View Full Version : Battery Isolator problems......
07-10-2011, 10:45 AM
So yesterday on my way to the air show in Rifle my 5.3L v8 converted 1984 fj60 TLC gave a loud pop and suddenly stopped running. Left me stranded on the side of i-70. Got it towed to my friends shop and determined that it was the alternator. Replaced it and that was not the only problem, replaced the battery isolator and it seem to be working fine. After getting everything re-installed i started popping the engine fuse. Currently I have bypassed the isolator and the second battery and it seems to be working fine.
Any ideas? What am i missing?
Thanks in advance.
07-10-2011, 01:58 PM
OK i take it back it is not running without the isolator. Drove to the grocery store today and needed a jump start to get home. Thinking i might have some sort of short behind the dash. Heard an audible clicking noise when the AC was on. Barely made it back home. With engine back firing and trying to stall. Both batteries register 12V, 14V at the back of alternator 14V at the isolator. In dash guage reads between 8V and 10V.
07-13-2011, 08:02 PM
OK just jump started the TLC and tested the starting battery at 8V and the Alternator at 8V is it possible that a short somewhere could case the brand new alternator to fail?
07-14-2011, 10:32 AM
You have a good clean ground on both correct?
07-14-2011, 12:52 PM
Yes checked all of the grounds. No problems there.
totally stumped right now.
07-14-2011, 01:14 PM
Fusible link still good?
07-15-2011, 08:25 PM
So just put in the second new alternator.... truck runs great able to turn everything on no problems..... until i went to turn it off..... think I have a bad ignition switch:rant: Can't wait to see if my local toyota dealer has anything like that in stock.:(
08-12-2011, 03:30 PM
Think this is my problem is this a fusible link?
Three wires on the right side are completely fused together. One of them is labeled Full Time Battery Power (ECM)
vBulletin® v3.7.1, Copyright ©2000-2016, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.