View Full Version : Waxing the 60

03-03-2011, 09:22 AM
Going to take it a bit easy this weekend and just finish up some minor projects. One thing I'll do is give Babe a bath and wax.

Anyone ever use the clay bars? I was just thinking about washing, removing nasty spots with degreaser and then a second wash before waxing.

I did finally remove the faded dealer sticker from the tailgate, so I have a baseline for what the finish should look like. It's really not that faded.

03-03-2011, 09:38 AM
I use clay for my 1957 Willys show car, but it is usually not necessary for a normal paint job. It picks up the fine particles in the paint before you wax. At the same time once a year would not hurt.

03-03-2011, 09:43 AM
I've used one a few times before. The results are pretty good on clear coat paint jobs; not sure if it would give you much on faded LC paint. You can buy pre-packaged lubricants, or just mix some dawn and water in a spray bottle to act as a lube agent. It's pretty amazing how much debris the clay bar will pick up.

There is also a good variety of paint cleansers (pre-wax step) out there that do a nice job restoring luster and smoothness to paint. Works really good if you have an orbital buffer to help you work it into the paint.

03-03-2011, 10:12 AM
I went all our years ago and got an orbital buffer, clay and wax from griots. The clay really does do a great job removing junk prior to the wax job. It would be a ton of work to do it without an orbital buffer though.

03-03-2011, 10:27 AM
I'm a fan of the clay bar, and it's reaaaallly easy. almost zero effort and doesn't take long at all. The paint will have that super smooth feel like a new car.

I would say, if you want to bring the paint back nicely without too much time:
1. wash and dry
2. clay bar - get lots of the spray-lube:lmao:
3. decent cleaner-wax by hand (mothers/meguire's)
4. decent sealer-wax by hand or machine.

Although we hear alot about Carnuba wax (which is great) it doesn't last very long; great for show cars. I use wax/polymer combo because it seems to last longer. i.e water beads up longer. I used to swear by NuFinish in the orange bottle and still like it. the stuff just plain works and lasts.

I do this process on my cars every other year or every third year and just wax once a year or so; which is overkill for my fj60 BTW. :o if we were showing them, I think there are other paint cleaning/prep to do.

I have a cheapo Ryobi random orbit buffer with a 10" pad, after the paint is clay bar'd and cleaner waxed I apply the final wax with that. it takes very little time.

03-03-2011, 03:14 PM
I've never bothered to take time to wax my other vehicles. I picked up some Meguire's cleaner wax. I'll give it a go this weekend and see where my trouble spots are.

I thought about picking up a cheap buffer but for now I'll do it by hand.

Thanks for the advice on the clays and such.

03-05-2011, 07:38 PM
Quite a bit shinier now. Today was perfect waxing weather.



Now that I have a somewhat clean canvas I can think about tackling my main rust areas.

Mr. Hugh G Dent


Rear quarter damage. Ghetto silicone fix on the rear blinker.


Random rust patch on door.


Caribou Sandstorm
03-05-2011, 08:00 PM
Looks like you really did a nice job, good looking 60!

I've used McGuires cleaner wax for years, it is a great product.

I also got turned on the Clay bars a few years ago, we have a tree in our front yard that drops killer sap...

The clay bar will remove oxidization on your paint and really help bring it back. The trick is to use soapy water when rubbing on the paint. You really want to keep your surface sudsy when using a clay bar.

03-06-2011, 07:48 PM
Nice looking rig. My body shop recommended a special paint treatment/conditioner instead of wax. I bought a jug of the stuff...very expensive, but it does work great. I'll try to remember to get it out and post the name when I get home. It does work great. They buffed my whole rig out and put that stuff on it last fall, and it looked like new.

03-07-2011, 09:55 AM
Just make sure if you are going to sand those rusty areas to really de-wax all the area around there with a de-waxer. Otherwise when you go to repaint you can get a lot of fish-eyes in the paint from wax being ground into the sanded surface... DAMHIK. ;)