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View Full Version : Hydraulic press/bushing question


coax
07-27-2011, 12:29 PM
I am going to be replacing my rear panhard bushings and front caster bushings, and maybe some others, in the near future. Since I'm far away from most shops that don't charge an arm/leg, I'm thinking of buying a press.

Would a 12ton be sufficient for these jobs? It would probably be harbor freight brand since thats what seems to be on craigslist for reasonable prices...

powderpig
07-27-2011, 12:34 PM
I use the 20 ton HF press for my travel press. It works well for most things. I would not think a 12 ton would work, at home Kevin's 40t press some times takes close to 25t to move the castor bushing at times. But so far the 20 ton has worked. I guess you could always cut out the rubber and use a Hack saw to remove the metal sleeve on the inside. To install usually takes a whole lot less, like 3-5 ton.
Robbie

Beater
07-27-2011, 12:34 PM
maybe.
if you can weld anywhere that you don't need adjustability on the frame, that helps as well.

OilHammer
07-27-2011, 12:48 PM
I used the 20 ton HF to do mine. The main key is keeping everything perfectly square to reduce the pressures. BTW, the club has a set of spare arms that I have in my garage.

coax
07-27-2011, 01:08 PM
I use the 20 ton HF press for my travel press. It works well for most things. I would not think a 12 ton would work, at home Kevin's 40t press some times takes close to 25t to move the castor bushing at times. But so far the 20 ton has worked. I guess you could always cut out the rubber and use a Hack saw to remove the metal sleeve on the inside. To install usually takes a whole lot less, like 3-5 ton.
Robbie

Ok thanks Robbie. I'll look around for a 20 ton. If I can't find one for a reasonable price maybe I'll just pay you to press the bushings, since you're not too far down the road. :D

maybe.
if you can weld anywhere that you don't need adjustability on the frame, that helps as well.

Is this just to keep parts of the frame from flexing under heavy load?

I used the 20 ton HF to do mine. The main key is keeping everything perfectly square to reduce the pressures. BTW, the club has a set of spare arms that I have in my garage.

Good tips, thanks! With any luck the turn around time will be quick, and I don't use the cruiser as a DD, so I should be ok on the arms. Though I am a bit nervous that the slee bushings will cause some vibes compared to the OME's (due to the lift geometry)....

Beater
07-27-2011, 02:06 PM
vibes are hit and miss. some get them, some don't. some go away with a dc shaft, some don't. You WILL increase suspension feel/vibration resonance as you change the durometer of the bushings.

WHOLE new can of worms this discussion is... (yoda voice off)

coax
08-09-2011, 03:43 PM
Anybody have any tips on random bits of metal that work well to press the panhard bushings in/out? I've got one socket that would work well to press the new ones in, but nothing that is just slightly smaller than the bushing to press it out. I looked through my box of old races and bearnings but no luck there.

I pulled the panhard out today (luckily no issues there) so now the next step is to find some spacers to get the old bushings out.

Beater
08-09-2011, 08:51 PM
iirc - the sleeves from a ball joint press work..