View Full Version : I cant get the head on my 2F to budge
10-16-2010, 01:11 AM
Sorry for cross posting but I am out of ideas. I pulled the manifolds,valve cover, rocker arm assembly, head bolts and lots of other things tonight and I cannot get my head to budge. I tried whacking it with a dead blow hammer....I tried prying with a screwdriver and no go.....I even tried whacking the side with a 4X4 to shake it loose.....but no go.
I am up for ideas??
I have gone to bed with a pipe with plastic cap jacked up on the edge of the head hoping it will break free tonight.
Thanks for any help
Yamaha XS850 (http://www.cyclechaos.com/wiki/Yamaha_XS850)
10-16-2010, 07:25 AM
I've never tried it but I've read about cranking the motor to use the pressure from the pistons to pop loose a sticky head.
10-16-2010, 07:26 AM
On the last F engine head I did, I used a bottle jack under the front lifting hook to push it upwards. The gasket was glued on with something and would not let go with out doing this. One idea from a recent job.
10-16-2010, 09:29 AM
Sounds like you forgot a bolt. I don't know the f motors but on hondas there's a hidden braced tying the head and block together. There ia also a flat spot on the block that has a relife in the head so that you can place a prybar in it to pop up the head. Every motor I've worked on has a spot like this. Tipically only one spot per head but a few have 2. ( and there on the corners )
10-16-2010, 02:29 PM
Yamaha RZ350 (http://www.cyclechaos.com/wiki/Yamaha_RZ350)
10-16-2010, 06:50 PM
As far as I can see you got them all, there are no hidden ones on a 2F. Put a long bar into one of the exhaust ports so you can get some real lift on it. If this thing has never been off since the factory it can really be stuck on between the adhesives they use and the rust that forms. You may have to give it a real uummph. I have a 4' crow bar I had to stick in my exhaust port and lift like heck in order to get it off.
10-16-2010, 07:29 PM
I removed the battery tray, fuel pump and reinstalled the lift hook on the front. I made a base of wooden blocks on the engine mount and used a 3 ton bottle jack to put upward pressure on the front hook It almost straightened the hook out and I did not dare put more pressure...I then used a chisel to tap at the front of the block didn't have to tap much and it went big time. I got it pulled and the problem cylinders #5 and 6 did not look bad...even the valves looked OK. I can just hang a fingernail on the very top of the cylinders where the head goes.....the cylinder walls look mirror shiny. I had forgotten but when I bought this from the the Tpyota dealership they did a head gasket 8 months after I purchased this vehicle....that was way back in 1980....if you look whoever did this had covered the opening up in the front of the engine head....a poor job IMHO.
Here are some pics. I appreciate everyones help
Suzuki TS90 (http://www.cyclechaos.com/wiki/Suzuki_TS90)
10-17-2010, 10:22 AM
I had the same scenario with my 2F = the valves & piston were OK but I had 0 compression on number 5 cylinder. It was a bad head gasket. Look at the land area between #5 and #6 to see if there is any different coloration that the rest of the area.
If you're pretty sure the pistons are OK I would just send the head out to get it checked & rebuilt. Keep in mind the valves may look OK but you could have a cracked valve seat or even a cracked head which you can't always see easily. Be sure and check the deck of the block to make sure it isnt warped using a long straight edge.
Use a good quality head gasket when you put it back together. Make sure everything is spotless clean on both mating surfaces. You don't have to use any type of gasket sealer. If you do have some minor scratches on the surface you can use a little spray copper coat.
Let us know how it turns out.
10-17-2010, 10:48 AM
like someone once told me. "big prybar + BFH"
10-17-2010, 11:24 AM
Nice work. Good luck with the rebuild. I'm going to stick with these fancy Al heads now. They don't stick.
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