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View Full Version : 80 Series Roof Rack Wiring Routing Thread


Inukshuk
02-23-2011, 08:12 PM
How have you routed wires for lights and antennas to your 80 series roof rack?

Have you used any couplers to be able to quickly disconnect the wires and tuck them away when you remove your rack?

Inukshuk
02-24-2011, 07:00 PM
Okey dokey. Looks like I get to be a pioneer here. Should have my rack next Friday.

treerootCO
02-24-2011, 07:08 PM
I used one of these with the pass through base:


DEUTSCH TERMINAL
22776

I'll dig up a pic......

treerootCO
02-24-2011, 07:52 PM
Here are some pics. I decided to hide it behind one of the supports. It might look funny without the roofrack but it works well with it. I ran 10gauge up the A pillar for the light bar and 12gauge to the roof top tent lighting.

22777

You can see it on the passenger side between the sun roof and the roof rack.
22778

Inukshuk
02-25-2011, 01:09 AM
Thx. I'll take a look at the terminals. I am hoping to do a no-drill the roof routing option. I have heard of people using the snorkel and I was also going to look at the rear pillar vent.

treerootCO
02-25-2011, 07:15 AM
You can run it up the A pillar inside the drip rail. I had it there first and it worked for what it was. I moved it because the doors started cutting into the wires.

nakman
02-25-2011, 08:12 AM
Daniel you're getting a new rack, right? So you're ditching the factory rack? If so you'll have several holes to work with.. the easiest is probably above the driver door- can you pull the headliner down far enough to poke a wire through the factory rack's nutzert? Then silicone it up real good to stop future leaks.. :hill:

But since you have a snorkel I'd keep thinking of using that as a guide, that's what this guy did http://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/460454-mounting-roof-lights.html

Mike I like that plug option... I think I need RTT lights.. :cool:

Inukshuk
02-25-2011, 08:41 AM
Daniel you're getting a new rack, right? So you're ditching the factory rack? If so you'll have several holes to work with.. the easiest is probably above the driver door- can you pull the headliner down far enough to poke a wire through the factory rack's nutzert? Then silicone it up real good to stop future leaks.

Yes, I expect to be making the reveal next weekend. At the moment the factory rack will still be there but I do plan to eventually remove it. I certainly will not need it and I want to address the rust. I have thought about those factory rack holes. If I used one I'd most likely want to pull the whole headliner and fix up all the holes right before closing it back up. At that point I'd probably mount a plug like Mike has.

But since you have a snorkel I'd keep thinking of using that as a guide, that's what this guy did http://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/460454-mounting-roof-lights.html

Brand new thread too. Nice find. I was even thinking inside the snorkel with a plug-in connector mounted to the scoop.

I also will be running my CB and HAM antenna's up there so I need to run those cables. Can you put an inline coupler on antenna coax?

I was planning on 16ga wire for the lights. The come with 18ga. I suppose the common ground should be heavier to ground the entire rack suitably for an antenna as well. Maybe a strap run to a rear hatch hinge bolt.

DaveInDenver
02-25-2011, 08:51 AM
i Also Will Be Running My Cb And Ham Antenna's Up There So I Need To Run Those Cables. Can You Put An Inline Coupler On Antenna Coax?
They make antenna connectors for sheet metal. This is hands down the best way to run a mobile antenna, on an NMO mount.

22779

But you probably are mounting the whips on the rack itself. I would use a SO-239 bulkhead in the roof and use a short patch cable if you already have mounts. These are about $2 a piece and I just put in an order for a few, so if you wanted some.

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nakman
02-25-2011, 09:15 AM
When I removed my factory rack like 8 years ago I used screws and rubber washers for the holes and called it a day. No problems to report.. but yes the better way is pull the headliner and weld it all shut, then repaint.. and in that case forget about the snorkel run, take all your wiring up an A or B pillar, you'll already have them all exposed. I guess it's a matter of a half-day job or a multi-weekend job.

Do you need to get into garages ever? While up on the rooftop is clearly the best antenna performance, it comes with the added pain of futzing with antennas all the time if you need low clearance.. but you know this, that's just my personal hangup I'll go back to work now. :)

Inukshuk
02-25-2011, 02:21 PM
Great to know about the bulkhead and patch cables. I do plan to attach the whips to the rack (sounds fun).

Do you need to get into garages ever? While up on the rooftop is clearly the best antenna performance, it comes with the added pain of futzing with antennas all the time if you need low clearance.. but you know this, that's just my personal hangup I'll go back to work now. :)

With our tires and lifts we are already garage limited, the rack alone eliminates most of the rest. Even at home. For now I will typically not have the antennas attached. For the NMO mount I have on my bumper now I cover it when not in use. I carry the short antenna so I could attach it any time and attach the long one for trips. I will have to get a new CB antenna that does the same, or a fold down. Long term I would like to have a taller home garage with a set of pulley mounted hooks to take the roof rack off.

I will also soon need to get a small car for daily use.