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View Full Version : Blown Headgasket - 1993 FZJ80 at 225,000


Inukshuk
09-25-2011, 11:13 AM
I have a blown head gasket. 1993 FZJ80 at 225,000 miles. I decided to start this thread to:

1. Put the word out to the universe in case there is a good low mileage motor that wants to come to me
and
2. share and receive useful information.


I already have :robbie: on retainer and he has already done the tear down which revealed failure at cylinder #1 (closest to radiator), some damage to the block at the #1 fire ring, and loss of crosshatching in #1 cylinder. No warping to head.

Options range from buying a car to a partial rebuild (where we do the top end, mill the block and cylinder hone and new rings). I will not be doing a full rebuild, diesel or V8. Cost, reliability and time are factors.

I will do other things while we are in there like oil pan seals, coolant hoses, PS hoses and rebuild pump, vac lines, rear main (if block is coming out), motor mounts.

Another option is to find a good 93-97 80 and swap my parts to it and then part mine out.

Let it begin! :cheers:

Its at my house in NW Denver so if you want to see a 1FZ in bits, stop by.

1loudLX
09-25-2011, 11:30 AM
What about talking to Christo, since he's now putting those fancy V8s in 80s, there might be a motor for ya at the shop?

Snowrun
09-25-2011, 11:56 AM
Did you try checking out http://www.car-part.com ? You might be able to find a decent engine fairly cheap. I see 1fz-fe's popup on there every now and then for around 1200 bucks.

Old40Dog
09-25-2011, 12:10 PM
Daniel,

If you think you might want to pick up another 80 for the engine, I might have interest in much of the remaining vehicle for swapping to my 92. Might have a source for wrecked vehicles, but I haven't pursued it to date.

rover67
09-25-2011, 12:30 PM
Man, bummer that it needs a motor man...

Think about how many miles the body has on it and what kind of shape it is all in.. If you want to keep it, maybe looks for a good used motor? maybe from a swap like loud suggested.

sleeoffroad
09-25-2011, 12:51 PM
It ran until that point. Why don't you just put a gasket in it and drive it? If the head is not warped and the gasket will seal then you should be OK with just putting a gasket in.

Yes, there might be damage to the cylinder but is it that bad that it would not run again? I would not do a half rebuilt. That is money wasted. Either refurbish the whole truck, or send the minimum to get it operational again. Keep your eyes open for a 97 that is in good shape. When you get the new truck, transfer what you can and sell the 93.

The labor to swap a used engine is normally not worth the effort. You end up doing so many "while I am in there" things that you overspend. It would only make sense if you can locate a 50k mile engine. Anything over a 100, you might as well do the headgasket while out of the truck. Then you open the motor and find some stuff you don't like. Old truck, not worth much expect to you, you will be upside down in the truck before you know it. Take the emotions out of it and look at the condition of the rest of the truck.

Hulk
09-25-2011, 02:54 PM
Daniel, I bought my new engine from Bowser (http://forum.ih8mud.com/members/bowser.html) on ih8mud. He had several 1FZ engines for sale at the time. You might ping him to see what he has.

Inukshuk
09-25-2011, 03:04 PM
Thanks for all the comments and please keep them coming - Part of my posting is the hope that a inexpensive low mileage motor will materialize. Maybe one that someone just wants hauled away (hey, gotta dream!)


What about talking to Christo, since he's now putting those fancy V8s in 80s, there might be a motor for ya at the shop?

Definitely was part of the plan and below he pretty much said as I expected, but gave me a few ideas as well.

Did you try checking out http://www.car-part.com ? You might be able to find a decent engine fairly cheap. I see 1fz-fe's popup on there every now and then for around 1200 bucks.

I will.

Daniel,
If you think you might want to pick up another 80 for the engine, I might have interest in much of the remaining vehicle for swapping to my 92. Might have a source for wrecked vehicles, but I haven't pursued it to date.

Lets discuss. I may even get another 80 to build (using parts off mine) and then part mine out. A good idea about finding something we can go in on together.

Man, bummer that it needs a motor man..

yep, trying to look at it as an opportunity.

It ran until that point. Why don't you just put a gasket in it and drive it? If the head is not warped and the gasket will seal then you should be OK with just putting a gasket in.

Yes, there might be damage to the cylinder but is it that bad that it would not run again? I would not do a half rebuilt. That is money wasted. Either refurbish the whole truck, or send the minimum to get it operational again. Keep your eyes open for a 97 that is in good shape. When you get the new truck, transfer what you can and sell the 93.

The labor to swap a used engine is normally not worth the effort. You end up doing so many "while I am in there" things that you overspend. It would only make sense if you can locate a 50k mile engine. Anything over a 100, you might as well do the headgasket while out of the truck. Then you open the motor and find some stuff you don't like. Old truck, not worth much expect to you, you will be upside down in the truck before you know it. Take the emotions out of it and look at the condition of the rest of the truck.

Hi Christo. Yes, it ran just fine. When you found me this rig it had 110,000 on it. She took me to 225,000 with only minor work needed. It has been a great purchase. The rest is in good shape - a bit of tailgate rust, need to do some exhaust work and reattach the bumper ends. Cost is mostly my issue. I have no budget for this. I may choose to put a gasket and close it back up but apparently there is damage that will prevent sealing. Robbie and I are meeting Wednesday morning at my house to look at and discuss the options. He estimated I'd get 10-20,000 miles if I just went the gasket route - in part because #1 has lost its cross hatching. That's a couple years of driving for me and more if I get a daily driver car.

Overall, the idea of finding a newer rig has a lot of appeal. I may also find a car for my daily needs and then I'll have no time pressure to fix the 80.

ToddD
09-29-2011, 10:23 PM
I will not be doing a full rebuild, diesel or V8. Cost, reliability and time are factors.

I will do other things while we are in there like oil pan seals, coolant hoses, PS hoses and rebuild pump, vac lines, rear main (if block is coming out), motor mounts.

Another option is to find a good 93-97 80 and swap my parts to it and then part mine out.

Let it begin! :cheers:

Its at my house in NW Denver so if you want to see a 1FZ in bits, stop by.

What would the difference in costs be to rebuild the entire engine? I've never done it so I have no idea.. I'm just curious. I just did a HG and regret not pulling the motor and rebuilding the whole thing.
And I'd actually like to look at it, where in NW Denver are you? I'm in Lakewood (girlfriends house which has a big garage :thumb:) all the time and north Denver often (where I live, small garage)

Inukshuk
09-30-2011, 12:45 AM
What would the difference in costs be to rebuild the entire engine? I've never done it so I have no idea.. I'm just curious. I just did a HG and regret not pulling the motor and rebuilding the whole thing.
And I'd actually like to look at it, where in NW Denver are you? I'm in Lakewood (girlfriends house which has a big garage :thumb:) all the time and north Denver often (where I live, small garage)

Prices vary so I don't want to put a number out there, but could be like double. It depends on many variables. I should be around some this weekend. PM sent with number.

sleeoffroad
09-30-2011, 07:10 AM
Proper rebuild with new pistons etc etc is way more than double.

Beater
09-30-2011, 07:57 AM
I gotta side with christo here. either get a different truck, and swap over items, or build the motor correctly. Emotions are tough in these situations. a proper rebuild, from short block, could be 4k all said and done.

My thought is to find a cream puff 97, and start over. you have way too much invested in ancillary items that you could never get your investment back from, but I feel and think you would be better off with a better condition truck to rebuild from.

DaveInDenver
09-30-2011, 08:16 AM
Put me in the agree with Christo camp.

I did the whole engine thing, which in the case of a 19 year old Hilux almost doubled what I'd spent on it. So 'upside-down' is sorta relative when the $5K, 90K-old used truck you bought gives you as the second owner another decade and 97K of service. I didn't mind spending the money I'd saved just driving it, in other words.

However, knowing now what I wish I did 5 years ago, I would have done a minimalist rebuild.

These are service and utility trucks, they're not gonna see Concours d'Elegance or collector auctions. Keep 'em running and reliable, no more, no less. I would in your situation just clean it up and put in a HG. I might refresh the head, but that depends on the shape it's in (mine needed it regardless that the timing chain let loose). I would rebuild the short block only if the rings had stopped sealing altogether or it was warped.

ToddD
09-30-2011, 11:32 AM
I bought my cruiser for 1600 and have 2500 into it now. I'm glad I'm keeping a spreadsheet. I know how things add up, and fast. 4k seems like a high number but if that 4k takes the engine to another 200k miles is it worth it? I'd think so but that is a really tough spot. My rig is a beater and I was seriously considering it. I'm glad I just gasket slapped it and replaced heater hoses.

I would try doing the hg replacement and see how long it lasts. The reality is it could last 10 minutes or 10 years. Worth the gamble? I think so.

sleeoffroad
09-30-2011, 12:34 PM
$4k is a low lumber. Shorblock is $3200 +- from the dealer, add to that the rest, oil pump etc etc, head rebuild and you are looking at a drive in, drive out rebuild of $6-$7k easily. We are rebuilding the motors, have them on the shelf. Both long blocks and short blocks and heads. I am finalizing pricing on them, but it is not cheap.

ToddD
09-30-2011, 12:56 PM
$4k is a low lumber. Shorblock is $3200 +- from the dealer, add to that the rest, oil pump etc etc, head rebuild and you are looking at a drive in, drive out rebuild of $6-$7k easily. We are rebuilding the motors, have them on the shelf. Both long blocks and short blocks and heads. I am finalizing pricing on them, but it is not cheap.

When you have pricing figured out please let us know. :cheers:

Inukshuk
10-01-2011, 03:52 PM
Christo is spot on with the price range. Then one has to consider the other 17 year old parts. I have already replaced most things, except the radiator, and if I keep this rig then I do need to replace the radiator.

A creampuff 97 would be great. Anyone have one CHEEP?

BreckBJ44
10-01-2011, 04:54 PM
That was the advice I got from everyone when I was looking to just 'fix' my rig. When things are old, sometimes fixing one thing just pushes poop down the chain of weak links... Maybe the HG was just the weakest in a series of weak things... Only one way to find out.

nuclearlemon
10-01-2011, 04:56 PM
you're probably going to spend $7-8k on a new rig, which would be more than a complete rebuild (there's a thread on mud listing pricing) if you do it yourself. i have a spare engine that someday i may build. i'm expecting 4k.

if you plan on having an 80 long term and your rig is where you want to be and has a good frame/body, i'd
a) get a daily driver and when you have the money, complete rebuild on the motor
b) quicky head job and start stashing money for the rebuild.

if you don't see yourself in your 80, then buy another vehicle. keep in mind that you know what your rig needs, you won't know what another used rig needs. you may buy a $7k rig now and have to drop a grand when something goes wrong.

i don't have intentions of my 80 being my daily driver forever, the body and frame are rusted crap, but i plan on another 80 of the same vintage, so anything i do it can be transferred to my next rig.

nattybumppo
10-01-2011, 05:14 PM
Maybe I'm naive, or maybe a 1fz is just way more costly than 2f, but my rebuild cost about 2k. 1450 to Gunn for the bottom end (pistons were OK or that would have added about 350), 200 to Gunn for the top end, 250 for the full toyota gasket kit, 100 for shop supplies and such. Of course the labor was all me, Ricardo, and a wee bit of Randy, but it was really fun and came out great. Took about eight days over the course of a month.

Inukshuk
10-01-2011, 08:54 PM
keep in mind that you know what your rig needs, you won't know what another used rig needs. you may buy a $7k rig now and have to drop a grand when something goes wrong

Very good point.

Maybe I'm naive, or maybe a 1fz is just way more costly than 2f

It is. :bawl:

BreckBJ44
10-02-2011, 05:42 PM
I know of an unlocked 97 80 for possible sale with only 64k miles... I left the guy my number today and maybe he wants to sell it now... I did this with you in mind, Daniel, just to make things more difficult!

Inukshuk
10-02-2011, 06:35 PM
I know of an unlocked 97 80 for possible sale with only 64k miles... I left the guy my number today and maybe he wants to sell it now... I did this with you in mind, Daniel, just to make things more difficult!

:bowdown:

I spent all day organizing my sizable collection of VW Thing parts. I am putting the Thing and all the parts up for sale. http://www.flickr.com/photos/dmarkofsky/ If you think Cruiser parts are expensive.....

Inukshuk
10-02-2011, 07:14 PM
And an antique neon sign. From the hardware store where I worked in High School.

wesintl
10-02-2011, 08:13 PM
according to car-part yota yard hs a 96 engine with 86k on it for 2k. buy it and drop it in and be running this week

Inukshuk
10-03-2011, 11:10 AM
according to car-part yota yard hs a 96 engine with 86k on it for 2k. buy it and drop it in and be running this week

Sold it last week. I did not ask price. They have a "builder block" ("man, it smokes man") for $650.

Good suggestion though. I would have made an offer though, $2k is not worthwhile for me.

CardinalFJ60
10-03-2011, 12:19 PM
just saw this...

http://forum.ih8mud.com/sale-parts/479568-1997-1fz-fe-motor-tranny.html

did I just re-post??

Inukshuk
10-03-2011, 08:55 PM
just saw this...
http://forum.ih8mud.com/sale-parts/479568-1997-1fz-fe-motor-tranny.html

238,000 miles

Hmm, but not too likely because it probably needs a HG anyway, but will explore. THANKS! :cheers:

thelal
10-03-2011, 11:16 PM
Dan

I'm in a similar boat. I've a 97 I picked up at 200K and now 240K. Its been great up until recently and has been burning oil for quite some time. Losing some power under load and diagnosed with appears to be' leaky values' on #5 and #6
The truck did have a super-charger on it before and had a HG done at 90K (values checked but not red-one)

So I could continue as-is and take it 'easy' but not sure how long this will take me. I could get HG redone, values etc.. and should last 100-150K?
Was planning on doing a rebuild around 350K (or as needs be)
Truck body and rest in good shape and was planning on keeping for quiet some time (world 4x4 trip planned in a few yrs)

However don't have the molla to do a full rebuild now so considering just a HG/value 'fix' for 100-150K. Is that worth it?
Any other options

Inukshuk
10-18-2011, 10:10 PM
Tomorrow the flatbed arrives to take my 80 to Robbie for him to work his magic and I get back to working hard to pay for it all, knowing how lucky I am to have Robbie close by.

BreckBJ44
10-18-2011, 10:14 PM
I think that's the way to go...

I decided to do the same thing as while I could buy a replacement engine, nothing guarantees the condition. I now have a 3B block awaiting a rebuild. it took more cash to buy than a replacement, but I know what I have when it goes into the rig. I think you will feel better for the rebuild than adding another unknown to the equation with a replacement engine.

Roger L
10-25-2011, 09:39 AM
I have a blown head gasket. 1993 FZJ80 at 225,000 miles. I decided to start this thread to:



I've had our '97 FJ80 since near new. It started fouling #6 plug at about 180K. At 200K it hydro-locked on starting one day and a quick check showed most of the antifreeze had made it to the pan. So I had the same questions. The car ran fine in all other respects.

I took it to Christo's this summer where Joe opened it up and found a blown gasket on #6. There was some erosion on the head and block. The bore looked OK other than some staining. Just enough surface damage that what to do was debatable. Because the rest of the car was fine I decided to chance it. The machine shop cleaned it up as good as they could, then Joe put in a new gasket, lapped the valves, and added plus a few other things like hoses and water pump. It runs fine and definitely has more zip than it ever had. At 4K miles it is still holding and I'm glad we did it. This '80 is a keeper. I wonder how long that cylinder had been leaking? It might have been years.
Roger L.

Inukshuk
12-04-2011, 09:21 PM
Tomorrow the flatbed arrives to take my 80 to Robbie for him to work his magic and I get back to working hard to pay for it all, knowing how lucky I am to have Robbie close by.

Everything was delayed for Robbie's knee surgery. Robbie is getting around more but not ready to pull a block and dissemble it. :wrench: So, we are looking for a a couple of guys interested in pizza, beer and tearing into a block under Robbie's watchful eye and tutelage. Head is already off. We will remove more parts and pull the shortblock. Then we will disassemble the bottom end.

Date: Sunday, December 11
Time: TBD
Location: Central Boulder

2-3 people is maximum we can use at any time, as this will be a serious :wrench: day. This is an excellent opportunity to know your 1FZFE better, maybe planning your own rebuild some day? I will also be grateful for any assistance. If you are coming from Denver I'll also be happy to pick you up.

Photog welcome if you want to document a tear down.

Please PM me.

Thanks!

RicardoJM
12-05-2011, 10:44 AM
Sounds like something I would like to do. I have a committment at noon in Westminster, but could be there in the morning.

OilHammer
12-05-2011, 01:50 PM
Probably something I should do, not sure the wife will let me out of working on her's first though. CEL has been on for a year with that nagging EGR issue. I'm probably due for a preventative HG though...oil is disappearing down a valve guide, and I have some good pinging to boot.

60wag
12-05-2011, 03:33 PM
I'm in for the tear down. I love taking things apart that I don't have to put back together :)

corsair23
12-05-2011, 05:49 PM
I so wish I could come! Would be interesting to watch and help...Alas, I'll be down in the Springs that day :(

Inukshuk
12-05-2011, 11:11 PM
I will get with Robbie tomorrow and look into times.


Sounds like something I would like to do. I have a committment at noon in Westminster, but could be there in the morning.

Sweet. With your skills it might be completed by noon!

Probably something I should do, not sure the wife will let me out of working on her's first though. CEL has been on for a year with that nagging EGR issue. I'm probably due for a preventative HG though...oil is disappearing down a valve guide, and I have some good pinging to boot.

What year is yours? You know the 93 computer has a problem with that. I have a 94 or 95 computer now.

So you are a maybe?

I'm in for the tear down. I love taking things apart that I don't have to put back together :)

Sweet! And yes, there is a lot of freedom in doing just the tear down and with the master.

I so wish I could come! Would be interesting to watch and help...Alas, I'll be down in the Springs that day :(

I'll definitely keep you on the shortlist for another day

Rock Dog
12-05-2011, 11:42 PM
if you still need help, i may be available next sunday for part of a day of greasy wrenching... let me know.

RicardoJM
12-06-2011, 07:50 AM
Sweet. With your skills it might be completed by noon!


You may be overrating my skills:D.

On a more serious note, will equipment/tools be available? That is to say will we be using air tools/hoists or wrenches/block & tackle. Oh - and is the work area a parking lot, garage or heated shop?

OilHammer
12-06-2011, 08:16 AM
It's a 97, and yes, I'm a maybe. A lot will depend on the GWWP project, as the masons are looking to start up again on Saturday if it heats up enough. If they do that, then I need to be around the house to supervise. Depending on when you are starting and how long you are going, I may be able to do a partial.

Inukshuk
12-06-2011, 12:21 PM
if you still need help, i may be available next sunday for part of a day of greasy wrenching... let me know.

I'll know later today and find a way to make this work!

You may be overrating my skills:D.

On a more serious note, will equipment/tools be available? That is to say will we be using air tools/hoists or wrenches/block & tackle. Oh - and is the work area a parking lot, garage or heated shop?

We will be inside a heated shop. As for tools, I will find out for certain but my expectation is that all needed tools will be available, and yet I will plan to bring my own because with few hands there may be a call for more than one tool at any time, like two people can be using a ratchet.

I am truly grateful that this sounds as fun to you guys as it does to me, and it will be a huge help to me to get this going.

Uncle Ben
12-06-2011, 12:44 PM
I am so sorry and I'm not trying to stir up anything. I don't understand why a wrenching party is needed. It sounds like you have a heated shop and a well respected technician supervising so why complicate things by adding more hands and distraction? Just pull on the coveralls and get busy! :confused:

Inukshuk
12-06-2011, 09:51 PM
I am so sorry and I'm not trying to stir up anything. I don't understand why a wrenching party is needed. It sounds like you have a heated shop and a well respected technician supervising so why complicate things by adding more hands and distraction? Just pull on the coveralls and get busy! :confused:

Ok, thanks. Its accurate that we don't want too many hands. I thought a cool way to have fun and a few guys get to take a part an engine they don't have to put back together.

Inukshuk
12-06-2011, 09:52 PM
Project postponed. A non movable scheduling conflict arose today. I will have a new date shortly. Sorry and I hope the new date still works.

OilHammer
12-14-2011, 10:21 AM
This has really gotten me to start thinking about my car situation. The 450 is pretty much our only "reliable" transportation at this point and I have a bunch of maint items that need to be done. PHH, valve cover gasket, sticky EGR, valve stem seals, some sqeaky pulleys, new PCV, etc. It seems like with the time I have off over the holidays, it might be prudent to just tackle a headgasket as preventative (168k), and handle these other issues at the same time. My shop space sucks at the moment for sure, and I'm not in a $ place where I can just drop it off and have a shop do it all. Mechanically, nothing scares me, so debating to just jump in and do this unless someone talks me down from the ledge. I do need a better shop space tho. So depending on when you reschedule, I wonder if we can just do two at the same time?

FJBRADY
12-14-2011, 10:25 AM
This has really gotten me to start thinking about my car situation. The 450 is pretty much our only "reliable" transportation at this point and I have a bunch of maint items that need to be done. PHH, valve cover gasket, sticky EGR, valve stem seals, some sqeaky pulleys, new PCV, etc. It seems like with the time I have off over the holidays, it might be prudent to just tackle a headgasket as preventative (168k), and handle these other issues at the same time. My shop space sucks at the moment for sure, and I'm not in a $ place where I can just drop it off and have a shop do it all. Mechanically, nothing scares me, so debating to just jump in and do this unless someone talks me down from the ledge. I do need a better shop space tho.

I know someone who has killer, heated shop space and takes payment of bud light. :thumb:

Behind that rough exterior he's a really good guy.....just very outspoken, that's all. :thumb:

Inukshuk
12-14-2011, 11:34 AM
I know someone who has killer, heated shop space and takes payment of bud light. :thumb:

Behind that rough exterior he's a really good guy.....just very outspoken, that's all. :thumb:

Hmmm, where is the shop?

OilHammer
12-14-2011, 12:54 PM
Sorry inuk, hijack over. I'm going to delay mine, but still interested in helping you with yours when Robbie is available again.

Inukshuk
12-14-2011, 03:25 PM
Sorry inuk, hijack over. I'm going to delay mine, but still interested in helping you with yours when Robbie is available again.

Hijack away - all good ideas. Like a barn raising!

Inukshuk
12-18-2011, 06:40 PM
Mechanically, nothing scares me, so debating to just jump in and do this unless someone talks me down from the ledge. I do need a better shop space tho. So depending on when you reschedule, I wonder if we can just do two at the same time?

Robbie and I tore down my new-used motor this afternoon. I will post pics later. At 170k the HG was in the initial stages of failure. But the bottom end was in good shape.

Tear down went blindingly fast by Robbie - I was just the helper. If I was doing this all by myself it would have taken me 2-3x longer. Even just the one drive plate bolt where the head stripped was out in short order by Robbie and the grinder - and once the bolt head was off, the rest was finger loose, that could have cost me an hour. I observed several professional grade techniques I had not seen before.

rockrod
12-18-2011, 08:29 PM
Robbie and I tore down my new-used motor this afternoon. I will post pics later. At 170k the HG was in the initial stages of failure. But the bottom end was in good shape.

Tear down went blindingly fast by Robbie - I was just the helper. If I was doing this all by myself it would have taken me 2-3x longer. Even just the one drive plate bolt where the head stripped was out in short order by Robbie and the grinder - and once the bolt head was off, the rest was finger loose, that could have cost me an hour. I observed several professional grade techniques I had not seen before.

I am glad the motor seems to be in good shape. I am also glad you are doing the HG. better to do it now while it's out and easy to get to.:)

curious to see some pics too.

Inukshuk
12-18-2011, 10:13 PM
These are all head gasket seeps, Its not supposed to look like that.

Inukshuk
12-18-2011, 10:16 PM
The head itself had never been opened and was fine except for carbon and dino oil gunk.

Where Robbie is pointing is a failure starting at #6, also shown in photo after.

#1 was also starting to go.

But, the cylinder walls were fine.

OilHammer
12-19-2011, 08:02 AM
That's an odd finger to point with.... :)

rover67
12-19-2011, 08:51 AM
Looks like they kept the oil changed in it. Looks nice.

Caribou Sandstorm
12-19-2011, 09:07 AM
It is good to see the big guy on his feet! Even if he is giving us his Iggy Salute...

Inukshuk
12-19-2011, 10:40 PM
That's an odd finger to point with.... :)

whoops!

powderpig
12-20-2011, 08:06 PM
Not suppose to be on both feet, I am on one mostly, with a outrigger with the other. It does take it toll on the right leg, can only do it for a couple of hours before I hurt one way or the other. Did not even think which finger I was using in the photo.

Inukshuk
01-20-2012, 11:04 PM
Head is at machine shop.
Parts ordered.
Injectors at WitchHunter

Things are moving........

Inukshuk
01-24-2012, 02:34 PM
I rebuilt the power steering pump too. Missed one o-ring at the very center so it came apart again today - doh. Overall a very easy rebuild though. Just read the FAQ's and go slow. http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/201920-power-steering-pump-hose-replacement-faq-3.html

Next destination: Boulder. :robbie:

(in this photo he was not done chaining it down)

Inukshuk
01-26-2012, 11:56 PM
Got the cleaned injectors back today.
These had 170,000 on them.

subzali
01-27-2012, 07:25 AM
Looks like your injectors were in pretty good shape before witchhunter...

rover67
01-27-2012, 09:49 AM
That's what almost every set I've sent to them went to and came back looking like. Kinda funny. Worth it for the piece of mind though.

OilHammer
01-27-2012, 10:48 AM
What are they actually doing to them? Just pressure/solvent cleaning, or do they actually take them apart and replace components? With the diesels, you can replace the injector tips fairly economically, but that shouldn't happen before gobs of miles. Seems like the gasoline injectors would actually run even cleaner than the diesel since you are essentially pumping filtered solvent through them all the time.

Uncle Ben
01-27-2012, 11:07 AM
What are they actually doing to them? Just pressure/solvent cleaning, or do they actually take them apart and replace components? With the diesels, you can replace the injector tips fairly economically, but that shouldn't happen before gobs of miles. Seems like the gasoline injectors would actually run even cleaner than the diesel since you are essentially pumping filtered solvent through them all the time.

They test as recieved then the ultrasonicly solvent clean them then they retest. Same as the other mail in injector guys. I swear that report card looks the same as several I have got back. Must be a form letter! :lmao::lmao: Last set I got back had one that leaked down overnight. Seems the leakdown test should have spotted that. Not dissing Witchhunter at all....great company, fast and rather inexpensive.

Inukshuk
01-27-2012, 04:58 PM
What are they actually doing to them? Just pressure/solvent cleaning, or do they actually take them apart and replace components?

They clean as UB said and also replace the o-ring, seal, tip cover and filter screen.

More progress. This is my motor. I had to be in Boulder this AM and stopped by to see Robbie for a bit.

rover67
01-27-2012, 05:06 PM
schwing!!!!

nakman
01-27-2012, 11:00 PM
Yeah man, looking good.. the end is near! it would be so easy to bolt on that 3-groove pulley for the OBA right now.. :)

Inukshuk
01-28-2012, 06:27 AM
Yeah man, looking good.. the end is near! it would be so easy to bolt on that 3-groove pulley for the OBA right now.. :)

:thumb:

rockrod
01-28-2012, 10:16 AM
Nice!

Inukshuk
01-30-2012, 09:19 PM
progress. These pics are all phone shots. The camera is still up with the rig at the shop.

Saturday we got the shortblock out and then I got in there and replaced the hoses by the firewall, the power steering lines and cleaned the frame by the steering gear to check for cracks (none). Cleaned a lot more parts and bought silicone vacuum line at Carquest since the uber-performance stuff I ordered from a local Denver tuner shop was definitely not 3.5 mm. Also got the cats and header pipes off (not fun) to swap my 226,000 cats for the 170,000 mile ones and replace gaskets and fasteners.

Sunday we set the new motor. Put lots together. The used radiator I purchased turned out to be missing the small top pipe used to keep the intake from icing so after installing it 3x (Robbie warned me not to trap a tranny cooler line under it but I did anyway) I had to pull it out. The very cool gentleman who sold it to me was also unaware that the pipe was missing and has promised a full refund. Today I refinanced my house and ordered a OEM radiator (too many unknowns with aftermarket and could not get a Koyo for a week).

Tim - see that shiny pulley....

rockrod
01-30-2012, 10:01 PM
Are you sticking with the original trans or swapping it out for my old one?

Looks like you will be up and running before me.

Inukshuk
01-30-2012, 10:22 PM
Are you sticking with the original trans or swapping it out for my old one? Looks like you will be up and running before me.

I'm sticking with mine. We decided that they hold up really well and the work of swapping vs. the benefit vs. the marketability of a 226k tranny vs. 170k fell in favor of leaving mine in.

How is yours going?

Jacket
01-31-2012, 09:14 AM
Good thing you remembered to pull that purple bottle. ;)

Almost there! So are you including a York this time 'round?

MDH33
01-31-2012, 10:33 AM
Looking like good progress. :wrench: :thumb:

Good talking with you yesterday too, Daniel.

Inukshuk
01-31-2012, 10:24 PM
Good thing you remembered to pull that purple bottle. ;)

Almost there! So are you including a York this time 'round?

And the bag of chips ahoy. Not sure of compressor type. Also, I'll have to make a bracket from scratch.

Looking like good progress. :wrench: :thumb:
Good talking with you yesterday too, Daniel.

:thumb:

Inukshuk
01-31-2012, 10:26 PM
Does your mechanic send you pictures of your rig?

So clean you could eat off it! And after I play with the heat shield snad reinstall my cooker I will.

subzali
02-01-2012, 07:41 AM
That's sweet Daniel!

RicardoJM
02-01-2012, 07:46 AM
That is looking reall nice Daniel. Should be good to go for a long time now.:D

Inukshuk
02-02-2012, 07:33 AM
That's sweet Daniel!

Thanks, and great Land use report and guest last night.

That is looking real nice Daniel. Should be good to go for a long time now.:D

Thanks.

I'm going to give her a good cleaning, check the fluids obsessively for a few weeks and I have already started a write up of some thoughts on the job and process overall. Number one being all the people involved.

:bowdown: :robbie:

:risingsun

CDan - Dan Bussey - American Toyota
Corey - aka Rockrod and the donor engine.
Two friends who lent me cars for **five** months.
Ace Towing - (Larry, 720-338-5230) and Kelley Eyen State Farm Insurance that paid for it.


Now off to work cause I'm still paying for it.... :hill:

thelal
04-11-2012, 10:27 PM
Dan

I'm in a similar boat. I've a 97 I picked up at 200K and now 240K. ...
Losing some power under load and diagnosed with appears to be' leaky values' on #5 and #6
...
So I could continue as-is and take it 'easy' but not sure how long this will take me. I could get HG redone, values etc.. and should last 100-150K?
...
However don't have the molla to do a full rebuild now so considering just a HG/value 'fix' for 100-150K. Is that worth it?
Any other options

So I ended up taking that engine out and getting another one switched in (30K on a Robbie special rebuild with some xtra oomph 'bits'). Took 2-3 days but it was night-n-day on first drive out of the shop - lots of pep and need to be careful with that R foot.
Very pleased with results.

Now need to refix my fan clutch (just drained/refilled with 10K oil but no difference) as still heating up after new radiator.

Inukshuk
04-11-2012, 11:13 PM
So I ended up taking that engine out and getting another one switched in (30K on a Robbie special rebuild with some xtra oomph 'bits'). Took 2-3 days but it was night-n-day on first drive out of the shop - lots of pep and need to be careful with that R foot.
Very pleased with results.

Now need to refix my fan clutch (just drained/refilled with 10K oil but no difference) as still heating up after new radiator.

:thumb: But you are running hot?

I'm doing great, about 3,000 miles, one oil change, zero leaks or consumption, and one speeding ticket. very smooth all the way to redline. Have not yet passed emissions but the cats and O2 sensors came off the donor rig and the age was unknown - though they had 170,000 miles. New O2 sensors should be here tomorrow or Friday.

Inukshuk
04-14-2012, 02:33 AM
my old downpipes are back on with new O2 sensors. The O2 sensors that were there from the donor rig looked fairly new. The nuts were not all rusted up.

Key to this job were that the hardware was all relatively new and 24" of socket extensions and a wobbly one at the end (they rock), also ratcheting box end wrenches. Shout out to Edgewater Ace Hardware that sold me two loose ones they had in back for $10.

Last week I tested catalytic converter temperatures and got:
Driver - 430 in, 530 out
Passenger - 410 in, 510 out

Monday we try emissions again and if that fails, new cats.

Inukshuk
04-16-2012, 08:46 PM
We Passed Emissions!!

__________Test 1____Test 2_______Test 3
HC_______0.346______0.1889______0.3118
CO_______3.984______4.000_______9.649
CO2______867.6______706.0_______766.5
Nox______9.354______9.256_______3.024

Test 1: no special prep, short wait, idled at 2,000RPM
Test 2: tank premium, two cans red HEET, tires at 50PSI, well warmed up, short wait, idled at 2,000RPM
Test 3: NEW O2 Sensors, tank premium, tires at 50PSI, no HEET, 15 minute wait, idled at 3,000RPM

Tires were 285/75R16 Nitto Terra Graplers.

So, HEET brings down HC and CO2, seems to not affect CO or Nox, and bad O2 sensors affect NOx. As noted before, catalytic converters measured a 100 degree temperature rise so between that and this test they seem to be working fine.

Since I could not find it posted anywhere (here or MUD) ill searchably write bad O2 sensors cause high NOx readings. Lower NOx by getting new O2 sensors. I used Toyota OEM oxygen sensors.

Than you again Robbie for suggesting I test after replacing the O2 sensors and before changing catalytic converters. Heated 4-wire O2 Sensors as we have in our cruisers should have a 60,000 - 100,000 mile life.

thelal
04-16-2012, 09:46 PM
:thumb: But you are running hot?
.. one speeding ticket..
Glad alls running well and you got your emissions.
Ha! on the speeding ticket - hard to keep the 'new' truck on even keel

On 3rd drain/refill on the fan clutch - didn't have enough in last 2 times (as each time if takes some more). Either the 10K fluid is wrong type or fan clutch is hosed as not making any difference once I start climbing hills..

rockrod
04-18-2012, 07:59 PM
We Passed Emissions!!

__________Test 1____Test 2_______Test 3
HC_______0.346______0.1889______0.3118
CO_______3.984______4.000_______9.649
CO2______867.6______706.0_______766.5
Nox______9.354______9.256_______3.024

Test 1: no special prep, short wait, idled at 2,000RPM
Test 2: tank premium, two cans red HEET, tires at 50PSI, well warmed up, short wait, idled at 2,000RPM
Test 3: NEW O2 Sensors, tank premium, tires at 50PSI, no HEET, 15 minute wait, idled at 3,000RPM

Tires were 285/75R16 Nitto Terra Graplers.

So, HEET brings down HC and CO2, seems to not affect CO or Nox, and bad O2 sensors affect NOx. As noted before, catalytic converters measured a 100 degree temperature rise so between that and this test they seem to be working fine.

Since I could not find it posted anywhere (here or MUD) ill searchably write bad O2 sensors cause high NOx readings. Lower NOx by getting new O2 sensors. I used Toyota OEM oxygen sensors.

Than you again Robbie for suggesting I test after replacing the O2 sensors and before changing catalytic converters. Heated 4-wire O2 Sensors as we have in our cruisers should have a 60,000 - 100,000 mile life.

cool stuff.
I wonder if the previous owners had the cats replaced at some point.

I will post my numbers with the V8 soon. I am not to far from having it ready for the inspector to 'stamp it' with their approval.

Inukshuk
04-18-2012, 08:57 PM
cool stuff. I wonder if the previous owners had the cats replaced at some point.

Hard to say, we both know how bad the bolts were.

What emissions do you have to qualify for?

powderpig
04-19-2012, 05:28 AM
My guess is that they were the original cats.

thelal
05-04-2012, 01:40 PM
I think I drained/refilled the fan clutch about 4+ times, with 10K and then 15K CST in the end. What worked in the end was putting in a sealant gasket (on top of existing O-ring) as it 'appeared' to be leaking (as in each time I came back to check it needed more fluid, but positive that each time I had filled to the brim (including letting it sit overnight for the fluid to settle))

When it was 'failing' the (when engine cold and spinning by hand) resistance would change. 1st spin would be stiff, next a little less, next one easier etc.. or I would have intermittent "stiffness" as I spun.

Now resistance is the same and temps no more than 180-185f on step climb (3-4K) up Rt 7 towards Allenspark. Prev. was easy to get it up to 220f (all temps measured via UltraScan guage)

..
On 3rd drain/refill on the fan clutch - didn't have enough in last 2 times (as each time if takes some more). Either the 10K fluid is wrong type or fan clutch is hosed as not making any difference once I start climbing hills..

Beater
05-12-2012, 05:48 PM
so why not a direct drive fan conversion???

Inukshuk
10-10-2012, 10:47 AM
Update: Running strong. Strange to not have to add oil.

#1 -- I chased down a slow coolant leak. It was from one of the short straight firewall heater hoses. Turned the hose clamp and it went away. But it was a bugger to find because it only leaked a few dozen drops between the time some pressure built in the system and then stopped when it got to operating temp. The drip came out by the PHH, so I thought it might be that, but the super PHH kit silicone hose many years old now) is still like new.

Huge props to Robbie who a month ago said I should look for a hose and who two days ago, when I finally for the first time saw the drip as I was filling tires and the truck was warming up (maybe the cold weather helped) and then saw the drip stop when it got hot but could not see the source, told me to go get a pressure tester (thank you Advance auto free loaner program)

#2 -- The triple fan pulley I installed with prospect of maybe adding on board air hits the back of the AC belt, making noise and causing wear. I'll be taking it off for now.

Inukshuk
01-18-2013, 10:47 PM
13,000 miles later (now at 239,600) Still running strong. Tomorrow I'll be changing the oil and taking a sample to send for testing.

Still loosing ever so little coolant. Nothing new by pressure test two weeks ago. Threw on a new parts store radiator cap (had a new OEM one with my new radiator at the rebuild). Nothing noticeable. Did the dye kit. I see glow on the overflow bottle cap! Since I added the dye through the radiator cap, I don't think it was from when I added the dye, but I cleaned it off and will check tomorrow again. May be time for a new overflow bottle cap. Nice. This was an original part. (If anyone ever wants to borrow the light just let me know)

I have recently developed a slight PS line leak. Not sure which one yet. I put on gates hoses. They were new, but I supplied them, so nothing to do with Robbie's work.

I'm looking for a fan pulley to remove the triple pulley that still slightly hits the AC belt and restore to OEM. I'll have that triple pulley for sale.