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AxleIke
01-26-2011, 07:19 PM
Time to do it again.

Circumstances are right, and I picked up the 89 runner that was for sale here a while back. I've had an FJ80 axle I picked up from UB a couple years back, but didn't have time or money to put it in. Also picked up a high pinion ARB'd 4.88 diff from a guy, still new in box built by Marlin.

So, the project begins. Many of the goodies will from my 87 will be moved over from my 87 to the 89. I'm selling the 89's front suspension, front and rear diffs, and the 87's motor, as well as my 35" BFG KM's.

The new Baby Beast will be reborn with a 3.4, R151, dual ultimates and ARB's, 3 link front, 4 link rear. That is, assuming it ever gets done, and I don't burn out :D

Now I am finally making some progress. I got the wrecked hood, and outter fender off this weekend, and got my tcases out of my 87. I'm going to build the 89 because, aside from the front end damage, the body is in much better shape than my 87.

Tonight I got the front clip removed. I'm not sure how I'm going to button it up yet but the current thought is to build tubing supports for the body panels, and construct "inner fenders" out of some sheet metal to hold accessories, and electrical. Either way, it will likely retain full body width as this will be DD capable.

This weekend I hope to pull the r151 out of our turbo truck and get the r150 from this truck re-installed into the turbo truck so it can continue DD duties. We'll see how far I get on that.

Some pictures:

Truck as it sat when I brought it down:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4613.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4618.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4614.jpg

Truck came with brand new MTR Kevlars on it in the 35x12.5 variety. I've read good things about them, so I plan to run these for a while, see how I like them:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4615.jpg

And the nice front end components that will be sold, except for the CO's

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4617.jpg

and finally some progress:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4619.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4622.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4621.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4620.jpg

and my first screw up. (I'm sure there will be many, many more)

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4623.jpg

Took me another hour to get all of that stripped, extentions cut, and everything re-soldered. So far, everything works again, so I got all the connections remade. Silly stuff like this tends to chap my ass, but, its all good. Just gotta keep my eyes on BOTH sides of the cut.

Ordered up the final few joints and bushings from both Poly and Ballistic to begin the front suspension. I'm still shopping around for a good price on tube. So far, best choice seems to be online, but I'm hoping a local yard will have what I need. I've decided to go with 2" OD, .375 wall lowers and 1.5" .250 wall upper, and panhard. Still, I have a bunch of work to do before I need the tube, so I've got plenty of time to look around.

At first I thought the front hoops would be able to be reused, but looking at the height now, it doesn't look good. Too bad, as they are nice units. ORS built the truck, and they did either a nice job building the hoops, or a nice install on Total Chaos' hoops. However, I think they are going to be too low to acommodate the ride height I'm trying to achieve. We'll see.

Hopefully I'll have more this weekend.

RockRunner
01-26-2011, 08:14 PM
Nice start Isaac. I will be following your build now ;) How about a few pictures of the interior to see what I missed on:rolleyes: Are you going to keep it nice and low like I need to do :o

Keep the pics coming I enjoy other people working better.:lmao:

J Kimmel
01-26-2011, 08:42 PM
you going to cut the frame in the front to get it lower? If I was to do it all over again thats what I would've done :)

AxleIke
01-26-2011, 09:55 PM
Dunno Jeremy. I've been thinking about it, but looking at how everything sits in there, I'm not sure a raised front section would help. I'm still figuring stuff out. Gotta get the drivetrain in first, then I'll see what's in store.

AxleIke
01-26-2011, 09:57 PM
Tom, the interior is garbage. Old, ratty red color, and everything behind the rear seats is missing. Perfect for me, as my nice, grey interior will be going in. The dash has a ton of guages in it, which I will be getting rid of.

RockRunner
01-26-2011, 10:25 PM
I just took a look at the pictures again and remember now. He did like his gauges:D I didn't know the back was all trashed, but since you have yours it is an easy but time consuming swap. I keep wanting to get gray in mine, that brown color is only worse to the red:eek:

Well keep the pics coming, looking forward to the progress.

J Kimmel
01-26-2011, 10:50 PM
build your front first at full stuff, slide the front as far forward as you want, and then build the rear to match

:)

when I did mine, I did the rear first, and linked the front later on. If I were to do it over, I would do the front first as low as I can reasonably get it, and then build the rear to match weather its links or springs.

mine has proven to be a good truck, but there are more than a couple things I would do differently :)

AxleIke
01-27-2011, 12:03 AM
I am building the front first. I knew it'd be easy enough to match the rear to the front.

I'd like to have my frame at 20", but I'm not sure that is possible. We'll see.

Myredyota
01-27-2011, 01:06 AM
Isaac
Do I remember that the diffs are 4.88's? Is the rear for a V6? What would you want for the rear? How about the TC Idler arm? :D I "assume" that the rest of the TC steering components (tie rods) will not work on a stock width front end.

Uncle Ben
01-27-2011, 06:47 AM
I am building the front first. I knew it'd be easy enough to match the rear to the front.

I'd like to have my frame at 20", but I'm not sure that is possible. We'll see.

You should chat with Kaleb! I think he is at 22" with uncut frame.

Jacket
01-27-2011, 08:59 AM
So you'll lose all the work you did with your belly lift? Maybe that's less of an issue with the new plans.

Subscribed. Get 'er done quickly so you can do some wheelin' this summer!

rover67
01-27-2011, 09:14 AM
Sweet dude! Quite a project, should be fun to watch!

Are the control arms on the new rig the long travel type? If so I *might* be interested

AxleIke
01-27-2011, 10:30 AM
Isaac
Do I remember that the diffs are 4.88's? Is the rear for a V6? What would you want for the rear? How about the TC Idler arm? :D I "assume" that the rest of the TC steering components (tie rods) will not work on a stock width front end.


yup, 4.88's. I'd like to sell both diffs together, as it would make a perfect upgrade for any IFS guy, with the auburn LSD up front, and detroit in the rear.

I'm going to sell the idler with the front end, sorry. Just makes more sense that way.

AxleIke
01-27-2011, 10:31 AM
You should chat with Kaleb! I think he is at 22" with uncut frame.

Nice. He's on leaves still too, with 40's, right? I'm pretty sure I can hit 22. 20 is going to be a bit harder.

AxleIke
01-27-2011, 10:33 AM
So you'll lose all the work you did with your belly lift? Maybe that's less of an issue with the new plans.

Subscribed. Get 'er done quickly so you can do some wheelin' this summer!

Yes and no. This truck has a body lift on it. I'm contemplating leaving that in, and sucking things up as much as it will allow, as the flatbelly was sweet, but loud. I'm still not sold either way yet. If I decide not to, then I can pull out the body lift and remodify the floor, which will go a lot faster this time, as I have learned from all my mistakes.

I'd love to have this done by my wedding in June, but I don't think thats going to happen. I really want to go to Black Hills.

Sweet dude! Quite a project, should be fun to watch!

Are the control arms on the new rig the long travel type? If so I *might* be interested

Thanks Marco! And yes, they are LT, but I've already got several folks interested in them.

AxleIke
01-27-2011, 10:34 AM
I'd buy the diff pair. Might pull out the Detroit, though.

Got rid of the ARB's?

Cheese
01-31-2011, 04:42 PM
How did you come into that 89?

I think I know the guys who did the swap if I am thinking of the right rig.

Exciting start. Can I interest you in mine instead?

thefatkid
01-31-2011, 10:37 PM
How did you come into that 89?

I think I know the guys who did the swap if I am thinking of the right rig.

Exciting start. Can I interest you in mine instead?

Your going to sell that thing? I'm going to call Mike and tell on you.

AxleIke
01-31-2011, 10:55 PM
How did you come into that 89?

I think I know the guys who did the swap if I am thinking of the right rig.

Exciting start. Can I interest you in mine instead?

Sorry man, can't afford it.

Cheese
01-31-2011, 10:59 PM
Did a guy named Bill have that runner? If I remember, it was a screaming swap with a super charger, pulley, etc.

Brian, not selling, but thinking about what good it does parked in front of the house.

Glad y'all are doing well.

AxleIke
01-31-2011, 11:01 PM
Only update to show for the weeked was a monumental amount of work, foolishly tackled by myself. Got the R150 out of the black truck, the R151 out of the turbo truck, swapped bellhousings and crossmembers, and got the r150 back into the turbo truck.

Major follow up problems include: Broken lower bolt on the starter. I literally have no idea how that will come out.

Rear tcase flange has to be replaced with the r151 gear drive flange because the two bolt patterns are different. Didn't get it done because I didn't have the right sized stake nut.

Floor has to be modified just slightly to accomodate the fact that the r150 shifters sit back 2.5" from the r151. I have a bunch more work ahead of me, sadly, before I can even start working on my truck.

Crap.

AxleIke
01-31-2011, 11:05 PM
Did a guy named Bill have that runner? If I remember, it was a screaming swap with a super charger, pulley, etc.

Brian, not selling, but thinking about what good it does parked in front of the house.

Glad y'all are doing well.

YEah it was. Not its a swapped truck with no SC. SC went to my dads rig, as I didn't want the extra oomph, as it would only get me speeding tickets, and since i'm sticking to 8" stuff for now, I don't need to put down any more torque than what the stock motor will do.

There are a few things on the truck that I'm not wild about, such as the hardwired transmission and tcase wires (no plugs), and the over the top guage set up.

That and the interior is red. All of that is coming out, and the interior is going back to a much more stockish gray.

As for your truck, why not come wheeling? There has to be SOME time when you aren't lumber-jacking around :D Had to say it, laughing at my computer too much to not. sorry.

Jacket
02-01-2011, 09:42 AM
Crap.

Roll with the punches. The future is bright.

TIMZTOY
02-01-2011, 10:02 AM
Well I cant go back go work for 3 months. If you'd like some wrench, fab and welding help (hoping your in the Denver area)

AxleIke
02-01-2011, 11:46 AM
Thanks Tim. May take you up on that. Gotta pull the starter again and try to extract that busted bolt.

Matt, I know, just would rather be rolling with the punches building my truck, not repairing the damage to my dads. :D

Red_Chili
02-01-2011, 12:49 PM
Well shoes.

I was gonna suggest you rethink the R151 swap. You will like the shifting better with the R150. If you simply MUST have that low first, it can be done without the tranny swap (trannies are very similar inside and share many parts).

Not to mention the interior changes for very little benefit. Don't get me wrong, I like the R151, but much of its fan club is based on mystique. Nuttin' wrong with a V6 adapter.

That truck was a sweet running machine and simply BEGGED for a SAS. He wanted to Baja it all the time though. Looks like it is finally finding its destiny.

Red_Chili
02-01-2011, 12:59 PM
Oh, and 4.88s are ideal with the 3.4.

With a blown 3.4, they may actually be a tad short.

AxleIke
02-01-2011, 01:18 PM
Bill, the R151 was only to avoid the adapter. Not to get any of the gearing. The associated stuff I'd need for the R150 would run well over 800. Here I'm looking at 200 ish for the 23spline stuff for the rear case and adapter. Simply the economic issue. I need all the money for the SAS, and the axle shafts, plus link material.

And the 3.4 is back to stock. Like I said, I didn't want the SC.

Red_Chili
02-01-2011, 01:44 PM
Where did the SC go? Sold it?

AxleIke
02-01-2011, 05:17 PM
Went to my dad's 97.

wesintl
02-01-2011, 07:00 PM
what ever happened to 33x9.5's taking you everywhere? ;)

nice build. more pics :)

AxleIke
02-01-2011, 09:50 PM
33x9.5's were amazing. Worked well, and I recommend them to anyone who wants a great tire for on and offroad while maintaining good mileage.

To be honest, I just like to build stuff. I also want to be able to run mild, moderate, and hard trails without the constant nagging worry about things blowing up. Sure, things can still break, but its less likely.

I also want to try some harder trails, that weren't really practical with the 33's and IFS. Sure, the truck probably could have done them, but I feel that it is irresponsible to get into a trail, and then clog it up with a vehicle with known, preventable deficiencies, and then ruin everyone else's day behind you while you try to limp home.

But mostly, its just because I've never done it before. I like wrenching, welding, and making stuff. This kind of vehicle is way overkill for about 95% of the driving it will see, both road, and offroad.

My goal here is to make a comfortable, road worthy (and fairly easy to drive) truck that can drive some, but certainly not all, of the hardest trails in the southwest, and, the main key, drive back.

To be honest, I'm really leaning towards having this as my wheeling truck, and then getting a DD late 90's runner, keeping it stock, and having that as my backcountry adventure truck for hiking/camping. Put an elocker in the back, and get some good stock tires for it.

That is, unless my brother figures out a way to import a 2011 76 series from Mali.

AxleIke
02-01-2011, 10:12 PM
Also, in the case Bill, the r150 isn't much better at all. It is an 89 model, and has the older style syncro's. It shifts about the same. First requires a double clutch, and the other gears require just a little force to pop in. Runs great though.

Red_Chili
02-08-2011, 02:47 PM
It ain't healthy if it requires a double clutch. Try some Redline MT-90 to see if it makes a difference. Give it 300 miles or so.

Rezarf
02-08-2011, 10:28 PM
what ever happened to 33x9.5's taking you everywhere? ;)

nice build. more pics :)

Snicker, snicker... :thumb:

Looks like lots of work ahead Isaac! You will knock it out of the park I am sure. This thread may just get me checking in a bit more.

I am just glad to see the top is already popped off, finally you can enjoy a topless rig when it warms up! :D

AxleIke
02-09-2011, 08:52 AM
It ain't healthy if it requires a double clutch. Try some Redline MT-90 to see if it makes a difference. Give it 300 miles or so.

Eh, not too big a deal. Marlin isn't selling rebuild kits right now, and the clutch in this truck is pretty new. I'll run the transmission until a new clutch is needed, and then rebuild it.

Rezarf
02-13-2011, 07:42 AM
Bump for a weekend update. ;)

AxleIke
02-13-2011, 07:34 PM
Got a bunch of errands run this weekend, as well as the house cleaned and taxes done.

Bought a bunch of steel on Friday, and today I picked up the rest from my folks place.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4632.jpg

Lower link material is .250 wall 2" OD DOM. May also sleeve this inside with .120 wall tube, just for the heck of it. We'll see. To me, this 2" seems SUPER strong, but I've thought that before.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4633.jpg

Also on Friday, I got a screaming deal on this. Refurbed Milwaukee portable band saw. Oh man, does it cut REALLY nice, super clean, and very quiet. Don't even need hearing protection.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4629.jpg

I cleaned off the R151 and transfercase at the local carwash. Took 20 bucks, and its still not perfect, but its a TON better than it was, and the little bits of extra crap I can take off pretty quickly.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4635.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4630.jpg

On Saturday I got the fuel and exhuast systems removed, so I'm close to having my blank canvas.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4625.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4626.jpg

Lastly, I picked up my axle from my folks place. I'm super excited to get this baby under the truck. Obviously, it will also need a visit to the car wash first.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4627.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4628.jpg

Now, I have a question for you guys. This is the dual battery system that came in the truck.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4634.jpg

Within 2 weeks of recieving the truck, both batteries were so completely dead that they needed overnight charging before they could even be jumped. The system is very basic, just a marine switch, and 2 batteries. No extra isolation. Do I need any? I'm pretty sure these batteries are shot, as they still can't do anything without a jump. That, and I'm not a big fan of the optima's, since they cost a lot, and the new ones seem to have a reputation for crapping out after a year.

Anyway, I'm new to dual batt's, so any advice is appreciated.

RockRunner
02-13-2011, 09:50 PM
Nice pick up on the saw Isaac they do cut like butter and quiet.

If not mistaken you still need an isolator with the marine switch but check with Gary for sure, he is running one in his 45. I have noticed with my gel batteries that wore down all and I mean all the way that I had to charge them for a long time on 2.0 volts. My charger has a setting that tells me if my battery is to far gone so it won't charge it. What I had to do was use a jump box plugged in AND my charger for three days before it was fully charged and kept it. If they don't take it after that I would say they are toast.

Red_Chili
02-14-2011, 09:20 AM
If you want the truck's charging system to charge both batts, you need a solenoid (like, a starter solenoid) that picks on IGN hot, so that when you turn off the truck the batts are isolated. That way, also, the isolated batt is your reserve batt in case you draw down the primary when camping and running ACC with the motor off. You can also wire in a three way switch, Picked on IGN - Isolated (off) - Picked on B+/jump, so you can self jump.

It's simple, and requires no further electronic complexity (and failure points). IMHO the solid state isolaters out there aren't worth the shipping, much less the price, and some of them use 1960s electronics to boot and drop at least .7V on charge voltage - not good.

The problem with a manual switch is, most folks leave the batts in parallel rather than turning the switch to isolate them. That's OK for a daily driver, but batteries CAN discharge into each other (one batt looks like a load to the other, rather than a voltage source), leaving you with a surprise.

AxleIke
02-14-2011, 09:37 AM
Kinda what I figured. Thanks! I thought it was odd to have no isolation, and both batts were set "on" (switch position 1 and 2) when I got it. Never thought to switch it to just one. A solenoid is a great idea. I'll have to pick one up.

Tom, thanks for the heads up on the charging. I'll give that a try.

Air Randy
02-14-2011, 10:45 AM
Kinda what I figured. Thanks! I thought it was odd to have no isolation, and both batts were set "on" (switch position 1 and 2) when I got it. Never thought to switch it to just one. A solenoid is a great idea. I'll have to pick one up.

Tom, thanks for the heads up on the charging. I'll give that a try.

Get a starter solenoid for an older Ford. They mount on the fender or firewall and are super heavy duty and really easy to hook up, not expensive either.

AxleIke
02-14-2011, 11:22 AM
Good tip! Thanks Randy!

Uncle Ben
02-14-2011, 12:00 PM
Not to discredit Randy(I am sorry!), but you want a continuous duty relay rather than a momentary high amp relay. The continuous duty relays are designed to draw less amps for an extended period of time and often use Platinum contacts rather than brass. Either will work but a starter relay will not last in a continuous demand environment as it's way outside of it's design. Unfortunately, continuous duty relays are more expensive.

rover67
02-14-2011, 12:14 PM
they seem pretty cheap:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Solenoid-Relay-Switch-Continuous-Duty-Golf-Cart-300-Amp-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem256035d490QQitemZ160527930512QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_1583wt_762

AxleIke
02-14-2011, 12:21 PM
Thanks for the heads up UB and Marco. I'll look into this more down the road. The batteries are moving first, so I won't be worried about any of that until later. Not sure why they were in the back seat, bu they aren't staying there.

Uncle Ben
02-14-2011, 12:33 PM
they seem pretty cheap:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Solenoid-Relay-Switch-Continuous-Duty-Golf-Cart-300-Amp-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem256035d490QQitemZ160527930512QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_1583wt_762

That will do! :thumb:

AxleIke
02-14-2011, 01:35 PM
It's not so much current, but duty cycle that kills starter solenoids. They are designed for high in-rush but very intermittent use and so it's usually not too much high side contact resistance but the coil that gives up. In a low duty cycle, pulsed operation the coil doesn't have enough time to heat up much but when the solenoid is held closed for long periods the coil windings burn up. The honest truth is it's usually more a question of tolerance and material than anything, if the plunger fits loosely inside the coil or the iron saturates quickly the coil is more likely to overheat. So when you compare the traditional Ford starter solenoid to one that is called continuous duty, they might be the exact same form factor but the difference is that the winding wire is just bumped up a size or increased number of turns, they use a better core material and the parts all fit better. Those are the things that will reduce the heat in the coil but increase the cost of the device.

That makes perfect sense to me. I work with soleniods and other electronics most of the time at work, and that is exactly what we get to handle cryogenic fluid switching. Beefier windings, better fit, better parts to get a valve that can handle rapid switching and extreme temp swings.

Rezarf
02-14-2011, 05:11 PM
Isaac I have a nice trickle charger for my trailer, you're welcome to leave them on each battery for a while to see if they come back to life. The circuits are protected and it won't allow you to cook either battery and it is a two bank model so you can charge them up at the same time.

Red_Chili
02-16-2011, 08:48 PM
From my experience Optimas require hefty charge current to resurrect. Trickle won't do the deed.

AxleIke
02-16-2011, 09:16 PM
Is it worth it? They seem to be crap ever since they were sold.

J Kimmel
02-16-2011, 09:20 PM
I run a wallyworld battery :shrug:

one.

AxleIke
02-16-2011, 09:24 PM
That's kinda what I was thinking. I run Costco batteries becasue they credit you money if your battery dies before the stated life.

I have never had an issue with one, and have gotten credit for the one that died a year early. Expensive batteries seem to be a joke. Duals seem to be a good solution to run a less expensive battery and still have the juice for a winch.

My old man run's an Odyssey. Loves it, and I can say it has never dissapointed. He has run them for years, and used his winch with it. However, at 320ish per battery, I fail to see the benefit.

RockRunner
02-17-2011, 08:33 AM
You have them now so I would charge them and see. If they die continuously then replace them. I would think they will still work for a while but need some TLC and the "Double" charge.

If they are crap just buy a good battery from somebody that will work with you later on. I always liked Sears or Wally world sine they are all over.

AxleIke
02-27-2011, 09:57 PM
Last weekend, I got the 80 axle all cleaned up, all the brackets, etc.. plasma's off, and the axles/birfs/knuckles cleaned up. Took a long time, as everything was quite rusted. However, the birfs, bells and knuckles all look good, and there was plenty of good grease left inside.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4647.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4648.jpg

Last week, I got some mock up knuckles from HellFire Fab-Works. Billy is a GREAT guy to work with, and has been really cool in all our communications. These are mock up ONLY, and are simply to allow me to set up the steering, and panhard angles before the new knuckles come out.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4649.jpg

To get everyone on the same page, these are what the actual knuckles will be like, once the next batch is done being cast:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_0UeDtG_3E_o/TVm_ZY9nuZI/AAAAAAAAKYE/leyxqxjINx8/s640/P1000801.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_0UeDtG_3E_o/TVm_a7WrbzI/AAAAAAAAKYM/87E8xY3ZlSM/s640/P1000802.JPG

Next, I tore down my old dual cases, and found this lovely gem awaiting me:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4639.jpg

Looks like that area isn't seeing oiling as it should. Everything else in the case was clean.

I cleaned up the r151 case and installed that as my new crawl box. Nothing is sealed and no oil is in, as everything will need to be pulled again, so I can install 23 spline stuff from Marlin. For mock up, this will work just fine.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4640.jpg

Then, everything got bolted back together. I always forget how LONG this thing is.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4641.jpg

Got everything in the truck, and started messing with drivetrain angles.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4642.jpg

Then I spent about 2 hours with a tape measure, and a beer, sitting on the floor staring at this thing.

This is where it sits.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4643.jpg

On my other runner, I cut out the floor, and did a full flat bottom. I hated the noise of that thing, and the lack of a center console, as well as the position it forced the seats to be in.

This has the 3.4 at a 3 deg back angle, stock appears to be 5. I'm tempted to leave it here. However, the loss of clearance is what has kept me from calling this final.

On the one hand, in order to triangulate the lowers on the front, to cut down on over-steer, I will need to drop the lowers slightly below frame level to keep them from hitting on the frame rails at full bump (theoretically. The bump may not be that severe, or even possible given the engine position)

However, this is far lower than those will need to be.

Anyway, this will result in some more thinking, and deciding what compromises are acceptable.

J Kimmel
02-27-2011, 10:16 PM
subframe?

Rezarf
02-27-2011, 11:22 PM
Anyway, this will result in some more thinking, and deciding what compromises are acceptable.

You can always just run bigger meats :hill:

Looking good man, I think your drivetrain is longer than my entire 40.

AxleIke
02-28-2011, 09:13 AM
subframe?

That is an excellent idea! I am going to have to look at it a bit, but that could solve several issues.

AxleIke
02-28-2011, 09:14 AM
You can always just run bigger meats :hill:

Looking good man, I think your drivetrain is longer than my entire 40.

Bigger meats are 37's. Any bigger than that and the truck is no longer viable as a DD style rig. 37's are already almost 400 per tire.

J Kimmel
02-28-2011, 10:11 AM
build one that integrates front and rear links and t case mounts.

AxleIke
02-28-2011, 10:40 AM
Yeah, that's what I was thinking, although I'm torn on the rear mounts. To change the clutch, I'll have to pull out the lowers up front, and support the front. That's not too big a deal, but having to do the rear as well could be a pain. Plus, that would make the rear lowers really long.

Anyway, just brain storming. Haven't figured it all out yet.

J Kimmel
02-28-2011, 12:26 PM
you can make your subframe whatever size you want, to whatever length you need your links to be...It would absolutely be a PITA to change a clutch, but how often do you? I've been in mine exactly zero times in 5 years.

Red_Chili
02-28-2011, 12:42 PM
Can't you make a subframe that has a tranny dropout to facilitate tranny removal/clutch service?

AxleIke
02-28-2011, 03:15 PM
Can't you make a subframe that has a tranny dropout to facilitate tranny removal/clutch service?

Not really, at least not the way I was envisioning the frame. There wouldn't be enough room to clear the bell housing on the way back.

I will likely screw around with it a bit. See what I can do. I think that the easiest way to get to it will still be to drop the sub frame.

rover67
02-28-2011, 03:29 PM
you can make your subframe whatever size you want, to whatever length you need your links to be...It would absolutely be a PITA to change a clutch, but how often do you? I've been in mine exactly zero times in 5 years.

Yeah it seems like with the crawl boxes the clutches would live for a good long time.

AxleIke
03-06-2011, 07:02 PM
Not a lot of time to work this weekend, but I got all of the IFS carefully removed so it can be shipped out, and started cutting. I'm not looking forward to the grinding.

All of the IFS out:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4650.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4651.jpg

And 10 minutes with the plasma got rid of everything on one side. Got later, and I don't like to be loud late.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4652.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4653.jpg

Hopefully I'll have more time next weekend, and can get the rest cleaned up.

RockRunner
03-06-2011, 08:45 PM
Looking good, lots of grinding ahead of you ;)

Rezarf
03-07-2011, 08:52 AM
Looking good, lots of grinding ahead of you ;)

36 grit flap disk is going to be your friend.

Looks good Isaac. I still gotta' try a plasma cutter sometime. I remember when you used to come to my place for tools... those days are long gone! Its cool to see it come along bud.:thumb:

AxleIke
03-07-2011, 11:35 AM
I'm going to try to remove a bunch of the remaining stuff with the plasma, which should give me less to grind.

The thing that has me pretty ticked right now is that the 4" bracket lift was for some unknown reason WELDED to the original IFS bracetry. This is going to make it difficult to remove so it can be sold. :rant: :mad:

RockRunner
03-07-2011, 04:12 PM
I'm going to try to remove a bunch of the remaining stuff with the plasma, which should give me less to grind.

The thing that has me pretty ticked right now is that the 4" bracket lift was for some unknown reason WELDED to the original IFS bracetry. This is going to make it difficult to remove so it can be sold. :rant: :mad:

Can you use a cutting wheel to cut thewelds and then grind them clean?

AxleIke
03-07-2011, 05:54 PM
Yeah, I'm going to have to try something like that. Its just a huge PITA. I thought it'd just unbolt and I could sell it, but it was welded on pretty extensively. My concern is messing up the brackets and making them unusable.

AxleIke
03-12-2011, 11:16 PM
Progress has been good and bad this weekend.

I started off yesterday trying to bend up some tube for the skeleton of my subframe. Mistook a line in the bending grease for my actual line, and messed up 40 bucks worth of tube. Spent a bunch of time trying to figure out if it was salvageable, decided it wasn't, and then decided I didn't like the design at all anyway.

Back to the drawing board, but I was really frustrated so I decided to continue work on the front.

I got some gouging tips for the plasma, which work really well. Took off all of the welds reasonably quickly, but more importantly, without the numbing, deafening experience of the grinder. Quick work with a disk and it was all cleaned up:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4655.jpg

Finished off the other side as well.

I also got a stand off for the plasma tip, and it works amazing. I was able to whip out some frame plates fairly quickly, touched up the edges with the belt sander, and hole sawed/step drilled some weld holes.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4657.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4656.jpg

I only got the driver side cleaned up and drilled, the passenger side will have to wait until tomorrow.

I got this side all welded up. I'm happy with the weld penetration, as it seems really solid on both surfaces, but I'm not happy with the presentation of the welds. While I realize that the quality, and not the look, counts, I am trying hard to improve my technique. I just cannot, for the life of me, get a "stacked dimes" look. It ALWAYS comes out looking like this long blobous bead, with no stacking at all. I'm thinking it has to be the angle that I hold the gun at, because I notice on my overhead welds, they look a lot less uniform, and that has to do with the awkward position. I also think it may be that I'm moving more of a U than a C when stitching the weld, but I can't seem to get the C.

Anyway, here is the finished product:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4658.jpg

and the weld

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4659.jpg

I also get a ton of spatter. Others I talk to get hardly any. I've found the anti-spatter spray works really well, but I can't figure out where the settings are off. I have the tip out of the cup a bit, so it maintains a good arc, the gas pressure is good, cup is kept fairly clear, and I follow the settings listed inside the machine. I've tried playing around, and don't get much difference in the spatter.

Anyway, thoughts or suggestions are welcome on the welding techniques, I'm at a bit of a loss.

Uncle Ben
03-13-2011, 12:44 AM
Looks awesome Alex! The welds look good but a tad slower wire speed ar a bump up in heat would make a flatter puddle.

J Kimmel
03-13-2011, 06:24 AM
just slow down.

AxleIke
03-13-2011, 08:31 AM
UB, I'll try that for sure.

Jeremy, I've tried slowing down but it seems to get way too hot then, and the gas seems to blow out the metal and make a mess. Perhaps a combination of slower wire speed and a slower pass will help.

AxleIke
03-13-2011, 10:40 PM
Well, I did the other side today. I ran a lot of practice beads before hand. I tried a slower wire speed, as this is a 175, and with the mix I've got, I'm running the highest voltage possible. Didn't make a difference with the wire speed. Also tried a slower weld speed, and it just bubbled up and screwed up the tip.

Got onto Miller's website and saw that you can make a tighter bead with better penetration by pulling the bead, rather than pushing. Tried it, and nothing. Bead is tighter, but still not ideal. Fairly frustrated with it.

Anyway, here is the final product.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4663.jpg

Welds:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4664.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4665.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4666.jpg

AxleIke
03-13-2011, 10:55 PM
Since I need to rework the subframe, and have been doing a ton of thinking about the suspension, I decided to start looking at the basics: wheel base and axle placement.

So, I took 3 measurements: Stock at 103 ish, 106, and 110.

The tire is on the jack to simulate ride height at my ideal height, 20" at the frame.

Here is stock for reference:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4669.jpg

My preference is here, at 106. The pro's are that the axle is back far enough to make fenders easy enough to modify to fit the tires, and everything looks nice. Cons are frame fitment, and uptravel.

Here is where the tire sits:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4670.jpg

As you can see, uptravel sucks, which is why this would almost necessitate frame modification:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4675.jpg

The oil pan is going away:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4677.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4673.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4678.jpg

Now, the other option is 110. The axle is in front of the oil pan, and the frame comes up, giving a lot more uptravel. The approach angle becomes almost 90 deg as the tires push forward of frame, though a bumper would likely stick out a bit.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4671.jpg

The problem here is making the fenders work. It would almost require a dovenose, which would not work to keep the police off my back. I could work some tube fenders, and go for the 70 series LC look, but still, tricky. Steering also becomes a hassle here, as, even with a reverse throw box, the pitman arm is going to stick out a ways.

Anyway, any thoughts or ideas are welcome. I haven't made up my mind, and haven't thought of everything. If anyone has an idea, shout it out

J Kimmel
03-14-2011, 08:19 AM
my advice to you is put your front end as FAR forward as is reasonable, don't worry about the rear, it can fall wherever.

I am at 112", My front is pushed ~4 forward, rear I think around 4. If I had to do it over, I would have pushed the front 7 or 8 inches and left the rear.

AxleIke
03-14-2011, 08:27 AM
I'm planning on leaving the rear where it is. I don't want to spend the time to re-locate the fenders.

As for moving it far forward, the biggest issue I have is the fenders not working. The other is that the driveshaft will be 8 miles long.

Are there other benefits besides the approach angle?

Red_Chili
03-14-2011, 09:21 AM
Another variable is breakover. Your tail will drag too. I agree with moving the front forward but these must be considered. Your ride height is creating yet more constraints but for minimal benefit.

Front fender clearance should be simple ; just cut horizontally forward from the high point of the wheel clearance.

AxleIke
03-14-2011, 10:11 AM
Another variable is breakover. Your tail will drag too. I agree with moving the front forward but these must be considered. Your ride height is creating yet more constraints but for minimal benefit.

Front fender clearance should be simple ; just cut horizontally forward from the high point of the wheel clearance.

I'm not looking for a flat cut fender as I want to retain the marker lights. I'll narrow the hood and pull the fenders in, and create a 70 series look with tubing if need be.

I disagree that ride height is for minimal benefits. I'm not wild about rolling, and also want ease of access, ie, not having to hoist myself into the truck. More stability is key.

Breakover has always sucked on this truck. But, its the price to pay for better climbing ability and better road manners.

Uncle Ben
03-14-2011, 10:48 AM
Isaac, I think you are right on track! You know how to drive and you alone know what you expect your truck to do. A flat belly pan and lower frame height is the key to stability and still doing the difficulty of trails you want too. Low and wide is the newest and most successful build trend to date! If you spend more time and effort on engineering and chassis design and less time with the buffer and wax it will serve you infinitely better on the trails! :thumb::thumb: :bowdown::zilla:

AxleIke
03-14-2011, 11:26 AM
Its going to be as low as is practical for the build.

I don't want to jump up to get in, and Dave, you are spot on for comfort. I have tried different seats, and different seat mountings, all sucked. I can not get comfortable in the truck. Thus, this build is going to incorporate a set of nicer seats, be they suspension, or normal. The seats will be custom mounted to give the best possible position.

UB, I agree that engineering the chassis is the most important part of the build. I'm just slow at it, so I have a ton of thinking, and re-thinking to do, on top of worrying about not messing up the fab, LOL.

That said, I'm leaning towards the 110 now. I think I can fab the body to look nice, and be functional. However, the driveshaft length is a bit worrysome. It seems like it will just hang out there and become a target for rocks, making for expensive repairs. I'll have to look and see what people's experience's are.

AxleIke
03-15-2011, 07:47 AM
Looked at this a little more last night.

I moved the axle forward to see what things look like. I have better clearance and more uptravel, but I found a number of other issues. One, is that there is almost no way this will clear the exhuast, though I will have to see there. The 3.4 has headers on it, which is nice, but it means that the crossover runs under the trans, not over. Just eye balling it, it looks like the driveshaft is going to run right through where the exhaut sits. I'll have to check though. I can of course go back to stock manifolds, but I do like the headers, so I'm going to have to see if I can fit them. It'll be close if I do.

Even with the exhaust out of the way, it will be REALLY tight. We'll see.

rover67
03-15-2011, 07:54 AM
Looks like you are having fun man!

I don't know if I'd worry too much about ditching the headers.... depending on how nice they are they can be the source of a lot of headaches (cracks, leaks, bad sealing, ect.)

Red_Chili
03-15-2011, 12:20 PM
IIRC they are TRD, yes? Or Downey? If TRD I doubt they will be any headaches.

AxleIke
03-15-2011, 01:22 PM
IIRC they are TRD, yes? Or Downey? If TRD I doubt they will be any headaches.

To be honest, I'm not sure. I'll have to find out.

Uncle Ben
03-15-2011, 02:34 PM
To be honest, I'm not sure. I'll have to find out.

I believe the only one who made down flow headers for the 3.4 is Downey.

rover67
03-15-2011, 02:59 PM
Yeah and I'm not totally poo-pooing headers, I'm just saying stock is nice, and headers *can* be a pain sometimes. That's all.

My truck has headers on it from Downey.

Uncle Ben
03-15-2011, 03:12 PM
BTW I have stock manifolds with heat shields and the complete "wrong" side crossover if ya want them. Price can't be beat!

AxleIke
03-15-2011, 06:14 PM
Great UB. Like I said, I'm going to have to see how things fit, but that is a good thing to have in my back pocket.

Red_Chili
03-16-2011, 07:45 AM
The stock stainless manifolds (later years) are as good as headers and much less heartache. Just another option. The crossover can be reversed from earlier years pretty easily. But you choose the later headers and a new crossover or the early manifolds and a modded crossover.

AxleIke
03-16-2011, 07:50 AM
Great to know!

It looks like I wll for sure have to ditch the exhuast. Even dropping the axle 2" for a final ride height of 22", at full compression, the exhaust will be right in the way.

The other factor is the upper link. I'm strongly considering puttin that on the driver side, which would further complicate exhuast routing.

Decisions, decisions.

Rezarf
03-16-2011, 11:17 AM
Looking good bud. You welds look solid. Don't worry about pretty, and fwiw, they look pretty good.

Drew

nakman
03-16-2011, 01:41 PM
Saw this at Target today, I picked one up for Gavin.. but the ride height looks about right, eh? Though up travel on these isn't all that much... :D

MDH33
03-16-2011, 02:04 PM
Saw this at Target today, I picked one up for Gavin.. but the ride height looks about right, eh? Though up travel on these isn't all that much... :D

Too funny, I saw that 'runner yesterday at Walmart, along with an orange 40. I didn't buy them though. It would have been too obvious they were for me and not my 1 year old daughter. :D

AxleIke
03-17-2011, 11:47 AM
So, this is my first verison of the 3link. I will have to tweak a few measurements I think, but this is where I have the axle now, and where I'm guessing the links will sit. I have to check clearance here, but for a first stab, I like the numbers.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/threelink.jpg

Still have to check on the COG, but I think that is fairly close.

Its looking like 22" at the frame will have to do, though I may be able to sneak it down to 21. However, I'm looking at it, and I think a 2 piece front driveshaft may be needed. I see no way to make the driveshaft clear everything when flexing with the one piece. It also will make a belly pan much easier to install.

Rezarf
03-17-2011, 12:02 PM
Wow, that looks like cool software. I would have to use a set of these to get the same effect... :hill: :thumb:

http://24hours7days.com/Puzzles/hPuzzles/PickUp_Sticks_6480.jpg

nakman
03-17-2011, 12:47 PM
Is there a reason to have the lower links mount at the same spot on the frame? vs. having them run more perpendicular to the axles and mount further apart? I am thinking further apart means one less thing next to the driveshaft, but I really don't know what I'm talking about that why I'm askin' :)

AxleIke
03-17-2011, 01:51 PM
The reason for triangulating the lowers is to lower the roll axis angle below zero. They do not need to be that close, but since I have to build a crossmember that is removeable anyway, I might as well go as triangulated as I can.

The reason to keep the roll axis negative is to achieve understeer on the axle. This provides a much nicer on road ride, as with oversteer, the truck will wander on the road. I guess you can look at it as resistance to steering the truck as the suspension moves. Oversteer means that the axle will help steer the truck when it moves, IE a bump or rounding a corner, vs understeer, which will resist turning. This means as you go around a corner, the truck will not steer as tight as it would with a neutral suspension, or under-steer the corner. The up side is, bumps, road irregularities, or even accelleration/decelleration will not cause the truck to move, so you get a nice, "true" driving condition.

nakman
03-17-2011, 03:31 PM
very cool explanation, thanks! :beer2:

AxleIke
03-17-2011, 03:52 PM
very cool explanation, thanks! :beer2:

No problem! ;)

AxleIke
03-26-2011, 07:39 PM
Today I spent A LONG time measuring, remeasuring, adjusting, then remeasuring, double checking, etc...

The result: The axle is positioned under the truck. WB is 110. 22 " frame height at ride height. Caster is at a *rough* 3 degrees. That will be adjusted finally when the truck is done, at a shop.

Then, I welded it to the frame with scrap. Well, strong tack welds.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4682.jpg

Then, I put the driver hub together, and mounted a tire to check for clearance, and just to get a feel for how things will look. Even stuck a CO in there to look at where I've tenatively placed link mounts in the calculator, and see how CO fits around the other junk.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4683.jpg

The shock is at 1/2 travel in this pic. Ultimately, it will come down a bit, with hopefully a 60/40 down/up ratio.

Here is where the tire sits:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4684.jpg

Approach will be halfway decent:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4686.jpg

Floor shot to show the total drop. About 4.5"

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4685.jpg

My garage is short, I wanted to get a front shot, but this is about all I got. At full lock, the tire will hit that front body mount, so off they come.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4688.jpg

After that I started measuring out and designed the brackets for the lower link crossmember. Tomorrow, I'll cut them out and get that mounted into the truck. Then finalize the numbers in the calculator, check that things fit, and start building link mounts.

J Kimmel
03-26-2011, 09:14 PM
getting there :)

AxleIke
03-26-2011, 10:07 PM
Yeah, trying.

Rezarf
03-26-2011, 10:36 PM
You are on track man, keep measuring and measuring then when you think you have it right measure again and then again. Repeat. Pull out your hair over the details. Then at some point... go for it! :D

Looking really good man.

AxleIke
03-28-2011, 11:20 PM
Super frustrating finale to the weekend. Spent a bunch of time on wedding things, and misc house work that ate into truck time.

Also, managed to fry a GFCI box by overloading the circuit. Turns out, these things are POS's. Ah well, took me FOREVER to figure that out, but once I did, I was back in action.

I picked up a new air compressor, as the craftsman was putting out tons of water= quick destruction of electrodes and tips on the plasma= no go. Got a 30 gal belt drive, and a better drier. MUCH BETTER, and much quieter.

I also picked up Miller's new Mobile Arcstation. This thing is sweet. Great welding table with notches for clamps, and folds up to fit into an already over stuffed garage:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4700.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4701.jpg


Yesterady I got all of the old xmember brackets cut off, as well as the torsion bar mounts. Took a long time, and managed to get a nice slag burn through my double wall carharts, just below where my leather's stop. That resulted in some clenched teeth and hopping around (on my back) , which resulted in a smack of the head into the transfercase output, which resulted in howling and cursing. Not one of my finest moments, but, alas, I topped it today.

Anyway, after I got everything cut off and gouged out, I only had a few minutes of grinding, and then a few minutes with a stripping disk to clean the frame.

Today I got my invitations addressed (amazingly there are now INNER envelopes to label. And I thought cars had a lot of parts. I do what I'm told.).

I ALSO got my frame plates cut out, and the crossmember brackets made up. Now I need to position everything, and drill the brackets and crossmember:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4699.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4707.jpg

All 1/4". They will be further braced and gusseted later.

I've been practicing a bit. Still need to get stand off control down. I move the arc in and and out too much.

Here are a few of the sorta better ones:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4706.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4704.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4705.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4703.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4702.jpg

I mentioned that I topped the back dance/head smack today. I lit myself on fire. Yep. I was tacking things into place under the truck and focusing on keeping the measurements correct, when I started to feel warm. I ignored it. Then I started to feel hot. I thought I was too close to my halogen work lamp, so I lifted up my helmet, and realized that my left hip was on fire. I got it out, but it burned through my carharts, the pocket and blackened my boxer shorts. WAY to close to the family jewels for comfort, and it looks like a nice sunburn now.

Note to self: WEAR LEATHERS EVEN IF TACKING THINGS INTO PLACE.

So, a sucky weekend with not much done and two painful incidents.

J Kimmel
03-29-2011, 06:13 AM
you're getting better :)

I look through my truck and there are some older not so good welds and they get better as I go :)

AxleIke
03-29-2011, 09:44 AM
Thanks.

rover67
03-29-2011, 10:41 AM
I hate that feeling of catching on fire. Cotton tends to smolder and be hard to put out sometimes.

That welding table looks pretty slick....

I am excited to see you making the new brackets, it looks like a lot of fun. Good work!

AxleIke
03-29-2011, 12:01 PM
Thanks Marco! It just takes time. I have to sit there and measure a hundred times, then adjust things a bit, and then re adjust and so forth. Then re measure and tack, Then remeasure. That, and I had the mill scale from hell. NOTHING short of a 60 grit flap disk would take that crap off, not even the stripping disks. The flap disk had a few issues even. I was pissed.

The new table is, honestly, one of the better things I've ever gotten. It is SO easy, and so stable, I love it. It is very easy to clamp to, and once I get the clamps for the notches, It will be even better.

Rezarf
03-30-2011, 09:07 AM
Looking good Isaac. Your welds look really good, maybe just a little more heat to get them to sink in a bit more. Otherwise they look great and will be plenty strong. Sorry to hear of lighting yourself on fire! WOW, be careful, make sure you have some good fire extinguishers handy too.

That table is sweet! Is it steady with heavy loads? I may have to look into something like that. Like you said, space is a premium!

Keep it up, looks good.

rover67
03-30-2011, 09:53 AM
why are you worried about getting the mill scale off? I usually just make sure the steel is clean and weld right to it.. maybe I'm doing it wrong.

AxleIke
03-30-2011, 11:08 AM
The table is extremely stable. I haven't tested it much yet though. I got a BIG discount on it due to General Air messing up a bunch of stuff in an order. They retail at close to 300.

Marco, the mill scale just adds contamination from what I've read. I doubt you are doing it wrong, I just stink at welding, so the cleaner I can get stuff, the better for me. I need all the help I can get.

Rezarf
04-01-2011, 08:51 AM
why are you worried about getting the mill scale off? I usually just make sure the steel is clean and weld right to it.. maybe I'm doing it wrong.

I have always scuffed it at least to get to the shiny stuff. I didn't know that you could welll without it being cleaned off?

RockRunner
04-01-2011, 10:20 AM
The new table is, honestly, one of the better things I've ever gotten. It is SO easy, and so stable, I love it. It is very easy to clamp to, and once I get the clamps for the notches, It will be even better.

Isaac where did you get the table and if you don't mind me asking........how much. I woul dlove to get something like that.

AxleIke
04-01-2011, 11:30 AM
Tom, I got it at General Air on Zuni. It runs 250 retail. I got a big discount because they messed up a bunch of stuff for me, (bad tank, wrong plasma parts, busted torch nozzle).

AxleIke
04-17-2011, 11:26 PM
Blaugh.

I got a bunch done this weekend, mostly undoing, but some new doing.

Figured out that the old xmember was going to have to go. Shorter links with more triangulation wasn't going to fit, as the driveshaft would simply not work.

Two piece driveshaft would leave the front so short that at full droop, the cv would bind, and 800 for HAD parts isn't in the budget.

One piece driveshaft would hit the links during droop, due to the difference in length.

Moving the links out clears the driveshaft, but puts my roll axis too far positive.

Solution? Move em back. Running the links just in front of the front output on the tcase.

LONG links, but gives some better numbers than the short ones, and keeps things out of the driveshaft. I do have some positive roll axis, but I should be able to counteract that with the rear links, by going a little extra negative.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/New3link.png

Then I realized that I didn't have enough 1/4" plate to finish my crossmember, so I started working on some brackets. Using my new SWAG circle cutter, and a straight edge, not too bad for a first go.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4709.jpg

Once I get some more plate, I will be able to finish the new crossmember, and start putting in the links.

rover67
04-18-2011, 08:12 AM
Remember that I have lots of random steel and am just down the street from ya. I have 1/4 plate X 3" I think and maybe some other stuff.

The brackets look nice man, good work. And nice work on formulating and reformulating!

AxleIke
04-18-2011, 08:51 AM
Good to know Marco, I'll have to swing by and see what you have. Thanks!

AxleIke
04-24-2011, 08:55 PM
Had a fairly productive weekend. I picked up a 4'x4' piece of 1/4" plate, which I can barely lift, but managed to get situated on my floor so I could cut pieces from it.

I then began building the rear crossmember of my subframe. It will bolt to the frame using 1/2" hardware, through the frame.

This took almost the whole weekend, but it was worth it. I built two frame attachment brackets, and then tacked this monster up:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4710.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4711.jpg

I know it isn't the best form to grind welds smooth, but I needed good, flat surfaces to mount brackets and the like to, so I smoothed everything out to keep it easy to weld brackets to. I beveled all the edges, so the welds sat in nice and deep, giving me plenty of weld left to hold everything together.

Here it is under the truck:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4713.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4714.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4716.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4717.jpg

My dilemma is whether or not to sleeve the frame. On the one hand, it will keep the frame from having any issues with compression from the bolts, but I think the 1/4" plate will take care of that. Because of the flush mount on the brackets holding this thing down, I will need to smooth out any welding done, meaning that the lateral strength of the sleeves won't be that good. I've got some reading to do.

Uncle Ben
04-24-2011, 10:43 PM
Thats awesome!

AxleIke
04-24-2011, 10:57 PM
Thanks!

Red_Chili
04-25-2011, 08:07 AM
Nice Fab. IMHO sleeve it. Obviously the horse collar is going away giving yet another reason?

rover67
04-25-2011, 08:39 AM
That looks great... no worries about strength!

AxleIke
04-25-2011, 09:10 AM
Nice Fab. IMHO sleeve it. Obviously the horse collar is going away giving yet another reason?

That is where I'm leaning. I need to figure out how that is going to work.

I don't understand what you mean by the horse collar part. Another reason? The horse collar is going to be cut out. Another crossmember will be welded in.

AxleIke
04-25-2011, 09:10 AM
That looks great... no worries about strength!

That is my hope! Thanks!

AxleIke
05-02-2011, 11:04 PM
Lots of work, not much to show for it.

Got the frame drilled, and sleeved. That took a long time. Getting everything lined up properly, and then getting the bolts to go through. Takes forever.

Picked up a second grinder to avoid having to undo disks to change what I'm doing. I also started using a 7" flap disk on my grinder. I LOVE it. Those big flap disks last a LOT longer, and really rip through material when you need to.

Got the crossmember welded to the frame brackets. Starting to get a bit better on some of the welds. Some are less consistent than others.

Here's a better one:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4721.jpg

After that, I got the front mounts welded up, and tacked up to the frame. I then cut out, and began working on, connecting pieces, that will form the subframe. The lower front link mounts will tie into the front of these (which is why they are hanging down), and the skid plate will attach to all of this, and the transfercase mounts.

Couple of shots of where it sits:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4718.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4720.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4730.jpg

And a shot of how things are starting to look underneath the frame. Not a flat belly, but should be plenty smooth for sliding over stuff.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4731.jpg

AxleIke
06-25-2011, 06:05 PM
Back at it again after a month or so.

Anyway, I started mocking up my links. And, figured out that I was going to have to change the design a bit again.

Anyway, here is how things are going:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/DSCN0956.jpg

I've tried two different set ups on the passenger side and driver side. One is higher than the axle center line, the other just lower. Obviously, the higher gives better roll axis numbers, but they still aren't great.

Driver side:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/DSCN0958.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/DSCN0957.jpg

Passenger side:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/DSCN0959.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/DSCN0960.jpg

Obviously, either way will require a frame notch. I think I can make that work pretty well.

This is where the upper sits. It should clear the motor mount/motor when flexed, but we'll see.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/DSCN0961.jpg

Anyway, some more pondering to do.

This is the calculator for a set up with the driverside dimensions:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/threelinkmockup.jpg

The panhard here isn't correct, but just put in there. The actual numbers will come once I get the steering box figured out. Hopefully some of that tomorrow.

Rezarf
06-25-2011, 09:41 PM
Welcome back Isaac! Looking good my man. You gotta' a whole lotta' work done on that thing already, you will be wheeling in no time.

Jacket
06-26-2011, 05:24 AM
Indeed - welcome back. Are those tests you're running at ride height, or are you checking for clearance at compression and/or droop?

AxleIke
06-26-2011, 09:57 AM
Welcome back Isaac! Looking good my man. You gotta' a whole lotta' work done on that thing already, you will be wheeling in no time.

Well, at least hopefully by next season. :(

AxleIke
06-26-2011, 09:58 AM
Indeed - welcome back. Are those tests you're running at ride height, or are you checking for clearance at compression and/or droop?

No, that is the hoped for ride height. We'll see how that works, but I'd like to keep it that way.

AxleIke
06-26-2011, 10:24 PM
Today sucked, and was kinda good. It sucked in that I figured out that my frame is tweaked up front. Just a bit on the passenger side. However, given that I have to notch the frame for the links, and the IFS frames kinda suck, I am giving some serious thought to chopping the frame just rearward of the firewall body mount and using tube (probably 2x3) for the front.

I spent a lot of time measuring today, and decided I need a second person to be sure. But something is off.

I'm also trying to figure out how to mount my steering box. Currently, if I use an FJ80 box, It will want to sit directly over the axle= bad for compression travel.

A shorter pitman arm would do the trick, but I'm still trying to wrap my head around how that will affect my turning radius.

Anyway, I decided I needed to think for a while.

I did take off my pitman arm, and reverse it to simulate an FJ80 box. Then put in a PVC drag link, and panhard rod after that.

Sorry, pictures will have to wait, camera was dead.

This is the updated calculator:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/threelinkwsteering.jpg

AxleIke
07-02-2011, 03:17 PM
DETOUR!!!

It turns out that IFS frames are great for keeping IFS trucks low, but NOT good for keeping the truck low with a solid axle. It is doable, but requires some sacrifices that I don't want to do.

So, thankfully, I was able to borrow Drew's engine hoist, and with some work of the plasma cutter, sawzall, and grinder, I went from this:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4904.jpg

To this:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4905.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4906.jpg

In a couple of labor intensive hours.

So i have a new sculpture in my garage:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4907.jpg

I hope to have the new frame built over the rest of the weekend, but I know that there are some large, unforseen, obstacles that will undoubtedly show up and put me further behind.

Rezarf
07-02-2011, 05:07 PM
Dude, you're in it now! HOT DANG!

I have that stick of .120" 2x3 if you need it over a holiday weekend. It is destined to be sliders at some point, but I can get another if it'd help you bud.

OR...

You could mount a single Super swamper up front and have the only 4Runner trike on the planet! I mean AWESOME!

Mendocino
07-02-2011, 08:31 PM
Impressive Issac. Nice progression.:thumb:

AxleIke
07-03-2011, 12:12 AM
Dude, you're in it now! HOT DANG!

I have that stick of .120" 2x3 if you need it over a holiday weekend. It is destined to be sliders at some point, but I can get another if it'd help you bud.

OR...

You could mount a single Super swamper up front and have the only 4Runner trike on the planet! I mean AWESOME!

I got some 2x3 at the steel yard. I need .250 wall anyway. 120 is what my frame was originally, which is not thick enough to mount brackets too without plating.

Thanks though!

AxleIke
07-03-2011, 12:12 AM
Impressive Issac. Nice progression.:thumb:

Thanks!

farnhamstj
07-03-2011, 08:42 AM
Keep up the good work.

Cheese
07-03-2011, 09:20 AM
Sweet Baby James!

Good work and great commitment. Congratulations on the wedding too.

Keep up the good work.

AxleIke
07-03-2011, 11:25 PM
Sweet Baby James!

Good work and great commitment. Congratulations on the wedding too.

Keep up the good work.

Whoa! Celebrity showing! Thanks man!

RockRunner
07-04-2011, 10:46 AM
Well you have done it now, the point of no return. Waiting to see what you come up with next.

AxleIke
07-05-2011, 09:25 AM
I got the front part of the frame cut out and welded up. I forgot the camera today, so I'll post pics this evening.

I'm hoping to work on it this week as well. Got permission from the wife to leave her car outside this week, so that is a great help (set up and clean up take a lot of time. If I can just take over her side, I can get more done in the evenings).

I think the hardest part is ensuring it sits roughly at the same angle as the rest of the frame. Thank goodness for digital gauges!

AxleIke
07-05-2011, 09:21 PM
Here is the short progress I made yesterday.

This is essentially the new frame from the firewall forward. The cross piece of 1x1 is just to hold the whole thing square during welding.

This is the same width as stock, but will be around 3-4" higher than the original (depending on what part you measure from, the stock frame is curved.)

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4914.jpg

Here are my welds. I feel like I'm getting better, but I am still having issues with getting a very consistant electrode stick-out. I wander a bit in and out, which makes, I think, for the the slight irregularities in the bead. I also seem to be better at welding longer sections, on the inside of a joint, rather than on the outside seam.

Here, the center, front piece, was beveled at as close to 45 on all sides, and was set back just slightly from the front to give an adequate weld surface for my rather newb technique. The side pieces were simply prepped to bare metal with a prep disk, and wiped off clean with a towel.

The slight "shine" you see is my anti-spatter spray. I don't know what exactly I'm doing wrong, but I get TONS of spatter, and with 1/4", the welder is as high up as it goes. Wire speed adjustment seems to get me nowhere. The spray makes it manageable after you hit the welded areas with a wire wheel/brush.

I'm currently using the circle, pause, circle technique, where I am pushing the puddle, I make a circle/oval up the seam on one piece, curve through the seam, back into the other piece, and back to essentially the center of the circle. Then, pause, then move forward with the next. Its more like a swirl motion, so the bead moves along. Part of the issue is that I'm not yet hitting circles, and I generally sit more on the oval side.

Critique's welcome.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4909.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4908.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4910.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4912.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4913.jpg

J Kimmel
07-06-2011, 06:52 AM
looking much better! slow down a bit more and focus on your puddle, sometimes a new clean lense will help with that (I've put new ones on before and its like, "holy sh*t I can see")

also my welder generates much more spatter when its up higher.


snow run 2013!

Red_Chili
07-06-2011, 08:52 AM
Looks like more dwell would improve penetration a bit? Prettier than almost all of mine though. :lmao:
Dunno about a circle technique, my thought is, an almost closed C with slightly more dwell on the edge than the middle?
I am a complete noob though, so take all that with about a pound and a half of salt.

VERY impressive project!

AxleIke
07-06-2011, 09:45 AM
looking much better! slow down a bit more and focus on your puddle, sometimes a new clean lense will help with that (I've put new ones on before and its like, "holy sh*t I can see")

also my welder generates much more spatter when its up higher.


snow run 2013!

LOL! I hope to be done before snow run 2013, but I'll make that a goal! :D

I change my lenses pretty frequently, as I had the same issue a while back, and couldn't see, but didn't really think about the lens. Then I got a burn right in the middle, changed the lens, and was like WHOA!!

On another forum someone mentioned that my gas pressure may be too high, which I know it is, but never thought it could affect spatter. I'm going to try turning it down a bit, but good to know that even bigger machines spatter when up high.

Looks like more dwell would improve penetration a bit? Prettier than almost all of mine though. :lmao:
Dunno about a circle technique, my thought is, an almost closed C with slightly more dwell on the edge than the middle?
I am a complete noob though, so take all that with about a pound and a half of salt.

VERY impressive project!

Thanks Bill,

The circle techniqe I got as a tip from some pro welders on the Miller welding forum. They said the C's are good as well, its just preference. I can't, for the life of me, figure out how to make the C's work, so I am trying this technique. Triangles also appears to be an approved method. I think my speed is a hair fast, and again, I'm having issues with stickout.

I may also try pulling the puddle rather than pushing.

Red_Chili
07-06-2011, 11:21 AM
I may also try pulling the puddle rather than pushing.
Ah... missed that. Yeah, I find pushing rarely works for me. I guess I kinda unthinkingly pull... like I said, I am a know-nothing.

(In my own defense, my welds have hardly ever failed unless I simply wasn't paying attention and left a mechanical vulnerability that propagated. Even then, it was the base metal that failed.)

AxleIke
07-06-2011, 11:42 AM
Ah... missed that. Yeah, I find pushing rarely works for me. I guess I kinda unthinkingly pull... like I said, I am a know-nothing.

(In my own defense, my welds have hardly ever failed unless I simply wasn't paying attention and left a mechanical vulnerability that propagated. Even then, it was the base metal that failed.)

Hey, I'm far more newb that you, so I'm glad for advice. Thanks!

rover67
07-06-2011, 02:12 PM
i kinda like pushing the puddle a bit more than pulling on a lower power machine. Although your hand gets hotter since it's over the weld, it seems to preheat the material a bit better i feel like.

It looks like you are moving kinda fast, and in big jumps, maybe slow it down a bit and take smaller bites??

Is the machine set at maxed out already?

AxleIke
07-06-2011, 03:32 PM
Yeah, its maxed on power, and at 70% on wire speed.

Rezarf
07-06-2011, 09:03 PM
I would say the same thing as Marco, in that you might tighten up the circular motion and not cover as much ground so fast. However, it looks like they are sinking in fine to the base metal and that's what counts! :D

I'm stoked to see this one come together.

Jacket
07-08-2011, 03:12 PM
You could just buy this one and be done already. ;)

http://boulder.craigslist.org/cto/2450863909.html

AxleIke
07-09-2011, 12:04 AM
Holy cow. Some days it is sad to be a mini truck owner and be associated with things like that.

AxleIke
07-09-2011, 12:21 AM
Spent a bunch of time running around today, but did get some work done.

I also spent a bunch of time on the belt sander. Takes forever, but gets good, clean angles. Wish I had something better than I do, but it works.

Anyway, just starting to mock things in place. The first thing I did was cap the ends of the frame with some 1/4" plate. I practiced some welds going vertical and overhead before trying this. They came out okay. The issue I had was that my practice welds were 1/4 to 1/4, and this was 1/4 to 1/8. Here is how they came out:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4915.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4916.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4917.jpg

Anyway, I'm not too worried about them because after the new frame is in place, all weld joints will be getting plated over.

I am still fighting angles and getting the main frame mocked up with connection pieces to the old. I seriously need a second me to hold the tape, and help think through this.

Here is where I ended up this evening:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4918.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4919.jpg

Hopefully better progress tomorrow.

Rezarf
07-09-2011, 01:27 PM
It looks like good progress bud. Sometimes getting everything to line up is a pain in the booty... take your time, decide whats best and go for it. If you flub up a measurement here or there, no worries, metal can always be scrapped off and put back again.

FWIW, it's looking good!

Rezarf
07-10-2011, 06:43 PM
Where's the update bump? ;)

AxleIke
07-10-2011, 07:23 PM
LOL. Spent most of yesterday re-measureing and re-cutting and re-sanding all the angles. Even though the belt sander is slow, it does get the correct angles very nicely.

So, I got the drop sections of the frame welded up:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4925.jpg

And I worked on slowing down my travel speed, but, IMO, the welds seem worse. Still structurally sound, but not "stacking" as I would prefer. The only thing that got ugly was when I went to try triple pass welds on on the bottom side. First one layed in the beveled area nicely, but it was too deep, so I welded one pass on the one side, and then a third on the other, and it came out crappy. :confused:

Anyway, a couple shots:

Sides:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4924.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4923.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4920.jpg

And the multi pass garbage:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4922.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4921.jpg

AxleIke
07-10-2011, 07:24 PM
Today was my brother's in law birthday so I did not get anything done in the garage.

Rezarf
07-10-2011, 09:07 PM
You know I am just kidding you bud. You got more done than I did.

Are you cleaning the welds between the passes on the 3 pass? On the few multi-passes I have done, when I took the time to reclean all the welds and steel again, they seemed to lay down better.

AxleIke
07-12-2011, 10:04 PM
Drew, great thought on the multipass welds. I did not re-clean.

Tonight brought the suck.

Started out by getting ready to cut out cover plates for all the welded sections. Managed to be stupid, and, while not wearing gloves, sliced the crap out of my right pinky, right on the bottom of the knuckle. Took 2 hours for it to completely stop bleeding, and it hurts.

I did get two plates cut, however, before my hand was throbbing too bad and I was getting distracted when cutting. Cleaned up and came in, and sat my butt on the couch.

Not the first time this project has drawn blood, but the worst so far. Made quite a mess on my garage floor.

rover67
07-12-2011, 11:30 PM
looks like the wire speed is too fast now.

may want to slow the wire speed down quite a bit. I think that machine just needs more time to get heat in the metal.

Bummer about the finger... I hate it when stuff like that happens. Hopefully it gets better soon.

Rezarf
07-12-2011, 11:57 PM
Sorry about your finger bud, did you zap it with the grinder or something else? Bummer bro! Sometimes you gotta' step away and clear your head. Heal up good... don't rush it.

AxleIke
07-13-2011, 08:19 AM
No grinder.

I am using a piece of scrap 1x1 to hold things square while I weld up the frame. There was a tack weld from the first weld up that I ground out to remove the piece. The way I ground it, it made a knife edge, which I sliced myself with.

AxleIke
07-16-2011, 05:01 PM
I have a front frame again! Well, almost. I need to overlap the joint between the original frame and the new frame, but the measurement and double checking is finally done.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4926.jpg

This is actually about 5" longer than the original frame. This is to accomodate a winch mount in front of the radiator.

Shot of the other joint overlap plates. I was experimenting with a couple different techinques, and I think, finally got what I wanted.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4927.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4931.jpg

Here are a couple shots of the tripple pass welds I made, this time cleaning out the joints in between. These are vertical welds.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4928.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4929.jpg

Here is one of the ones with the techinque that I like, that I made on the bench. IMO, a bit better

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4930.jpg

Red_Chili
07-18-2011, 10:09 AM
VERY nice.

AxleIke
07-18-2011, 10:37 AM
Thanks!

nakman
07-18-2011, 10:45 AM
Wow, nice work, you're ready to start welding pressure vessels and mountain bike frames now. :bowdown: :weld:

AxleIke
07-18-2011, 12:33 PM
Oh, still not that good, LOL. Working on it though.

rover67
07-18-2011, 12:49 PM
looking good man!

AxleIke
07-18-2011, 02:41 PM
Thanks Marco!

Rezarf
07-18-2011, 07:13 PM
That looks great Isaac! The welds are looking really nice and clean too.

I think the idea to plan for a winch up front is perfect. Nothing like a blank canvas to work with. How much frame "clearance" did you gain? Looks like a lot compared to your previous shots.

AxleIke
07-18-2011, 10:27 PM
That looks great Isaac! The welds are looking really nice and clean too.

I think the idea to plan for a winch up front is perfect. Nothing like a blank canvas to work with. How much frame "clearance" did you gain? Looks like a lot compared to your previous shots.

because the old frame was curved, it depends on where you measure from. But, from the highest point on the old frame, 3". More elsewhere.

Rezarf
07-19-2011, 08:22 AM
because the old frame was curved, it depends on where you measure from. But, from the highest point on the old frame, 3". More elsewhere.

WOW! :eek:

Thats a big improvement! I am really impressed with your "get after it" mentality and take no prisoners approach at this thing! :thumb:

DaveInDenver
07-19-2011, 09:07 AM
thats A Big Improvement!

You can really see the difference comparing the two frame horns against engine parts. Tons of work, looks good.

I'd be concerned about the old/new junction being strong enough, although time will tell. It's a pretty abrupt joint and aren't they in shear from the engine torque? I dunno, Marco, Bruce, wouldn't you want to lap the joint more? OTOH 3 passes probably guarantees full penetration on the welds, so 40% of base metal is still very high strength.

24396 24397

rover67
07-19-2011, 10:24 AM
I was assuming that Isaac was going to add some more to the old to new frame junction....

Red_Chili
07-19-2011, 10:37 AM
The weakest aspect of the junction would have to be the thin stock frame... any twisting or flex will be concentrated at the transition. But then, much force will already be moved back ... somehow I think Isaac has considered this.

Isaac, I must say I am becoming persuaded... lol.

AxleIke
07-19-2011, 11:53 AM
Dave, et al, you are absolutely correct, that is the weak point, and thus the reason the engine is still hanging.

FWIW, in the second picture, the engine is SEVERAL inches higher than it will be once its in. I will likely move it up a bit from where it was, but not a ton. I want to keep COG as low as is feasible.

The frame is not done yet. The joint will be plated over with 1/4" plate, the same as the other joints, both inside and out. Another piece of tube will be sectioned to make an upper brace across the joint, and the part of the original frame that hangs down will be cut at an angle, and plated across as well. That is the biggest risk of failure, so it will be plated to overkill.

I have just had a couple of house projects on the honey do list that must be completed before any more truck work can be completed, and I am trying to get into the high country for some camping and hiking this weekend. So, it will be a bit before I can finish the plating.

AxleIke
07-19-2011, 11:55 AM
WOW! :eek:

Thats a big improvement! I am really impressed with your "get after it" mentality and take no prisoners approach at this thing! :thumb:

Well, it comes from the last build. I compromised on things to both limit the work, and get it done faster, and I hated every compromise I made. This will take a long time, but it will be what I want in the end.

AxleIke
07-19-2011, 11:57 AM
Isaac, I must say I am becoming persuaded... lol.

:D:D:D Uh oh!!!

Rezarf
07-22-2011, 08:29 AM
Isaac, I must say I am becoming persuaded... lol.

To quote a wise sage in my signature line, Bill... you are just a sawzall away from nirvana! :D:lmao:

AxleIke
07-22-2011, 11:11 PM
I did use a sawzall on the frame. Too much stuff for the plasma to get through inside the frame to use it. They have some sort of stiffening plate in there.

Rezarf
07-24-2011, 08:25 PM
How'd it go this weekend bud?

AxleIke
07-24-2011, 08:34 PM
I did not work on it this weekend. Spent Friday tuning up the corolla, and fighting with that, then went up into the high country to camp with the new Rav. Even took it "wheeling"....LOL.

It did quite well over minor rocks and such, for an SUV. I could have done it in 2wd in my 4 runner, but not bad nonetheless.

Rezarf
07-29-2011, 07:40 PM
I had to take a double take at this one, I thought you might have finished! :D

http://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=542730&stc=1&d=1311912089

AxleIke
07-30-2011, 01:17 AM
I had to take a double take at this one, I thought you might have finished! :D

http://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=542730&stc=1&d=1311912089

Ouch....I didn't know you thought so little of my craftsmanship.

Should be some work done tomorrow. Nothing exciting, just plating and bracing the new frame.

Rezarf
07-30-2011, 11:02 PM
Ouch....I didn't know you thought so little of my craftsmanship.

Should be some work done tomorrow. Nothing exciting, just plating and bracing the new frame.

Sorry bud, it wasn't a knock... I just had flashbacks of the yakima rack and a silver 4runner.

I know your stuff will be awesome! FWIW, whats wrong with the one pictured? Mind you, I have clue zero about a SAS.

nakman
08-09-2011, 10:07 PM
Hey Isaac, not sure what I was doing in the FJC section in the first place but I saw this thread and thought of you for some reason. Not even close to the same project.. but the guy's plates over joints are similar to some of what you've done. And some of those welds are just crazy nice looking.. thought you'd like it. :cheers: :weld:

http://forum.ih8mud.com/fj-cruiser/473606-3-link-currie-rear-axle-rear-coilovers-long-travel-ifs-fjc-build-more.html

AxleIke
08-10-2011, 09:10 AM
Hey Isaac, not sure what I was doing in the FJC section in the first place but I saw this thread and thought of you for some reason. Not even close to the same project.. but the guy's plates over joints are similar to some of what you've done. And some of those welds are just crazy nice looking.. thought you'd like it. :cheers: :weld:

http://forum.ih8mud.com/fj-cruiser/473606-3-link-currie-rear-axle-rear-coilovers-long-travel-ifs-fjc-build-more.html

NICE Tim! I didn't see where he plated the frame at all, but I may have missed it. But yeah, he has some good looking welds!

It sure would be nice to have a shop like that, and the tools to create things that quickly, as well as a second set of hands. My guess is that guy is a pro fabricator, and he has other pro's working with him.

Guess I need a team, a shop, and a money tree :D:D:D:D!

AxleIke
08-10-2011, 09:14 AM
Sorry bud, it wasn't a knock... I just had flashbacks of the yakima rack and a silver 4runner.

I know your stuff will be awesome! FWIW, whats wrong with the one pictured? Mind you, I have clue zero about a SAS.

Nothing in particular is WRONG with it, but its cookie cutter. There isn't any problem with that, in fact, its a great way to go, but its not my style.

That swap was bought out of a catalog, and probably done in a weekend or two.

The only issue I see with that is that it is tall and narrow. Personally, I do not like that look, and it does have disadvantages when off camber.

I guess what I meant was that I am not spending all this time and effort to end up with something that looks like everyone elses truck.

I hope that the finished product here will end up fairly unique.

AxleIke
08-10-2011, 09:20 AM
I did get some work done two weekends ago, and got the driver side plated over. In order to make certain that this is bomb proof, I'm going to bend up some tube, probably .250 wall HREW, but maybe .125, to fit the top of the frame, and essentially "go over" the junction, and up to the front, to make a continuous piece. However, that will happen AFTER the suspension is hung, and the steering is on, just to be certain that I don't end up having to do things twice...

I hope to do some work this weekend.

Red_Chili
08-10-2011, 09:52 AM
Nothing in particular is WRONG with it, but its cookie cutter. There isn't any problem with that, in fact, its a great way to go, but its not my style.

That swap was bought out of a catalog, and probably done in a weekend or two.
HEY! I resemble that remark...

:lmao:

AxleIke
08-10-2011, 10:53 AM
It wasn't meant to offend. Its just not my style like I said. It works great, its cerainly a lot less headache, and its proven. And there isn't anything wrong with it.

Just not for me is all.

nakman
08-10-2011, 11:07 AM
NICE Tim! I didn't see where he plated the frame at all, but I may have missed it. But yeah, he has some good looking welds!


Here's a pic of the plates that reminded me of some of what you've done:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ034.jpg

But yeah, would be awesome to be able to weld like this huh, though I don't think you're that far off from this...

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/DaveatJaviersAutos/Brian%20FJ/BrianFJ013.jpg

Ok back to the regularly scheduled build thread.. :beer:

AxleIke
08-10-2011, 01:58 PM
Ah! Yeah, those are very nice.

Red_Chili
08-10-2011, 02:32 PM
It wasn't meant to offend.
None taken. Just saw an opportunity for a haha.

AxleIke
08-25-2011, 10:13 PM
Update on this:

The frame is welded in, and both sides are plated up. I'll post pics later.

I built a couple of temp engine mounts and tacked the engine in place. I also hoisted the whole thing up by the new frame. No movement at all. Its very strong now, and the tubing later will be the icing on the cake.

Lastly, I traded in the MM175 for a MM211. I need more power, and I'm tired of dealing with the older stuff.

Burned a couple welds on the Autoset feature this afternoon. LOVE IT. I hope to get the axle under and repositioned this weekend. And hopefully begin tacking in the links.

isotel
08-26-2011, 12:24 AM
i wish there was a "Like" Buttton for Post#191

Sorry i had not cought this thread earlier. Everthing looks sweet! Keep it up and we can go hit carnage in no time!!

How are you liking the Millermatic 211? I need to get a welder, and want one that will last a decade or 2!

AxleIke
08-26-2011, 10:22 AM
Thanks Trevor!

Well, All I did last night was take two 2x3x1/4 scraps I had from my frame build and weld them in a T joint. But, it was Awesome! I need to decide whether I like the autoset better or manual set, but the Auto set does work well. I think it would be particularly handy if you are working on something, and quickly want to set to a different material thickness, or for sheet metal work. The MVP plug also seems like a great thing, as I can use my 220 for most, but then go to 110 if I need to do something elsewhere, or on sheetmetal.

I'll let you know how it goes, I plan on getting some welding done this weekend.

AxleIke
08-28-2011, 10:24 PM
Back at it Saturday before a neighborhood wide power outtage ended my day early, Today was spent with the father in law, which is always a good time, so not a bad thing at all.

Over the last few weeks, I got the frame plated over the seam. I plan to add additional support once the front end is done, but I temp mounted the engine, and then lifted the front end with the cherry picker and there was zero deflection across the seam

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4933.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4934.jpg

I'm getting better on flat welding, but with how things were supported, a few of these were REALLY out of position, and very hard to see. I'd say this is pretty typical:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4935.jpg

After that, I decided that I wanted a bit more power, so I traded in the 175 an got a new 211.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4939.jpg

This weekend I got the axle re-located under the truck, and welded in place.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4936.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4937.jpg

I think this image will help show the difference in frame height. The axle is at the exact same height as before.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4678.jpg

I went from about 4" of uptravel (to the frame, so not actually something I could use) to 7.5". I may bring the axle up a bit still.

Lastly, I began working on actual link brackets, before the power went out. Getting these things mocked up is a challenge. I may re-do the short side's pictured here, as I believe I have a better design for the long sides.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4938.jpg

nakman
08-29-2011, 08:39 AM
Looking good, man.. so with the new welder, do the neighbors blame you for the power outage? :weld: :lmao:

AxleIke
08-29-2011, 09:14 AM
LOL! No, I thought it was me though, although I wasn't using the welder at the time. I was cutting out some other brackets and all of a sudden, the plasma, lights, and compressor shut off. I thought it was weird because its pretty rare for 3 circuits to blow all at once, so I went around and looked at the breaker for the whole house but nothing was tripped. Then I talked to a neighbor, and theirs was out too.

Ah well.

Jacket
08-29-2011, 10:21 AM
You need to make yourself a cart for that machine. ;)

Are you using staight CO2, or an Ar mix? Just curious....

rover67
08-29-2011, 10:30 AM
The welds are looking great man!!!! Looks like the machine is set really well!

I also like seeing the difference in frame height!

AxleIke
08-29-2011, 11:08 AM
You need to make yourself a cart for that machine. ;)

Are you using staight CO2, or an Ar mix? Just curious....

Yeah, I'd make a cart, but that just takes time away from the truck.

:D

The welds are looking great man!!!! Looks like the machine is set really well!

I also like seeing the difference in frame height!

Thanks man! But all those welds were done with the old welder. I haven't done much with the new one yet.

rover67
08-29-2011, 11:38 AM
Yeah, I'd make a cart, but that just takes time away from the truck.

:D



Thanks man! But all those welds were done with the old welder. I haven't done much with the new one yet.

even bigger props then, I think you've got it!

AxleIke
08-29-2011, 01:07 PM
Thanks!

Uncle Ben
08-29-2011, 03:53 PM
You need to make yourself a cart for that machine. ;)

Are you using staight CO2, or an Ar mix? Just curious....

Hard to make a cart as cheap as you can buy one at Taiwan Freight! (Harbor)

Rezarf
08-29-2011, 04:38 PM
Looking good man, I would love to give that new unit a test drive. Looks like a nice tool.

The frame clearance is uber nice. Looking good my man, whats your improved plan for the link mounts?

Drew

wesintl
08-29-2011, 04:42 PM
Looking good man, I would love to give that new unit a test drive. Looks like a nice tool.

:eek:

Rezarf
08-29-2011, 06:02 PM
:eek:

Hmmm, better word my post a little better than that.:o

AxleIke
08-29-2011, 09:39 PM
Hard to make a cart as cheap as you can buy one at Taiwan Freight! (Harbor)

The Harbor Freight stuff is no better than my rigged up furniture dolly and wooden tank holder. I'll build something when I feel like bending some tube and working on something besides the truck.

Looking good man, I would love to give that new unit a test drive. Looks like a nice tool.

The frame clearance is uber nice. Looking good my man, whats your improved plan for the link mounts?

Drew

Its no different usage wise than what you have. It just has more power.

My plan for the link mounts fell through. I don't like the new design either. I made the new mounts this evening, and I get the urge to barf a bit when I see them.

I'm re-doing them all, but first I'm going to work on the frameside mounts and get everything tacked up for final geometry measurements. Then I'll work on the aesthetics of the link mounts. I tried to put too many angles in these. While I like the extra shape, the gussets will end up looking like crap down the way.

I suppose you can say I'm going for function over form, but just barely.

AxleIke
08-29-2011, 09:41 PM
:eek:

Hmmm, better word my post a little better than that.:o

I'm kinda glad I missed this page at first.

Well played Wes, well played.

Drew, I knew what you meant. Only after this wise guy piped up did I see the issue with the first post.

I must be tired or blind LOL.

Probably a good thing.

Rezarf
08-31-2011, 09:47 AM
My plan for the link mounts fell through. I don't like the new design either. I made the new mounts this evening, and I get the urge to barf a bit when I see them.

I'm re-doing them all, but first I'm going to work on the frameside mounts and get everything tacked up for final geometry measurements. Then I'll work on the aesthetics of the link mounts. I tried to put too many angles in these. While I like the extra shape, the gussets will end up looking like crap down the way.

I suppose you can say I'm going for function over form, but just barely.

There is a hard balance between "get-r-done" and doing it right... once!

Sleep on it, take your time, once you are certain its the way to go, start chopping and welding. I would get stalled out on the trailer thinking how this or that would effect things 10 steps down the road. It looked like I was just sitting around when I was really trying to burn things in just once.

You've got good progress there bud, its looking nice! :thumb:

AxleIke
09-26-2011, 08:40 AM
Been plugging along slowly, but school has really set me back with time.

However, I got my knukles in and installed this weekend, along with continual messing around with my steering box.

These are Hellfire Fabrication's solution for FJ80 axles and Mini trucks. While these would work on an 80 series land cruiser, they would require some modification to the panhard bar, which does not seem to interest people.

Too bad really, because these are BEEF. These are cast, then machined, and the high steer arm is six stud, with a MUCH larger pattern than the original four, which means the studs take less abuse than in the stock form. The arms come with slugs so you can run your tie rod on the top or bottom, depending on your suspension choice.

THey are set up with the proper ackerman angle, or, if you want to run fill hydro, you can make use of the two outter holes to give a MUCH better turning radius than a mini truck.

Here are some pics:

The bare knukles with the arm installed:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4953.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4954.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4955.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4956.jpg

Next, you have to "modify" the old steering arms by cutting them down and smoothing them a bit with the grinder to create bearling caps.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4957.jpg

Next I spent a TON of time working on my old bottom studs: getting them out of the old knuckle, cleaning them, and then wire wheeling them. Got them installed into the new units fairly quickly.

Then starting putting the knuckle on the axle:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4958.jpg

All buttoned up

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4959.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4960.jpg

And then did the other side:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4961.jpg

Then I decided to see how things are looking, so I threw a tire and the fender on, to see where I'll need to do some trimming, and just get a handle on the stance:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4962.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4963.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4964.jpg

I've got my driver side brackets made, I need to finish up the passnger side, and get a tube notcher. Pretty close to being able to put in the actual links, and hard tack everything in.

Red_Chili
09-26-2011, 11:15 AM
Very nice. I assume you'll have more up travel?

rover67
09-26-2011, 11:18 AM
Holy Cow man, those knuckles look awesome!!!!

The rig is starting to look whole again!!! Nice work!

AxleIke
09-26-2011, 12:05 PM
Very nice. I assume you'll have more up travel?

Yeah, if you look above, I have 7.5 " to the frame where its at. I have 14" CO's, so I *could* run 7 up 7 down, but I think I will bump things down a bit and get something 5 or 5.5 up and 9 to 9.5 down. But, hard to say.

With the new knuckles, I can run the tie rod at least, under the arms, giving that much extra clearance. The drag link will still be a limiting factor as far as how far up I can go. That's part of the reason I'm thinking of a 5-5.5 up number, so that I can be sure to give lots of room for the steering.

AxleIke
09-26-2011, 12:08 PM
Holy Cow man, those knuckles look awesome!!!!

The rig is starting to look whole again!!! Nice work!

Thanks man! Yeah, the knuckles really are awesome. They were totally worth the wait. I just hope the company can stay in buisiness, because I think FJ80 outters are going to become the new standard in rock crawing with toyota running gear.

The bells are very close to D60 bells on the RCI CV conversion shafts for steering Dana 60's. I'd be curious to see Bobby Long put both a set of his 80 series longs and a Set of RCI D60 bells to the test on his axle breaking machine.

As for looking like a truck, that is one area I am totally excited about, yet totally stumped at the same time. As you see it, the fender is stock. Obviously, not going to work in that form, as the tire will contact the front lip on the fender within about 2" of tire travel.

However, I refuse to run a standard "flat cut fender", so I'm going to have to get creative with body work and tube work to keep it looking good, and still stay out of the way of the tires.

Uncle Ben
09-26-2011, 03:23 PM
Thanks man! Yeah, the knuckles really are awesome. They were totally worth the wait. I just hope the company can stay in buisiness, because I think FJ80 outters are going to become the new standard in rock crawing with toyota running gear.

The bells are very close to D60 bells on the RCI CV conversion shafts for steering Dana 60's. I'd be curious to see Bobby Long put both a set of his 80 series longs and a Set of RCI D60 bells to the test on his axle breaking machine.




The 80 Birfs are the strongest possible choice for Toyota based stuff but D60's still use 35 spline axles. 1.10" 30 spline cannot compete with 1.38" 35 spline or 1.63" 40 spine stuff!

Example....

1.10 (30 spline) material and yield strength.

1040 Carbon Steel (stock) 2,313 lbs/ft2
1050 Carbon 3,185
1541H Carbon 3,578
4340 Alloy (chromo) 4,582

1.38 (35 spline)

1040 4,557
1050 6,277
1541H 7,051
4340 9,029



That extra 1/4" nearly doubles the yield strength of the axle. So in short yes, you can get the CV joint close to the same strength but the axle will always be the weakest link due to size available.

AxleIke
09-26-2011, 04:06 PM
Which is why I said "with toyota running gear"

AFAIK, no one is making 35 spline stuff for the front of a toyota, even in the nether-worlds of genious fabricators needing stronger and stronger stuff.

Most guys rock crawling on toyota stuff have super light buggies with 22re's or the new 2.7's. Toy transfers don't hold up well to big tires and any more power than that. So 30 splines with 9.5's in the diffs with 80 bells would make a beefy drivetrain for a lightweight buggy w/out tons of horse power.

Lots cheaper too!

The 80 Birfs are the strongest possible choice for Toyota based stuff but D60's still use 35 spline axles. 1.10" 30 spline cannot compete with 1.38" 35 spline or 1.63" 40 spine stuff!

Example....

1.10 (30 spline) material and yield strength.

1040 Carbon Steel (stock) 2,313 lbs/ft2
1050 Carbon 3,185
1541H Carbon 3,578
4340 Alloy (chromo) 4,582

1.38 (35 spline)

1040 4,557
1050 6,277
1541H 7,051
4340 9,029



That extra 1/4" nearly doubles the yield strength of the axle. So in short yes, you can get the CV joint close to the same strength but the axle will always be the weakest link due to size available.

Uncle Ben
09-26-2011, 04:20 PM
Which is why I said "with toyota running gear"

AFAIK, no one is making 35 spline stuff for the front of a toyota, even in the nether-worlds of genious fabricators needing stronger and stronger stuff.

Most guys rock crawling on toyota stuff have super light buggies with 22re's or the new 2.7's. Toy transfers don't hold up well to big tires and any more power than that. So 30 splines with 9.5's in the diffs with 80 bells would make a beefy drivetrain for a lightweight buggy w/out tons of horse power.

Lots cheaper too!

No dispute! If you do the math, nothing should be able to withstand the torque multiplication that you mini truck guys are subjecting your drive-trains to! Im singleing out mini truck guys specifically due to your insane gearing. Wanna scare your wallet? Start multiplying your torque out! Dont forget to add in the 25 or higher percent for big tires as that directly affects the torque your axles are expected to operate! In a perfect world with 100 persent traction and 0 tire slippage 5 ton Rockwells would be challenged to those torque numbers! Love this stuff! :D :thumb::thumb::bowdown::wrench:

AxleIke
09-26-2011, 07:47 PM
Well, true, though there is a bit of torque lost through the inertia of all those gears, so you don't entirely get the straight through multiplication.

Its still a lot, but the other factors are: size of your tires, sprung and unsprung weight, and your driving style.

A stock 22re has like, what 80-100 ft lbs of torque at the flywheel, maybe?

Say 100 for ease of calculation. With no losses to inertia, the multiplication to the wheels is 20600 something foot lbs on a dual cased 4.88 geared truck with W56.

I never broke a 7.5" diff, or a CV axle with that set up, but, I KNEW that my axles and diffs had some weaknesses, and I drove accordingly.

That's why I think this will all work pretty well for me. I know how I drive, so I'm building a rig that fits that, and my budget.

But yeah, I'm with you. 40 spline stuff would be SUWHEET.

Then the build becomes too much a buggy, and loses too much of its roots. I may be a fool for pretending, but I like to think I'm keeping this truck's toyota roots while fixing some of the less appealing parts.

Maybe not.

Although, I must admit, I was trolling around for a 73 series today. Too bad they are all way, way out of my price range, and RHD.

Rezarf
09-27-2011, 09:19 AM
Wow, that is some good looking hardware! Those things just scream tough! Are you going to be going with a hydro setup?

Starting to look close... maybe its just seeing a wheel and fender on it, but what are the major steps before getting it out on the road/trail again?

Drew

AxleIke
09-27-2011, 09:27 AM
Wow, that is some good looking hardware! Those things just scream tough! Are you going to be going with a hydro setup?

Starting to look close... maybe its just seeing a wheel and fender on it, but what are the major steps before getting it out on the road/trail again?

Drew

Whooo boy, lets see...

Finish the front suspension links
get coilovers/engine cross bar made
figure out spring rates
figure out shock valving
figure out steering box
build engine mounts
build front clip
finish transmission and transfercase mounts
get my rear housing from Ruffstuff
link the rear
figure out coil rates for the rear
figure out shock valving for the rear
remove entire interior
lots of body work
build front, rear bumpers, sliders
paint
new interior
rebuild transfer case, transmisison (if there is money)

Rezarf
09-27-2011, 09:22 PM
oh... I see. So a few more weeks huh ;)

AxleIke
09-27-2011, 10:28 PM
Right now it looks like years.

I've got cheating students, boat loads of homework, a research project, and an old boss keeping my work and home hours too full to think straight. Couple that with a wife who hates this hobby, and things look grim.

But all that aside, I'll never give this up, so while the updates are slower, they'll still be coming :)

Red_Chili
09-28-2011, 07:00 AM
Couple that with a wife who hates this hobby, and things look grim.
That right there could be the most expensive part of the project. To extend the drivetrain metaphor... easy on the throttle there, Turbo! :eek: :p:

rover67
09-28-2011, 08:54 AM
Well, it is looking good man, and some progress is better than none.

:)

TIMZTOY
12-06-2011, 08:57 PM
if ya need some help, let me know.