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View Full Version : akingf5371's New '82 FJ40, emission help and other advice needed


akingf5371
08-30-2011, 11:25 PM
Due to a few suggestions about starting my own thread to catalog the advice and organize the responses I went ahead and did it.

I recently purchased and '82 FJ40 from California. I am the 3rd owner. Here is the quick rundown. 80k+ miles, no rust and is in pretty good shape. The 1st owner removed the stock carb, air cleaner and all emissions parts. The 2nd owner added a Currie rear end (3:25), a leaf from the rear springs, and disconnected the front drive shaft. I bought it for $16k, which he included the old axle (3:73) the front drive shaft and a lot of things he had from owning it.
Here are a few pictures:
http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/7357/img7228iz.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/690/img7228iz.jpg/)
http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/5766/engine4.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/52/engine4.jpg/)
http://img842.imageshack.us/img842/715/engine1u.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/842/engine1u.jpg/)
http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/7079/img6963y.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/508/img6963y.jpg/)

My biggest concern is that I have just moved to Denver and now I have to go through the emissions testing and repair the previous "improvements" Thanks to a few helpful forum members I am being steered in the correct direction. Here is the list of what I need so far. (props to subzali)
-Carb
-Air pump
-Air Rail
-Air Bypass Valve (ABV)
-High Altitude Compensation (HAC) valve
-Vacuum Control Valves (VCVs)
-Vacuum Switching Valves (VSVs)
-2 Bimetal VSVs (BVSVs)
-Vacuum Transfer Valve(s) (VTV)
-Charcoal Canister
-EGR Cooler
-EGR Valve
I also am planning on installing the old rear end, but I don't have the tools to do so (still waiting on my stuff to arrive from AR) Any help or advice on that would be appreciated. Thanks guys.

TIMZTOY
08-31-2011, 06:36 AM
also cant use tires bigger than 33's
just a FYI :thumb:

subzali
08-31-2011, 07:17 AM
I guess that leads to another question - in 1982 was there a difference between California emissions required equipment and Federal emissions required equipment? I don't think so, I think they consolidated it all by then, but maybe someone knows for sure?

treerootCO
08-31-2011, 07:41 AM
also cant use tires bigger than 33's
just a FYI :thumb:

Timztoy is right...didn't realize 81 was the cutoff.
1984 to 1982 dyne test - 1981 & older tail-pipe test - 1975 & older no test
All dyne tests require 33s or smaller because their equipment can't handle larger tires. Keep in mind the dyne tests were created to test your vehicle under real world conditions so changing to a smaller tire kind of defeats their logic.

Call the Toyota document folks and request the emissions manual for your year. The book covers both Federal and California emissions. Lots of diagrams and pictures.

Toyota Publications @ (800) 622-2033

40 & 60 Series Emissions Manual - 8/80-8/87
24915

-Carb My dad has part of one you could probably rebuild.
-Air pump - I have a core you can use when you buy a new one
-Air Rail - I have one
-Air Bypass Valve (ABV) - I think this is the Anti Backfire Valve and I have one

Not sure on these but if they are still on the engines I have...
-High Altitude Compensation (HAC) valve
-Vacuum Control Valves (VCVs)
-Vacuum Switching Valves (VSVs)
-2 Bimetal VSVs (BVSVs)
-Vacuum Transfer Valve(s) (VTV)

-Charcoal Canister - I have one
-EGR Cooler - I have one
-EGR Valve - I have one

You also mentioned on the other thread you have headers. There are CARB compliant headers or I have the exhaust manifold you need.

rover67
08-31-2011, 07:54 AM
Nice rig, looks awesome!

Man, I'd say take a look at my 40 or a stock 60 and get a visual on what you need with somebody that can point stuff out (you may have some of the things listed already) Then head over to mike's to pick through his stuff first. I bet after that you'll be a lot closer than you think. It'll be nice to have it back to factory anyways seeing as it is such a perfect looking truck.

BTW also looks like you need the manifold for the vacuum lines that bolts to the top of the intake manifold.

Air Randy
08-31-2011, 08:26 AM
Are you trying to restore this to full OEM condition or are you adding all of this stuff simply to pass emissions?

If the latter, I would first take it to one of the service centers that can tune your rig to pass and just have them do a basic test on it to see if it passes the emissions part. If it can be tuned to pass, I would go ahead and take it in for a test. The worse that can happen is they fail it on visual inspection and you can move ahead with getting your list of parts.

rover67
08-31-2011, 08:33 AM
I have a .pdf of that manual I can try to dig up. PM Me your email if you'd like it.

Randy also has a good point, you may get lucky and slip through.

treerootCO
08-31-2011, 08:40 AM
I have a .pdf of that manual I can try to dig up. PM Me your email if you'd like it.

Randy also has a good point, you may get lucky and slip through.

http://daemon4x4.org/portal/downloads.php?dcid=15

There is a torrent on page one in the link above ;)

Name: 2F Engine Emission Control System - 1981
Description: Information on the emissions control system for the 2F engine
Licence: OS types:

RedCreeper
08-31-2011, 08:49 AM
good thing you dont live in Weld county. darn rookies.....

treerootCO
08-31-2011, 09:18 AM
good thing you dont live in Weld county. darn rookies.....

"The Enhanced Vehicle Emissions testing program expanded from the Denver area to parts of Larimer and Weld Counties in late 2010, to control ground-level ozone. The Air Pollution Control Division made the following presentation during the public hearing that provides the regulatory and scientific basis for expanding the program to the north Front Range.

Why is the emissions program coming back now? As a single geographic "basin," the entire Northern Front Range and Denver area suffers from elevated levels of ground-level ozone air pollution. Ozone is a respiratory health hazard, formed in the atmosphere by emissions from vehicles, industry and oil and gas production. These emissions and the ozone they form are transported widely across this geographic area. Industry and the oil and gas businesses have made significant investments in emissions controls in recent years. This vehicle emissions testing program has been in place in the Denver area since 1995. Now it is time for individual vehicles in Larimer and Weld counties to contribute to emissions reductions."

Rezarf
08-31-2011, 09:43 AM
Are you trying to restore this to full OEM condition or are you adding all of this stuff simply to pass emissions?

If the latter, I would first take it to one of the service centers that can tune your rig to pass and just have them do a basic test on it to see if it passes the emissions part. If it can be tuned to pass, I would go ahead and take it in for a test. The worse that can happen is they fail it on visual inspection and you can move ahead with getting your list of parts.

I agree with Randy. Getting it puffing clean, then take it in... they didn't open the hood on mine, never even took a peek. Also, go at the end of the month when they are slammed, you might wait a little longer but they seem to be in a hurry as well and might "overlook" some of the visual stuff.

FWIW, I have a box of emmissions stuff on the shelf in the garage. If you need to bolt it all on for a visual inspection, I have most of what you will need.

By the way... awesome looking cruiser!

The HULK is back! :D

Hulk
08-31-2011, 12:03 PM
By the way... awesome looking cruiser!

The HULK is back! :D

No kidding -- I had to look carefully to determine that it wasn't my old 40 (which I sold to a guy in California). It even has the same front bumper!

Very nice 40. :thumb:

akingf5371
08-31-2011, 01:10 PM
I am floored by the help I've been given! Rover and treeroot you guys rock!
So, I do want to return it all back the original, but that is secondary to getting it registered. Does anyone have any suggestions on where to get it tuned to pass? (I just moved to Denver last Wednesday.) Treeroot, I PMed you about all the pieces. I really need to get the original rear end put back in it, (it is in the back of the 40 now, I had to remove the passenger seat) Does anyone have any suggestions on who to take it to in/around Denver? (I would love to do it myself, but I don't have the tools or experience) Thanks again for all your help

corsair23
08-31-2011, 01:24 PM
Not to add more to your plate, but there are some additional steps you'll need to take to title and register a vehicle purchased out of state...I don't remember all of the steps when I registered my '74 FJ40 from California but I do recall having to have the local police (county deputy in my case) come out and do a VIN check. Not sure if they still come to you or if you have to take it to them. Check out the DMV website for details because you only have a certain amount of time to get everything done...

As for where to take it to get the rear end swapped (are we talking the whole axle or just the 3rd?) there are several in the club that could probably help you out and they will cost less - There are a few FJ40 specialists in the area including Joe Calleja up in Conifer and Rocky Mountain Cruisers in town (although it seems the jury is still out re: the new owners @ RMC)

Personally, I'd call/PM Robbie first and see what his availability is and go from there...

http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showthread.php?t=10843

DanS
08-31-2011, 01:34 PM
You do need a physical VIN check.

It was a pain for my sister in town, but it is a breeze here in Clear Creek. The sheriff's office is in the same building, so very easy. In fact, so easy that my sister just drove her vehicle up the hill just to get the VIN check.

Swapping the rear end (whether full axle or just the third member) is a one day job, can be done in a driveway with some jackstands. I'm SURE that you can do better than taking it "to a shop" to get it done. x2 on checking Robbie's availability first.

That is a very nice looking 40!

Dan

treerootCO
08-31-2011, 01:55 PM
I get my vin checks done at the emissions place now. $15 and no
hassle like trying to schedule a meeting with the State Patrol. Don't forget the $100 Ritter tax, I mean 'fee', if you don't register your vehicle in a timely manner. I believe 30 days is the timer.

akingf5371
08-31-2011, 02:37 PM
Ok, seems like I have a lot of registering to do, I have my two trucks and my gf's car.. I'd love to PM Robbie, what is his user name? Thanks for the compliments, hope to make some improvements soon! I'm pretty sure it's the whole axle.

rover67
08-31-2011, 02:44 PM
Robbie is "powderpig" on the forum.

I was able to bring our new vehicles here and take care of everything at the DMV AFTER going to the Air Care (emissions) place and doing emissions and vin checks. Air Care did vin checks for me for a fee but it was easy since the vehicle was there anyways getting emissions tested. It made it a two stop deal, so pretty easy.

Got any pics of the axle?

akingf5371
09-03-2011, 06:44 PM
Update on the 40!

So, it arrived Thursday and I've been driving it around, this thing is a blast to drive! Looking forward to getting it trail ready and really enjoying what it was made for!. Well, I know have a pretty long list of things I need to do to get her ready.

1) Need to put the original 3.73 axle back in, and get it out of the back of the crusier. I have limited supplies for this, Marco gave me the bolts I need for the front drive shaft but he noticed I need the original flange to bolt the rear drive shaft to the differential and some e-brake work. If anyone wants to help a newbie out with a Sunday project I'd be grateful!

2)I've taken note of all the emission pieces I'm missing, if Mike or Matt are around Denver tomorrow I could swing by and gather the pieces I need to try and make this thing work.

Those are the first two big steps I need and after that I have a list of some things I'd love to do, but small steps first. So, if anyone can help a brother out, send me a PM or shoot me a call (six-Oh-one) 466-1661.:cheers:

Jacket
09-06-2011, 05:19 PM
Were you up in north Boulder yesterday? My wife saw a nice late model green 40 that looked a bit like yours near the IBM compound.

akingf5371
09-06-2011, 06:18 PM
Yesterday? No. I haven't been near Boulder since I visited Marco last Friday. I've been mostly around downtown Denver. I did see a early model dark green 40 in Cherry Creek the other day. It's funny how excited I get when I see a smililar one.

rover67
09-21-2011, 08:24 AM
How's the project coming?

akingf5371
09-21-2011, 03:24 PM
Hey Marco,
Well, I've been working in ND for the past 2 weeks, so I've just creeping on IH8mud and a few other places looking for parts.
For the emissions part of the project, I've acquired a smog pump, air cleaner (thanks Matt!), air rail (Thanks Marco!) big ole box of FJ60 smog equipment including carb that I haven't gone through yet, and I'm in the middle of buying the center console/heater. I'm still short some hoses and gas pedal assembly, Dan says he has most everything, and a guy on IH8 has it as well.
For the axle I am kind of at a stand still, I still haven't figured out how/when to get the axle swapped. I was hoping I could get it done while I was out here, since it seems these jobs in ND take 3-4 weeks, but as of yet no plans.
So, that is the state of the LC, lots of plans, little to no action. I did buy a cover and a few small bits and pieces from coolcruisers, and the GF covered her up, so it's just hanging out.

akingf5371
09-28-2011, 10:35 PM
Hey guys, I was curious if someone could answer a few questions about the OEM wheels that might have come on my truck. I really want to go back to the white ones, I think they look great and want a more original look. So, does anyone know which ones came on this truck? The white wagon wheel looking ones? I know there are differences for each brake styles, what is a good way to tell? I found these on good ole Craig's List.
http://boulder.craigslist.org/pts/2590085866.html
Thoughts? Also, if anyone is interested in trading a set of 5 original white ones for the chrome/polished ones that I have now that would also work.

subzali
09-29-2011, 07:00 AM
Adam, those wheels in your link are the common wagon wheels seen on earlier cruisers. They aren't factory, but they were a common dealer add-on back in the day, so they're almost more common than the factory wheels.

The factory wheels for your late model FJ40 can be seen in these pictures:
http://risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showthread.php?t=8425&highlight=hulk

I believe they are the same as the FJ60 wheels, only painted white. Though some FJ40s did come with these wheels in factory chrome.

rover67
09-29-2011, 07:55 AM
I got some FJ60 wheels for my ruck and painted them white. I think that's what came originally on them.

Hulk
09-29-2011, 12:30 PM
Marco and Matt are both steering you in the right direction. And I agree: FJ60 wheels will be easier to find. The downside is that the original wheels are only 6.5" wide. If you want to run 33 x 12.50 tires, you'd be better off with a wider rim.

akingf5371
09-29-2011, 05:57 PM
Okay. Thanks guys that is good info. So, that brings me to my next question. I really like the white wheel look, but since these tires won't fit, looks like I'm stuck with my current setup for the time being. Are there any benefits with the larger (wider) tire size? Pros/Cons for going back to the original?
Also, Marco - Did you paint the stock FJ60 chrome rims? I found some for $300.00 w/o shipping on IH8Mud, was thinking of jumping on that.

rover67
09-29-2011, 08:13 PM
300 sounds steep for a set of wheels especially if you are going to paint them......

I had a set of stock fj60 wheels that I took to the powdercoaters and had them sand blast them and powdercoat them the original white/off white color.

you should be able to find a set of 60 rims much cheaper than that. may want to try yota jims.... its a junk yard in denver that specializes in toyota stuff, they usually have several 60's.


What width are your tires?

wesintl
09-29-2011, 08:30 PM
http://rockies.craigslist.org/pts/2616456843.html

I like the outlaws you have on there. It all depends on the lift and tires you're running.

Jacket
09-30-2011, 08:49 AM
Check these out. $100.

http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/2621246635.html

akingf5371
10-02-2011, 02:20 AM
Jacket -
Thanks man! I'm in contact.
All-
I'm parting with my 33x12.5 Firestone Destination A/Ts. Here is a link to the MUD post (http://forum.ih8mud.com/tires-wheels/521831-co-set-5-33x12-5r-108r-firestone-destination-t-tires.html) about it. I'll be posting this in the For Sale section as well. Also, Marco pointed out that my locking hub on my passenger's side was leaking, and I've noticed it's gotten worse. Advice?

rover67
10-02-2011, 06:53 AM
post up a picture or two of the hub and the swivel ball on the axle.

akingf5371
10-02-2011, 06:29 PM
So... when you say swivel ball... what part are you referring to? :D

akingf5371
10-06-2011, 05:04 AM
Update! Finally (after getting shipped to my parents house) I have my big box of emission things! Wanted to share some pictures. I have a smog pump as well, and an air cleaner. Besides the big hoses, some more smaller hoses and such, I should be just about there! I just need to get back home and start working! More pictures to follow. I can't seem to find the EGR Vacuum modulator. Maybe its in the baggy. I'll have to get the GF to take some more pictures

akingf5371
10-06-2011, 05:18 AM
more!

subzali
10-06-2011, 07:12 AM
Looks like you're well under way! Hope those all work out for you!

rover67
10-06-2011, 09:55 AM
cool! it looks like fun!!!

let me know if you need help, we can use mine as a model!

akingf5371
10-06-2011, 05:47 PM
Matt-
Thanks! I've had pretty good luck on the mud forums finding the parts I needed. I also will probably have some extra of the little blue valves and such, I know you need a few so once I get it in I might be able to repay some kindness.
Marco-
Thanks! I've been digging through those pictures from that day and realized I should have taken so many more. I did find some online that help, but I will be contacting you I'm sure.

akingf5371
10-16-2011, 11:40 AM
So, I still haven't had time to work on the emissions parts yet, but I have another side project that I am also working on. From what people have been saying about Co, I think it might get kind of chilly in the winter, so I bought a rear heater to go in the truck. This is what I snagged. It's been painted so I was going to strip it back down to the original plastic. Does anyone have any suggestions/recommended products? I know I am missing the ashtray, I might find something else to put there.

Rzeppa
10-18-2011, 01:35 PM
I guess that leads to another question - in 1982 was there a difference between California emissions required equipment and Federal emissions required equipment? I don't think so, I think they consolidated it all by then, but maybe someone knows for sure?

That's right, from 1980-up Kalifornia and Fed used the same stuff...

Rzeppa
10-18-2011, 01:40 PM
Are you trying to restore this to full OEM condition or are you adding all of this stuff simply to pass emissions?

If the latter, I would first take it to one of the service centers that can tune your rig to pass and just have them do a basic test on it to see if it passes the emissions part. If it can be tuned to pass, I would go ahead and take it in for a test. The worse that can happen is they fail it on visual inspection and you can move ahead with getting your list of parts.

That's right. You don't need everything to pass visual, and you only need some stuff to pass what comes out the tailpipe.

For the visual you need:

Smog pump (full AI system), must look like it is working
EGR system (Doesn't need to work to pass)
Cat (needs to be there and be working to pass)
Small fuel filler neck for unleaded

And the fuel filler cap needs to seal well. No vented caps allowed.

I'm surprised this was a kalifornia truck, their CARB is notorious!

akingf5371
10-18-2011, 02:26 PM
I'm taking it all back to OEM, I hear the Aisin carb is the best for wheelin. I have most of everything to get it back working. Yeah, the guy had some deal setup with a local Land Cruiser mechanic that got it approved and allowed him to get his license plates.

akingf5371
11-06-2011, 02:48 PM
Update! Alright, so I'm finally headed back to Denver after working in ND for the past 8 weeks. I was looking for a little advice in how to tackle this project. I am looking to get all the smog stuff strapped on, but I'm going to need to do a little modification. I have after marker (SOR?) exhaust headers and for the EGR tube I'm going to need to just tap into the 6th cylinder. I need to take it to an exhaust shop to do this. Should this be the first step? before strapping on the new carb and everything else? Would anyone be interested in coming down to Denver (Capitol Hill Area) and giving it a look-see and maybe we can form a plan of attack? Beers and or hot cider as a form of payment?

akingf5371
11-10-2011, 06:38 PM
A few pictures cataloging all of my parts. I have acquired far too many hoses and emissions valves it would seem! Oh well, I'm sure I'll find a use for them at some point. The rear heater is in rough shape, but just needs some TLC.

subzali
11-10-2011, 06:50 PM
Hey Adam, I see nobody has responded to your thread in a bit. I prefer the Aisan carb in general for the F/2F, but that's only based on what I've read from knowledgeable people on the internet, and I've never run another carb, as mine is an Aisan.

If you look on the top of your carb (air horn), stamped near the front will be a series of letters and numbers. You can use those to tell the build date of your carb. Can you post up what those are?

I just had a thought - on a 40 during the years when A/C was optional, did the carb only come with the A/C idle-up components if the vehicle was equipped with A/C, or were they all built the same and something else was done about the A/C provisions on the carb if the vehicle wasn't equipped with A/C?

Adam, it looks like you have a good pile of parts, have you gone down the list to make sure you have everything you'll need? Are you lacking anything?

On your exhaust, first you'll have to find out if the EGR cooler will even fit up with your headers that are installed. If not you may be looking at having to get a stock exhaust manifold or headers that are EGR compatible.

akingf5371
11-10-2011, 10:03 PM
Hey Adam, I see nobody has responded to your thread in a bit. I prefer the Aisan carb in general for the F/2F, but that's only based on what I've read from knowledgeable people on the internet, and I've never run another carb, as mine is an Aisan.

If you look on the top of your carb (air horn), stamped near the front will be a series of letters and numbers. You can use those to tell the build date of your carb. Can you post up what those are?

I just had a thought - on a 40 during the years when A/C was optional, did the carb only come with the A/C idle-up components if the vehicle was equipped with A/C, or were they all built the same and something else was done about the A/C provisions on the carb if the vehicle wasn't equipped with A/C?

Adam, it looks like you have a good pile of parts, have you gone down the list to make sure you have everything you'll need? Are you lacking anything?

On your exhaust, first you'll have to find out if the EGR cooler will even fit up with your headers that are installed. If not you may be looking at having to get a stock exhaust manifold or headers that are EGR compatible.

Yeah, I've come to the conclusion that the Aisan is the way to go myself. The only numbers I found stamped are 5017, I've included the blurry picture here. Looks like 5017? I really haven't seen any A/C idle components on this carb, but I could easily have missed it. I think I have everything, I have two kind of rusty check valves, one that connects the ACV and the other that is on the end of the pipe underneath that whole thing. Is there a way to check them? They look pretty rough, I also am short quite a few bolts to bolt everything together, I was thinking NAPA or Fastenal for that. I haven't looked too much into the exhaust, I was hoping a custom exhaust place would be able to handle that request. I also need a ton of 7mm hose, can I get a roll of that at NAPA as well?

subzali
11-11-2011, 07:29 AM
Adam, the carb numbers should be stamped above where the 5017 is, on the top of the carb. The 5017 doesn't mean anything with regard to the build date.

I *think* the A/C idle-up diaphragm is shown here on the upper left-hand side (from this view):
http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/4140/aisan001ac4.jpg

It has a rod that attaches to the primary throttle shaft shown on the bottom left side of the carb in this picture:
http://www.sor.com/shared2010/image/042/042-01M-3.jpg

Do you have accelerator pedal and linkage parts?

Do you have the carb insulating base as shown here?
http://www.sor.com/shared/image/042-01H.jpg

Good luck with your rear axle as well! Hope your plan works out ok! :thumb:

subzali
11-11-2011, 10:32 AM
Oh, and I think the hose is 6mm (check that though), which can be ordered from McMaster-Carr and lengths can be had from Toyota as well (search MUD).

On the bolts, Toyota uses JIS bolts, which have finer thread pitches and smaller heads than most other types of metric fasteners. Some folks have had luck at Fastenal finding these, but I usually go to AAA Metric and buy bags of hardware. Bring a list though, or better yet email them a list ahead of time and plan with them on a time when you can pick up your order. Give yourself a day or so.

And I would DEFINITELY make sure your exhaust will work with the EGR before making any modifications. You could sell your header if needed if it's not hacked into; it will be harder to sell if it's been messed with.

akingf5371
11-11-2011, 06:09 PM
Yeah, I have the A/C idle up diaphragm, but I haven't had any luck with the numbers. I figured out it wasn't 5017 but 5D17 which probably still doesn't help. What kind of list do I need to bring? (This is all new to me) As far as the EGR goes I was going to just bring in the cooler and explain the situation, does this not seem right? Yeah I have the accelerator and linkage, but they were CRAZY rusty from the guy I bought them from so I've been going at them with the wire brush, but doesn't seem to help all that much. I have the insulating base.

subzali
11-12-2011, 09:22 AM
5D17 = April 17, 1985. :thumb:

The list I was referring to was just a suggestion for your own benefit, to make sure you have everything.

My concern with the headers is that they fit too tight to the block to allow the EGR cooler to fit between them and the block.

akingf5371
11-12-2011, 02:48 PM
The EGR tube? Yeah, now that you mention it, it will be more than likely a tight fit. Looks like I'm headed back to work before I really have a chance to put anything into the 40, I fly out on Monday. I've attached a picture of the throttle linkage, I've been trying to get these clean for the last few days along with cleaning and painting the air cleaner. Small steps it seems..

Rzeppa
11-17-2011, 11:01 AM
On the bolts, Toyota uses JIS bolts, which have finer thread pitches and smaller heads than most other types of metric fasteners. Some folks have had luck at Fastenal finding these

JIS have the same thread pitches as DIN/ISO. The only difference is in the hex dimensions. Most hardware stores only sell DIN/ISO, which will have 13mm hexes for an M12 fastener, etc. I buy mine in the 100 lot from Fastenal; they have outlets all over town. I also buy extensively from Stevinson West.

subzali
11-17-2011, 11:26 AM
You're right Jeff, what I meant was that JIS fasteners typically use the finer thread pitch as compared to other "standard" thread pitches. See here:
http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Measuring/Metric-Thread-Pitch.aspx

akingf5371
11-19-2011, 08:07 PM
Any smog pump experts out there? I have one I scooped up from mud and I'm curious if it needs to be rebuilt. Any good ways to tell? I turn it and it turns easily but makes a small scraping sound, from what I've read this is fairly normal. Any thoughts?

Rzeppa
11-23-2011, 11:38 AM
Adam, I wouldn't say I'm an expert but I have had plenty of good pumps and plenty of bad ones. The bad ones usually get siezed in my experience, and good ones turn freely and make a thoooomp thoooomp sound each time the vane passes by the hill inside. You should be able to feel a little breeze on your face each time it passes when you turn it by hand and point the outlet to your face.

The manual actually has wear spec for the vanes inside.

rover67
11-23-2011, 12:30 PM
Yeah, I'm not really sure what the spec is for a good one, but the ones I've had that were on vehicles that passed emissions made a nice breeze on my face like Jeff said. That was with a hand flick.

akingf5371
11-23-2011, 09:16 PM
Well, I gave the pump a few turns when I was home, but didn't feel much of a breeze. I'll have to look into it more. Is there a local shop that rebuilds them?

On another note, I have come across another situation I'd like some input on. Earlier in this thread I mentioned that I'd like to go back to the original wagon wheel look, so through mud I found 5 FJ60 chrome wheels and like a few others have, decided to get them powder coated white. So, I throw all 5 of them in the truck and grab my bezel and head to a local powder coating place. (I've decided to avoid naming the business until the situation is resolved) I pick my color and they tell me it won't be any problem at all and away I go. About a week later I get a voicemail from them saying that ran into some problems during the baking process. I send my girlfriend over there with a camera to take a look. (I am currently working in ND) Well apparently something "bubbled" up between the two parts of the wheel and ruined the coating. I've attached pictures to better explain what happened. A little more detail. They didn't sand blast the chrome off, I was told that if the chrome was in good shape (4 out of the 5 were pristine, the 5th a little rusty) they would just "Scotch-Brite" them and the powder would stick fine. They mentioned this was standard procedure and not to worry. Well, I am not happy with the work and after calling them yesterday they ground off the bubbles and re-shot them but the same thing happened in the oven. So, I told the guy I'd call him back once I figured out what to do. He thinks that there is bondo in the crack, which I figured wasn't true at all. The only thing I can think to tell them is to at least blast the face of the wheel and the crack to really get whatever is in there out. Thoughts?

rover67
11-23-2011, 09:33 PM
Either they are putting a ton of powder on there or there is something in the seam between the wheel center and the rim.. Mine have much more of a gap there, something that would catch a a sheet of paper if you tried to stick it in there. What did it look like before you dropped them off? Was ther a fillet there?

akingf5371
11-23-2011, 10:13 PM
Marco-
Besides inspecting for bad chrome and rust I didn't look at the gap too much. I'm not sure what you mean by fillet..

DanS
11-23-2011, 10:47 PM
My chrome 60 wheels had a bead of RTV type stuff in that seam. And my set came from two different vehicles, so I doubt it was a PO thing. 99% sure my other set of chrome 60 wheels, and Dad's chrome 60 wheels also have a small bead of sealant of some sort in that seam as well.

I'm sure that's the problem you've got there. Scuffing with scotch brite and then coating won't cause that problem. You've got some serious outgassing going on under there, and it's because there's bondo/RTV in that seam. Best way to get it out would be to blast that seam real well. I had the chrome 60 wheels for Guzzler lightly blasted to give them a good tooth for the paint to grip. The light blasting (which definitely scuffed the chrome) didn't remove all of that sealant.

Here's a fillet:
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/0f/Fillet.png

Dan

akingf5371
11-24-2011, 11:05 PM
Thanks for the advice guys! I'll update when I find out something from them, more than likely Monday or Tuesday. I have another problem, since the PO used a holley carb and I'm going back to the Aisin I have to get the proper choke cable, right? I'm having a real hard time finding the correct one. SOR or cruiserparts don't have one. I found one from a '79 but SOR lists only '80-'83 would work properly. I have the knob and everything I just thing the PO modified/cut the cable to get it to work. What are my options? Thanks.

akingf5371
12-06-2011, 11:54 PM
Update: The original powder coating place gave it another shot and had the same results. They have washed their hands of it and I have taken it to another place. The new place (suggested by Marco) seems to be a lot more competent and already had a few suggestions on how to tackle the problem. Hope it goes well! Any advice on the choke cable?

Jacket
12-07-2011, 05:46 AM
Did you try Toyota? I was able to get a choke cable from Boulder Toyota a few months ago for my '76.

rover67
12-07-2011, 09:30 AM
T he choke cable for the later trucks is NLA. I tried.

I was planning on robbing the one from my 60 (no idea why it is still in there). It was suggested that the cable is the same, it is just the knob and cable length that differ?

Adam, hopefully the new place works for you.

akingf5371
01-09-2012, 09:37 PM
Well dear friends, it appears my 40 still has surprises to share. I (admittedly) bought this truck without knowing much about them and jumped on one that I thought avoided many of the costlier problems (rust primarily). Well, I still haven't gone over it with a fine tooth comb due to my intense work schedule keeping me out of town frequently, but tonight I got a quite unpleasant surprise. :(

Well, it looks like the floorpans were rusted through and the PO fiberglassed them and rhino lined it afterwards. There might be more surprises but the rear sill looks good, I guess the only other place would be under the windshield frame. Patching these are on the list now.

I don't think the guy I bought it from really knew about this problem; he told me it was a "rust free" cruiser. He seemed like an honest guy just not mechanically inclined at all, must have been the guy before him. Live and learn I guess! :weld:

Rezarf
01-09-2012, 09:47 PM
Just line the bottom and call it good. ;)

I wouldn't worry too much about it. A little rust keeps a 40 on the trail. Get it too pretty and it starts to only live in the garage. :hill:

Jacket
01-10-2012, 12:08 PM
The ones that claim "rust free" are the ones you should scrutinize - very few are truly rust free. I've come to appreciate the rust in my floor boards - in the summer months it improves air flow over the floor board making the exhaust heat less noticable....

rover67
01-10-2012, 12:38 PM
When I finally get around to swapping my tub maybe my old tub will have usable stuff you can have..

akingf5371
01-29-2012, 02:12 AM
Well thanks for everyone's help! This is what I have gotten done so far.
The resmogging is going well, I had the old header removed and a new down tube fabbed up and an exhaust manifold put on, Installed the original carb and thorttle linkage and air cleaner. Haven't gotten around to finishing installing the air injection system system and the rest of the smog system yet. I finally did get my tires back from the powder coating place and swapped out my 33x12.5s with 33x10.5 MTs. I had a difficult time finding a color of cygnus white. I ordered a 2oz tube from paintchip.com and compared it to some stock powders and chose the closest color. I've attached the picture of what I was looking at when I chose the color. I'm still on the fence after seeing the final product. It looks MUCH "beige-ier" than I was expecting. From what I have read on MUD it seems that is a common reaction. (The pictures are cell phone quality, I apologize)

DanS
01-29-2012, 09:20 AM
Those stock wheels look WAY better. Skinny tires are the best, too.

Dan

subzali
01-29-2012, 09:21 AM
Hey Adam, if your cap and bezel are factory painted they should be Cygnus as well. Did you check out cruisercorps for the cygnus paint they have? Not sure if they have powder...

rover67
01-29-2012, 09:25 AM
I love the way it looks, and the color at least matches what we determined Cygnus white looked like. We had an original bezel that looked to be factory painted and we matched the back of it where it had not faded. Interestingly enough the front of the bezel had faded to where it looks bone white like most of the hard top tops do. I think that original paint just faded a TON and it looks bone white on most rigs now

akingf5371
02-23-2012, 05:22 PM
Guys,
So, I have been bad about updating everyone, and I apologize. I have the original carb back on and I'm in the middle of getting the smog stuff back on. I was looking to get the seatbelt/e-brake light back working and was trying to track down the correct plug. I pulled the cluster and found tons of plugs! Anyone have any idea what these would go to? I found the one that goes to the light, so I have two I'm not sure on the other two. On the other side of the dash are two more that I don't know what to do with. Any help is always appreciated!

rover67
02-23-2012, 06:01 PM
my only suggestion (other than to tear mine apart) is to look at the wiring diagram and compare colors...

akingf5371
02-24-2012, 08:16 AM
I got a few answers and I'm inclined to believe them. The first ones are the A/C controls and the last ones are for the stock radio. I didn't know this, but apparently the wiring harness was the same on all the trucks and if you didn't have certain options they just left them disconnected.

rover67
02-24-2012, 08:43 AM
Since my ash tray is out, I looked at my harness this morning and have similar ones that are not connected....

MDH33
02-25-2012, 08:37 AM
The wheel/tire combo looks great. Mind if I ask where you had them powder coated and the cost? I have a set of steel wheels for my Hilux I'm looking to fix up.

akingf5371
02-27-2012, 10:30 PM
Yeah, no problem Martin. I used Powder coating Specialties in Golden. They did a great job! I want to say the total was less than $300 for 5 wheels and my bezel. They did some extra fill work and charged for that as well. I wouldn't go any other place!

akingf5371
03-02-2012, 08:33 PM
So, time for an update of the progress! Well, I managed to get a few things done when I was home, nothing too great on the re-smog though, I was waiting for a bolt from SOR and it didn't arrive until I was already back at work. Typical. I did manage to reinstall my e-brake and seat belt light! (Small victory I know) and replace some faded turn signal lenses. I really like the way it drives with the thinner tires! I got the choke cable working again through a Frankenstein type method of the old choke and the wire off a new FJ60 choke and some solder. It isn't pretty and I'm embarrassed to show you the results. (But it works!:o) Anyway, I'm still in the market for a new choke cable, so if you have one lying around for an 80+ 40 let me know!

I also found these center caps on ebay. I know they are for a 60, but I kind of like the way they look and I think they are useable as-is but I am thinking about taking them to get restored. Any thoughts? I also made a few problems while digging around behind my cluster the other day: The cluster lights don't work now, the turn signals and brights do, so I think I just blew a bulb, so those are now ordered. My license plate bulbs don't work either, so I bought some new ones and will look into this when I get home, anyone have some experience here?

Adam
:thumb:

MDH33
03-03-2012, 07:59 AM
Thanks for the info on the wheels. :thumb:

Regarding the cluster, I've heard you can easily short the whole thing out. Are the guages still working? or just the lights out? On my 40, the interior dash lights are on the same fuse as the running lights and turn signals. Did you check the fuse?

I've never seen those caps before. Interesting!

So, time for an update of the progress! Well, I managed to get a few things done when I was home, nothing too great on the re-smog though, I was waiting for a bolt from SOR and it didn't arrive until I was already back at work. Typical. I did manage to reinstall my e-brake and seat belt light! (Small victory I know) and replace some faded turn signal lenses. I really like the way it drives with the thinner tires! I got the choke cable working again through a Frankenstein type method of the old choke and the wire off a new FJ60 choke and some solder. It isn't pretty and I'm embarrassed to show you the results. (But it works!:o) Anyway, I'm still in the market for a new choke cable, so if you have one lying around for an 80+ 40 let me know!

I also found these center caps on ebay. I know they are for a 60, but I kind of like the way they look and I think they are useable as-is but I am thinking about taking them to get restored. Any thoughts? I also made a few problems while digging around behind my cluster the other day: The cluster lights don't work now, the turn signals and brights do, so I think I just blew a bulb, so those are now ordered. My license plate bulbs don't work either, so I bought some new ones and will look into this when I get home, anyone have some experience here?

Adam
:thumb:

akingf5371
03-03-2012, 05:57 PM
Thanks for the info on the wheels. :thumb:

Regarding the cluster, I've heard you can easily short the whole thing out. Are the guages still working? or just the lights out? On my 40, the interior dash lights are on the same fuse as the running lights and turn signals. Did you check the fuse?

I've never seen those caps before. Interesting!


I don't think I shorted it out, I always removed the negative battery cable before messing with it. The turn signals and everything else works! I didn't check the fuse but none of my interior lights work, something left over from the PO. The cluster lights did work earlier though.

akingf5371
03-08-2012, 09:35 PM
It's almost summer time! I picked these up off of Craig's List the other day! It is kind of hard to tell, but they are a pair of SOR's fiberglass half doors. I'm pretty stoked about them. I was going to buy aqualu half-doors but I didn't like the fact that they didn't look like OEM on the outside. Should I paint them myself or take them somewhere? Thanks!

farnhamstj
03-08-2012, 10:50 PM
Cool.

subzali
03-09-2012, 07:22 AM
Nice. You could try painting them yourself, but it may be easier to have a shop do it so they can get the color match dead on.

akingf5371
03-14-2012, 02:21 AM
Matt- Yeah, that sounds like the best plan. Hey, I know you need the pedal for the hand throttle, here is an ebay auction you might be interested in.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/toyota-landcruiser-fj-40-throttle-cable-and-pedal-assembly-/290683405518?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item43ae14c4ce

PabloCruise
03-14-2012, 05:27 PM
It's almost summer time! I picked these up off of Craig's List the other day! It is kind of hard to tell, but they are a pair of SOR's fiberglass half doors. I'm pretty stoked about them. I was going to buy aqualu half-doors but I didn't like the fact that they didn't look like OEM on the outside. Should I paint them myself or take them somewhere? Thanks!

Sweet Craigslist find!!!

subzali
03-14-2012, 06:18 PM
Matt- Yeah, that sounds like the best plan. Hey, I know you need the pedal for the hand throttle, here is an ebay auction you might be interested in.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/toyota-landcruiser-fj-40-throttle-cable-and-pedal-assembly-/290683405518?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item43ae14c4ce

I contacted that guy - it's actually not a hand throttle, it's a gas pedal and cable. I thought it was a little inexpensive for being a hand throttle and pedal...

akingf5371
03-14-2012, 06:40 PM
:doh: Sorry about that! I guess I should have fully read the ad! I'll see if the guy I bought the throttle from originally has the pedal assembly. I need a few things from him anyway.

subzali
03-14-2012, 06:47 PM
Hey Adam, he actually changed the ad a little after I asked him about it, originally it did sound like a hand throttle.

akingf5371
05-15-2012, 08:54 PM
So guys, I haven't posted in a while but things have been going well! I installed FJ40 OEM power steering and took the top off, also got the half doors and tailgate on. I went through the emissions install with the emissions manual and I think it is all hooked up correctly. So, here is my problem. I am testing the AI system and it won't come out of by-pass. It seems to me that the VSV that controls it won't ground and sent it to the cat. I have replaced the computer with two other ones to know avail. I tested the VSV and it switches when supplied power and ground. I have 12V at the plug and the comptuer's ground is grounded. Just doesn't want to switch. Any suggestions? Thanks!!

rover67
05-15-2012, 09:14 PM
if you disconnect the cat thermo sensor does it switch out of bypass?

akingf5371
05-15-2012, 10:13 PM
I thought about that, I just have it plugged in and it's sitting in the cab, but it stays in bypass.

rover67
05-15-2012, 10:22 PM
un plug it see what happens. it may be shorted?

akingf5371
05-15-2012, 10:38 PM
Hummm, not a bad idea... I want to say I tried that earlier, but it was a number of days ago.

60wag
05-16-2012, 05:19 AM
Are you sure the ABV is functional? It may be stuck in bypass mode.

rover67
05-16-2012, 09:34 AM
Are you sure the ABV is functional? It may be stuck in bypass mode.

yeah... does it switch when you manually change the vacuum signal?

akingf5371
05-16-2012, 09:47 AM
Well, when I remove the vacuum line that goes right into the ABV, the one that is connected to the VSV(2) it opens and goes into normal mode.

akingf5371
05-20-2012, 10:52 PM
Update! Well with some help I got it to pass emissions! I still can't get it out of bypass but with a little creative tubing work I just bypassed the VSV and injected it right into the exhaust! I'm not sure if it helped that much but I did pass! Got the plates on and everything! It has been a long road and I still need to figure out exactly what is wrong but thanks for the tons of help guys!!

DanS
05-20-2012, 11:00 PM
Awesome!

Street legal and everything! Nicely done.

Dan

rover67
05-21-2012, 10:31 AM
sweet, congrats :)

subzali
05-21-2012, 10:55 AM
That's cool Adam, congrats on the hard work paying off! :thumb:

What's next?

akingf5371
05-22-2012, 11:49 PM
Thanks guys! I have a few things on the plate for sure, right now I need to get it insured. Anyone have any suggestions? I have it with my other truck with progressive, but they only pay out KBB values. I was hoping to get it insured for $30k or so. What does everyone else use?

akingf5371
05-31-2012, 11:13 PM
I found a quote with Hagerty, I think I'll give them a shot, it was $850.00 a year for $30k. :eek:

akingf5371
06-12-2012, 07:21 PM
So, I'm selling my Currie axle that came on the 40. Here is a link to the Mud post. Let me know if anyone is interested! Thanks

http://forum.ih8mud.com/sale-parts/597815-co-late-model-fj40-currie-rear-axle.html

akingf5371
08-22-2012, 06:43 AM
Update: Things are working great now! I finally figured out my emissions problem, the seatbelt plug was plugged into the cat thermo temp sensor! Once that was swapped out everything was working properly!

I do have another issue though, whenever I shift into reverse it wants to grind, nothing horrendous but it does sound like I don't have the clutch pressed down. It goes into all the other gears easily enough, just reverse gives me problems. Would this be solved by replacing both the master and slave clutch cylinders?

subzali
08-22-2012, 07:58 AM
Nice! Glad you swapped out that Currie, I think you'll be happier in the long run :)

You may just need a clutch adjustment to make sure it's disengaging properly when pushed in. I have to make a nice clean shift to reverse in mine or else it'll try to grind too. A lot of it is just in the nature of the truck transmission!

SteveH
08-22-2012, 08:31 AM
Late comment on insurance choices - I use J.C. Taylor - much like Hagerty, but years ago, Hagerty wouldn't insure trucks, so I switched to Taylor. I pay $86/year for $10K coverage, I think, and Taylor is good about insuring 'work in progress' (non-restored) trucks. Was your $850/year for $30K with Progressive or Hagerty?

rover67
08-22-2012, 08:35 AM
Update: Things are working great now! I finally figured out my emissions problem, the seatbelt plug was plugged into the cat thermo temp sensor! Once that was swapped out everything was working properly!



no freakin way!!!!

That's awesome!!!!

How'd you figure it out?

akingf5371
08-22-2012, 10:13 AM
Late comment on insurance choices - I use J.C. Taylor - much like Hagerty, but years ago, Hagerty wouldn't insure trucks, so I switched to Taylor. I pay $86/year for $10K coverage, I think, and Taylor is good about insuring 'work in progress' (non-restored) trucks. Was your $850/year for $30K with Progressive or Hagerty?


It was Hagerty, and they actually wouldn't cover me due to me putting down "light off-road use" I actually ended up going with State Farm, they use actual value instead of Progressive's KBB method. I've gathered up all my receipts and am thinking of getting it appraised for my records.


no freakin way!!!!

That's awesome!!!!

How'd you figure it out?

Well, I'm not proud to say that after extensive MUD research and another blown weekend or two I was at my wits in and dropped it off at Rocky Mountain Cruisers, I was getting some other work done there that I didn't have time to do. They were initially as stumped as we were, but after some clever testing and comparing the wire colors to the schematic they figured it out!

Rzeppa
08-22-2012, 06:04 PM
I do have another issue though, whenever I shift into reverse it wants to grind, nothing horrendous but it does sound like I don't have the clutch pressed down. It goes into all the other gears easily enough, just reverse gives me problems. Would this be solved by replacing both the master and slave clutch cylinders?

No. Land Cruiser transmissions are not synchronized for the reverse gear. If the rest of the gears work properly, replacing clutch parts will be a waste of time and money. Just plop it into reverse patiently. You'll get used to it.

rover67
08-23-2012, 09:40 AM
Yeah Like Jeff says, they are grindy in reverse. you gotta wait a bit for the gear cluster to slow down.


I like doing this to check and see if things are working with no drag (pretty much every time I shift into reverse):


be sitting there with the truck in neutral and running.
push in the clutch and move the lever over to get it into reverse.
Don't shift it into reverese fully, but stop just as it feels like the gear teeth are hitting.. not hard, just softly.
Can you hear the gear slowing down or does it keep spinning at the same speed?
If it slows down slowly, you are all good. when it stops plop it into gear. Sometimes they won't line up and you have to move it back and forth a bit.
If it keeps spinning something is dragging a bit. We can diagnose that.

akingf5371
08-25-2012, 11:28 PM
Thanks for the advice Marco! I did you technique and since I've been going slower, I haven't had any problems! When are we swapping our your tub??

Jacket
08-26-2012, 04:07 PM
When are we swapping our your tub??

Good question! I think he's got some distractions right now....

:borg:

rover67
08-27-2012, 08:39 AM
I think this winter may be the magic time for the tub...

BreckBJ44
08-27-2012, 04:21 PM
Marco, Let me know when you do it... I have a spare set of hands and want to see the process on a newer cruiser...

akingf5371
08-30-2012, 05:29 AM
So, I want to add an aux fuse box under the hood to connect my radio, tach and future upgrades. I was looking at this from painless. Any suggestions? I'm a wiring newbie!

http://www.painlesswiring.com/webcatalog/largeview.php?SearchField=70207

subzali
08-30-2012, 08:12 AM
Looks pretty good, but also check out Blue Sea products:
http://bluesea.com/category/81/21

Rzeppa
08-30-2012, 08:33 PM
So, I want to add an aux fuse box under the hood to connect my radio, tach and future upgrades. I was looking at this from painless. Any suggestions? I'm a wiring newbie!

http://www.painlesswiring.com/webcatalog/largeview.php?SearchField=70207

Holy mackerel! They sure are proud of that little thing! I built an aux system for my 40 for about $20 worth of parts from Radio Shack. Pretty similar, just roll-your-own.

PabloCruise
08-31-2012, 04:54 PM
I do have another issue though, whenever I shift into reverse it wants to grind, nothing horrendous but it does sound like I don't have the clutch pressed down. It goes into all the other gears easily enough, just reverse gives me problems. Would this be solved by replacing both the master and slave clutch cylinders?

If your wheels are at full stop, drop the shifter into 2 or 4 and let those synchros stop the assembly, then hit reverse.

akingf5371
09-02-2012, 02:38 AM
Thanks for all the help guys! I'm going to post some pictures of what the 40 looks like these days! She's come a pretty good way and a lot of it is thanks to all the help I've gotten here! So a few questions, can someone school me on the split T-case? I've read that you should be able to keep your hubs locked and shift to 4Hi on the fly... while moving.. is that true? I always thought you had to stop, which is what I've always done.

FJBRADY
09-02-2012, 07:48 AM
You can shift into 4WD high on the fly. For peace of mind try shifting in and out of High while going at slow speeds and work up from there.


You must be stoped in order to shift into 4WD low unless you like to hear gears grinding violently.:eek:

SteveH
09-03-2012, 06:34 AM
By locking the hubs, you are spinning the entire front drive train - so when you engage 4WD, you're engaging a spinning gear with another spinning gear (both of which are going the same speed). With the hubs locked, it's shift on the fly (into high range).