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Eldorado556
02-03-2011, 09:28 PM
My 60 had a whole mess of wires left over from previous stereo installations. I have removed all of the excess wiring and eventually I'll get to putting my stereo in. I also removed an old amp from under the seat and replaced it with the tire iron and my fire extinguisher.

So with my new battery replacement I was thinking it would be wise to add an auxiliary fuse block. The Blue Sea block is probably what I'll go with.

First I'll take the driving lights off the terminal and hook them up to the fuse block.

I'd also like to do the following.

Add a 12V socket to the back.
Hook up my subwoofer.
Hook up an air compressor.

I've done some basic wiring before, driving lights and such. Trying to decide if I want the block in the engine compartment or somewhere inside the truck. If I went inside I was thinking about behind one of the cargo panels. I'd fabricate a new panel to hold the 12V socket and could also mount a compressor behind it as well. I'd just keep the driving lights on the terminal if I went this route.

Anyone have pics of their setup? Any recommendations or SNAFU's to consider. I'd like to do it once and do it right.

corsair23
02-03-2011, 10:52 PM
You could probably garner a ton of information by doing a search here and over on MUD on "aux fuse block"

My thoughts given what you want to do.

If you are going to have accessories outside the truck that you want to power, I would install an aux fuse block in the engine compartment somewhere. That makes it convenient to power stuff outside. Not sure I would wire the driving lights to it vs. direct to the battery but someone can probably chime in there.

If you are going to have accessories inside the truck that you want to power, I would install an aux fuse block inside somewhere. That makes it convenient to power stuff inside the truck.

So I would do both vs. having a bunch of wires running through the firewall. I only installed one on the inside because I only have a couple items outside that need power and I just took them direct to the battery (proper fused of course) like you stated you might.

I attached a couple pics of my Blue Sea aux fuse block that I installed in my LX. A popular install location in the 80 series is under the passenger seat attached to the heater. Not sure what is popular in the 60 series.

I like the Blue Sea block because I have both power and ground run to the block which makes finding a ground for whatever I install easy. The other option is to just ground whatever you install to a ground close by the item. Either way works but for me it is easier to just go to the block vs. hunting for a good ground in the area.

Figure out what your total load will be on the block and size the gauge wire feeding it appropriately. I went bigger than needed (4ga IIRC) so I shouldn't ever have to worry about it. Don't forget to properly fuse the power lead to the fuse block at the battery end.

As for the 12v sockets. I installed some of the West Marine ones in the back (3 socket deal with 1 dedicated to the fridge and then 2 others for whatever). What I found with the West Marine 12v sockets is that you really need to get the West Marine plugs as well for anything that is critical to keep plugged in (like a fridge). Other plugs for whatever reason don't seem to fit as tight and wiggle free after some time.

.

Inukshuk
02-03-2011, 11:50 PM
Hensley Battery up here by Mile Hi Stadium has all the cables and can crimp ends for you. I Have not priced them there but imagine they would be good. They know a little about Rising Sun from all our battery buys.

Eldorado556
02-04-2011, 08:35 AM
Thanks for the ideas and tips. My first step will be to replace my old battery cables. I'm pretty sure they are the originals. If not they are sure to be old, like the 1991 spark plug wires I replaced.

Hensley is a bit of a drive, maybe I'll make the trip once I source everything I need.

I figure one inside to start with would be good.

Jacket
02-04-2011, 09:43 AM
I've always had my fuse blocks for interior accessories, and thus it's been inside the truck. I think ideally you could have two: one in the engine bay for lights and a compressor, and another inside the truck for the fridge, 12v sockets, etc. Just consider that if you have only one in the engine bay, then you'll have to run wires through the firewall for all your interior accessories. My interior fuse block is under the seat close to the kick panel, but where you locate it is somewhat arbitrary - keeping in mind the wiring you'll have to run from the block to your accessories, and the size of the main artery or power wire that runs from the battery to the block. Ideally, this is as short as possible, but if you need to run it the length of the truck, then consider bumping up your wire gauge a bit to account for potential voltage loss (there are some good tables on these internets about wire size per amps and distance).

Hulk
02-08-2011, 01:53 AM
West Marine down on County Line has a crimper you can use to make all your cables. They sell all the supplies too.

Eldorado556
02-08-2011, 08:02 AM
West Marine down on County Line has a crimper you can use to make all your cables. They sell all the supplies too.

I might be looking into this soon since I plan on doing my stereo install soon. Best to get all this electrical work done and out of the way.

Corbet
02-08-2011, 08:59 AM
There are many options. Most of us seem to end up with a Blue Sea fuse block. There is a good write up on Slee's site under Tech. http://www.sleeoffroad.com/technical/tz_interior_fusebox.htm This is what inspired my install.http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showthread.php?t=6219&page=3&highlight=fuse+block start at post #28.

There is another good one on MUD for an under hood install using a junk yard fuse block from a ford explorer? If you search there you'll probably come across it.

treerootCO
02-08-2011, 09:17 AM
I added a block to the same spot. The relay is energized off the old cigarette lighter for switched power. Ran a constant back to the lighter so it is always on now. I know I have at least 2 of the Blue Sea boxes left if you needed one. http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showthread.php?t=11274

Painless Wiring Cirkit Bosses, part number 70207 (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRF-70207/)
Blue Sea Fuse Blocks, part number 5025 (http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/81191/377%20710/0/blue%20sea%205025/Primary%20Search/mode%20matchallpartial/0/0?N=377%20710&Ne=0&Ntt=blue%20sea%205025&Ntk=Primary%20Search&Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial&Nao=0&Ns=0&keyword=blue%20sea%205025&isLTokenURL=true&storeNum=5002&subdeptNum=9&classNum=295).


22672

22673

Eldorado556
02-08-2011, 09:40 AM
I added a block to the same spot. The relay is energized off the old cigarette lighter for switched power. Ran a constant back to the lighter so it is always on now. [I]I know I have at least 2 of the Blue Sea boxes left if you needed one.



Probably take you up on the Blue Sea. :thumb:

I'll send ya a PM on my lunch break.

MDH33
02-08-2011, 10:05 AM
Here's a write-up I did when I did a dual battery install in my 60. I also used a blue sea aux block. I installed it down on the driver side kick panel for easy access. I put 2 12v receptacles in the back as well.

http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showthread.php?t=10372