC that filter piece is pretty cheap.


What is that?

coax
11-08-2010, 09:56 AM
Check the second post in this mud thread: http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/261435-egr-testing-question-noob.html

Its the left side(PS) spaceship thingy with vaccume lines going into and out of it. IIRC it just snaps or screws open to check the filter.

Inukshuk
11-08-2010, 05:04 PM
Check the second post in this mud thread: http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/261435-egr-testing-question-noob.html

Its the left side(PS) spaceship thingy with vaccume lines going into and out of it. IIRC it just snaps or screws open to check the filter.

Got it.



FWIW I also learned today that my front caliper mounting bolts should have washers on them. I have none. Thanks C-Dan!