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View Full Version : How to pull a 2F


Pdwight
10-11-2010, 02:48 PM
I am debating over my original 2F, it has bad blowby in cylinder #5. I thought about pulling the head and pan and see what I can find out....but now I think I need to pull the entire thing...I need to install a new Clutch anyway. This engine has 85K original miles on it...I bought it new from a dealer who used it as a demo way back when I had more hair and less waist

I have not seen a comprehensive step by step guide to pulling a 2F, Tran, and Transfer all at the same time...is there one ?

Thanks
Dwight
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rover67
10-11-2010, 02:57 PM
You know, In general I'd say get a Haynes manual and just follow the steps it describes... I mean basically all you are doing is disconnecting everything that is attached to it and yanking it out.

A jack placed under the transfer case/tranny when you are sliding it out initially makes it slip out a bit easier. Also, you may want to think about removing the front "clip" (fenders and radiator support assembly) It is quick and relatively easy to do and gives you a ton of space around the motor.

Pdwight
10-11-2010, 03:04 PM
I had the front clip off about 12 years ago when I rebuilt the front axles and installed new springs and tie rod ends....Your right it comes off fast. I just wondered if there was anything special to look out for....besides being heavy :)
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Pdwight
10-11-2010, 03:05 PM
Years ago I had read that the 2F engines used in later model FJ60s had more horsepower and ran stronger than late 70's 2F's is there any truth to this ??
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RicardoJM
10-11-2010, 03:09 PM
I've been involved in pulling a couple of engines from FJ40s this summer. The first time I followed the step by step in the 1971 FSM and took very detailed notes of everything I did. The notes flowed over 5 pages. The second time around was at Air Randy's and we were not as thorough in our note taking - but everything was out in an evening.

Marco's advice is good. Remove the battery, then start taking the accessories off of the engine. The radiator and frame will come out as a unit, i.e. no need to remove the radiator from the frame then remove the frame. The front bib should just fold down out of the way. If you have power steering, do not disconnect the hoses, just get the bracket or pump off and move it to the side. When you hook up the chain, the balance point for engine/tranny/t-case is just above the number 5 spark plug hole. You might want to remove the rear motor mounts from the bell housing as it minimizes any bumping, especially with the brake line and steering rod on the drivers side of the engine bay.

FJBRADY
10-11-2010, 03:12 PM
I've been involved in pulling a couple of engines from FJ40s this summer. The first time I followed the step by step in the 1971 FSM and took very detailed notes of everything I did. The notes flowed over 5 pages. The second time around was at Air Randy's and we were not as thorough in our note taking - but everything was out in an evening.

Marco's advice is good. Remove the battery, then start taking the accessories off of the engine. The radiator and frame will come out as a unit, i.e. no need to remove the radiator from the frame then remove the frame. The front bib should just fold down out of the way. If you have power steering, do not disconnect the hoses, just get the bracket or pump off and move it to the side. When you hook up the chain, the balance point for engine/tranny/t-case is just above the number 5 spark plug hole. You might want to remove the rear motor mounts from the bell housing as it minimizes any bumping, especially with the brake line and steering rod on the drivers side of the engine bay.

"Check out the big brain on Brad" righty tighty yeah right Ricardo.

All good stuff. Good luck.

Air Randy
10-11-2010, 04:42 PM
I am debating over my original 2F, it has bad blowby in cylinder #5

What do you mean by "bad blowby"? The 2F's are notorious for burning the exhaust valve on the #5 cylinder because thats where it takes vacuum off for the brake booster. If your compression readings are low only on #5, chances are that is all it is. You can fix that simply by pulling the head and doing a good valve job.

While the head is off you can drop the pan, pop the pistons and install new rings & rod bearings in an easy afternoon. It shouldn't be in that bad of shape with only 85,000 miles.

Pdwight
10-11-2010, 04:53 PM
That would be great news, I could afford that in a couple of bites.....I could do that without removing the engine. I appreciate the info
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Corbet
10-11-2010, 07:07 PM
I don't think anyone mentioned making sure you have a big engine hoist. Engine/trans is going to be heavy. We had to separate the two when doing my engine swap. The hoist we used could not lift the two of them together.

farnhamstj
10-12-2010, 08:41 AM
Another good tip is to remove the front wheels and lower the axle onto the jackstands so the front brakes are just off the concrete. That way you don't have to lift the engine as high to get it out. My engine hoist hit the garage door when open and ceiling with the wheels on the truck.

SteveH
10-12-2010, 11:02 AM
>Years ago I had read that the 2F engines used in later model FJ60s had more horsepower >and ran stronger than late 70's 2F's is there any truth to this ??

I would argue they rev a wee bit smoother, and most seem to be in better shape at 175K miles than an earlier 2F, but they are not appreciably more powerful. I would not swap a good running older 2F for a '81-87 2F just for imagined power gains. You do get a better distributor, an oil cooler, and a few other nice-to-haves, but the difference isn't monumental. Others may feel differently.