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satchel
03-28-2011, 11:29 AM
I'm trying to get this info from the DMV but I keep getting put on hold and not getting through. I'm looking to purchase a LC in Cali and bring it back. Can anyone tell me the process of getting a temp permit to drive this thing back? Is the DMV here the correct place to get it, or could it be just as easily done in Cali?

Corbet
03-28-2011, 11:38 AM
need to do it in the state you plan to register. So yes CO.

But I think the plate stays with the car in CA. Not if sold to an out of state new owner but will the seller let you have the plate? Add to your insurance and drive her home I say.

Friend of mine is doing it as I type this now. Just bought an RV and driving it home on old plate.

DanS
03-28-2011, 11:42 AM
Spot on.

To get a temporary tag you should just need the VIN and proof of insurance. I got a couple temp tags for the 60 (from MT, to here in CO) while we dealt with a titling issue on it. Very easy to walk into the DMV and walk out with a temp tag (I think they were 60 day tags). Not sure about CO, but other states add fines if you show up for the VIN inspection without current plates (current also implies registered to you). Cheaper to get a temp tag, drive it there and avoid the fine, just in case.

You could probably do it at any CO DMV if you wanted. I have never waited more than 5 minutes at the Clear Creek County Register (the office that doubles as DMV). My sister uses Clear Creek for stuff like that instead of waiting in line at Jeffco (where she resides).

Dan

RicardoJM
03-28-2011, 11:55 AM
Did you find an FJ40 that quick?

satchel
03-28-2011, 12:30 PM
I'm toying with the idea, yes. Don't have the link right now but it is on ebay in arcada cali if you want to check it out and let me know if I'm stupid. I'm not paying what he is asking for it.

rover67
03-28-2011, 12:33 PM
sounds like fun :)

RicardoJM
03-28-2011, 12:36 PM
Dang, I thought you were at least going to try one out for a week test drive - you don't mess around. Remote or local, I'd be happy to take a look and share an opinion.

satchel
03-28-2011, 12:40 PM
I'll send a link to it when I get back to a computer.

satchel
03-28-2011, 01:04 PM
So first off, here is the link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyota-Land-Cruiser-FJ40-1974-FJ-40-Land-Cruiser-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2eb41df679QQitemZ200590358137QQptZUSQ5fCarsQ5fTrucks#v4-33

I have contacted him and I'm paying less than the price on there, should I decide to get it.

Yes, Ricardo, I am moving extremely quickly. Let me explain the situation.

After coming home from the WBPP on Sat I was talking to my wife about how I almost had you talked in to letting me take your 40 home. I've been talking to her about wanting to beef up the 62 a little with skid plates and sliders, and then possibly figuring something out like an ARB rear (I tried the Aussie and it was horrible) and told her I was wanting to spend a few grand on this kind of crap just to make sure I am protecting the newer decent paint job and such and just get it ready for Moab in general. Provided her an alternative that I could also just be done all together with the 62 and put that money into a 40 instead that I can use to beat up on the trails and just have my 62 as the daily driver. She said that was fine, but that I need to be looking for a 40 to have at Moab if that is the case, so I don't do something dumb with my 62. This 40 is a truck that I have no intention of restoring what so ever. Just something to beat up on some rocks with.

So that kind of solidified the fact that I need to start looking soon, along with the fact that I want to get it before she changes her mind. So, I started looking for a 5k or less rig that is decent for trails mostly and that I won't feel bad about dragging it along the rocks and dinging it up. Something that has a lift on it and things like that so that I won't be pouring more money into it along with my 62.

That said, feel free to flame away.

satchel
03-28-2011, 01:10 PM
And yes, I will tell him to correct the front bezel.

nakman
03-28-2011, 01:27 PM
Wow what a road trip... Arcata up in NW California? :eek: but OTOH you'll know that thing pretty well by the time you get back! how fun

MDH33
03-28-2011, 01:27 PM
...Provided her an alternative that I could also just be done all together with the 62 and put that money into a 40 instead that I can use to beat up on the trails and just have my 62 as the daily driver. She said that was fine, but that I need to be looking for a 40 to have at Moab if that is the case, so I don't do something dumb with my 62. This 40 is a truck that I have no intention of restoring what so ever. Just something to beat up on some rocks with.

...
That said, feel free to flame away.

You don't need to go all the way to California to find a 40 to "beat on the rocks with".

and if that's all you want to do, why not just buy a *eep? seriously. 40's are classics man.

satchel
03-28-2011, 01:34 PM
Perhaps I should clarify my "Beat up on the rocks" statement. I don't mean that I will intentionally drive it to tear it up, I mean that I will be fine doing some trails that I would not really want to do in my 62 because I won't be as concerned if it gets a ding here and there. I'm sure you're right, that I could probably find something closer, and I haven't been looking long, but currently that is about the best deal I have found and there really isn't anything here in that price range, and road trips are great so it doesn't scare me some to travel to find something that I would rather have over a *eep! I'm open to things closer if anyone knows of a sub 5k 40 that is lifted and ready to trail ride.

MDH33
03-28-2011, 03:05 PM
here you go, local late model square bezel for not much more than the one you're considering in Ca. which is an earlier model with F, drum brakes, etc.

http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/2285957368.html

satchel
03-28-2011, 03:10 PM
I think I am a little partial to the one in Cali because it has the v8 and lift on it already. Like I said, I won't be able to spend any more money on it than about 5k and I want to be able to do whatever trails I want right off the bat, not look at lifting it and so forth afterwards. And like I said, he's agreed on me paying less than what he is asking (4.5 range) so that one is already quite a bit more expensive. I would like to find something comparable around here, I just don't see those two as comparable.

MDH33
03-28-2011, 03:14 PM
you'll spend $1000 in gas driving it back, plus airfare out there. :hill:

I'll keep my eyes open for you. Didn't know you were partial to v8's, so I'll keep that in mind.

good luck. :beer:

satchel
03-28-2011, 03:19 PM
Not really all that partial to V8's but would find that beneficial. If I were going to restore it I would def want the 2f, but it won't be restored to any pristine kind of condition. I am more looking at the fact that it has a lift and winch on it already. I figure I'm looking at 5.5 to get that truck back, so I definitely know it is going to cost me some money to go grab it. I view that as an adventure! Hopefully this doesn't turn into another club issue where I go through 4 more trucks after getting this one from Cali and end up with a 4 runner! Thanks for keeping your eyes open for me! I'm basically looking for something that has a mild lift on it that I can fit 33's on, don't want to get much bigger than that I don't think, and any other add ons are a bonus such as winches, and of course the less rust the better. Perhaps this should be moved to the wanted section. Didn't really mean for it to go this direction on this thread.

MountainGoat
03-28-2011, 03:24 PM
... Hopefully this doesn't turn into another club issue where I go through 4 more trucks after getting this one from Cali and end up with a 4 runner! Thanks for keeping your eyes open for me!

:lmao::lmao::lmao:

RicardoJM
03-28-2011, 03:42 PM
Well, I would recommend to any prospective 40 buyer, a thorough check out before buying. If you have budget range that you are looking at, an inspection is even more important. The beauty (and curse ) of these old trucks is how easy they are to work on/modify.

Without a solid recommendation, I would be leary of traveling that far for an old 40. For the type of wheeling that I understand you are interested in, I wouldn't sweat the load on V8 vs F/2F or the lift. I've seen Dan and Matt wheel plenty with the straigt 6, small tires and no lift. I've been able to go plenty of cool places with a fairly stock setup.

The most important thing is to match the rig and whatever work it might need with your budget and desire to drive vs wrench on it. A bit tricky for sure and I've seen a couple that didn't get it right for them and it took all the fun out of it in a hurry.

rover67
03-28-2011, 03:59 PM
here you go, local late model square bezel for not much more than the one you're considering in Ca. which is an earlier model with F, drum brakes, etc.

http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/2285957368.html

whoa,

that thing is nice.

i wish i'da found that rig. looks pretty complete.. uncut dash and everything.

MDH33
03-28-2011, 04:01 PM
whoa,

that thing is nice.

i wish i'da found that rig. looks pretty complete.. uncut dash and everything.

Yep, that one looks like a good deal for an '81. :cool:

He has a pretty solid looking '69 too:

http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/2290339578.html

sorry for the hijack. ;)

Air Randy
03-28-2011, 04:14 PM
So, lets discuss a few things about that rig after looking at the link:

1-I have seen many V8 conversions, they can be a big can of worms. You need to find out who did the V8 conversion and what components were used. Most of these are cobbled together shade tree jobs that have issues with over heating, etc. Be prepared to work on this thing.

2-What transmission does it have? Stock Toyota 4 spd or an SM420? It looks like a GM style shifter cane from what I can see. Again, be cautious of this. If the tranny conversion and/or rear cross member was cobbled together there could be a lot of work to make this thing right.

3-A 1974 will have coarse spline axle/birfs. These were OK with stock tires and straight 6's. With bigger tires and a V8 you will need to plan on replacing broken axles & birfields or replace them with Longfield stuff. Good but not cheap.

If this rig was local and you could drive it a lot and check it out thoroughly, I might be a little more comfortable with it. I would be pretty nervous about traveling all the way out there only to discover it's a POS, especially if you already bought it online. You might want to post up on MUD and see if anyone there knows this guy or the rig and comment on it's condition.

Quite honestly? That 1981 looks like a really good deal, especially if you make him an offer of 5K or so. Keep this in mind too, assuming the basic mechanical condition of the vehicle is good:

It will have OEM disc brakes in front and may have factory power steering, which the 74 has neither. It will have the stronger fine spline axles, large pattern knuckles and the stronger split case transfer case.

I didnt see where the 74 had lockers, assuming it doesnt, this 81 will go any where in Moab the 74 will go, and get you back too. The slightly larger tires and small lift the 74 has dont make it wheel much better. When you consider the strength of the 81's drive train components and most likely better reliability, it's a pretty easy choice for me. But thats just my .02.

subzali
03-28-2011, 04:17 PM
His other ad says it's an '80, in which case it won't have the split case. But yes looks nice a nice deal. Much better than $5200 for that one in Cali. And as far as driving that thing back from Cali - I drove mine back from Grand Junction and it was a near disaster. You're a braver man than me. If you do go buy it, I would find a friend with a trailer and schedule a road trip.

Air Randy
03-28-2011, 04:21 PM
Buy the 1980 if it's what he says it is. We can throw a rattle can paint job on it and the lunchbox locker you took out of the 60 in an afternoon and it will wheel Moab better than the 74.

Depends what month 1980 it is, could be a split TC or not. Either way it's a better deal than the 74 IMHO.

satchel
03-28-2011, 04:26 PM
Interesting comments, all. Thanks for your input! I have a feeling that buying that 80 model would lead to me want to be putting a lift on it and buying 33's and so forth, I guess that is what is holding me back as I can't really put any more money into it. I can put my aussie in the back of either of them though. I'm a little surprised the course spline would not hold up well to 33's and a v8.

Air Randy
03-28-2011, 04:37 PM
If you're really careful you can probably get by with them. But if you get tempted to use the skinny pedal, spin a wheel then have it grab traction.....they will pop like a cheap balloon.

Read Ricardo's thread on the add a leaf conversion he just did. I think he spent under $200 and got 2" or more of lift. He runs 33's now with no clearance issues. We can do that mod in the same afternoon we add the locker and give it fresh paint! For the same amount of money we can have a rig ready to wheel for you by Moab and it will be reliable.

There is no way that rig in CA is going to be ready to drive and be reliable without also putting some money into it. And when you're done doing that, it won't be as a good a setup as the newer one.

satchel
03-28-2011, 04:52 PM
Dangit, I guess I'll have to go take a look at that 81/80 model. Just can't go against so many people telling me otherwise. Anyone that actually knows anything about 40's is more than welcome to join me, I'll pay for food.

wesintl
03-28-2011, 04:57 PM
They're both going to be money pits.

If you want a stockish cruiser get the 80 and pretty much keep it that way. If you want a v8 get the other or keep looking.

satchel
03-28-2011, 05:02 PM
The guy with the 80 model won't budge at all on price... I'm so torn. Perhaps I need to wait a while.

corsair23
03-28-2011, 05:48 PM
I'm so torn. Perhaps I need to wait a while.

Best advice you've gotten all day, right there :thumb:

I bought the first 40 I went to look at because I wanted one. Knowing then what I knew later, I should have waited and saved myself a ton of money. It was a '76 that a father and son were restoring and had done a lot of work to...over a period of 5 years.

I spent probably another $5-6k more on that rig on top of what I had paid for it and it STILL wasn't anywhere near where I wanted it to be. I ended up buying a 40 that was 90% of what I wanted my 40 to be and sold the '76 for a huge loss and IMO still came out ahead in the end.

Drive a 40 around for awhile...Make sure it is really want you want in a long road trip off road rig. They are a ton of fun, but IMO you really need to spend some time in one first.

In the mean time, take the 62 to Moab, do the trails that rarely if ever cause any body damage (lots of 'em) and keep your eye out for the right 40 that you can go see, drive, and make sure is the one you want.

EDIT: Looked at the 40 in the link...I wouldn't pay that much $$, or even $4k without seeing it in person. Sounds like a lot of added stuff that may or may not work, be in good shape, etc. "Barings" need to be repacked, winch needs new wiring, needs "TLC"...You might find that the soft top is junk, etc. - If you really want, find someone in CA to go look at it for you.

satchel
03-28-2011, 06:19 PM
Not looking for a long road trip off road rig, just off road. I have the 62 for all I need on the highway, just looking for a cheap 40 with some "bonus" additions that might make working the trail a little easier. It would need to make the long road trip back, but afterwards it is a non issue. Certainly don't need any kind of nice 40 that would be better off being restored.
Anyway, I'm sure I just need to wait and see what comes up, that's just hard for me to do. I was thinking of seeing what this guy would let his 40 go for http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showthread.php?t=15006, but it sounds like that would be worse that the one in Cali being it has a course spline turning 35's with a 350 if I'm understanding the weak points and which years they were in.

Air Randy
03-28-2011, 06:41 PM
Hell, if you're going to spend that kind of money talk to me about buying the Bule Mule

MDH33
03-28-2011, 06:57 PM
that '74 might not have coarse spline. The ad said it was converted to disks, so the axles likely were too.

Air Randy
03-28-2011, 07:05 PM
There are conversions where you add mini truck knuckles and such but the axle shafts don't change, but it could be.

MDH33
03-28-2011, 07:14 PM
There are conversions where you add mini truck knuckles and such but the axle shafts don't change, but it could be.

Aha, gotcha. Definitely worth asking.

satchel
03-28-2011, 07:15 PM
Hell, if you're going to spend that kind of money talk to me about buying the Bule Mule

Wouldn't pay that much. He started at 9k, went to 7.5 and I thought I would see if I could talk him down to 6, but I doubt it. Anyway, sounds like it would be just as bad (35 on coarse splines with a 350) as the one in Cali I am looking at so I suppose it doesn't matter much.

rover67
03-28-2011, 07:30 PM
Man, all i can say is I'd wait for a little while and look at a bunch of them. There won't be one "that got away". I even jumped on mine too quick too. I fell for the fact that it was a late model, and knew it had rust, but overlooked the fact that a lot of stuff was not stock. I wanted a stock vehicle and didn't realize it be so laborious to locate parts and get it to "zero" again.

If it were me I might skip the v8 conversions for the reasons listed above. My 40 took me up and over Eisenhower with a few down shifts to third averaging 45-50MPH. That ain't too bad in my book. gets similar mileage to the 60 also.

you are welcome to borrow mine for a while and see if stock is what you want.
BTW, your 62 will remain nice through Moab. What trails are you singed up for again?

satchel
03-28-2011, 07:59 PM
BTW, your 62 will remain nice through Moab. What trails are you singed up for again?

Not really that worried about the 62 in Moab this year, just used it as a catalyst for a conversation with the wife about the need for a "trail" truck. I'm just doing chicken corners and elephant hill and stuff, nothing crazy from what I understand. I would like to get into more difficult trails though, and would rather spend the money on a decent priced 40 for that purpose.

MDH33
03-28-2011, 08:20 PM
Here you go, a set of springs and you're set, closer than CA too. '78 is the best year imho:

http://bozeman.craigslist.org/cto/2275388773.html

satchel
03-28-2011, 08:22 PM
Here you go, a set of springs and you're set, closer than CA too. '78 is the best year imho:

http://bozeman.craigslist.org/cto/2275388773.html

Good find. I think I'm going to wait a bit and see what all is out there, but keep them coming if you find something.

Old40Dog
03-28-2011, 08:56 PM
Not really that worried about the 62 in Moab this year, just used it as a catalyst for a conversation with the wife about the need for a "trail" truck. I'm just doing chicken corners and elephant hill and stuff, nothing crazy from what I understand. I would like to get into more difficult trails though, and would rather spend the money on a decent priced 40 for that purpose.

Patience grasshopper..........No worries, you could run Chicken Corners in my Lexus ES 300...and Hell's Revenge in a Crown Vic!!! I just ran Metal Masher, Seven Mile Rim and the Dome Plateau previous weekend to the WBPP on the Moab Pre-run in Idelle's stock 80 with 33's and RTT on....it was hangin' low and no bodydamage(except a bent cat slider plate on Dome Plateau, but that's what they're for). Zach will run E-Hill in his totally stock 55 on Saturday at Moab.....Go buy some sliders for the 62 if you're concerned....they'll look cool even if you don't ever touch 'em on the rocks, and look for a 40 for under $4K. You otta take someone's 40 out on the trail sometime to check it out. Who knows, you might even have a chance in Moab...stranger things have happened....Lot's of 40's are available out there in this economy...but likely not before May 1, 2011........ Remember...Breathe Deep and patience grasshopper!

Good Luck Trey with whatever direction you go! But, we'll keep an eye out for that 40 for ya!

satchel
03-29-2011, 08:11 AM
These are from the one in Craig, Co that was first posted on this thread.
Seems really rusty to me. I guess maybe things are different on what I would normally look for than perhaps people up here, just because of having grown up in Texas. There were always tons of old cars down there that were rust free (which is why I like to look in Cali, Arizona, and Texas), so I tended to go with the ones where the bodies were clean and needed a little fix up mechanically. Perhaps I should be schooled on what to be looking for, because this doesn't seem like that great a deal even at 5k.

Air Randy
03-29-2011, 10:29 AM
These are from the one in Craig, Co that was first posted on this thread.
Seems really rusty to me. I guess maybe things are different on what I would normally look for than perhaps people up here, just because of having grown up in Texas. There were always tons of old cars down there that were rust free (which is why I like to look in Cali, Arizona, and Texas), so I tended to go with the ones where the bodies were clean and needed a little fix up mechanically. Perhaps I should be schooled on what to be looking for, because this doesn't seem like that great a deal even at 5k.

You know what? You should just go buy what ever it is you want to buy. You asked for people's opinions and you got them, but they're just opinions. Get whatever you want that will make you happy.

Virtually every 40 you look at, wherever it came from and unless it has already had body work done it, will show moderate to severe rust along the rear sill, on the rear quarters, above the rear wheels, along the rocker under the doors, the running boards and the front fenders above the tires. Every one of them has at least these issues because of the crappy steel Toyota used and because of the spot welding process in those places and because they trap water/salt there. Many are much worse with the floorboard eat up, etc.

I can just about guarantee that even the CA 40 has these same rust issues to some degree, but some kid has probably smeared bondo over them. This doesn't have a lot to do with Midwest salt, all it required was water and air, so even CA/TX 40's have some degree of rusting too.

My 40 had the same rust issues you show in your pictures. On mine I just cut out the bad sill area and welded in new flat steel. I cut out the really bad rust areas around the wheel wells and put over size flares on. I then bought the outer skins from Aqualu that pop rivet over the tub and rocker panels. I patched the holes in the inner wheel wells with tin, silicon and pop rivets. I took off the stock fenders and built tube fenders to replace them. Then I sprayed it all with Harbor Blue paint from Home Depot. It's functional, looks OK, and was a cheap fix for a rig that I was more concerned about wheeling. So I put most of my money into those aspects. Since all I did was cover up the bad rust areas, it is still slowly rusting away underneath. When the tub finally rots off I'll either tube it out or put on a new tub.

If you want to restore yours to pristine condition then you will have to buy new sill pieces and probably a new 3/4 tub. But I thought you wanted something to wheel and making it pretty or restoring it was secondary?

satchel
03-29-2011, 10:36 AM
If you want to restore yours to pristine condition then you will have to buy new sill pieces and probably a new 3/4 tub. But I thought you wanted something to wheel and making it pretty or restoring it was secondary?

This is correct, just looking to wheel it really not concerned about how it looks that much. If I find one that looks good then that is a bonus. I was basically assuming that rust such as that on the body would transfer to rust on the frame meaning it wouldn't be as strong mechanically, but if this rust is the type of thing that would be on all cruisers of this generation regardless of it's location then I just need to look past it.

Please don't get me wrong, I absolutely appreciate the input. Hopefully my posts are not coming across otherwise. I would probably be in California at the moment if I didn't. It wasn't meant to be a slam at saying that this is not worth 5k, or 6k for that matter, but that I obviously need to learn more from you guys to understand how to value these things properly as I am doing a poor job on what I am looking for so far. In other words, me saying that I didn't think it was worth 5k didn't mean that it isn't, it meant that I am not looking at the right aspects of the cruiser to value it and I can really use all the help I can get to properly evaluate it.

DanS
03-29-2011, 11:09 AM
Here you go, a set of springs and you're set, closer than CA too. '78 is the best year imho:

http://bozeman.craigslist.org/cto/2275388773.html

Dang! Nice spot!

If it were me, I'd only look at pre-'79 cruisers. When the new body came out (with the square bezel and the gas tank under the body) they switched to thinner sheet metal. The amount of rust repair I've had to do on Dad's 40 (which didn't look bad at all) has been incredible. Comparing it to my Honduran '76 45, the difference is night and day (and my 45 has the disadvantage of being subjected to some really, really bad bodywork over the years). The thinner metal just allows the body to flex more, and eventually lets water get in the seams (once the seam sealer breaks off from the flexing) and you get rust.

Of course, the later model has the technical improvements (like large pattern knuckles), but that can be easily remedied with a knuckle swap if you are so inclined. I'd rather swap big heavy parts than do that much bodywork again. The 1976-1978 years seem to be the best of both worlds, IMHO. Thicker body metal, plus discs (even if small pattern) is where it's at. The stock PS isn't all that great compared to the saginaw and 60 series options, so you'd likely be doing those either way, so no big loss not having them.

Dan

satchel
03-29-2011, 11:17 AM
My understanding so far is that 76+ had the desirable drivetrain, 78+ switched to fine spline, and 78- had the thicker sheet metal, which is why everyone says the 78 is the most desirable I suppose. Perhaps I should do some looking into that one in Bozeman a little more.

RicardoJM
03-29-2011, 11:47 AM
Those detailed photos highlight why I believe it is very important to take a close look at a FJ40 before purchase. There is not a clear black and white line on what is acceptable/unacceptable, it is really varying shades of grey.

I'm sure there have been some FJ40 owners that started with a big pile of crap where the only items of value were the title and vin plate and have ended up with a nice rig. I'm sure there have also been some FJ40 owners that started out with just what they wanted and have done very little to their rigs. The key to a good purchase is to know what you are getting, have a fair idea of work (parts, time, money) it needs to become what you want and the peace of mind to know it is the right deal for you. It also helps to be very open to the inevitable suprises that will come up.

Basically, you can only go wrong if your expectations are not in line with what you get. Whatever you end up with, there is not anything you will need to do to an FJ40 that at least 100 other guys have not already done; so preety near every issue you encounter is addressable. You are very fortunate to have a strong body of FJ40 experience here in the club. I am pretty confident you will find people willing to step up and give you a hand with figuring stuff out.


I don't want to appear to be wishy/washy in the advice area, but I don't expect that what is right for me would be right for you. Off the top of my head, as you look at rigs here are some general figures to keep in mind...

Convert to front disk brakes; $300 to $800
Convert to mini-truck power steering; $300 to $700
Convert to 4 speed from 3 speed; $250 to $600
Install an Orion $1200 plus
Lift; $200 to $1700
Tires; $800-$1000
Paint; $30 to big dollars
Engine rebuild/replace; $500 to $2500
Carb rebuild; $30 to $350
New exhaust and header; $400 to $800
Body work; all over the map
Windshield; $150
Seats; $50 to $500
Soft top; $100 to $1200
Electronic ignition; $100 to $350
Getting it to pass emissions for registration; $100 and up

The figures above are for parts (not labor) and in a range because

there are different approaches each with different parts
variability in parts costs (new, junk yard, classifieds, deals you fall into)
variability with the "well while I am in there, I'll also take care of ..." aspect of any project



Everyone's exact figure will be different for any one of the items above, but most figures would likely fall somewhere in the range. It would be interesting for others to contribute some of their own perspective based upon their experience. If you have specific questions about the aspects of any one thing, all you have to do is ask and you will get some input/feedback.

satchel
03-29-2011, 12:11 PM
One more question for all. I know as far as emissions goes 82 and older only needs the 2 idle speed test I think. What if the 40 I buy has had the emissions stuff removed. Does it have to have the original equip to pass? I assume the answer is that it all needs to be there. The reason I ask is that this applies to the one in Bozeman. He says he has really let the body go over over the years rust wise, but he is sending pics.

LETSROLL
03-29-2011, 12:23 PM
Hey, if you're in the market for a rust free 40 I'm probably about to sell mine. I've had it for about 2 years. Bought it in Oregon. It has abut 82K original miles. Very clean, no body work, only slight oxidation in a very few small places. PM me if you're interested.

Thanks John

These are from the one in Craig, Co that was first posted on this thread.
Seems really rusty to me. I guess maybe things are different on what I would normally look for than perhaps people up here, just because of having grown up in Texas. There were always tons of old cars down there that were rust free (which is why I like to look in Cali, Arizona, and Texas), so I tended to go with the ones where the bodies were clean and needed a little fix up mechanically. Perhaps I should be schooled on what to be looking for, because this doesn't seem like that great a deal even at 5k.

Air Randy
03-29-2011, 12:24 PM
[QUOTE=satchel;179284]Please don't get me wrong, I absolutely appreciate the input. Hopefully my posts are not coming across otherwise. I would probably be in California at the moment if I didn't.QUOTE]

I'm not slamming you, I just want to make sure you are correctly explaining what you are really looking for.

As you can see, there are many different opinions. Some people would rather search for the better, rust free body because they like to do mechanical work instead of body work. Some want mechanical perfection but like to do the body work instead.

My understanding is your priorities are: Staying within your 5000 to 5500 budget; getting a rig that wheels pretty good; looks arent too important as you are going to bash it and not worry about a restoration. Correct?

If so, the key part is your budget. You can buy the oldest 40 out there and upgrade the axles to disc brakes, longfields, large pattern knuckles, high steer, lift kits, install Orion transfer case, saginaw steering, etc. But you will spend 8K to 10K easy doing it. AMHIK :D. If you dont want to spend money right away on mechanical upgrades, get the vehicle that has the better/stronger drive train components to start with. Guess what? Whether it is old or new it's going to have rust, lots of it, when your looking to buy in the 5K price range. And even if you get the newer style drive train, stuff will still break, wear out and/or fall off. It is a 40 after all.

If you get a rig with a good motor/clutch/tc, disc brakes, stronger axles, etc that fits in your budget, then all you need to add is a $200 lift kit, some 33's and your locker and you're good to go. For now. As budget and desire permits you can add more upgrades and body work in the future.

satchel
03-29-2011, 12:36 PM
Hey, if you're in the market for a rust free 40 I'm probably about to sell mine. I've had it for about 2 years. Bought it in Oregon. It has abut 82K original miles. Very clean, no body work, only slight oxidation in a very few small places. PM me if you're interested.

Thanks John

PM sent

LETSROLL
03-29-2011, 12:40 PM
PM Replied

PM sent

satchel
03-29-2011, 12:47 PM
My understanding is your priorities are: Staying within your 5000 to 5500 budget; getting a rig that wheels pretty good; looks arent too important as you are going to bash it and not worry about a restoration. Correct?

If so, the key part is your budget. You can buy the oldest 40 out there and upgrade the axles to disc brakes, longfields, large pattern knuckles, high steer, lift kits, install Orion transfer case, saginaw steering, etc. But you will spend 8K to 10K easy doing it. AMHIK :D. If you dont want to spend money right away on mechanical upgrades, get the vehicle that has the better/stronger drive train components to start with. Guess what? Whether it is old or new it's going to have rust, lots of it, when your looking to buy in the 5K price range. And even if you get the newer style drive train, stuff will still break, wear out and/or fall off. It is a 40 after all.

If you get a rig with a good motor/clutch/tc, disc brakes, stronger axles, etc that fits in your budget, then all you need to add is a $200 lift kit, some 33's and your locker and you're good to go. For now. As budget and desire permits you can add more upgrades and body work in the future.

You are correct on what I am looking for. So specifically, the list goes something like this as far as priorities (now that I have my new found info from all of you):

78 model, bonus if it has power steering
78+
76+
already has lift or can have one added and still be at the 5-5.5 range
Completely sound frame, don't want to be welding something up that is weak because of rust or other issues
rust on body ok, but would obviously rather that be minimal
original drivetrain to prevent surprises

Can someone chime in on if all the emissions equip has to be there on one of these for me to get it inspected, or would it pass without it being the test is less stringent than newer vehicles?

corsair23
03-29-2011, 01:00 PM
Can someone chime in on if all the emissions equip has to be there on one of these for me to get it inspected, or would it pass without it being the test is less stringent than newer vehicles?

IIRC is depends...It depends on how closely the person doing the inspection checks and knows what should be on the vehicle as stock from the factory. My '74 for instance, didn't have anything on it really and passed because the "kid" didn't really have a clue what it should have and IMO didn't really care. It passed the sniffer test and away I went. This was 5+ years ago and I've never been back because of the Collector plates (one bonus of the older rigs).

Seems like many find themselves searching for emissions equip so their rigs can pass the visual test. Often times the equipment isn't working, but it is present on the rig.

Air Randy
03-29-2011, 01:17 PM
I agree with Jeff, it's better to be safe and get one that has everything in place, even if it isn't working. That way you pass the visual.

I can tell you that on my 1974 it passed the sniffer test with all emission stuff either removed, inoperative, and 5 cylinders at 90 psi and one at 20 psi :D. The carb had just been rebuilt by JimC though.

If the rig is old enough to qualify for collector plates it's worth it to get them since you only have to do emissions tests every 5 years.

wesintl
03-29-2011, 01:26 PM
sounds like you should buy a mini truck :D

MDH33
03-29-2011, 01:28 PM
sounds like you should buy a mini truck :D

I'm still amazed that this thread hasn't turned into the typical - "you don't wan't an old rig/40. Just sell your 62, forget the 40 and buy an 80. It'll do everything you want right from the factory and is more comfortable blah blah blah..." :blah:

:hill:

MDH33
03-29-2011, 01:31 PM
If the rig is old enough to qualify for collector plates it's worth it to get them since you only have to do emissions tests every 5 years.

Has this changed? I thought that you only needed emissions once to get the plates, then you didn't have to retest as long as you own the rig. :confused:

wesintl
03-29-2011, 01:38 PM
only on the old old rusty POS 40's ;)

MDH33
03-29-2011, 01:44 PM
only on the old old rusty POS 40's ;)

Sweet, I'm set then. :thumb:

corsair23
03-29-2011, 02:49 PM
Has this changed? I thought that you only needed emissions once to get the plates, then you didn't have to retest as long as you own the rig. :confused:

Only change I know was to the age/year of the vehicle - After the change in 2009, only vehicles that are model year 1975 or older qualify for collector plates (unless they were registered as such before the change) - just renewed my collector plates and no test :D

So, for a new owner interested in collector plates and one time emissions testing would need to look at 1975 or older rigs...

DMV Collector Plates (http://www.colorado.gov/cs/Satellite/Revenue-MV/RMV/1185870965443)

Jacket
03-29-2011, 03:01 PM
For a Moab wheelin' rig, I'd rather drive the 62. :dunno:

MDH33
03-29-2011, 03:30 PM
For a Moab wheelin' rig, I'd rather drive the 62. :dunno:

That's because you're a soft 80 driver now. :p:

Air Randy
03-29-2011, 03:40 PM
For a Moab wheelin' rig, I'd rather drive the 62. :dunno:

Yeah, but your the same guy that wants to kill everyone on the planet to fix the dog pollution problem :D

Air Randy
03-29-2011, 03:44 PM
Has this changed? I thought that you only needed emissions once to get the plates, then you didn't have to retest as long as you own the rig. :confused:

I was told by the clerk at DMV that you had to re-test when you renewed the plates, thats why for me the collector plates were a good option.

I agree with jeff though. After reading various web sites it's clear that you only emission test once when you get collector plates. As long as you don't allow them to expire, no further e test required. If you sell the vehicle the new owner has to get an e test.

wesintl
03-29-2011, 04:10 PM
that's the case. My 64 was due last year after 5 years and I only paid for another 5 year sticker. No emmissions.

Uncle Ben
03-29-2011, 04:51 PM
that's the case. My 64 was due last year after 5 years and I only paid for another 5 year sticker. No emmissions.

ditto two years ago....

Jacket
03-29-2011, 05:04 PM
That's because you're a soft 80 driver now. :p:

You'll get to a 4 seater at some point Matt. Just wait until your little one (ones?) are a bit bigger. :)

Yeah, but your the same guy that wants to kill everyone on the planet to fix the dog pollution problem :D

I'd spare the guy with a new hoist. ;)

subzali
03-29-2011, 09:48 PM
No way, did you just call him MATT!? :gaah:



;)

MDH33
03-30-2011, 01:16 PM
You'll get to a 4 seater at some point Matt. Just wait until your little one (ones?) are a bit bigger. :)


Maybe trade in the 40 towards a troopie, but no mall cruisers for me, thanks.

No way, did you just call him MATT!? :gaah:

;)

I'm actually going by Mark these days. :hill:

MDH33
03-30-2011, 01:17 PM
Check this out, up in WA state. '78 with factory AC and original paint. :cool: I'm tempted to go up there myself.

http://yakima.craigslist.org/cto/2276144317.html

Jacket
03-30-2011, 02:57 PM
I like how "rust" and "air conditioning" are the only two features. Definitely seems like a truck to go after.

MDH33
03-30-2011, 03:06 PM
I like how "rust" and "air conditioning" are the only two features. Definitely seems like a truck to go after.

The rust IS the air conditioning on most 40's. :hill: