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View Full Version : Newbie painting-ish roof rack rust mitigation.


coax
10-18-2010, 03:23 PM
So I decided to tackle the roofrack rust on the cruiser. I had ripped out the roof rack at the beginning of the summer, but had never gotten around to actually fixing it.

I didn't have high expectations at the onset as this was the first time I have ever done any sort of auto painting so it was considered a learning experience. And with my rack and lift, the only way you'll see the roof is if you are between 6'6 and 7 foot tall.

For paint, I picked up 2 cans of color matched Cashmere, a can of self etching primer, and some top coat from sherwin williams in boulder. Total cost was about $45. I opted not to go with the top coat with hardener, as it has to be used in 24 hours of starting.

coax
10-18-2010, 03:27 PM
Here is what I started with.

Passenger Rear:
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_RHGIeuamB_E/TLy6AyWiBGI/AAAAAAAAArY/dO6k_tITDwo/s912/DSCF2885.JPG

Passenger Front:
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_RHGIeuamB_E/TLy59Fl3mTI/AAAAAAAAAq8/442VDi8VzPs/s912/DSCF2891.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_RHGIeuamB_E/TLy5-Ui1Y7I/AAAAAAAAArE/Ezmv5us2vUQ/s912/DSCF2890.JPG

Drivers Front.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_RHGIeuamB_E/TLy592BKLiI/AAAAAAAAArA/fsPrWYfLu5w/s912/DSCF2892.JPG

Forgot to snap a pick of drivers back. And in case anyone was wondering, duct tape left on for 4 months doesn't like to come off :rant:

coax
10-18-2010, 03:32 PM
My first step was to grind down all old paint, rust, and tape. I started by hand and quickly went to angle grinder w/ flap disc. I used a dremel with some small cut off wheels to do the fine work around the inserts and to clean up what the grinder wouldn't get.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_RHGIeuamB_E/TLy6AunfghI/AAAAAAAAArU/ig_T-j0-z0I/s912/DSCF2886.JPG

After that I taped up around the areas needing paint, cleaned with rubbing alcohol and hit with 3-4 coats of primer.

DS front
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_RHGIeuamB_E/TLy53sycdCI/AAAAAAAAAqw/AWrvbvWplR0/s912/DSCF2894.JPG

DS Rear
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_RHGIeuamB_E/TLy58UWV7fI/AAAAAAAAAq0/Dd5klbFuKDE/s912/DSCF2895.JPG

PS front
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_RHGIeuamB_E/TLy58zp2HwI/AAAAAAAAAq4/cz8ArfJBCsU/s912/DSCF2893.JPG

PS rear
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_RHGIeuamB_E/TLy5_PQkzgI/AAAAAAAAArI/shiMeSJmz90/s912/DSCF2888.JPG

coax
10-18-2010, 03:35 PM
Now here's where I messed up a bit. On the ps rear, I put too many coats of primer and too many coats of topcoat on without movign the tape, or just doing free-hand painting.

This caused a pretty noticeable "ridge" where the new paint stops. Oh, well, live and learn.

For the other 3, I moved the tape back 1/2 inch after the primer to try and get it a bit more smooth, and used some steel wool on the edges. Not great, but a bit better than the others.

I think if I were going to do it again, I'd just tape for the primer, and then spray and try and taper by hand for the top coat.

This shows the old color and the newly painted area. You can tell by the dividing line between the two. May try to see if that will buff out.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_RHGIeuamB_E/TLy5_mh5SFI/AAAAAAAAArM/GqnqM0A2ivs/s912/DSCF2889.JPG

I still have to put on the clear coat, but its raining today so that will wait till tomorrow.

Overall I think color match is really quite good for a $12 can of paint. I have only used probably 1/4 of one can. So maybe I'll get rid of the two tone body cladding some day.

nakman
10-18-2010, 03:45 PM
That's sweet, I hope to do the exact same thing this winter.. what's your plan for the nutzerts? Looks like you're leaving them in place, are you going to just leave screws in them?

coax
10-18-2010, 04:19 PM
That's sweet, I hope to do the exact same thing this winter.. what's your plan for the nutzerts? Looks like you're leaving them in place, are you going to just leave screws in them?

Yep, the 6/8 nutserts that are left I was going to try and find some rubber type washers and leave the screws in them. I should add I got some other smaller screws; the one in almost all the way is not one of the long ones. Apparently I only kept one long screw, but I wish I had kept more as they are easier to paint around. I briefly considered getting out the mig and trying to fill them, but in the end decided I was more likely to blow a hole in my roof and catch the liner on fire, so I decided not to.

For the 2 that lost the inserts, I got some plastic plugs at lowes, and will try and seal them with some automotive silicone or some such. If I had the time I would have liked to drop the liner and get it looking real good, but with work the way it is right now it was a handful of hours vs a bunch more time. So I just hope to keep it from rusting further for a while.

nakman
10-18-2010, 04:30 PM
The "right" way to do it is drop the head liner then weld them all shut.. then get the grinder out to make it smooth again. Treeroot had good success with that, I believe, though it was a bunch of work. Alternatively, I wonder if you could just put some JB weld in the threads, crank in a screw then grind the whole thing flush? If it's flat on top that's all you need right?

I wish I'd have left those 4 rails on, like you did, but I have even more old rubber gunk up there to remove still and 8 more holes.

Hulk
10-18-2010, 06:04 PM
I opted not to go with the top coat with hardener, as it has to be used in 24 hours of starting.

You can't mix in the hardener in small batches, so you can use what you need and keep the rest for later?

Looks good. I should do this -- I'm just fearful of the rust I'm sure to find. :(

Inukshuk
10-18-2010, 06:18 PM
I wonder if you could just put some JB weld in the threads, crank in a screw then grind the whole thing flush?

Sounds like a grand idea! I'll have to do this sometime too.

Jacket
10-18-2010, 07:51 PM
Nice job getting in there and trying it out. I learned that same lesson on the rear quarter panels of my 40 about layering the primer and top coat. If you tape off just a small section, you'll never be able to match it up with the rest of the panel and it'll raise up. Like you discovered, opening up the size of the hole, and feathering the overspray a bit to try and blend it with the rest of the body works a bit better. Follow that with some light sanding with like 1000 grit paper, and repeat as needed.

The good news is that the roof is out of sight 99% of the time, and you've dealt with the rust problem.

coax
10-21-2010, 10:08 AM
k. Alternatively, I wonder if you could just put some JB weld in the threads, crank in a screw then grind the whole thing flush? If it's flat on top that's all you need right?

I think if you did this you'd want to be careful with the last bit of grinding, and then use some jbweld on the nutsert itself. With the top "flange" so to speak gone, I think it would be really easy for the nutsert to fall into the roof.

coax
10-21-2010, 10:15 AM
Ok, so I am calling the painting section done. Turned out OK. SOme sections better than others. But it was a learning experience, and its on the roof so :rolleyes:

PS Rear, no feathering
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_RHGIeuamB_E/TMBksdEg3mI/AAAAAAAAArs/edXLNwvs5As/s912/DSCF2896.JPG

PS Front
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_RHGIeuamB_E/TMBkvXH5crI/AAAAAAAAAr0/d9o3HkKq6FY/s912/DSCF2898.JPG

PS rear with some Steel wool, but no re-feather with color.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_RHGIeuamB_E/TMBk0ojUYPI/AAAAAAAAAsA/jix-eNuCCIs/s912/DSCF2901.JPG

PS Front. Ended up feathering with steel wool, and doing some by hand color before the Clearcoat. Came out much better where I did that.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_RHGIeuamB_E/TMBk-FtRvAI/AAAAAAAAAsU/79C97NnDgAU/s912/DSCF2905.JPG

PS front again.
http://picasaweb.google.com/hobogoesrogue/RoofRack#5530531385550409058

DS front. Not too bad.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_RHGIeuamB_E/TMBlBYJQsbI/AAAAAAAAAsc/oAf3n8fauKY/s912/DSCF2907.JPG

DS rear. Not too bad either.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_RHGIeuamB_E/TMBlFIf9hnI/AAAAAAAAAsk/i8H-dOF2U-M/s912/DSCF2909.JPG

PS Rear...the guinea pig. Looks not great, but should keep water out :D
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_RHGIeuamB_E/TMBlPCCWRXI/AAAAAAAAAtA/EWQXc4OT9O8/s912/DSCF2914.JPG

coax
10-22-2011, 05:11 PM
Just wanted to post a quick update. Paint is holding up well, especially for being outside all year at 8k elevation. The rubber washers I purchased originally for the regular screws on the 6 nutserts pretty much disintegrated. I purchased a few of those washers that Jacket clued me into. (http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showpost.php?p=184760&postcount=10) I purchased them at home depot. Lowes didn't have them. Pretty cheap, and look like they'll work much better. Its definitely a better seal. Looks like its been almost exactly 1 year its been done.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ZuSXExRVIOo/TqNMqZn7wuI/AAAAAAAABUI/na46T9XUPsQ/s800/IMG_0010.JPG

The white powerish stuff is some wax that didn't get buffed out. The new paint looks just the same as it did a year ago.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WPHHS6q7lCs/TqNMrRO6yDI/AAAAAAAABUQ/EQ7wmwys3hU/s912/IMG_0011.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-7BlI9TbbHgY/TqNMsC3NcHI/AAAAAAAABUY/xSV0DXFJUbM/s912/IMG_0012.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-avWK4n7Tlso/TqNMtBcnHCI/AAAAAAAABUg/rrSRa5T9_rI/s912/IMG_0013.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-frVEd-QbcU4/TqNMt2mHduI/AAAAAAAABUo/whZqu98tYdY/s912/IMG_0014.JPG