View Full Version : Moab Ready engine refresh for 2F

02-06-2011, 07:15 PM
Gonna be doing a little work on the 40 to get it in tip-top shape for Moab and the coming summer. Most of this stuff is well documented in other posts, but I'll try to fill in gaps where pictures have been lacking.

"Originally Posted by Air Randy
So your worst cylinder adjusted for altitude is 133 psi, next worse is 141 and the rest are almost 150. 150 is what they should be new at sea level. Generally speaking it sounds like the rings aren't in too bad of shape."

These are words of wisdom. I can't afford a full engine rebuild right now, so the plan is as follows.

1) Remove the engine, transmission and transfer case and take the head in to Gunn for a rebuild.

2) Measure bores and hopefully just do a hone/ream/re-ring on all six cylinders. #s 2 and 5 were the usual low suspects.

3) Replace the rear and front main seals that leak like sieves.

4) Possibly replace the transmission/transfer case seal, though this is not critical since I have that return kit installed so there is a bandaid fix in place.

5) Install my Aussie locker in the rear, with bearing replacement if necessary since I have those parts ready to go.

6) Inspect the front knuckles and rebuild if necessary since I have a kit ready to go. (I think they are OK since I did the front axle service at the WBPP last spring, though we didn't touch the knuckles.)

7) Inspect and replace as necessary the clutch components. It is grinding when I put it in reverse, and there is no more adjustment left.

8) Flush the coolant and the brake fluids and inspect/adjust brakes.

9) Replace those wobbly front blinkers and fix the driver's rear stop lamp short.

And voila! MOAB READY. Project starts tomorrow at Randy's shop, thank you, sir. Help is always welcome, so if you are interested in any particular part, let me know and I will estimate the schedule for that piece of work.

02-06-2011, 10:34 PM
Hurry! It will be here before you know it! Sounds like a great list, your 40 will love you! :thumb:

02-07-2011, 12:27 PM
Sounds like what I did back in the late 90's to my 60. I'd add: replace all vacuum and coolant lines

02-07-2011, 01:05 PM
Looks like a good plan but I'd want to have 400 miles on it between the work and leaving for Moab to be sure everthing is tight and dialed in.

02-07-2011, 02:19 PM
Sounds like what I did back in the late 90's to my 60. I'd add: replace all vacuum and coolant lines

Good idea. I forgot to put that on my list, but was planning on doing it. I already have the vacuum lines and will probably get the SOR hose set.

02-07-2011, 02:20 PM
Looks like a good plan but I'd want to have 400 miles on it between the work and leaving for Moab to be sure everthing is tight and dialed in.

I'm hoping to have this done by the end of this month, so I should have plenty of break-in time.

02-08-2011, 12:25 PM
Day 1 down. Removed shafts, bib, radiator all fluids, Lots of passenger side clutter. Ricardo is an angel of Mercy. He showed up even after his wife expressed the concern that I may be a serial killer. I think he told her, "Nah he's only killed a couple of guys, and they were trying to eat his eggs".

Pictures show the leaky mess caused by a 34 year old rear main seal, and some other gunk and neglect.

02-09-2011, 08:58 AM
Sascha is making very good progress:thumb:. It is really nice to have a heated facility to work in, the temperature outside was well below 0. The head is likely going to be dropped off at the machine shop today. As of the end of work last night here is what the scene looks like.


We have not really encountered any big issues with the removal. One bolt head needed the "metric #12 vice grip socket" and the head on one of the water pump bolts snapped. Our brief look at the pistons and cylinders found them to be in good shape. There is the expected carbon build up and the cylinder walls are nice a smooth.

02-09-2011, 05:37 PM
We got the engine pulled after a long day yesterday. The head is now at Gunn's for him to work his magic. Bleow are a few pics I thought might prove interesting.

1 and 2) The transfer case linkage and shifter are one piece. You take out the top bolt holding down the bracket from above, then take off the nut by the greasable pivot below. Then you take off the nut at the aem on top of the tfer, remove the bracket, and the whole assemply slides off at the greasable arm.

3) To remove the shifter in the cab, you use Ricardo's special factory tool (a long pliers handle) and in the case of my 8/77, teist clockwise while holding downward pressure.

4) Ricardo is a heck of an engine lifter!

5)A view of the engine from the drivers side showing the stock emissions configuration.

02-09-2011, 05:53 PM
6) Separating the transmission and attached tfer case from the engine. The back parts sit on Randy's old/busted dolly. Get the angle right with the hoist and pop it apart with a pry bar, then it slides apart.

7) There's my bores all lined up and ready for some further attention.

02-09-2011, 07:01 PM
Awesome Sasha! Those pictures looks a lot like mine from last year. Hope you are well within spec so you can just hone and re-ring. You will be much happier with the compression and no oil leaks.:thumb:

Ricardo, those coveralls look well broken in...

02-09-2011, 07:59 PM

02-11-2011, 10:24 PM
Well, two days of cleaniong and everything is ready to g for the block tear-down tomorrow. I spent hours with razer blade, WD40 and a scotch-brite trying to clean off the block and the cylinder tops. Then Randy showed me the easy way, a wire wheel on an angle grinder. The biggest problem with being w rookie at wrenching is not knowing how careul you have to be with what pieces. It went real fast once I took the wire wheel to it. Hopefully all is well. There is a groove in cylinder 6 that is quite noticeable when you run your finger over it. It is nice and smooth like the rest of the wall, but I can't believe it should be there. This engine might see the machine shop yet. Tomorrow should tell.

Pics of the wire wheel process.

02-14-2011, 11:58 AM
OK, there is a pretty good groove in cylinder wall 6 from a broken ringthat has been doing its thing for a long time. Funny that the compression still measured well in that one. The block is now at Gunn's andI am expecting them to confirm that I will need to have it bored out to get rid of that groove. Seems like the thing to do now. They als said the lobes are worn and pitted on my camshaft, so does anybody have a recommendation for a good source for an RV cam? Otherwise everything looks OK...

Pics: 1) Tining marks must line up on the crank and cam gears, and that oil spurter screw is a pretty critical adjustment. Mine had two threads showing.

2)Those big slotted screws are quite shallow, staked with metal and are a PITA to ge out. Randy used a cold chisel and a hammer like a big screwdriver on the appropriate side of the slot to get them started.

3) There is the crankshaft revealed.

4) The block is ready to go to the shop now. Ricardo is about to lift it up with one hand and throw it in the back of my truck. This engine-rebuilding/strength building program is really paying off for him.

5) You have to eat a good breakfast before you spend a bunch of money!

02-14-2011, 12:05 PM
Very cool!

Team Ricardo/Rosetta at it again...........:bowdown:

02-16-2011, 10:46 AM
The plan was to measure and inspect the rotating assembly parts and if everything was in spec; re-ring, replace bearings and put it all back together. When the scoring of the #6 cylinder wall was discovered, Sascha made the call to take it in to the machine shop. The machine shop will go through all the measurements and get back to him with what they find. We did check the oil pump gears and found the clearances to be tight and within spec. Throughout this project, Sascha has been taking pictures and care to bag and lable the nuts and bolts. I know this group is big on pictures and I did manage to get a couple related to technical content.:D

Here he is removing connecting rod nuts on cylinder 6.

Before removing each piston, the connecting rod bolts are capped with tubing. This is done to prevent any damage to the cylinder walls.

Each piston came out very smoothly. Immediately upon removal, the connecting rod cap was placed back on. The connecting rods were stamped with marks which make it easier to insure the orientation of cap to rod was consistent. The cylinder numbers were not stamped, so each was labled with the cylinder number it came out of.

Along with the block, the other components of the rotating assembly are ready to go to the machine shop.

Randy had pulled the Blue Mule into the shop to install twin shifters on the t-case. Here is Sascha's rig waiting for its new heart.

02-27-2011, 09:07 AM
:D Engine is built ...


02-27-2011, 09:42 AM
Sash, what cam did you wind up installing?

02-27-2011, 09:45 AM
:D Engine is built ...

That is a purty motor Sascha!

Air Randy
02-27-2011, 10:19 AM
:D Engine is built ...


Ricardo, you must have taken 150 pictures yesterday, and you post up 1?

02-27-2011, 12:34 PM
:D Engine is built ...


Happy man!

02-27-2011, 08:15 PM
That's a nice clean engine!

02-27-2011, 09:55 PM
Ricardo, you must have taken 150 pictures yesterday, and you post up 1?

187 over the three days to be exact. There are some good shots and I'm hoping to do a very good write up on building an engine. :thumb:

02-27-2011, 09:57 PM
:D Engine and drive train are in the truck. The engine has oil all the way to the head and rockers. The accessories still need to be done, but Sascha will get to that during the day over this week.


Air Randy
02-27-2011, 11:13 PM
:D Engine and drive train are in the truck. The engine has oil all the way to the head and rockers. The accessories still need to be done, but Sascha will get to that during the day over this week.


As usual I'm out of town this week. Is anyone else free during the day to help Sash get this buttoned up?

03-03-2011, 06:02 PM
It runs again. Sascha has been busy a few of hours each day getting everything put back together. Today we fired it up and did the cam break in. Here are Sascha and Theo taking it out for its first run around the block. Woohoo, it is moving under its own power again.:D


There was some slight weeping from a loose water pump bolt and heater hose and one bolt on the side cover - very minor. Upon return from the first run, the clutch fork and slave needed some adjusting. There is an intermittent whine or air whistle (you can hear it as they leave the garage) that we have not isolated yet.

03-03-2011, 06:51 PM
Wow, that sounds like a hybrid now. :cool: